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Graça

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    • TravelerEurope 2023
      1
      Day 8

      Alfama: Our 'hood

      April 29, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      We lived in the very atmospheric area of Alfama with a confusing maze of narrow streets, alleys, and staircases.. Although our accommodation had indicated access to an on site laundry, they advised it was too busy right now for us to use it but there was a launderette in the neighbourhood. It had 3 washers, for variable loads and costs. We waited 30 min to use the small one, 30 min for the wash and 15 minutes for the dry - a significant time investment. While there, numerous tuk tuks with tourists went by and they all stopped to point out an alleyway across from the launderette, there would be a photo taken and off they would go. We bought a beer, stood at the door and watched the street scene go by just like locals! Alfama would not be everyone's cup of tea - the hill with irregular steps, the garbage cans (and smells, would be worse in the hot summer) which seemed to always be overflowing (no recycling!) The empty beer bottles and broken glass were sad to see and recycling at least these would benefit the neighborhood by keeping it much tidier and help some of those living there who must just be barely getting by.

      We personally enjoyed it as it really is an old medieval place by its nature. However, the lack of consistent internet really put us behind on recording our personal travel notes!      Read more

    • TravelerPortugal, Morocco and Spain
      Day 12

      Coimbra

      April 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      The train trip took 2 hours heading north to Coimbra, a small university town. It was only half a day here and already we have fallen in love with the city. We visited the old church built in the 12th century and updated through the 15th century with tile and art with Moorish and Spanish influences. It was clearly well taken care of and revered as it was in quite good shape for such an old building. The new church (although also very, very old by North American standards) was beautiful, but churches give me the creeps sometimes. All those depictions of a dead guy hanging from a cross by nails in his hands and feet plus the absolute misery imposed by the Catholic Church on people all over the world and in Europe. I can feel it in the walls of them.

      We are staying in an Airbnb situated on a narrow pedestrian street. Everything from here is either up or down a long flight of stairs along corridors packed with little shops or quiet residences. The colours and balconies dressed with hanging laundry make is feel like a real city as opposed to a tourist town.

      The university makes for lots of political graffiti and students yelling, carousing and even barfing in the streets. I’m thankful for the vibrancy but the roving drunk lads, not so much.

      We have eaten quite well on this trip sharing great wine and traditional Portuguese foods. So far I have had goat, chicken, beef, lamb, grouper and several amazing vegetarian meals. The food has been great and the service has been very friendly. Even with my knowledge of Spanish, the menu items are usually a mystery. Portuguese is a close cousin of Spanish so I can often read the signs at museums and historical markers but I still miss a lot.

      Tomorrow we have another day in this incredible town to explore more…      Read more

    • TravelerPortugal Vaycay
      Day 6

      Lisboa 2.0

      September 23, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Der Elevador de Santa Justa ist der einzige senkrechte Aufzug Lissabons im öffentlichen Dienst und Wahrzeichen der Stadt. Die über 100 Jahre alte Stahlkonstruktion verbindet die beiden Stadtteile Baixa und Chiado.
      Der Elevador de Santa Justa in der portugiesischen Hauptstadt Lissabon wird auch Elevador do Carmo genannt und ist der wohl berühmteste Aufzug Europas und Wahrzeichen Lissabons. Er befindet sich im direkt im Zentrum von Lissabon und verbindet den Stadtteil Baixa (Unterstadt) über eine 45m lange Strecke mit höher gelegenen Stadtteil Chiado und Barrio Alto (Oberstadt).

      Unser Lieblingsladen (neben dem LIDL) ist der Ale-Hop in Portugal. Wir waren insgesamt in 4 oder 5 Ale-Hop‘s und haben immer wieder etwas neues gekauft.. vor allem Brillenketten 😁      Read more

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    • TravelerEurope 2023
      Day 9

      Day 9 Overview

      April 30, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      Bought makings for breakfast and lunches; some challenges using the stove but by the end had figured it out - why are European appliances so difficult to understand? The baked good is called "Queque" pronounced "cake" and our bakery told us that it is what Portuguese usually have along with a coffee for breakfast. This one was a mildly sweet orange one, basically a rich muffin - likely no fibre!

      Home for our last night in Alfama, one more dinner to soak up the atmosphere, we had baked Portuguese sausages with onions and carrots, the last of the Calem Tawny Port and chocolate. It's going to be hard not to be gaining weight on this trip!

      Bus across town to Belem. Pleasantly warm day, and by using the bus a bit, a total of 14,745 steps.      Read more

    • Matthias ToebbensPortugal - Lisboa y Algarve
      Day 1

      Ankunft im AirBnB-Apartment

      July 31, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

      Lissabon (portugiesisch Lisboa) ist die Hauptstadt Portugals sowie des gleichnamigen Landes-Regierungsbezirks Distrikt Lissabon, sie ist mit knapp 600.000 Einwohnern sowie mit 2,8 Mio. Einwohnern im Großraum Lissabon (Stand 2019) eine der größeren Städte in der Europäischen Union. Der Distrikt Lissabon hat 2.963.272 Einwohner, die Metropole liegt an einer Bucht der Flussmündung des Tejo im äußersten Südwesten Europas an der Atlantikküste der Iberischen Halbinsel. Außerhalb der Stadt Lissabons erstreckt sich zwischen Cascais und Estoril eine Reihe von Stränden am Atlantik.Read more

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    • TravelerPortugal
      Day 8

      Es wird lauter..

      June 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Guten Morgen aus Lissabon ☀️
      Es ist erstaunlich, wie die Stadt so langsam aufwacht. Die Nacht war zwar recht spät zu Ende. In unserer Straße ist einiges los, aber gegen 2 oder 3 Uhr hat man plötzlich nix mehr gehört. Bis heute morgen als die ersten Sonnenstrahlen durchs Fenster fielen. Dann ging es auch wieder unten los: die Rollläden ging nach oben, die Cafés öffneten, die ersten Busse und Autos fuhren vorbei. Ein Blick aus unserem Fenster: die Wäsche hängt noch 😅

      Wir gönnen uns einen Kaffee und gleich gibt es Frühstück 🍳🥞      Read more

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    • TravelerPortugal
      Day 8

      Tag 8, 0km, Ziel Lissabon erkunden

      June 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

      Unsere Fährräder hatten am Freitag mal Pause. Derweil ging es für uns in die Innenstadt. Wir stürzten uns ins Getümmel, schauten uns die bunt geschmückten Gassen an, fuhren mit einer der bekannten Strassenbahnen, die man sonst nur von Bildern kennt, fuhren zum Elevador de Santa Justa und zum Castelo de São Jorge. Den Weg legten wir zu Fuß zurück, natürlich nicht ohne diese auch zu tracken. Aber in die Gesamtwertung kommt die nicht 😀

      Was uns im Laufe des Tages immer mehr ausknockte war die Hitze. Die Luft stand förmlich, von unten heizten der Asphalt und das Pflaster ordentlich ein. Der erste Porto Tonic gegen Mittag hatte es dementsprechend in sich.

      Da wir nun die Hälfte des Urlaubs hinter uns haben, ziehen wir ein Zwischenfazit in Zahlen:

      Aufenthalt in Portugal: 7 Tage
      Gefahrene Distanz: 423 km
      Erklungene Höhe: 2026 m
      Gefahrene Zeit: 27 h 35 min
      Verbrannte Kalorien: ca. 9700 Kcal
      Flüssigkeitszufuhr (ohne Bier am Abend): 75 l Wasser/Tee
      Gegessene Pastéis de Nata: mind. 10 pro Person
      Reparaturen: 1x neuer Schlauch, 1x neues Schaltwerk
      Neuanschaffung: 1x Zelt, 1x Magnet (typisches Urlaubsmitbringsel für unsere Küche)      Read more

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    • TravelerThe Obis in PT
      Day 3

      Tag 3: Alfama 2

      August 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Bei unseren Streifzügen durch die Stadt kamen uns unzählige Tuk-Tuks unter. Erst dachten wir, es handle sich um einen Marketing-Gag, so ähnlich diese Duck Tours. Aber es wimmelte nur so von ihnen. Den Mädels war die Hitze langsam doch zu viel und das viele Gehen obendrein. Also kurzerhand ein Tuk-Tuk angesprochen und wir handelten uns (besser gesagt ich 🤣) eine rund 1stündige individuelle Tour für 70€ aus.

      Unser Tuk-Tuk war eher ein Elektro-Golfwagerl, aber es hat wahnsinnig Spaß gemacht durch die Straßen zu brausen und diverse weitere Spots mitzunehmen, die so zu Fuß mit den Kids zu weit gewesen wäre. Wir hielten beim Pantheon, brausten beim Mercado de Santa Clara vorbei, zum nächsten Viewpoint: Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. Von dort ging es wieder bergwärts bei der Kathedrale vorbei, durchs Baixa zum quasi gegenüberliegenden Viewpoint dem Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, wo wir bereits am Vortag waren. Und jetzt noch bei Rossio vorbei und ein schneller Abstecher fürs Foto beim Elevador de Santa Justa, bevor wir beim gewünschten Time Out Market enden.      Read more

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    • TravelerEurope 2023
      Day 6

      Arrival in Alfama Lisbon

      April 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      We picked up our left luggage at the Coimbra bus station and walked about 20 minutes along a flat thankfully shaded wide sidewalk to the rail station. All sidewalks are cobbled, primarily in the white granite (which is slippery underfoot than basalt when wet). Often not smooth and chunks can be missing so suitcase wheels taking a beating. In fact, just as much a beating for auto supensions on the cobbled roads here as you see on SUV ads off terrain in N America! The rail trip was smooth from Coimbra into Lisboa Oriente and then a switch to Santa Apolonia which is the closest rail station to the Alfama District in Lisbon was delayed. Doug was preoccupied about getting there by 1830h to pick up our Lisboa Cards 3 day transit and sight pass (as I edit this on our way out of Lisbon, it was a good deal; all our transport in the last 3 days was covered and the only sight we had to pay for were the two at Sintra which is out of town). We got there in time only to be told it had been closed all day! This despite the sign on the booth that it was open until 1900h and closed Monday/Tuesday and it was Thursday! Things appear quite random so even though there is convenience with organizing things at home on computer the reality may be different. The next challenge was finding our accommodation which did not prove easy even with Google Maps. We were prepared for the climb through the cobbled streets and steps. This is the area of town that was not destroyed by the earthquake that pretty much flattened and burned Lisbon on Nov 1, 1755. Alfama was the Jewish quarter and the Jews got blamed and persecuted as their area of town was "saved". The roads are so narrow that even Tuk Tuk taxis can't get through parts of it. Our door was almost hidden and we walked right past, but a kind local helped us find it. Down steps and up steps to a very cute flat with windows over looking the city. A bit warm as it faces West but did cool off when the sun left and we opened up the windows. Nice cooking facilities so we plan to save some $ as Mr. bean counter says we are over budget, Today's activities (exclusive of prepaid) including 35 EU at a local little grocery coming to $120 CDN.Read more

    • TravelerEurope 2023
      Day 45

      Late lunch in the Alfama

      October 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      We had been told about this little locally run Portuguese restaurant in the Alfama that had blown up on Tik Tok. We were told it was hard to get a reservation but I thought I would try and, what do you know, we were able to get a table at 3.30 pm. I know it was a little late for lunch and even early for a pensioner dinner, but we were on holiday and almost anything goes!

      On the way home from the LX Factory we got drenched, even with umbrellas, and so we had a little time to dry out in our apartment before our reservation. After changing into dry clothes, off we headed towards the Alfama district, which means lots of stairs and walking up hills. My glutes have had quiet the workout in Lisbon!

      We arrived at our destination, Taberna Sal Grosso right on time and there was already a line of diners waiting to get in. We had to wait a few minutes for the first sitting to leave, the tables to be reset and, finally, we were seated. The restaurant seats about 24 people.

      The menu was on a blackboard and quite extensive. We chose cod fish cakes, fried baby squid, eggplant with smoked yoghurt, an orange and almond salad and fries. It was all really delicious. I drank a Porto tonico and Ian had a Bock (Portuguese beer). We even had room to share a passion fruit crème brûlée and coffee. I love going to little local, family run places that are passionate about what they do. It was a lovely way to spend our last afternoon in Lisbon, as we were off to London on the following day.

      After lunch we decided to take one more stroll through the Alfama, which was just getting ready for the dinner crowd and those wanting to take in a FADO show. Ian and I had intended to see a FADO show on this trip but we just felt like a quiet night in and to stay dry (weather wise). It will be on our list for our next visit to Lisbon. We will definitely be back to this tremendous city.      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Graça, Graca

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