Mérida

You guessed it! Another Volcano.

Maderas is the shorter of the two volcanoes that make up Ometepe, the surprisingly big island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. It hasn't been active as far as records go and this is evident with the thick green cloak it wears; tropical rainforest from (almost) lake to summit. We chose Maderas over the taller and more dramatic Conception (the other volcano) for two reasons; proximity to the hostel and because the scenery was very different to the last leg killer - Acatenango.

Alas we made the decision just before bed the night before, teed up a guide, ordered some food and hurried off to sleep - the 5.30am rise was a little unexpected.

The morning proved a bit of a faff as our guide waited for us to eat breakfast. Then we waited for our lunch to be prepared. Then we went to find water. Then we waited for a late comer. It wasn't until 7.30 when we actually started making progress toward the summit. Nonetheless I was thankful that we had not yet - and would not today - see the inside of a bus, van or other cramped and sticky form of transport. Win.

I love the efficiency in which central americans climb mountains. Again, the trail pointed at the summit essentially from bottom to top, no switchbacks or gradual climbs - these guys mean business! This time however we climbed from essentially sea level (our hostel - although technically a lake, it is still only 33m above the sea) to 1390m. A fair old nudge. As we neared halfway, the going got tough. A couple of french compatriots were hurting and threatened to pull out. We wouldn't have it, and despite still resenting them for the Rainbow Warrior we dragged their sorry arses to the top - literally at a snails pace. Our guide Simon, patient with the pace, was quick to amuse - wracking up the howler monkeys with impressive vocals and at one point even appearing to be in conversation with them. He was a great guide, humorous and self admittedly crazy with two front teeth made of gold to suit the personality.

We really found rainforest. Thick, wet, hot, muddy and infinitely green rainforest. The track got so steep and bush so thick that for much of the latter half of the walk, we were literally climbing up, over, under, along and around trees, tree roots and the like - all the while in the cloud with no buena vista in sight. The earth got sodden and the mud thickened but we pressed on - slowly but kind of surely. At a few places the track was nerve-wrackingly vertical making it quite a unique climb. We found the summit in thick cloud and sat down for some well earnt grub, the disappointment of whiteout evident on everyone's face. Except for Simon. He was yabbering at the cloud gods at the top of his lungs and waving his arms like a teacher erasing a whiteboard. What more would you expect from a man who's been climbing that same mountain four times a week for the last 20 years?!

Twenty minutes or so later, Simon got even more excited. We perked up, stuck our heads over the crater and got a partial - then full - view of the crater lake, brown and scummy as it was. Moments later the isthmus and Conception came into sight, gently but deliberately announcing their presence. It was a spectacular view which belatedly rewarded all of our efforts. It had nothing on Acatenango but what will? Perhaps we ought to lower the bar!

I can't say the descent was any easier. Lowering ourselves through gaps in tree roots and slipping through mud and rock. It took almost as long as the ascent and was just - if not more - fatiguing. The sun came out and we found glimpses of view on the way down but this came with the heat we had been lucky to avoid all morning.

When we reached the bottom, hunger, heat and fatigue had taken their toll and there were a few broken souls. They made a swift recovery with Coke, chips, bananas and beer, topped off with a swim and hammock. Cheers Maderas!

I won't go without reiterating how mental our guide was. He's 61 and doesn't look a day over 40. He's also fit as a fiddle, not just walking but running too. Last Friday was the annual Ometepe ultramarathon. He competed with 38 or so others from all over the continent in a 100km course that makes our wee climb look like a walk in the park. Not only do they circumnavigate the island (and some - it's bigger than it looks), but for good measure they throw in the ascent of Maderas AND Conception (8 and 12 hour hikes respectively) - oh and a 200 yard swim across the crater lake, just 'cause. Wanna know the best part? It's almost all done in the dark, kicking off at 6pm and the leader not coming through until 6am earliest. I'm personally struggling to think of anything more difficult. Also pretty chuffed that Cat and I picked all that up in Spanish! (Admittedly it took a few tries and a large amount of disuading our disbelief). I guess I'll sleep like the baby I am tonight while the real men summit mountains like champs!Read more