Portugal
Antas

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    • Day 7

      Castelo da Neiva

      April 17 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      A 16km day nearly all inland, hot sun and some cobblestones, and one small climb.

      We had breakfast at our hostel, The Spot Ofir, and then an hour’s walk along the river Cávado.

      Setting out at 9:30 and had a few foot rest stops. We detoured along the beach as much as was possible, maybe 3km.

      Lunch at the 9km mark in Belinho was a “tosta mista” and a Coke at a bakery.

      Another 6 circuitous kms led us to where Google maps said our place was but it was not marked and took some finding behind a large unmarked locked gate. At the 3pm check-in time I phoned the owner and he provided a combination to get us in.

      The place is quite a nice apartment with a balcony overlooking a lush garden.

      The fridge has breakfast supplies too and we can make coffee.

      A short day but not as easy as expected. Great to have space to spread out in tonight.

      After cleaning up and a rest we dined at Restaurante Encosta do Monte, 500 up the hill, on the recommendation of the owner. Good grub, good value.
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    • Day 5

      This wind has been far out at sea...

      May 12, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      'scuse me, Ted Hughes!
      I slept like a log last night 😴😴😴. It was great to just stay in and chill and climb into bed (quite literally, I was on the top bunk😅) at about 9.00pm! With no kindle (coke incident🙄) it meant I could just close my eyes and relax, and I did!
      We left the 'guest house' at 7.30am after a small first breakfast of left over bread, cheese and watermelon; to walk so early was fabulous. We walked along the coast for a few kms before turning inland, which was brilliant as the wind miraculously disappeared 😆. Walking on the coastal boardwalks has been lovely if windy, but inland it's all cobbles that aren't so comfy or easy on your feet. After 7km we reached Apuila to find our second breakfast but we were on the wrong side of town (all the cafés were at the coast, we weren't), so another 3.5km to Fao it was! A gorgeous gluten and lactose free quiche set us up and OurJan definitely had a spring in her step after that🤭.
      Another stop at Marinhas called for a very welcome beer and some salty crisps and then it was just a few kms to Antas, where we're staying.
      Somewhere along the way (in Esposende, actually) I realised I'd developed a small blister on a little toe so stopped to dress it. No worries!
      It was good to see, along the way, that the Portuguese have questionable garden furniture taste as well 😜.
      When we reached Antas OurJan asked me to look at her blisters 😨. One of her little toes is very poorly 😕 so perhaps the new walking shoes aren't so perfect 😉. Next pair, OurJan!
      This 'guest house' is fantastic. It has all mod cons, a fridge full of beer and a pizza delivery driver who speaks English - result!
      It's bed again at 9.00pm, hurrah, and a 25km walk to Carreço tomorrow (although OurJan might well be taking a taxi!)
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    • Day 6

      Red vs Blue - what to do?

      May 13, 2023 in Portugal

      Not Liverpool versus Everton, although I have to say if it was red vs blue, Everton would win every time! 😉 If only...
      Just 3 of us walking today. Very sensibly, OurJan decided to have a rest day for her toes, so she stayed in Antas for the morning and took a taxi to our accommodation in Carreço at lunchtime.
      We decided to walk the 25km to Carreço and set off at 0730 with a bit of oomph (only a bit...)😆. It was a fab walk through old small towns and villages following the blue route until we came to a decision point. Red (which would take us closer to the coast, which we were missing) or continue inland on blue? A joint decision to follow the red route meant it wasn't my fault 🤭😜😅. The red line on Google maps led us along some wonderful, ancient tracks and into small villages with no shops or cafés, so when we fell across a small café we fell into it for our first breakfast! Just one croissant and one 'thing' was left for us to eat, so we cut each into 3 and shared them. It was pretty much pure sugar, but we needed it! I have a brilliant 'builder's bum' photo if you'd like to see it! We continued, meeting an Irish couple walking the other way and stopping for a chat, and thank goodness I checked our route because we were well off track 🙄😅. Where's Julie when you (desperately) need her? So backtrack number 1 of the day...
      We finally reached the beaches and stopped for a very early lunch (or second breakfast) of cheese and ham omelettes (ordered), which arrived as cheese and ham toasties 🤭. But they were delicious and much appreciated!
      We walked on and actually found a boardwalk 👏👏👏 so we could walk next to the ocean. Fabulous! But said boardwalk ended abruptly and the route (had we followed it) went for kilometres over the dunes!!! No way!!! So, backtrack number 2... Unfortunately, this meant we had to walk the rest of the way to Viana do Castela on the road, which was very tiring and sometimes quite hairy! But we arrived in Viana after about 22kms and sat down for a much needed beer.
      It didn't take us long to agree to a taxi which took us to OurJan in Carreço. We're staying at a lovely casa, although the rules are a little strange 🤪. We had to be out of the kitchen by 7.00pm (no problem) but at 6.58pm the lady of the house yelled "no more cooking!" 😆. This suited us as we'd eaten and I'd just burned a bag of popcorn in the microwave 🤣🤣🤣. We retreated to our rooms, house stinking of burned popcorn, and are now preparing ourselves for Eurovision (popcorn-less, despite having 2 more bags in my backpack, but I'm not risking the wrath of her ladyship 😲🤭🤣).
      Moral of today's story? Everton. Every time! 🤣
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    • Day 6

      Halbzeit

      April 18 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Die ersten Stunden führten mich durch ein kleines Gebirge. Erst rauf, dann runter. Schon etwas anspruchsvoller zu laufen als Gestern. Dafür entschädigte mich die eindrucksvolle Natur und die wohltuende Stille.Read more

    • Day 45

      Neues Fähnchen 🇵🇹 und neue Batterie🔋

      October 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      Nach unserem Besuch in Santiago de Compostela, sollte es am nächsten Morgen weiter Richtung Süden geben.
      Doch beim Startversuch kam nur ein merkwürdiges Klack Klick, paar mal probiert und dann nix mehr....Tod!
      "Das hörte sich aber schon komisch an": Günther befürchtet es könnte der Anlasser sein!🫣🤔
      Nach ein paar Tests und Versuchen stellten wir fest.....-nicht der Anlasser ist Schrott, sondern die Starterbatterie ist hinüber. Warum auch immer?..........und Gott sei Dank🤪
      Durch Umpolen und laden über Solar, sprang die Kiste nach einer guten Stunde, oh jubel......wieder an! 🤸

      Nun erstmal los und irgendwo eine neue Batterie besorgen, aber wo🔋?
      Unverrichteter Dinge mit Fragezeichen im Gesicht, legen wir noch eine Übernachtung in Pontevedra ein.
      Wo wir am nächsten Morgen dann doch fündig wurden.........und da stand mir die Erleichterung ins Gesicht geschrieben 😁🥳

      Noch schnell eingebaut und weiter geht's!
      Unser nächstes Fähnchen ⛳️ ja, es wartet da hinten schon. 😉
      Juhu 🙌 geschafft! Da ist es 🇵🇹....Portugal ist erreicht!

      Und was soll ich sagen, hier schaut auch die Sonne 🌞 malwieder kurz vorbei😅
      Nur der Wind ist uns gefolgt, aber Sturm ist ja erst wenn die Schafe 🐑 keine Locken mehr tragen 😂
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    • Day 6

      Oh Boy

      September 4, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      It's been an eventful morning with lots of Ks and very little progress towards my bed for the night. But back en route 🤞and had breakfast ( with a little addition) Feeling refreshed if a little foolish but best step forward. Will explain more later nothing majorRead more

    • Day 24

      More Porto

      January 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Porto is an incredibly beautiful city! It’s very important to Portuguese History and Culture.

      Supposedly the name Portugal comes from the combination of Porto and the city next to it called Gaia.

      I spent 3 days here exploring the city both by myself and with people I meet at the Alburgue.

      Some highlights:

      -A free walking tour on a beautiful and sunny day! Everyone who was on the tour was traveling by themselves also, so we all had lunch together afterwards.
      -A very length brunch at a super chill cafe on Sunday where I read the book of James.
      -Visiting the ‘most beautiful bookstore in the world’ and purchasing a pocket version of Fernando Passoa’s only novel.
      -Some inexpensive but very tasty port wine.
      -A trip to the beach where I put my feet into the other side of the Atlantic Ocean.

      At least in the old part of the city, it felt like there was always something else around the next corner, either a beautiful old church, some street art, a busker, or statue.
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    • Day 24

      Etapa 14: Porto

      January 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      In Porto, I stayed at the Alburgue de Peregrinos all 3 nights. There were 5-7 pilgrims arriving night.

      The first two nights I was there, Lee cooked a dinner from South Korea. After Lee had left, I wanted to take up the mantle of making dinner because food is such a good way to connect with people. I made chicken n dumplings with the help of a French guy who was quite hesitant at first about putting dough in a soup, but who ended up really enjoying the meal. I also taught everyone who joined for the meal how to play the spoons!

      Some people I met:

      Two women from the Czech Republic who had never met before but who showed up on the same day and joined Lee (from Korea) for dinner.

      A French guy named Sasha who worked as a mason and is traveling with almost no technology. He is quite good a percussion and we talked about different places that he has been busking.

      Three American women from Massachusetts who all worked on the same organic farm.

      A Belgian who was doing the Camino by bicycle. Very Belgian of him.

      A Ukrainian who was walking the French Camino when the war started and who then walked to Porto. She stayed at this Alburgue as a volunteer and now is full time and runs the place.

      Juan Pablo, who is Fran’s brother. He walked with Fran for 4 days and is now going to Santiago, but the Santiago in Chile to work for a Utility Scale Solar Company. We talked a lot about the energy industry,

      A Belgian named Anna who has spent the last year traveling and who is a volunteer. She plays guitar. She, Juan Pablo and I played some songs together with me playing harmonica and Juan Pablo sometimes on the spoons. We played some songs in Spanish that I didn’t know and also ‘Country Roads’ that everyone knows.

      A German from Konstanz. I’d been to his city before and he was very familiar with St, Gallen and was surprised that I knew so much about the area where he was from.

      Two Hungarians who didn’t speak any English but who made some pumpkin in the over and offered it to Lee and I. I’m still confused as to why they did this. They didn’t eat any and also but no salt or spices on the roasted pumpkin which was roasted for an incredibly long time. Lee and I each had one piece.
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    • Day 5

      Casa da Carolina, Anha

      September 9, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Eine wunderbare ruhige Nacht und ein schönes Frühstück. Sandra ist eine sehr nette und interessante Gastgeberin. Angeblich hätte es heute den ganzen Tag regnen sollen, aber nicht ein Tropfen (und ich hätte es der Region gegönnt!). Hier wird bereits Mais 🌽 gehäckselt, der nicht gut aussieht!
      Wir hatten strahlenden Sonnenschein und ab mittags mehrere Anstiege- da wurden die 25 km auch lang.
      Wir haben aber eine tolle Herberge gefunden, so dass man schön entspannen kann.
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    • Day 9

      Lampiao Cafe

      August 16, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      It’s amazing how some peoples create their life around the Camino. They provide accommodation, meals or just friendship. The pub we stopped at for lunch was incredible. Money was no object and he just wanted us to have a good time.Read more

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    Antas

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