Peru
Atuncolla

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    • Day 60

      Du bord du lac à Sillustani

      November 21, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Par Alban

      ⏰ Réveil à 4h35, on veut absolument voir le levé de soleil sur le lac Titicaca, il y’a un peu de nuage mais vers 5h le paysage est sublime, un beau levé de soleil ! Youpi, on est content, en plus il ne fait pas si froid. On mange le p’tit dej pis on décolle vers 6h30.

      Grosse journée aujourd’hui car on a décidé de sauter une étape et d’aller directement à Sillustani pour dormir. Donc 127km au programme avec peu de dénivelé positif, seulement 2 côtes gentilles.

      On part sur les chapeaux de roues car on se fait courser par des chiens et en même temps il y’a des voitures sur la route qui n’apprécient pas trop nos écarts pour éviter les chiens.. ça me mets en rogne. La matinée est un peu longue et il y’a pas mal de circulation sur la route, de plus il y’a encore d’autres chiens qui nous attendent patiemment sur la route.. Bref après 95km, une pause gâteaux et plusieurs courses poursuites avec les chiens on arrive à Puno pour la pause midi ! Le centre ville est beau mais ne vaut pas le coup d’y passer plus de temps qu’un midi. Le restaurant conseillé par le guide du routard est fermé, pas grave on va suivre notre instinct qui nous guide vers un restaurant au menu à 12 sol avec entrée, soupe, plat, dessert et boissons !
      Miam ! Pl mangera un truite et moi des lentilles avec un bifteck, plutôt bien cuit, je ne suis pas encore malade 8h après lorsque j’écris ces lignes. 🙃

      Bref repas hyper bon, encore une fois, on sors acheter 2-3 fruits pour le soir, une carte SIM pour moi, du pain, de l’eau et hop on repars direction la laguna Umayo et le village de Sillustani recommandé par le routard mais on ne sait plus pourquoi. 14km dont 2 km de montée pour sortir de Puno, j’irais tranquillement jusqu’en haut laissant Pl bourriner comme il a envie, arriver en haut, c’est du plat qui nous attend avec une petite côte pour arriver au village mais rien de bien méchant.

      15h30, on arrive au village, on négocie pour dormir et on paye l’entrée de la visite. On relis le guide du routard pour savoir où on est quand même, il s’agit en fait d’un ancien « cimetière » Inca et pré inca avec de tours en pierre particulière où ils enterrent leurs morts. Différentes époques sont présentes et donc différents style de « Chullpas », du simple tas de pierre aux immense tours de 12m de haut parfaitement circulaire montée par les incas. C’est intéressant car je parle à Pl des « Allées couvertes » par chez moi qui sont de même des monuments en pierre destinés aux morts.
      Je trouve drôle qu’a chaque bout de la terre l’homme ai eu l’envie d’enterrer ces morts dans différents édifices en pierre.
      La visite est très sympa et nous discuterons de notre périple avec un italien. J’achèterai un magnet pour mes grands-parents car je pense que ces édifices en pierre parlerons à ma grand mère ancienne prof d’histoire.

      On redescend dans le village où l’on a laissé nos vélos, puis on monte la tente. Fin Pl monte la tente car moi je me fais câliner par un chien (très gentilles quand on est pas sur nos vélos ces bêtes là).
      Après la tente montée et les affaires rangées on prépare le repas, avocat, pâte sauce tomate et soupe tomate. Ainsi qu’un fruit ressemblant à du melon e dessert. Miam un bon repas avant d’aller au dodo vers 19h. 😋
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    • Day 277

      Sillustani

      August 30, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Ich verlasse Puno und den Titicacasee. Unschlüssig in welcher Richtung es weitergehen soll, ist die Entscheidung zunächst den ca. 34 KM entfernten Sillustani- Friedhof zu besuchen. Und ich bin überrascht wie groß und umfangreich dieser Anlagenkomplex ist. Über hundert Steintürme – Chullpas genannt – die höchsten bis zu 15 m hoch. Ein Ort, voller Mystik und Spiritualität. Es stammt aus der Colla-Ära und wurde von den Incas übernommen. Hier auf diesem Hügel wurden die Überreste von Adligen, Herrschern und Priestern des alten Aymara-Königreichs begraben. Die Türme haben eine kleine Öffnung die alle nach Osten ausgerichtet sind um mit dem Sonnengott zu kommunizieren. Ja, die Anlage und Umgebung sind faszinierend und ich verbleibe länger hier als vermutet. So schaffe ich es bis Imata. Einem kleinen staubigen Ort in dem man anhält, sich ein Hostel sucht, duscht, etwas isst, kein wlan hat und sich im Bett mehrere Decken über den Kopf zieht um nicht zu erfrieren und am nächsten morgen früh weiter fährt. Und genau das mache ich auch. Die Menschen sind freundlich und Blue steht sicher.Read more

    • Day 15

      La Chapilla to Juliaca to Sillustani

      October 2, 2023 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      For this day we had planned to cycle the 100km to Juliaca and stay at a Casa de Ciclistas.

      We both had heard quite a few stories about Juliaca but our BnB hosts assured us it we would not need to worry as long as we don't walk around the town at night. However, they did also call it the "wild wild west" of Peru and a "city without rules or police" where people take justice into their own hands. So we were curious to see what this place might look like.

      The ride there was quite beautiful, pdsing lots of lagunas with flamingos as well as many Llamas, Alpacas and Vicunjas. It was mainly downhill or straight and we had lots of tailwind, making it our fastest ride so far, reaching Juliaca in less than 4 hours.

      This was definitely one of the least nice places I've come across so far. The description of it as wild west of Peru seemed to extend also to the traffic, which was more chaotic than anything I had witnessed before in Asia, South America or anywhere else.
      In addition there where pupets carrying warning messages for thieves hanging from lamp posts all around town. Not the most inviting sign.

      It took us quite some time to make our way to the center and reach the alleged casa de ciclistas...but unfortunately no-one was there to let us in.

      After a quick lunch we decided not to look for an alternative to stay in Juliaca but to continue another 25km south.
      On a small gravelroad we made our way to Sillustani, a small archaeological sight next to a laguna that we heard would let you camp on their premises for free.
      After setting up camp we still had some time to explore the ruins and enjoy the view of the sunset with a cold(ish) beer 😀

      🚴‍♀️Distance cycled: 125km
      🦙Animals spottet: Llamas, Flamingos, Alpacas, Vicunjas, lots of dogs
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    • Day 14

      Auf dem Weg nach Cusco

      September 26, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

      Heute früh ging es schon halb sieben in Richtung Cusco los.
      Der erste Stopp war in Sillustani. Dort gab es interessante Grabtürme aus Präinkazeit und der Inkazeit zu besichtigen. Die Inkas haben immer die vorhandenen kulturellen Bauten übernommen und um- und ausgebaut.Read more

    • Day 143

      Sillustani

      March 31, 2018 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      After very exciting llama visit, we have finally arrived to our destination.
      The place we have entered was so peaceful and tranquil. After short information from our tour guide, we set of to walk towards the towers.
      Sillustani is a place of final rest for generations, from pre-Inca to Inca's themselves and walking amongst the funeral towers we could explore all the different types.
      Our tour guide was absolutely excellent and told us about history of the place and legends that come with it.
      Once we got to the top of the peninsula, with the sun setting over the lake, I could understand why this place have been chosen. It felt very peaceful!
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    • Day 143

      Llama break

      March 31, 2018 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Our first stop was rather unexpected but once we have seen llamas outside of the houses, I was over the moon.
      The place was very picturesque with small houses arranged to a small farm.
      Firstly our tour guide talked to us about the different breeds of llamas and then gave us time to take pictures and cuddle those amazing animals.
      Afterwards we have been invited inside for explanation of the local agriculture.
      We have been shown different types of potatoes, quinoa and other crops. On the top of that we got to try local medicine for gastric problems, clay mixed with hot water and salt served with boiled potatoes.
      Petr had to try local cheese that was very tasty but none of us were brave enough to try alcohol with soaked snakes that supouse to be great for back pain and many other things.
      Overall it was one of the best stops we had on our tours and we really enjoyed.
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    • Day 71

      Auf dem Weg nach Cusco

      January 16 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Weiter geht es Richtung Norden - der nächste Pass wartet auf uns, Abra la raya 4330m hoch. Unser Fiat läuft gut, die Höhe ist schon anstrengend. In Cusco stehen wir an einem Hotel im Garten.

    • Day 145

      Back to the smoke

      April 21, 2016 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

      We arrive back from the island and after getting a bite to eat head out to purchase our ticjets for the onward journey. After much bartering we manage to buy the tickets for 20 bolivianos each, the equivalent of £2 which is a good price seeing as they started at 40, and as we are walking away feeling very chuffed with ourselves, the woman calls us back to tell us there are no more seats on the bus. We go to another stall and its the same there, but the woman gives us an option of getting on a minibus. We have read that this is not neccasarily the best option, but its better than being stuck here for another night. We head to the border which is literally 10 mins up the road and get our luggage of the roof rack and enter the immigration office forming once again an orderly queue. There are signs everywhere saying silence, and the guy on the desk is definitely not happy in his job. Everybody else has a piece of paper saying with a visa on it, but we have never been given one so the police official gives us one to fill in and sends us to the back of the line like a naughty little school girl . Official papers filled in and we have officialy left Bolivia .I''m quite proud as im one of the only people weve spoken to who hasnt had food poisoning here, my stomach must be stronger than i think. We then have to walk across the border into Peru wher a couple of hundred metres down the road is the Immigration office. Once again in a queue we get stamped in and the guy here is even more miserable than the last one. Im so glad we have Olivia with us as my Spanish definitely isnt up to scratch here . We are put in a taxi for approximately 5 mins and then offloaded into a minibus full of Peruvians. We make our way along the coast and about half way into the journey we see the most horrific crash with a minibus and a lorry. It really makes you think how easy this can happen. The drivers here are lunatics and overtake in the most ridiculous places. We safely arrive in Puno a few hours later and although we havent booked into a hostel we have a couple in mind. Olivia asks the bus driver if he can take us to our hostel and he totally blanks her, so weve gone from a place where they totally lie to a place where they just dont answer you.
      We are dropped at the bus station and as we get off the bus there are loads of tuc tucs , complete with full disco lights and balloons. Its very apparent we have left the tranquility and are once again in a city , the hustle and bustle of the traffic and the whole feel makes me wish i could get straight back on a bus for Isla de Sol. We book into a matrimonial room as its only a quid more expensive than a dorm . We are pretty hungry so after unpacking and chilling a while we decide to go out and grab a bite to eat, plus the fact that we have no Peruvian soles we desperately need to find a bank. Its absolutely pouring and freezing cold so with 3 jumers and my raincoat on we set off. Just as we round the corner for the main plaza, there is Sophie looking like a lost sheep. We find a bank and head for the nearest restaurant. This strret is definitely touristy and although its 18 soles ( 3.50) for starters mains and pudding, im sure there is cheaper. We are shown to the back of the restaurant where a big log fire is burning and i go and stand by it to dry out. On the shelf is an ornament of and old couple and i pick it up to show the guys that its me and Mark, but in doing so everything else falls down with a clatter and as the restaurant workers come to see whats going on , I stand there innocently apologising. Back at the hostel there is a pamphlet advertising the various things the hostel hs to offer. and one of them is a hitter we all laugh and translate it to a heater which we both request as its bloody freezing. We retire to our rooms with our heaters full blast and sleep well .
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    • Day 21

      Sillustani

      September 25, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Heute haben wir einen Trip zu den Gräbern bei Sillustani gemacht. Auf dem Weg dorthin sind wir bei einem Bauernhaus vorbei. Dort gab es, neben den üblichen Souvenirs, Alpakas, Llamas und eine Cuy Farm. Kartoffeln mit Lehm durften wir dort auch probieren. Die Gräber und die Landschaft drumherum sehen ein bisschen aus, wie aus einer anderen Welt. Hier hatten die Inkas nur 100 Jahre Zeit, die Gebäude der lokalen Bevölkerung zu verbessern bis die Spanier kamen.Read more

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