New Zealand
Malaspina Reach

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32 travelers at this place

  • Day14

    Doubtful Sound, World Heritage Site

    February 15, 2019 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    “This is fine country for the waterproof explorer” — Richard Henry, 1896

    This was an amazing day! We are so glad it rained today because Doubtful Sound, actually a fjord (glacially carved and flooded by the sea -- vs river carved), is full of waterfalls when it rains. Only two waterfalls are present when it's not raining. Our boat guide said the temporary waterfalls will dry up within 30 minutes of the rain stopping.

    It took some time and logistics getting here from Queenstown -- we boarded a comfy coach bus for a 2 hour trip to Lake Manapouri, then a catamaran took us across the lake for an hour, then another bus drove us an hour to the dock at Doubtful Sound. All of the views along the way made the various legs of the trip worthwhile, and the 3 hours spent cruising down the sound to the sea and back were spectacular.

    We saw a colony of fur seals from afar, but did not see the pod of bottlenose dolphins that come into the sound, nor did we get to see the penguins, who have moved on during this season.

    A serious feat of engineering took place in the 1960s (idea conceived as early as 1904) -- a hydroelectric plant was built under Lake Manapouri. The plant supplies electricity to all of the south part of the South Island, but mostly to an aluminum smelting plant. Public outcry over the original plans to raise the lake level by 100 feet caused a revision of the plans. Today, the lake level is maintained with a 'habitable zone,' rising or lowering within normal historical limits to protect the shoreline life.
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  • Day240

    Kajaken im Doubtful Sound

    April 7, 2018 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Doubtful Sound, Malborough Sound, Milford Sound ... "Was ist eigentzlich dieser Sound und hat es etwas mit Musik zu tun?" Es ist das Zusammenspiel von Fjord (Meeresarm) und sehr hohen Bergen ... den Gesang muss man bei kajaken selbst liefern :-)

    Es war einer der wundervollsten Ausflüge: Stille, Einsamkeit, der Natur super nah!
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  • Day47

    Croisière doubtful sound

    February 25 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Le milford, ainsi que ses abords, étant totalement fermés, nous optons pour faire au moins la croisière dans les Doubtful. Départ très matinal, nous sommes sur le seul bateau naviguant en matinée.
    Entre-temps le milford a réouvert mais uniquement aux bus touristiques et vu les convois, les lieux s'annoncent blindés..
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  • Day133

    Doubtful Sound

    January 7, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Um sieben Uhr morgens wurde ich im YHA abgeholt und nach Manapouri gefahren. Etwa eine Stunde lang fuhren wir über den Lake Manapouri, bevor es im Bus Richtung Doubtful Sound weiterging. Dort angekommen stiegen wir wieder auf ein Schiff um und fuhren bis auf die Tasmansee hinaus. Der Nebel und der leichte Regen liess die steilen Berge rundherum mysteriös, fast schon traumhaft wirken. Für ein paar Minuten stellte der Kapitän der Motor ab und alle - ausser den Seelöwen - wurden gebeten still zu sein. Inmitten von waldbewachsenen Felsen schaukelte unser "kleines" Boot sanft hin und her. Wasserfälle rauschten, eine Möwe kreischte und die Seelöwen schienen eine wichtige Debatte zu haben.Read more

  • Day192

    Doubtful Sound: Fjorde und Mee(h)r

    September 20, 2018 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    Da andere Reisende und auch Leanne und Richard von einer Reise zum Doubtful Sound geradezu schwärmten und wir gerade noch Glück hatten die günstigeren Winterpreise zu erhaschen, gönnten wir uns einen Overnight Cruise im Fjordland. Die Sonne ☀️schien und so ging es am Freitag morgen zunächst über den Manapuri Lake, den schönsten See 💧des Landes, dann über den Wilmot Pass, die teuerste Straße 🛣des Landes (2NZD/cm auf 22km) und dann in den Doubtful Sound, den größten Fjord 🏞 des Landes. Nachdem wir unsere Viererkabine eingecheckt und den Brgrüssungstee ☕️und -muffin 🥧vertilgt hatten, befanden wir uns schon inmitten des Fjordes und staunten über die Landschaft, Flora und Fauna. In einem der Seitenarme ankerten wir und machten uns in Kayaks🚣🏻‍♀️🚣🏼‍♂️ auf das Gewässer zu erkunden. Einige verrückte sprangen danach noch ins 8 Grad kalte Wasser 💦, doch wir bevorzugten Tee mit grandioser Aussicht. Wir fuhren bis zum Ende des Fjords und da das Meer 🌊 relativ ruhig war (relativ, weil uns doch ein bisschen schlecht wurde), fuhren wir hinaus aufs Tasmanische Meer wo einst Thomas Cook anlegte, um Neuseeland 🛳 zu erkunden. Auf einem Felsen nahe der Küste hatten es sich einige Fur Seals (eine Art ‚FellRobben‘) bequem gemacht, die sich von uns auch nicht stören ließen. Im Sonnenuntergang 🌅 ging es zurück in den Fjord, um über Nacht in einem ruhigen Arm zu Ankern. Das Abendessen war ein riesiges Dinner Buffet 🥗🍠🥦🥘🍰🍮, das keine Wünsche offen ließ. Wir teilten uns den Tisch mit einem kanadischen Paar und aßen und plauderten bis wir beinahe platzten. Nach dem Essen gab es noch einen Vortrag zur Geschichte und Flora 🌺🌳🌼und Fauna 🐬🐧🐠🦆des Fjordlandes und danach fielen wir todmüde ins Bett.
    Um 6.30 Uhr am nächsten Morgen wurde der Anker ⚓️ gelichtet und der Motor angeschmissen und nach und nach versammelten sich alle am riesigen Frühstücksbüffet 🥖🍳🍰🥓🍇. Das Boot stoppte plötzlich und der Kapitän ließ verlauten, dass es auf einer der vielen kleinen Inseln zwei der Gelbaugenpinguine zu sehen gäbe. Wir liefen nach draußen und konnten die seltenen Tiere 🐧🐧beobachten bevor sie wieder im Gebüsch verschwanden. Unsere Tour führte weiter durch einen Arm Richtung Norden, wo wir schneebedeckte Berge 🏔 und einen riesigen, durch ein Erdbeben entstandenen Riss im Gestein sehen konnten. Der Motor stoppte und rings um uns herum konnten wir Wasserfälle 💦 und verschiedenste Vogelarten 🐦🐤🐦hören.
    Danach machten wir uns auf den Rückweg und konnten gar nicht glauben, dass unser schöner Ausflug schon vorbei war.
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  • Day24

    Doubtful Sound

    March 23, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today it was time for the Doubtful Sound Wilderness Cruise.
    The boat left at 8am and it took us around 40 mins to cross Lake Manapouri. Once we got to the wharf on the other side a bus brought us to Deep Cove via Wilmot Pass (that took about 30 mins). Once there, we went onto the boat for the tour of the Sound.

    It is a vast and unspoilt Wilderness and I was feeling grateful for having chosen to see this - more remote - Sound instead of the more touristy Milford Sound.

    At some point during the cruise the skipper shut down the motor and generators and asked everyone to be still for about 10 mins so that everyone can enjoy the absolute silence. It was quite something to experience! ⛴💖
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  • Day22

    To Doubtful Sound

    November 12, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Thursday 10th November
    We checked out of Peppers Beacon for one night as we are going on an overnight cruise along Doubtful Sound in a schooner. We are only allowed one small bag, as usual I took far too much and consequently my bag was very heavy - I do need to work on my travelling light method. The coach picked us up from outside the hotel, and from there it was a 3½ hour drive to the ferry which was to take us across Lake Manapouri. Another coach was waiting for us as we docked and drove us a further hour to the head of Doubtful Sound where we boarded our schooner. We had our own cabins on the upper deck which were surprisingly spacious with en-suite facilities. A lot of others were sharing quad cabins which sounded rather basic bunk bed facilities separated by curtains in the lower deck of the boat. The boat dropped anchor about 45minutes after we had set sail; there were various water based activities on offer. Peter decided to join the kayaking activity, about 24 in total went out. It looked very tiring as they kayaked around the Fiord. Janet and I preferred to join one of the smaller boats that went out to explore the surrounding flora and fauna. Once everyone was back on board there was the opportunity to go swimming in the Sound. The water is both fresh water and salt, the salt water being heavier sinks below the fresh which sits on top. It is also coloured a rich brown by all the tannins washed into the water from the surrounding mountains and trees. Quite a lot of people went in, some slipped in from the landing stage for the kayaks whilst some climbed a ladder and jumped from the first floor! Even the crew joined in, jumping and diving in. Everyone said it was very cold, but seemed to enjoy it as many went in for more.

    Soup and a roll was served afterwards at about 5pm, but I didn’t fancy any, it was too soon after lunch for me. The boat then sailed on the length of the Sound to a fur seal colony at the mouth. We moved to the front of the top deck to try to get a good view. It was really windy and cold, luckily we had zipped back to our cabins to put on an extra layer before venturing up there. A large rock rose from the sea and all over it basked seals, some pups were playing, chasing each other around on the rock watched by their mothers whilst the large bulls kept an eye on their cows to make sure they didn’t stray. Moving away from the seals the boat sailed towards the edge of the shore where some yellow eyed penguins were spotted. Onwards the boat continued into the open ocean, the Tasmin Sea where there are some of the roughest waters in the world. The crew said the waters were quite calm but to us as we pitched up and down, tossed in the waves, it seemed anything but. I should have taken Janet’s offer of one of her accustraps which she swears prevents seasickness. Everyone was alert, looking for whales, but alas once more they evaded us, no sign of them at all. Eventually our little boat turned its prow back towards calmer waters and we sailed from the turbulent sea into the relative calm of the Sound. Our fingers and noses were quite numb by now so we decided to go back inside. Dinner was a delicious buffet affair. After dinner there was an optional talk on New Zealand flora. The boat was at anchor and it was very peaceful outside. Janet and I walked around on the deck in the dark, it was amazing how many noises we could hear coming from the forests on shore. Many birds we could not identify as well as many other noises from unknown creatures. The stars twinkled in the sky above and I saw a shooting star and what I think was a satellite, either that or it was an alien, but I think the satellite is more likely. It was very peaceful and serene.
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  • Day21

    Doubtful Sound

    July 30, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    So not far off 13 years to the day since Sam and I did this trip before, we left Te Anau just after 9.15 to head down to the harbour at Manapouri to board our boat across Lake Manapouri at about 9.45. The drive was about 15 minutes and we collected our boarding passes and our packed lunches we had pre-ordered - 2 vegetarians, a deluxe and an Asian to give us a good spread of food that everyone might eat.

    The boat left with 41 people on the trip - in summer it can be full with 150 people so we would have plenty of space. The weather was a little dull and cloud, but as it did 13 years ago, it cleared as we crossed the lake and by the time we got across it was sunny. The journey across took about 0 minutes and was to a backdrop of snow capped mountains and an entertaining commentary from the captain, including the fact the lake was officially 441m deep, but a boat's sonar had recently recorded it as 465m, which would put it back to the top of the list of NZ deepest lakes.

    We reached West Arm where we disembarked and waited in the visitor centre (last toilet stop for about an hour) then boarded our bus to take us across the Wilmot Pass to Doubtful Sound. The road was built in the 1960's to allow machinery to be transported from the Sound to the Manapouri hydro electric power station (which Sam and I had visited before but this was not currently on the agenda due to maintenance work). The bus journey had a good commentary from our driver/guide Justin and we stopped several times to take pictures at scenic spots.

    We got to Deep Cove on Doubtful Sound and boarded our boat, an impressive three level catamaran, with lots of room for us all to spread out. We headed out towards the Tasman Sea and, like Milford Sound the scenery was spectacular. Different to Milford in that the slopes weren't quite as steep or tall and seemed to have more vegetation on. But the sense of remoteness was more as we were the only boat on the Sound.

    We sailed past Sanctuary Rocks at the mouth of the Sound and the swell got bigger to the delight of the kids - like a real life pirate ship ride as we stood on the bow of the boat. It had got noticeably colder as we went up the Sound and the sun had gone in here so the wind was quite biting. It was worth it though as the next rocks at the mouth (about 2m further out) were a breeding ground for fur seals and there were probably a hundred or more on the rocks - cute as before, though bigger than the ones we had seen on the Peninsula at Dunedin. After a few minutes watching the seals we headed back into the Sound and sailed around the Sanctuary Rocks and saw tow Fiordland Crested penguins, very rare and very cute. After a few minutes they seemed to get a bit worried about us watching them and hopped up the rocks and hid behind one, so we moved on. We had also seen an albatross (not a royal one) swooping above the waves.

    We sailed back up the sound towards Crooked Arm, a spur off the side of the main sound. Conditions were cold nut perfect with hardly any wind and the reflections of the fjord sides in the water were very sharp. We saw classic U shaped hanging glacial valleys and towards the end of the Arm everyone was asked to stay still and silent and all the boat engines were turned off. All we could hear was the lapping of waves and occasional bird song, otherwise silence.

    This was broken by the engines going back on and we sailed out and made our way back to the Deep Cove dock. We reversed the journey by coach and boat over Lake Manapouri. We went to Ristorante di Toni for a pizza, lasagne and ice cream tea - very nice it was too.

    Last time we preferred Doubtful to Milford. Both were good this time but I think with flying into Milford that was the more memorable and the sun on the snow capped peaks made it spectacular. Seeing the rare penguins in Doubtful was a great bonus. Both enjoyable days.
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Malaspina Reach

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