Peru
Cabanaconde

Here you’ll find travel reports about Cabanaconde. Discover travel destinations in Peru of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

83 travelers at this place:

  • Day64

    Colca Canyon - runter und wieder rauf

    December 13, 2018 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Es ist gerade halb 10 morgens und wir sitzen in einem Bus von Cabanaconde zurück nach Arequipa (der Bus stößt übrigens sooo schwarze Rauchwolken aus, dass sich der Fahrer über die deutsche Feinstaub-Diskussion wohl nur totlachen würde 😂). Frühstück hatten wir auch gerade: Steaksandwich, Empanadas, Schokolade, Cola - das haben wir uns nach dem Aufstieg aus dem Colca Canyon nämlich verdient! 💪

    Gestern sind wir um halb 4 morgens in unserem Hotel abgeholt worden. Mit dem modernsten und schönsten Minibus der ganzen bisherigen Reise. Das hat aber nicht viel gebracht, denn gerade eine Stunde außerhalb von Arequipa ist der Keilriemen gerissen und somit heißt es für uns erst mal warten: auf die vergeblichen Reparaturversuche des Busfahrers und schließlich auf den Ersatzbus.
    Um 12 Uhr, mit drei Stunden Verspätung und nach 8,5 Stunden „Fahrt“ kommen wir dann endlich am Ausgangspunkt unserer Wanderung an. Der Minibus war übrigens von Mercedes - das nur als Anmerkung nebenbei 😂.
    Wir steigen in der Mittagshitze ca. 2 Stunden in den Colca Canyon ab und sind mal wieder beeindruckt von der herrlichen Landschaft Perus. Der Canyon ist übrigens der zweittiefste Canyon der Welt und fast doppelt so tief wie der Gran Canyon.😍 Zwischen Kakteen, buntem Gestein und mehreren grünen Oasen sind wir beide zuvor auch noch nicht so oft gewandert.
    Am Talboden angekommen, steuern wir die Oase Sangalle an, in der wir uns für die Nacht einquartiert haben. Auf der Karte sieht der Weg relativ gerade und wenig anstrengend aus... tja, falsch gedacht: die Wanderung hält für uns doch mehr Höhenmeter rauf und runter bereit, als wir erwartet hatten. Gott sei Dank entschädigen uns die herrlichen Ausblicke und ein wirklich abwechslungsreicher Wanderweg für die Mühen. Kaputt aber glücklich kommen wir am Nachmittag an und genießen ein (fast) kühles Bier am Pool unserer Oasen-Lodge. Das klingt jetzt luxuriöser als es war, aber die Betten, das Essen und die Pools bieten alles, was man sich nach einer Wanderung wünscht.
    Diese Oase im Canyon ist wirklich ein besonderer Ort: rings um uns steigen steile Felswände auf und wir sitzen hier in einem grünen Paradies. Im Colca Canyon wird einem mehr als anderswo bewusst, wie sehr alle Pflanzen und Tiere vom Wasser abhängig sind.

    Wer einen Canyon hinunter steigt, muss ihn allerdings auch wieder hoch. 😅 Und das haben wir soeben erledigt. Kurz nach Sonnenaufgang geht’s 1100 Höhenmeter quasi gerade nach oben (keine Übertreibung!), aber wir schlagen uns gut und erledigen die Strecke in 2 Stunden.

    Jetzt geht’s mit dem öffentlichen Bus (halb so teuer wie der gecharterte Minibus und hoffentlich mit unzerstörbaren Keilriemen 🤞) zurück nach Arequipa. Nochmal belohnt uns der Colca Canyon: aus dem Busfenster sehen wir einen majestätischen Condor, der über dem Abgrund seine Kreise zieht.
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  • Day201

    La buena vida à Cabanaconde !

    November 28, 2018 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Promenade sur les différents spots avec une vue magnique sur les montagnes. Entre temps petit stop pour saluer les cochons, les chevaux et les ânes. Assister à la visite d'un politicien pour sa campagne électorale. Et tout ça finir par l'anniversaire d'un collègue de travail avec un cocktail fait maison à base de pisco sour. La buena vida!Read more

  • Oct6

    Trek dans le canyon du Colca: jour 3

    October 6, 2018 in Peru

    Ce matin, départ à 4h30 pour l'ascension du canyon jusque Cabanaconde où nous attend un petit déjeuner. Nous avons commencé à monter dans la nuit à la seule lumière de nos frontales. La lumière du jour qui se lève sur les montagnes, les volcans et les glaciers était magnifique.
    Après 3h de marche et un bon petit déjeuner, nous sommes allés aux sources chaudes de Yanke. Les bassins chauffés naturellement étaient à différentes températures très chaudes qui nous ont fait beaucoup de bien :)
    Après le déjeuner, nous sommes repartis en bus direction Arequipa mais avons fait plusieurs arrêts en chemin. Nous sommes montés à 4910m pour voir un magnifique panorama sur tous les volcans de la région et sommes passés par la réserve naturelle d'Aguada Blanca où nous avons vu plein de lamas et alpagas dans les pâturages.
    Nous avons même vus plusieurs condors en chemin!
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  • Day84

    Cabanaconde

    February 7 in Peru ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Nach einer Nacht im Bus bin ich direkt mit Mats und Amelie weiter nach Cabanaconde zum Colca Canyon gefahren. Am ersten Tag sind wir zwei Stunden durch den Regen bis ins Tal gewandert, wo wir pünktlich mit den letzten Sonnenstrahlen ankamen. An Tag zwei ging es auf der anderen Seite wieder hinauf und nach einer Menge spontaner Planänderungen bis nach Fure, wo wir hinter Wolken und Regen die zwei Wasserfälle erahnen konnten. Am nächsten Tag waren die erwarteten Thermalquellen im Tal leider geschlossen, doch konnten wir zurück in Cabanaconde einen feierlichen Umzug zu Ehren einer Virgen beobachten.Read more

  • Oct5

    Trek dans le canyon du Colca: jour 2

    October 5, 2018 in Peru

    Ce matin, notre guide Omar nous réveille en soufflant dans son «pututo»: coquillage que les incas utilisaient pour se prévenir qu'un messager arrivait.
    Après le petit déjeuner, nous avons continué notre route dans le canyon en passant par les petits village de Cosñirhua et Malata et avons fini à «l'oasis» de Santalle. Nous avons pu profiter de la piscine et du superbe paysage toute l' après-midi.Read more

  • Day260

    Cabanaconde, Peru

    July 4, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Colca Canyon.

    Cabanaconde is a quaint wee town sitting pretty on the ridge of the world's second deepest canyon; Colca Canyon. Colca's not like the Grand Canyon. It has a mountainous surround which makes the actual extent of the canyon and it's ridges almost impossible to discern. Nonetheless, it's jolly deep. It took us all day to get here by bus. The bus we hoped to catch didn't run on Sundays (of course) so we ended up waiting in the bus terminal for two hours before we even left. Not a good start.

    Fortunately we decided to splash out a little on our hostel in Cobanaconde (Pachamama, $15 pn ea) and were greeted by a fantastic group of staff when we arrived in the early evening. It was definitely what we needed after that painstakingly long day on crammed buses. Pachamama has it all, restaurant, bar, happy hour, bikes for rent, tours, a pizza oven, hot and powerful showers, great staff and a wealth of information on how to approach the canyon. (Seriously they made their own map with trail routes and explanations in incredible detail - much more valuable than the gimmicky tourist map the Canyon Authority gives you on paying your exorbitant $30 entrance fee).

    After much debate and a good old fashioned game of option-slinging we decided to spend two nights in the canyon. Then a German couple joined us for dinner. Now, I've seen tired people. I've seen grumpy people. I've seen upset and I've seen hungry. In fact, I've been all four. At once - and I'm sure most of you have witnessed it. But this was next level. This girl had long since bitten off more than she could chew and had spent most of her day on the back of a mule making an ass of herself in an effort to escape the depths of the canyon. Whilst she made good headway putting us off a canyon trek altogether, her boyfriend made feeble attempts to stick up for her lack of tenacity. It wasn't before long that we realised her recovery meal of choice was a lousy vegetable soup and swiftly disregarded all of their advice and further compressed our hike into just two days. If she'd been eating a llama steak or a family sized pizza we might have taken her more seriously. You are what you eat, right?

    We started day one nice and early to beat the heat. I finally accepted the weakness of my knee (in the face of a 1200m descent) and succumbed to a walking stick, much to my own disgrace. I'm glad I did 'cause walking that far down what is essentially steps might just have caused me to be the one on the back of a mule. We hit the base of the canyon before midday and after another hour or two more of up-downing we reached our destination of Llahuar; a tiny town at the base of the canyon. We lunched, changed and spent about four hours in the riverside hot pools like seals in the sun. I will note the trend of an increasing number of French (close to every single person staying here was French); a trend that will continue the more we explore Peru. The lack of power and therefore light, was cause for an early night which we embraced at the prospect of a daybreak start the following morning.

    Day two in the canyon was tough on the legs. The map told us we had nearly nine hours walking which would cover nearly 2000m in elevation gain. We left Llahuar fueled by two pancakes, half a banana and a quantity of strawberry jam so exessive it put the waiter in shock. The elevation of the oasis at Sangelle (our destination for lunch) is barely higher than Llahuar. How much climbing could there be? Only a fool would ask that question and fools we felt as we climbed virtually out of the canyon before descending all the way back down to river level. A cruel track.

    Sangalle is an oasis and a remarkable one at that. Usually oasii (what is the plural of oasis?), at least those I have seen, are not so vividly distinguishable. Sangalle is not one of those. Diverting water from a nearby tributary, they've created lush green foliage and several enticingly blue pools, which sharply contrast against the dry and dusty canyon walls. It's a glorious retreat from the dry canyon heat. Cat and I sussed a pool to ourselves and spent two lazy hours lounging and lunching in midday heat. The idea of ascending 1200m under a baking sun seemed to take a back seat to, well, not.

    Finally we pulled ourselves together and started labouring up. It was 3.5 hours of steep, rocky uphill on legs that had already carried us for four hours on similar terrain. They tired quickly but our lungs appreciated the lower altitude and we had great laughs picturing our German friend having the (worst) time of her life. It was also fantastic to have the trail entirely to ourselves, save for trains of mules which we passed hauling goods (not tired Germans as we expected). We made it to the top just before dark and returned to the comfort of our hostel with what a Peruvian calls a cold beer (off the shelf). All that remained to round of our journey to Colca Canyon was the great Andean Condor and an excessive amount of busing.

    The following morning we watched the flight of the Condors from a nearby mirador with about 300 other tourists. It was quite the spectacle and the giant birds swooped within just a few metres of us to really excite the snap happy bunch. We proceeded on two dreadfully long buses to Puno (Peru's equivalent to Nicaragua's Rivas - the town nobody wants to visit but everybody has to) with gratitude only for a swift transition and the front seat.

    We stayed a night in transit in a splendid but cold hostel (Inka's rest), where I came down with an unidentifiable illness which I carried onto the bus to Cuzco the very next day - to share with Peruvian passengers as they have shared with me. Cuzco will no doubt be a long stop. Cat and I are well and truely over the bus.
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  • Day45

    Views from the church

    November 13, 2017 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    The views from the church were amazing. By now, the rain was coming from all around. We could see the rain falling in the Colca Canyon and the hills on the opposite side of the church. The only place that was dry was where we were and towards the village. We rushed back to avoid getting drenched.

  • Day45

    Back to Cabanaconde

    November 13, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    From the church on the hill, we managed to get back to the village before the rain started. At the main square, we also had some fried donuts like stuff the lady was selling.
    After that we were back at the hostel while it started raining.
    We repacked our day bags for the coming day since we would have to carry our things for the next 2 day's trek while we leave our main bags behind.
    Then in the evening, a major religious gathering happened in the main square with the speaker shouting some crazy stuff on the loudspeaker. Hristo actually dressed up and went out to see him. 😉
    It was 9 pm, time to sleep.
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  • Day46

    Start of Colca Canyon Trek

    November 14, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    The plan for the day was to start on the Colca Canyon trek.
    The trek is normally done in 2 days and basically involves going down one side of the canyon from 3200 mts at Cabanaconde to 2100 mts at the oasis at the bottom of the canyon and then up again on the other side to various villages at about 2500 mts, in one day. On the 2nd day, one can trek down into the canyon and up again on the Cabanaconde side using a different path to the top of the canyon and then loop back to Cabanaconde.
    Normally, all the tours follow the route in the opposite direction but we felt it to be more convenient in this direction since we would then avoid the crowds and reach the various places in the path when no one else is there.
    We woke up at around 7 am and had freshened up by 8 am. By the time we had our breakfast, it was about 9:15 am. It had been a lazy morning and we were about 1.5 hrs behind our planned time of departure. The clouds and rain from the previous evening had passed and it was a clear sunny day. The sun was directly overhead and it was quite hot during this part of the day.
    The start of the trek goes through some lovely fields of maize just outside the village. The lush green fields in the backdrop of the mountain range behind are a beautiful sight to behold. The locals have diverted water from the streams using aquaducts and sluice gates to water their fields.
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  • Day694

    Condor Canyon

    April 10, 2018 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    It was a loooong day drive down to Chivay, the gateway to the Colca Canyon, at over 9 hours. This is double what we would normally do, but we were way above 4,000m for almost all of it and we didn't fancy sleeping that high and exposed if we didn't need to. Actually when we reached the wild camp spot we had in mind the snow was coming down so thick there was no way we weren't going to drive the extra hour to drop down into the town.

    We squeezed into a small hostel driveway and had our first shower for 5 days. The following morning we stocked up in the local market and headed to yet another mechanic for a new noise that bizarrely started only as we pulled into the hostel the night before. First they found that the guys who did our alignment hadn't put things back together right, and our steering arms weren't secured. Everyone thought that was the noise started but within a few blocks it was obvious it wasn't. We headed back and completely stripped out the suspension one of the front wheels and found that the spring was rubbing on the housing which was making the racket. Apparently this spring was a different size to the other one, but it's bizarre we'd managed 30,000 miles without it causing an issue. Replacement parts were all the way back in Lima, so we used a lump hammer to buy us some breathing room so hopefully that's the end of our weird noises from the front end for a while (he says unconfidently).

    That had ruined our plan of a lazy day in the sun on the canyon edge, but actually he afternoon was thick fog so we tentatively found our camp spot on the canyon rim and settled down for the night.

    In the morning we woke to sun rise over the canyon, and took our morning brews to look out for the famous condors. We spent a couple of hours just sitting there watching the massive creatures (3m+ wingspan) cruising on the thermals.

    We parked up in the main square of the next small town and were delighted to bump into our friends we'd first met on the beach in El Salvador over a year ago. The last time we'd seen them involved all day drinking and a street burger in our home town of Leon, Nicaragua and we'd been chasing them down for the last couple of months. They'd just finished hike we were about to start so we made plans to meet in Arequipa and parted ways again.

    Surprisingly it only took us a couple of hours to descend down into the canyon floor 1,200m below. This time we were travelling light we found an 'Oasis' at the bottom with a nice swimming pool which we spent the afternoon lounging around. Maya lived it here especially as she had 2 amigos to play with who had followed us all tge way down from the top! After an early night in our private dorm we then headed back up which took considerably more time - just over 3 hours, still with our little band of doggies. Exhausted we headed back to Chivay and the wonderful thermal pools for an afternoon of soaking.
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Cabanaconde

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