Portugal
Viseu

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    • Day16

      Lamego

      April 21 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Santuario de Nossa Senhora dos Remedios. Got it? Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies.
      We visited the city of Lamego today. The big attraction is the hilltop Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, which dates back to the 18thcentury. The city, however, dates back 1,000 years. The sanctuary is 600 steps above the city square. Sadly, we were not able to walk all 600 steps as some sections were under repair. Overall a beautiful setting.
      Our last picture from this group is the morning view from our stateroom on the boat. Moon view no extra charge.
      Linda and Shirley were learning how to paint tiles this afternoon while we travel back toward Porto, where we will disembark on Saturday.
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    • Day13

      Quinta do Tedo

      April 18 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Today we took a drove to a family owned winery, Quinta do Tedo, in the Douro River Valley. Their speciality is port wines. The setting for this winery is idyllic and we had a perfect day for our visit.
      The reaction to the wine was mixed, as I believe Linda and I like ports a bit more than Shirley and Mike, our travel buddies.
      The winery is mostly set up for local distribution, but they will ship. They have recently signed an agreement with a US distributor, but in reviewing we saw that the distributor's prices were double the local price!
      At this winery they still stomp the grapes with their feet. Visions of "I Love Luvy"?
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    • Day267

      Parque Fluvial da Rede am Douro

      March 24 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Heute kam ich (dank der Kirchenglockenlautsprecher) zeitig in die Gänge. Die Chance auf freie Plätze im Waschsalon. Das klappte schon mal gut.
      Dann kamen viele kurvenreiche und schmale Straßen durch die mit Wein bepflanzten Hänge. Ich kombiniere: Wein braucht Sonne und Wärme - hier muss schönes Wetter sein! Und so war es auch. Immer entlang des Flusses Douro bis zu einem Platz am Fluss. Den ganzen Tag kein Regen, dafür kam die Sonne zeitweise durch und das tat so gut! Also einen Kaffee gemacht und dann kam das Unheil in Form von Arbeitern, die das volle Programm Motorsensen, Laubbläser und was sonst noch krach macht auspackten und zur Tat schritten. Bei dem Staub und Lärm half nur noch abhauen.Read more

      Traveler

      😬

      3/24/22Reply
       
    • Day5

      Mida teie siis joote?

      November 26 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Sõit portveini piirkonda Duoro Valleysse algas sellega, et pidime rehvirõhku käima kontrollimas (kuskil mägede vahel), sest armatuurlaud muutus korraks vilkuvaks jõulukuuseks ning samuti oli meil täpselt 0 liitrit klaasipesuvedelikku autosse pandud 😑. Sõit kulges pidevalt Eneli kiunumise saatel, et küll me oleme liiga kõrgel, küll on tuul liiga suur ja puhub selle punni tee pealt ära, kui ka lausetega, et küll on ilusad vaated (ainult altpoolt vaadates, mitte kõrgel olles). Duoro Valley on täis veiniistandusi - veini nautlejatele ilmselt paradiis, vaated super ilusad ja nii nad räägivad, et ka vein väga hea 🤷 Külastasime ka meie mõnda veiniistandust kus saime ülevaate seal istanduses tehtavatest veinidest 🍷.
      Veetsime enamuse aja vaateid nautides ning sõidu peale läks ka omajagu aega.
      Õhtul läksime Porto linna avastama. Kas asi oli selles, et laupäev täna, aga väga palju rahvast ja sagimist.
      Homme alustame sõitu natukene allapoole tagasi ja ülehomme peaksime oleme juba Lõuna Portugalis.
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      Traveler

      Ja mis on Portos oluline toit?

      Ei tea, aga siiani midagi head süüa saanud ei ole. Kuna varsti oleme lõunas, siis mis seal on head süüa? [Sander]

      Traveler

      Portos oli sardiin

      Okei seda me ei söö. Vähemalt mina :) veini küll proovisin ja oli päris hea. [Sander]

      2 more comments
       
    • Day225

      Wwoofing épisode 2 - Quinta do Rio Dão

      June 13 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

      Notre deuxième wwoofing, ... 🙄🙈

      On était aussi sceptique en arrivant qu'en repartant.

      Avant d'arriver, on a passé une après-midi reposante le long de la rivière Dão à quelques mètres de notre hôte. Paddle, baignade et repos à l'ombre des arbes. Un peu surprenant de payer 5e par tête pour accéder à l'eau, mais bon, on ne savait pas qu'un peu plus loin, il y avait des accès gratuits 😑. Au final, vu la chaleur, on était content d'avoir pu acheter de quoi s'abreuver.

      En fin de journée, nous avons repris le van pour les derniers mètres jusque chez notre hôte.
      Pour cela, nous avons emprunté un chemin des plus sinueux 🏔. Ça aurait dû nous mettre la puce à l'oreille. Mais non 🥲.
      On a donc eu quelques frayeurs en empruntant le chemin : tout juste la place pour un véhicule, un sol friable, des montées plutôt ambitieuses, des arbres et cailloux un peu trop près du chemin... Rémi l'a quand même fait avec maîtrise 💪😬.

      Sur le papier, c'était plutôt prometteur, une ferme avec des animaux, des ânes 🦓 pour des ballades, une hôte avec des enfants qui l'aident, une distillerie, les commodités nécessaires et la rivière à proximité pour profiter en temps off.

      En réalité, on a vite compris que la semaine allait être longue... 😬

      On est content d'être resté pour :
      - la nourriture 🍽
      Franchement, elle était excellente. Le premier jour, on a un peu flippé 😳. On s'était levé tôt (6h30), pour la chaleur, et à 10h, on avait des crêpes maisons trop cool pour le petit déj. Mais arrivé midi, notre hôte n'avait pas cuisiné autre chose... Donc, là, on s'est vu manger des crêpes natures pendant 5 jours midi et soir... pas réjouissant 🙄.
      Au final, Rémi a été clarifier les chose 😁. On avait une collation repas le matin que l'on pouvait prendre aussi le midi en autonomie et le soir, on mangeait avec notre hôte et des fois avec son fils.
      On a mangé différents plats cuisinés avec les légumes du jardin (petits-pois, patates, oignons, carottes, concombres, haricots) et les œufs des poules. On a eu droit à un delicieu cheesecake aux groseilles jaunes. Une première pour nous deux 😛. Et sinon, pas d'alcool pendant une semaine aussi, un choix de notre part après les folies des jours précédents 😬.
      Le dernier soir, on a goûté l'alcool de la ferme. Une eau-de-vie d'argousier. Cet arbre pousse à foison à l'endroit où on était garé et produit des fruits oranges qui ressemblent à un litchi.

      - les commodités 🛁🚽
      On dormait dans le van et c'était pas plus mal surtout quand on a vu le bloc sanitaire et le cabanon qui sert à accueillir des wwoofers. On se douchait plusieurs fois par jour avec la chaleur et les travaux que l'on faisait.
      Fun fact, l'eau vient de la source en hauteur. C'était un peu archaïque pour prendre une douche, surtout qu'on était dans le noir (l'électricité avait sauté depuis quelques temps... 🙄) mais c'était suffisant pour se rafraîchir et se laver au besoin.
      Flo a passé une bonne heure le soir de notre arrivée, et pareil le lendemain, pour nettoyer les douches et lavabos de toute la poussière et saleté accumulées, et par la même occasion pour faire fuir les nombreuses araignées 🕷 😅.

      - les tâches que l'on a faites.
      Elles ont été nombreuses et régulières. On n'a pas vu le temps passer, on a appris pas mal de choses et on a très bien dormi après 🤣. On a été utile, ça c'est sûr. Peut-être même trop 😅.
      On travaillait 3 ou 4h le matin et 1 à 2h après 17h. On était réveillé à 6h et on commençait à 7h après un thé et un café. C'était cool parce qu'à ces heures-là, c'est presque agréable d'être dehors 😀.
      On a désherbé dans le potager, trié du bois, donné à manger aux poules, pour Rémi en enterrer 2 qui ont succombés à leur âge ou la chaleur 😬, coupé des arbustes, désherbé et bêché un champ de maïs 🌽 (le plus long de toutes les tâches), rafraîchi sous des citronniers, fauché un champ, cueilli des petit-pois, des fraises, des oignons, déplacé du foin pour l'enclos des ânes, et enlevé les épines sur le toit du bloc sanitaire. C'était assez périlleux d'ailleurs puisqu'on était sur une échelle télescopique sur un sol pas droit, avec un râteau à feuilles et un balai à essayer de nettoyer sans se casser la gueule 🧗‍♀️🧗‍♂️.

      On était épuisé chaque jour, mais on était libre le midi, l'après-midi et le soir. On a pas mal dormi mine de rien. On pouvait aérer le van et dormir les portes ouvertes c'était bien appréciable. On n'a jamais autant profité des moustiquaires aussi. Depuis qu'on n'est plus en ville, on est envahi de mouches et de moustiques 🦟🪰. D'ailleurs, on s'est fait bouffer par ces derniers... 😖😤

      Du coup, pour cette semaine, on regrette un peu de ne pas avoir eu une hôte plus curieuse d'échanger avec nous. Les repas étaient plutôt silencieux et on a ramé pour faire la conversation. C'était pas un problème de langue puisque notre hôte parlait anglais 😓. Pour dire, elle ne nous a jamais posé de questions, ni sur notre voyage, ni notre van, ni même sur nous.

      Pour illustrer, une conversation avec Rémi.
      Rémi : "Vous avez une machine à laver ?"
      Annette après un moment de silence : "Oui"
      Rémi : ...
      Flo qui regarde : ...
      Rémi qui bug parce qu'il y a un silence un peu trop long : ...
      Rémi : "Est ce qu'on peut l'utiliser ?"
      Annette après un nouveau moment de silence : "Yes".
      Au final on a réussi à faire une lessive mais il aura fallu 2 jours parce qu'elle nous l'a coupé en plein programme à cause de la pluie 😢 (les panneaux solaires ne suffisaient pas à la production électrique instantanée).

      Bref, le contrat du wwoofing était respecté mais pas plus. Dommage que l'échange n'est été que dans un sens mais c'est le jeu. On a eu la chance de commencer avec une super première expérience la suivante ne pourra être que mieux du coup 😀 🤞.
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      Traveler

      Belle conclusion philosophique sur ce séjour 😉

      6/24/22Reply
      Traveler

      😊

      6/24/22Reply
      Traveler

      Je crois que je parle aussi bien anglais que votre hôte...

      6/24/22Reply
      Traveler

      Elle parlait bien anglais juste elle avait pas envie de faire un effort.

      6/24/22Reply
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    • Day10

      Sernacelhe to Beira de Valente (23 km)

      September 17 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Since it was a short day, I slept in a little and had breakfast after seven. Another very nice walk with beautiful sunny weather and cool breezes. High in the low 70s.

      Shortly after going through the first village, Vila do Ponte, the Caminho takes you up a steep hill. For some reason, when you are about a five minute walk up to the chapel on the top, the arrows take you off that route. No indication that there is a 15th century chapel and a beautiful view from up top. I had gotten a heads up from a friend, so I was planning to go, and it was definitely worth the five minutes of huffing and puffing to get up to the top.

      My surely not very original observation was that in the 15th century they built chapels on high places with privileged views, but today we build cell phone towers.

      After the descent from the chapel comes the asphalt stretch. Fortunately soon after the nucleus of A Rua there were detours off the main road. These were great, usually on a dirt path between stone walls. On either side of the walls were vineyards and fruit orchards. There were lots of people out working in the fields, and I got a lot of ”bom caminho”, which surprised me.

      I have it on very good authority that under EU regulation, anything growing or hanging in the right of way is fair game for public consumption. So I had a sampling of apples, figs, and little incredibly sweet purple grapes.

      The town where I would have stopped is in festas, so absolutely nothing was available. Luckily, about 3 km away, there is a pilgrim albergue. It looks very nice, is in the old school building, and I’m waiting to see if the guy in charge will show up. I told him I would probably arrive around 2 PM, and that’s about what time it is now. So hopefully I won’t have too much of a wait.
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      Traveler

      The grapes look tempting 😋 .. a lovely walk for you.

      9/17/22Reply
      Traveler

      The dirt road, walls and fruit are so lovely. The Albergue looks great from the outside. The “bicentennial” marker made me laugh. Ongoing Bom Caminho!

      9/17/22Reply
      Traveler

      I loved that cross built into the wall

      9/17/22Reply
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    • Day24

      Eigentlich

      October 25, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Eigentlich wollten wir in die andere Richtung fahren, aber da waren uns zu viele Wolken. Also umgedreht und frei Schnauze der Sonne entgegen. Unterwegs tolle Aussichten und die Stadt hier gefällt uns auch. Mal sehen wie wir wieder zum Wohnmobil kommen.Read more

    • Day10

      The albergue in Beira Valente

      September 17 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Just so you know that I did in fact get into the Albergue, I thought I’d write a quick follow up with a few pictures. I got a phone call from the hospitalero Paulo. It turns out he was in the Algarve but wanted to tell me where to get the key. It was a totally hilarious conversation – my bad Portuguese, a generally bad connection, but one very patient man. I did finally get the keys which were on a hook in a very cleverly hidden place. Can’t tell you where, though. 😀

      The next step was to get inside, and there were two different doors to be opened. More conversations in my broken Portuguese. Finally once inside, the last task was for me to turn on the gas to heat up the water for the shower. Being a dumb American who never turns gas on or off, I had a hard time following his instructions again. But I am happy to report that it all worked.

      Next topic was my dinner. He had told me in a WhatsApp that I could get dinner at the restaurant Paulo Ferreira. I told him that I had walked through town and hadn’t seen a restaurant, so I was wondering how far away it was. Thankfully after about eight or nine tries, I understood that what I was hearing as Tay-K was actually “take away.” I didn’t really understand what he was saying, but I knew it was something about 8 PM..

      And at 8 pm, an association member showed up outside the albergue and drove me to a Restaurant that had take away. I got some pulpo salad and chicken on the rotisserie. No vegetables anywhere in sight.

      I have to confess that I would not have even thought to stay in this Albergue had it not been for the fact that all of the accommodations in the town 3 km earlier were full. This is because it’s their harvest festival weekend.

      This is a beautiful Albergue in the old school house. Such undeserved kindness.
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      Traveler

      Such *deserved* kindness. What you give out, you get back. Really loving these posts, Laurie - they are such a wonderful window into a camino I may never walk, given my long list.

      9/17/22Reply
      Traveler

      Wow - a most beautiful albergue 😍. Looks like an equiped kitchen (if you’d known you were planning to stay there ); and do I spy ‘beverages 😉 on some on one of those shelves?. Congratulations on working out the gas !

      9/18/22Reply
      Traveler

      How absolutely kind to go to that length to get you in and settled!

      9/24/22Reply
       
    • Day11

      Beira Valente to Lamego (27 kms)

      September 18 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Since I was expecting this to be about 20 km, I did find myself mentally dragging at the end. But it was a good day. The Camino has been rerouted to take us past the monastery of St. Anthony in Ferreirim. And I think I lost the camino somewhere near the hamlet of Britiande. As did the guy whose tracks I was following. By the time I realized I hadn’t seen an arrow in a while I just decided to forge ahead since I was on a main road going into Lamego. But whatever the reason, 20 km was actually 27. And 630 m is more ascent than I was expecting too. Well, I guess it’s just good warm-up for tomorrow’s stage, which is a little harder than today’s.

      There was more asphalt on this stage than any other, most of it concentrated in the last third. But there were still plenty of stretches through vineyards, apple orchards and pine forests. I saw my first statue of our Lady of Fatima, which is kind of surprising since she is definitely a very popular figure in Portugal. I walked over an unusual medieval fortified bridge, and I had a long rest with shoes off outside the Ferreirim convent. There was a mass going on and I could hear a lot of singing. A lot prettier than the baroque altar, IMHO.

      I got to my residencial, which is right around the corner from the cathedral and was recommended by several friends, at about 2:30. I’ve got my routine pretty much down to a science —shower and wash dirty clothes, put on clean clothes, and then head out to see the sights.

      I didn’t really like the cathedral, but at least it was close by. Next I walked up to the castle, or what’s left of it, for some good views and a visit to the medieval cistern. Then up to the sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remedios, which I am told has 686 steps. Without a backpack it was a breeze! More baroque but this one seemed less drippingly over the top. And the stairs up are pretty, with tiled scenes of the Virgin’s life — the design is just like Bom Jesus outside Braga.

      Sunday night restaurant pickings are usually quite slim. But there seem to be a fair number of tourists so I should find something.
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      Traveler

      I can see why the Cathedral wasn't to your taste...that Baroque...! The chestnuts are gorgeous, though, aren't they - no matter what the season. I hope you found a decent meal!

      9/18/22Reply
      C Clearly

      "I am told has 686 steps. Without a backpack it was a breeze!" If you say so, Laurie!

      9/18/22Reply
      Traveler

      She never complains …. 686 steps after finding the final 7klms was unexpected. No moss grows on Laurie. Well done.

      9/19/22Reply
      Laurie Reynolds

      So much easier to go up those steps than ascending yesterday. A shower and no pack are miracle workers.

      9/20/22Reply
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    • Day12

      Lamego to Mesao Frio (30 km)

      September 19 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Today was a 5-star day. Down to the Douro from Lamego, always on untraveled roads or dirt paths (though I bet at least 80% of today was on asphalt). When I got to Peso da Regua, which is a busy commercial town right on the river, I had a few kms along the water till the start of some tough ascents. The views were gorgeous, even though the Douro was out of view till the last few kms. It was a hard steep ascent and I was lucky that a woman in a village was out feeding her birds, so that I could ask her for water. She was very sweet and said she’d pray for me.

      The vineyards are still bright green, and white houses with orange tile roofs are sprinkled throughout. The hills extend in all directions and at all angles. Most are planted with grapes, but there are a few patches of olive trees and even - gasp - a few eucalyptus. The last four or 5 km into Mesao Frio were on a very untraveled road with spectacular views of the river up and down. I have been to the Douro four or five times as a tourist, but I have to say I have never felt as overwhelmed by the beauty of it all as I did while walking in it all day

      The contrasts are so stark. There are huge modern wineries with gleaming stainless steel vats. There is an elevated highway that seems to fly over the hills. There are lots of high voltage transmission lines. Peso da Regua is busy noisy city with a lot of business going on. But almost all day, I was walking through tiny villages where most of the houses are boarded up or in ruins, or on narrow paths between stone walls, or through a few beautifully restored estates offering wine tasting. And in at least six or seven of the vineyards I passed, there were crowds of people picking grapes by hand. I didn’t see any machinery at all, just people stooped over picking or carrying buckets of grapes on their heads.

      Lucky for me, the rain that was forecast never fell. Tomorrow we’ll see. Right now I’m sitting out on my balcony with a view down over the river and all is right with the world.
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      Traveler

      Laurie, so breathtakingly beautiful. Reminds me of La Ribeira Sacra, codos de Belesar y el Rio Sil. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.

      9/19/22Reply
      Traveler

      What a fabulous day!

      9/19/22Reply
      Traveler

      Oh my goodness, what beautiful photos! Glad you had good weather for it as well.

      9/19/22Reply
      7 more comments
       

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Distrito de Viseu, Viseu

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