Bouça de Baixo

9k👣 5Z

Today's route was only 13.9km/8.9 mi.s, but my blisters are so sore, I decided to give them a break. I swaddled them in Compeed and hikers wool and wore sandals all day. The biggest help was the taxi ride 🚓 from Fernanda’s albergue with Hélder (silent H). Talked immigration and got a Portuguese lesson as well: Os meus pés doem. My feet hurt. 🤣🤣

Fernanda is a bona fide Camino Angel - even has her picture in Brierly's book! It was he who encouraged her to charge €30/night, as running it as donativo was not covering expenses. She called the taxi for me, and then was chatting it up with this guy about folks in town before she identified me as "the nice lady, a very nice lady" who needed the ride. 🤣🤣

Hélder gave me some background on the town as we got closer: celebrating its 900th anniversary next year, first town chartered in Portugal, statue of founder Dona Theresa. Once at the medieval bridge, I walked across in the misty rain to the church of São Antonio. Saw the Bom Caminho statue of St. James, and then explored inside the church. Walked back across the bridge to the plaça where I found a good covered spot for sketching at a café. With my galão and pastel de nata, I was all set.

Just about finished the sketch when there was A&E walking towards me, who were soon followed by Mel and Joe! We had some tuna empanadas and bebidas, and set out uphill to find our guest house.

This place is GORGEOUS, with dark wood furniture and glass chandeliers. Isabella is a great host, and got us all oriented to where to find the laundromat and a couple of places for dinner.

I promptly fell asleep and never heard Joe leave with our laundry in hand. We set out for dinner, and I realized still how much my feet hurt.

It's disappointing. I didn't come all this way to taxi across the country. Only 2 more days in Portugal too! So maybe I can try to walk a bit tomorrow. But I will definitely be calling Hélder for a lift over tomorrow's 400m climb and drop down into Rubiaes. (Another albergue and communal dinner tomorrow!!) I sure hope my blisters heal quickly.

On the way to dinner, we stopped in at a farmácia where I worked really hard to describe in Portuguese which Compeed I needed for my blisters. Once rung up, the pharmacist said to me in perfect English, "That will be €..." I had to laugh. 🤣🤣

We ate at a place named after São Nicolaus... with all the associated artwork. It must have been a banquet hall for weddings and such, but we had the place to ourselves! The salad & fish (hake) were excellent, and we even got pudim (flan) for dessert. Started dreaming of our next adventure together, even if it means it's an art trip for me and a walking trip for the others. 🥺Read more