Portugal
Arcozelo

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    • Ponte de Lima rest day

      September 26 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Meds are helping. I still take stairs down sideways, but I managed walking up hills and on slippery sidewalks today.

      Ponte de Lima is a lovely town, when its not raining. Named for the bridge over the river Lima, this is the oldest town in Portugal. There’s been a lot of military encampments here over the centuries, from Romans on. Streets are, of course, narrow, windy, and mostly cobbled. Houses butt up against each other, some in grave disrepair. Everything seems to be built of stone and the classic churches go way, way back. I marvel at how old things are, how little they’ve changed, how traditions extend for many generations.
      This is grape harvest season and all family hands are called on to get the grapes down on dry days or the wine will be ruined. So yesterday’s heavy rains pushed off the work, hoping for tomorrow.

      Inner journey: I sat in the church next door that chimes every half hour between 8h and 21h. I said I choose to forgive … and I ran through every name I could think of that fits from my old job. Then I brushed my hands off several times and felt done. DONE. Then I looked at the two compassionate-looking statues and asked, “ok, help me know what’s next”. Still listening.
      I have been asking my knee what it wants me to know and what I get so far is that it is giving me a reason to have an easy-ish Camino. I have a reason to stop after 10-12 K whenever there’s a cafe or landmark on a road and call for a ride. Tomorrow has a rough mountain climb that I will not do. But there’s a cafe next to our lady of something or other chapel where I can end my walk, just before the mountain climb, on account of my knee. Thanks!!!
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    • Balugaes to Ponte de Lima

      September 25 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

      Umm, there was no walking today. I woke up barely able to walk to the bathroom. And besides, moderate to heavy rain, with a chance of floods, was forecast.

      I decided to reach out to the itinerary planner, Portugal Green Walks(PGW), for a clinic suggestion. They advised a particular hospital in Ponte de Lima. Tears streaming, I ordered an Uber to fetch me from the hotel and take me to the hospital. He spoke decent English and was hopeful that I’d have good results. I accept!

      The results were good. Nothing bad on the x-rays, and an Rx for pain killers and stronger anti inflammatory. 2 every 6 hours if needed. And doc said my planned rest day in Ponte de Lima, tomorrow, was well timed and I could continue on the Camino as long as I could tolerate the pain. And, I had to cover the full cost of the visit, 70euro. Why the heck are American medical charges so high?!?

      PGW was tracking me on WhatsApp and picked me up at the hospital to take me to the hotel and had arranged an early check in and had gotten my suitcase there ahead of me. Big hugs to Ines from PGW. There was a Farmacia a couple doors away and just across the street, a warm pilgrim lunch, with salad AND vegetables including zucchini.

      And I had been such a brave girl that I deserved a lovely chocolate crepe for dessert.
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    • Day 19

      Day 7 Corgo to Ponte de Lima

      September 21 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      After being woken up to a chorus of competing roosters in the neighborhood, we sat down to a delicious breakfast cooked by Jacinto. Then we headed out. We have 9+ miles today. We walked through farmland again today. Some of the fields had recently been fertilized. Phew! We walked with our German friend Martin today. He’s a retired police officer. We had a lot of good conversation with him. His English was very good. I (Laura) got a blister yesterday on our long day, so I was trying to take it easier today. Rock and cobblestone roads are hard on the feet.

      Ponte de Lima is the oldest city in Portugal. It was built by the Romans. The bridge was built in the first century. The road into the city felt like an old Roman road. It was a beautiful walk into the city through tall old trees overarching the road. This is a charming medieval town, complete with castle, church, narrow cobblestone streets, and shops.
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    • Day 6–7

      Day three walking

      April 18 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Honestly do not know what town we are in, but it is in Portugal. Today was a long one. We started walking at 9 and did not get to hotel till close to 5. 14 miles I think and three were uphill and treacherous. But we did it!!! My Apple Watch said I did 45 flights of stairs. I did not feel bad eating an ice cream bar before the last three miles. Staying at a farmhouse type of inn. I’m utterly exhausted. Went in the pool and hot tub post shower and could barely get out of bed for our meeting and dinner. Tomorrow is a new day. I’m enjoying my Spotify playlists and listening to the new Anne Lamott book. I cannot do all silence all day as my head is not a great neighborhood and I also can’t talk to people all day so the audio books, music and podcasts are great. I was happy to listen to Agne from Brisbane on Sobercast this morning. Missing my morning time with my anonymous friends. I’m a routine gal and while I’m loving being off social, email and text it’s been nice to check-in with some of my support from back home on what’s app. I could never do the entire Camino and stay at the Auberges. I’d lose my mind. God bless those people, but my self care, need for my routine, downtime, sleep hygiene, daily meetings, my gym, etc. are my keys to the healthy life I lead today of balance. Night night!Read more

    • Day 4

      Day 4 from Balugaes to Ponte de Lima

      September 8 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Day 4 Stats: 19Km/11.8 miles, less elevation gain than previous days 259m or 850 feet. We walked for 4hrs and 41 mins. 32000 steps today included walking to dinner and around town.
      Given that it was a shorter distance we left after breakfast around 9:30am. We walked through vineyards and cornfields, villages and past tons of chapels and churches. This morning we could hear a choir singing for quite a bit of our walk which was lovely. We had only one real break where I had a decaf coffee and a snickers. We finally arrived in Ponte de Lima. Today was tough for some reason. Maybe because it was sunnier/warmer… right foot/ankle wasn’t happy. We were told they had their biggest annual festival and it’s been so much fun soaking up the vibe of folklore and history, music, people and street food. We were lucky to find accommodation as it is a very busy weekend here. Because we are a day ahead of schedule, we are taking a day off tomorrow to let our feet and bodies recover. Looking forward to it!Read more

    • Day 10

      Best Salmon Ever

      June 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

      Finished off this rest day with a dinner of the best Salmon I’ve ever eaten! Portugal serves huge portions, which is great for our Camino appetites, but I can never finish my plate and there’s no taking it home! It’s 9pm and we just got back from dinner. I’ve still got to check on my laundry that’s air drying, shower and do a little pre-packing!Read more

    • Day 9

      Another evening amongst friends

      June 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 73 °F

      Ponte de Lima is charming! Bigger, but not really big. When we got back to our wonderfully air conditioned room, I took a nap. We found out that McDarra had stayed an extra day in town and we messaged him to join us for dinner. On our way to find dinner l we ran into Ellie, who had walked an extra long day! So the crew was back together! We also ran into our French “friends” a couple of times!! No mention of the missing air conditioning remote. 😉🫣 Evening was beautiful and the temp is once again bareable, but it makes it hard to call it a night early. Both Ellie and Mcdarra walk on tomorrow, while we take a rest day.Read more

    • Day 9

      Arrived in Ponte De Lima

      June 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

      It was a nice short and mostly flat walk to Ponte De Lima! We decided air conditioning was going to be a must and found a guest house, Casa De Travessa, that is rated very high! It’s very cute, very central and the host is very nice! 👍 We walked around a bit and found some lunch! Already 🥵 we’ve decided we might stay a second night, since temperatures are supposed to drop after that by about 10 degrees.Read more

    • Day 10

      Staying cool!

      June 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

      After a bit of meandering through some some riverside gardens and getting lunch, we decided to walk down the other side of the river a bit and do some swimming! After a while, we heard sounds of people and splashing! We have happened upon a hidden from view and obviously not advertised public pool! Only 2 euro and we are in! We scored a cool pool afternoon and a spot in the shade!Read more

    • Day 8

      Destination Porte de Lima

      May 21 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      We left Quinta da Canceila at 9:40 am, After an awesome breakfast of ham cheese bread, yogurt, really good coffee and fresh fruit with oranges from their own trees, and of course, some kiwi. It rained up until lunchtime. But it wasn't horrible. Everything is so green and smells so good here right now. We did a lot of off the main road walking. We saw sheep, a horse, chickens, ducks, and some spiky little hairy thing that ran through a field. At one point, we came upon a Portuguese woman offering us apples and bread. However, we just had lunch, so we had to politely decline. I asked if I could take her picture. And she smiled very big and said Sim, which means yes in Portuguese. We saw many of our fellow walkers along the way to Ponte de Lima. We arrived at our destination at about 4:00ish. Our hotel was right on the Lima River. After we both took showers, we went downstairs and had another awesome dinner. Our next destination is Gandra Agualonga in San Pedro de Rubiaes. We are tired, we feel good, and the wine at dinner hit us hard!
      Boa Noite🌙
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