Portugal
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    • Day 40

      Douro Valley

      April 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      We woke up to a cloudy, overcast day for our journey east, up the Douro Valley. Amongst low cloud, the first stop was Amarante, where the local market was in full swing.

      We followed the river, with it's steep banks lined with terraced vineyards, and stopped in Pinháo for lunch. There were 2 river cruise boats in dock, but they must have been out wine tasting, as the small town was very quiet.

      Rui made some calls to fit us in for a tasting at a winery that made table wines as well as port (many only make port) and we visited Quinta do Bomfim for a very relaxing afternoon of tasting on their wisteria covered pergola overlooking the Douro River.

      Accommodation tonight is in Peso da Régua where we had dinner at a non-touristy restaurant (ie not on the waterfront). The staff spoke no English (the same amount as our Portuguese), so we had much laughter communicating our order. The staff always bring out olives and bread at the start of the meal - they are not complimentary, but added to the bill unless you send them back - and tonight we also received a mystery bowl... of chicken gizzards. And they were quite tasty!
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    • Day 12

      Lamego to Mesao Frio (30 km)

      September 19, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Today was a 5-star day. Down to the Douro from Lamego, always on untraveled roads or dirt paths (though I bet at least 80% of today was on asphalt). When I got to Peso da Regua, which is a busy commercial town right on the river, I had a few kms along the water till the start of some tough ascents. The views were gorgeous, even though the Douro was out of view till the last few kms. It was a hard steep ascent and I was lucky that a woman in a village was out feeding her birds, so that I could ask her for water. She was very sweet and said she’d pray for me.

      The vineyards are still bright green, and white houses with orange tile roofs are sprinkled throughout. The hills extend in all directions and at all angles. Most are planted with grapes, but there are a few patches of olive trees and even - gasp - a few eucalyptus. The last four or 5 km into Mesao Frio were on a very untraveled road with spectacular views of the river up and down. I have been to the Douro four or five times as a tourist, but I have to say I have never felt as overwhelmed by the beauty of it all as I did while walking in it all day

      The contrasts are so stark. There are huge modern wineries with gleaming stainless steel vats. There is an elevated highway that seems to fly over the hills. There are lots of high voltage transmission lines. Peso da Regua is busy noisy city with a lot of business going on. But almost all day, I was walking through tiny villages where most of the houses are boarded up or in ruins, or on narrow paths between stone walls, or through a few beautifully restored estates offering wine tasting. And in at least six or seven of the vineyards I passed, there were crowds of people picking grapes by hand. I didn’t see any machinery at all, just people stooped over picking or carrying buckets of grapes on their heads.

      Lucky for me, the rain that was forecast never fell. Tomorrow we’ll see. Right now I’m sitting out on my balcony with a view down over the river and all is right with the world.
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    • Day 22

      Douro Valley

      May 15, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      This is the spectacularly beautiful heart of the wine industry located up river from Porto. The scenery is so extraordinary that the 1st 6 pictures all show it. They are taken from various perspectives: from the deck of a traditional river boat to high on the hillsides on both sides of the river. The views are considered to be some of the best in the world.
      The 7th picture is of Pinhão, often thought of as the center of the district. This was taken from the traditional boat.
      The last 3 pictures were taken at Quinta do Seixo. A quinta is a farm or vineyard where, in this case, the grapes for local wine and port are grown. Both table wine and port are produced. And there is a small olive oil industry, too, using olives from the trees separating quintas.
      I'm told that many of the producers here still crush the grapes in the traditional way, by foot. At Quinta do Seixo, crushing is done robotically in the vats in the 8th picture. The mechanism is visible at the rear of the picture. The 9th picture is some port aging in oak barrels in their cellar. The last picture is the Sandeman logo. I'm told that the silhouette is intended to reflect both Spanish and Portuguese tradition as the business began with sherry in Spain and expanded to port.
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    • Day 2

      Portweinregion

      June 26, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Heute steht ein Tagesausflug auf dem Programm. In diesem Stopp besuchten wir die Portweinregion 🍷

      Interessant fand ich, dass die Trauben der roten Portweine hier noch manuell zerstampft werden. Das findet so im September/Oktober rum statt und dauert ca. von 21:00 - 1:00. Das sei lustig und immer ein schönes Fest. Interessierte Mithelfer sind vom Weinbauer herzlich eingeladen 😁Read more

    • Day 69

      Übernachten in Peso da Régua

      April 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Nach den Tagen am Atlantik fahren wir weiter nach Norden, diesmal durch den Geopark Arouca. Eins ist uns schon beim Durchfahren klar: das ist ein interessantes Ziel für die nächste Reise in Portugal.
      Hier nur Stichworte: die Brücke 516 Arouca - weltweit längste Fußgänger-Hängebrücke, Wanderwege, Flussbadestrände am Rio Paiva und Rio Vau, interessante Geologie - der Geopark ist seit 2009 als UNESCO-Welterbe anerkannt, Kajakmöglichkeiten, historische Dörfer und ehemalige Minen.......
      Die Straßen bis zum Douro und am Douro entlang sind anstrengend, kurvig, bergig, schmal.
      In Peso da Régua angekommen, können wir einen letzten Platz am Douro ergattern - gut 50 Wohnmobile drängen sich in den kleinen Ort, der zwar keine besonderen Sehenswürdigkeit zu bieten hat, sich aber als Basis für Ausflüge am und auf dem Douro gut eignet.
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    • Day 8

      Pinhão-Porto / Lamego

      October 5, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Lamego? Ein Wallfahrtsort - für mich als Konfessionslosen nicht eben motivierend. Die morgendliche Fahrt ist jedoch Teil des Ausflugspackages. Wir besichtigen die Wallfahrtsstätte Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. Glücklicherweise fährt uns der Bus hoch hinauf zur doppeltürmigen Kirche. Von hier führen 700 Stufen an Kacheln, Brunnen und Skulpturen vorbei zurück ins Stadtzentrum. Christine wählt den Lauf über diese Treppen - es ist ihre Wallfahrt mit dem lädierten Knie! Als Entgelt kaufen wir unten hervorragende Pasteis da nata.
      Vor der Rückfahrt des Busses zum Schiff besuchen wir noch die Kathedrale auf dem Hauptplatz - nichts Besonderes, jedoch mit einem schönen Kreuzgang.
      Es war der letzte von vielen aussergewöhnlichen Ausflügen und wir verabschieden uns von Reiseleiterin Tanja und Fahrer Manuel. Beide haben einen sehr guten Job gemacht!
      Den Nachmittag verbringen wir auf unserem Balkon und auf dem Sonnendeck der Miguel Torga.
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    • Day 8

      Tag 9 Bragança - Peso da Régua

      July 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Morgens früh fahren wir los, die Fahrt dauert knappe 2 Stunden und verläuft reibungslos. Der Stellplatz ist super, kostet inkl. Strom Ver- und Entsorgung nur 3 Euro. Dem Fluss entlang spazieren wir ins Dorf und machen uns schlau für morgen. Abends wird Gegrillt.
      Die Temperaturen sind um einiges höher als in den Bergen, ca. 37 Grad
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    • Day 6

      Relax, pray, eat, drink !

      August 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      So langsam geht unser portugiesisches Abenteuer zu Ende. Wir beginnen den Tag sehr relaxed am Oberdeck. Bei einem angenehmen Lüftchen zieht eine wunderschöne Flusslandschaft an uns vorbei. Quintas, Hänge mit Weinreben und Oliven Plantagen.
      Auf Grund des höheren Durchschnittsalters der Gruppe beschließt "The wild bunch" etwas für das Seelenheil zu tun. "Man weiss ja nie.."
      Der nächstgelegene Wallfahrtsort ist Lamego. Also nix wie hin..
      Von der Hauptstraße in Lamego führt eine eindrucksvolle barocke Freitreppe mit 686 ( oder so) Stufen auf einen Hügel, auf dem sich die Rocaille-Wallfahrtskirche befindet, die der Nossa Senhora dos Remédios gewidmet ist.
      Nach kurzer Abstimmung wurde beschlossen die Kirche lieber von hinten zu entern und so fuhren wir den Berg hinauf. Nach innigen Gebeten und ersten Erleuchtungen wollten die Weiblichen Teammitglieder noch die Kathedrale besuchen. da die festgesetzte Zeit zum Rückzug relativ kurz war bezog Karl der Aufklärer einen vorgeschobenen Beobachtungsposten in einer nahe gelegenen Bar. Will der Lone Ranger erkundete die steilen, engen Altstadtgassen und den Weg zum Kastell. Sylvia die schöne und Schwester Theresia beteten für die ganze Truppe währenddessen im Kreuzgang zur Nossa Senhora da Assunção.
      Dann Rückzug zum Schiff und frisch machen zum Gala Abend.
      Excellente Drinks und leckere Speisen waren der verdiente Abschluss dieser Mission.
      Und als Abschluss gelang es uns noch einen Brandsatz zu zünden. Wir wollen ja Spass haben !
      Mission accomplished.
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    • Day 33

      Quinta da Pacheca

      October 16, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      After a fabulous breakfast (best of the tour) we got on the bus to return to Regua where we had a tour of the Quinta da Pacheca winery with Eduardo, followed by a tasting. We started off with a tour of the grounds and a bit of history about the winery. It is a beautiful property that has been very well maintained. There is a 5 star hotel and restaurant at the winery, and there are large wine barrels that have been made into stand alone rooms that you can sleep in among the vines. There is also a resident artist who has produced a number of pieces of art out of wood.

      The wine estate was established in 1738 and was run by a very competent woman, D. Mariana Pacheco Pereira. She had lost her husband and decided not to remarry and to run the vineyard herself instead.

      In 1903 the property was acquired by D. José Freire de Serpa Leitão Pimentel. The new owner carried out the first major replanting. The vineyards were divided by grape varieties, separated by wide paths to facilitate the work. The grape varieties then used were: Bastardo, Tinto Cão, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca for reds, and Códega, Malvasia Fina, Malvasia Conrad’s, Cerceal, Donzelinho and Viosinho for white. So, quite a few varieties!

      In 1916, with new vines, the grape harvest increased which required the construction of new cellars and new stone tanks.

      In 1971 the second big boost was given by D. Eduardo Mendia Freire Serpa Pimentel, who replaced the older vineyards and started selling table wines. For several years, Riesling, Sauvignon and Gewurztraminer were tested and in 1971, 5,000 vines from each of these varieties were grafted.

      The vineyard manually stomps about 70% of the grapes. The tanks are made of granite and are about 100 years old:- 12,000kg of grapes produces 9,000 litres, which drains into fermentation tanks. Stomping happens for 3-4 hours, usually in the evening as the temperature drops. Eduardo said that if you decide you want to stomp grapes, be prepared to have purple feet for a couple of days post stomping.

      Wine remains in the tanks for seven days to ferment, whereas port only ferments for three days. There are four types of port - white, rosé, ruby and tawny. Port is aged in barrels and can be aged for 60+ years. Ruby can only remain in the barrel for 6 years.

      For our tasting we tried the Pacheca Reserva White, Pacheca Reserva Vinhas Velhas red, Pacheca White Port and the Pacheca Tawny Port 20 Anos. My favourite was the white port, which is served chilled. Eduardo also told us about a drink - Porto Tonica - which is white port, tonic water, ice and sliced orange, a very nice drink and would go down well on a hot day.
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    • Day 168

      Douro Tal und Kulinarik

      April 28, 2023 in Portugal

      Am späten Vormittag schaffen wir vier es dann doch uns von unserem "gefühlt" neuem Zuhause zu verabschieden. Unsere Gastgeber wollen kein Geld annehmen - wir verpacken 200€ in ein Geschenkset aus BANFI Rotwein aus der Toskana und Weißwein aus der Pfalz und sind berührt so tolle Menschen kennengelernt zu haben.

      Unser heutiges Ziel erreichen wir nicht ganz, da uns ein wunderschöner Ort im Dorou Tal dazwischen kommt. (Peso da Régua)

      Wir beschließen hier zu bleiben, gehen Nachmittsgs bei 27 Grad schön ne Runde durch den Ort und beschließen Abends im ,"Castas e Pratos" Essen zu gehen - mhhhh - was Feines für uns Gourmet- Schnäutzchen.
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