Portugal
Montedor

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    • Day 13

      Albergue Casa do Sardão

      April 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Sometimes you come across an Albergue that is too good to be true. We thought we found that last night at Casa do Carolina but tonight’s stay at Casa do Sardão is over the top and for the first time has required its own post. It is owned and operated by two guys; Hugo is local and Alex is from South Africa. The place they are running is the most serene place we have ever stayed. I asked Hugo for a job. I think he thought I was kidding but I don’t think I was. We may have found Heaven on Earth or at least Heaven in Portugal 🇵🇹Read more

    • Day 13

      Day 5 - Anha to Carreço

      April 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      What a special day (5) it has been. We walked a shorter day of 11 miles that took us along a wonderful path in the hills just a couple of miles from the beach. One minute we were walking on narrow paths through a quiet village then on a dirt path through eucalyptus groves and then crossed streams on bridges constructed hundreds of years ago. Portugal is a beautiful country and seeing it at 3 miles per hour lets you really take it in.

      After 10 miles we stopped for a coffee and some snacks and met the first 2 Americans on this Camino so far. It is interesting the difference in who is walking this Camino compared to our last. Many Germans, more people from Eastern Europe, but few from the States. It really has been great having Miguel with us, who just happens to speaks 5 languages 😀 We are constantly taking bets on where folks are from based on their accents.

      At the end of today’s walk we arrived at Albergue Casa do Sardão, heaven on the Camino.
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    • Day 6

      Castelo de Neiva til Carreco

      April 13 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      En ny dag og en ikke alt for lang dag på 21 km fra Castelo de Neiva til Carreco (fremdeles i Portugal). Det skulle imidlertid vise seg at dag ble både lektere enn lang og strevsom, men mer om det senere. Vi la trøstig i vei på Sanda Litoral stien, langs stranden. Det startet fint med en kombinasjon av vei og grusvei. Etter noen kilometer ble det frokost og snart var vi på¨vei videre, gjennom en fiskelandsby og ut i sanddynene. Løs sand er i utgangspunktet strevsom som underlag for gående med sekk og det skulle det vise seg å bli. Etter en kilometer eller så i løs sand støtte vi på en bekk med et heller vått områdde. Skulle vi vade eller skulle heltene snu og gå rundt våtområdet. Heltene snudde og det ble en ny kilometer tilbake i løs sand lyg over sanddyner. Trette ben, men like vel motivert. En ny stopp med kaffe og en kakebit, gav oss ny energi og vi la lystig i vei. Tim foran som kartleser. Problemet oppetid imidlertid når han glemte å lese kartet og det ble en kilometer frem og en tilbake. Etter hvert nærmet vi oss Viana do Castelo, en større by og hvor Senda Litoral og Camino da Costa også møttes. Jeg var lei av sand og bølgeskvulp, men det var ikke Tim. Han tok Senda Litoral og jeg Camino da Costa.. Jeg byttet ut sand med bakker og brostein (grove steiner fra romer tiden). Vi var framme ved Albergue Casa do Sardao. Begge slitene etter en lang dag, som ble nesten 30 kilometer. Varmt var det også, rundt 28 grader. Albergue Casa do Sardapo er et hyggelig sted. Vi fikk et rom med 4 enkeltsentre, med tykke og gode madrasser. Så er det kvelden og en ny dag venter. Hvilken sti skal jeg velge?
      Ps. Vannblemmer på tåen er stor og sint.
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    • Day 5

      Agucadoura til Castelo de Neiva

      April 12 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      En strevsom dag bør være overskriften for dagen. Det første bildet er fra torsdags kvelden, solnedgang med en liten smilende måne. Vi hadde en lang dag foran oss, 27 km fram til Castelo de Neiva. Tim er meget opptatt av kysten og langs kysten det bar, selv om stien langs kysten er 5 til 6 km lengre enn den tradisjonelle kyststien. Her trenge en liten oppklaring. Det er to alternative kyststier, som delvis er sammenfallende. Camino da Costa er den tradisjonelle , som delvis går en kilometer eller to inn i landet. Senda Litoral er alternativet som stort sett går langs stranden. For noen strekninger er den lenger en den tradisjonelle kyststien. Dvs. vi gikk 27, mens andre på den tradisjonelle ruten gikk ca. 22 km. Landskapet er rimelig monotont, men det er sikkert fordi jeg ikke er fult så opptatt av å se bølger fra Atlanterhavet. Alt var ikke kyst, det var også strekninger med skog og en hyggelig liten elv som vi fulgte. Ettermiddagen ble rimelig varm og når vi kom fram målte vi 27 grader i skyggen. En varm dag ble det. Albergue don Nausti er en spesiell plass, litt alternativ preget. Rommet vårt hadde 4 køyesenger, med Tim som snorket store deler av natten. Så var det morgen og en ny dag smiler.Read more

    • Day 61

      Tag 61: Vigo & Olá Portugal 🇵🇹

      September 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Unsere Nacht auf dem „normalen“ Parkplatz war (wie so oft) erstaunlich gut. Unser erstes Ziel für heute ist Vigo. Auf der Strecke versuchen wir vergeblich einen schönen Parkplatz mit Aussicht zu finden, um zu frühstücken 😌 Naja, dann halt in Vigo. Aber die Fahrt dort hin forderte insbesondere Leif als „Fahrer“ sehr. Es ist voll (Montag Morgen?! 🤔), hektisch und ein Parkplatz zu finden wurde zur Mammutaufgabe. Aber letztendlich finden wir einen Parkplatz, frühstücken im Bulli und machen uns zu Fuß auf den Weg zur Festung in Vigo 🏰

      Die Castelo do Castro ist insbesondere für eine einmalige Aussicht über Vigo und das Meer inkl. der Cies Inseln einfach perfekt. Die Cies Inseln hatten wir kurzzeitig auch für einen Tagesausflug ins Auge gefasst, allerdings ist das in der Nebensaison mit Registrierung/Genehmigung zum Besuch der Insel und Überfahrt nicht ganz so einfach 🙁

      Nachdem wir die Festung erkundigt haben, geht es wieder bergab ins Zentrum. Hier gab es allerdings nicht wirklich viel schönes, daher ging es gegen Mittag direkt weiter in Richtung portugiesische Grenze 🥳 Vorab noch einen letzten Einkauf im spanischen Supermarkt und dann sind wir da - in Portugal am Strand. Für mich sehr besonders, da ich zuvor noch nie in Portugal war. 😌 Aber auch Leif freut sich sehr.

      Wir genießen unser Mittag und die Sonne am Strand. Endlos weiter Strand, Wellen und Dünen. Kaum Menschen. So gefällt es uns ✨
      Wir finden 10 Minuten entfernt einen Strandparkplatz, der scheinbar zur Übernachtung genutzt werden darf/kann. Das machen wir dann natürlich direkt. Also auf zum Parkplatz und ab an den Strand zurück 😊 Hier genießen wir ein paar Stunden in der Sonne. Dann macht Leif Abendessen und ich gehe noch eine kleine Runde spazieren. ☺️ Dann essen wir gemeinsam mit Blick aufs Meer und spielen später noch.

      Wir sind ganz gespannt,
      was Portugal für uns bereithält. 🙃
      Realistisch können wir hier ca. 2,5 Wochen verbringen, damit wir die Rückreise entspannt gestalten können 🥳
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    • Day 7

      A beautiful day!

      May 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Wow! We've had a wonderful day's walk, a real 'camino' day. It began with a Prince chocolate biscuit for breakfast and ended with a delicious bottle of red!
      Our accommodation last night was very nice although we were all cold during the night, and not one of us got up to put the extra blanket on the bed 🙄. Our host was very helpful, giving us directions to rejoin the camino path which gradually led us uphill and through eucalyptus forests - cue more bird song and babbling brooks 💗.
      The paths we took were inclined but gentle and we were able to take it easy for the whole day, knowing we'd already booked our night's sleep at an apartment in Caminha.
      Our second breakfast (if you could count one biscuit as your first🙄) was a tuna roll for elevenses - I was hungry!!!
      It was onwards (and probably downwards by now) towards Caminha with another stop for dessert, which was supposed to be ice cream but ended up as a Pastel de Nata - very nice 😋.
      We walked for a few kilometres on the coast, which was fabulous. There was a good breeze that cooled us down and we even found a small herd of goats (a couple of them fighting over a female!), a flock of sheep and a few horsey things on the beach path!
      Caminha was on the horizon although, as usual, the last few kilometres were the longest 😩😅. A beer spurred us on, though, and we soon found our accommodation which is pretty fab! Beefburgers and chips for our evening meal rounded the day off perfectly. Well, perhaps not quite... Our host left us the most delicious bottle of red wine- I can honestly say I've never tasted anything like it! 🤗🤗🤗
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    • Day 4

      Schmerzen, Gefühlschaos und viel Sonne

      June 22, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Wie sehr können einen die Füße bitte schmerzen? Wer ist stärker - der Geist oder der Körper? Bin ich an meine Grenze gekommen?
      Fragen über Fragen und mittendrin Gedanken wie: Wer bin ich und wo will ich hin? Auf diese Fragen möchte ich versuchen Antworten zu suchen.
      Doch, dass denken wird immer wieder blockiert von dem Körper und dessen Unruhe die vom vielen Wandern kommt. Gar nicht so leicht, da mal nicht die Nerven zu verlieren.
      Das schöne beim Wandern auf dem Camino ist, dass man wenn man alleine sein möchte, alleine sein kann und wenn man wen zum reden braucht, man einfach den nächsten Pilger aufsucht und ein wenig mit ihm plaudert. Einfach entspannt und ganz easy.
      Heute bin ich in etwa 32 km gegangen, mal in der Stadt aber dann auch mal wieder an der Küste. Auf dem Weg zu meiner nächsten Herberge hatte ich tolle Gespräche mit einer Frau aus Deutschland und aus Tschechien. Mensch, waren die zwei flott unterwegs und das im gehobenen Alter 😊 den Abend habe ich dann in der wohl schönsten Herberge auf dem gesamten Jakobsweg verbracht. Ein Ort der Idylle mit viel Wein, Bier und einem nettem Pool 👍 bis morgen. Wandergrüße gehen raus 🥰
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    • Day 10–12

      Rest - Day 6/7

      April 13 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      This place was peace.

      I can’t explain all the reasons why. Maybe it was the sunsets, maybe the rhythmic lighthouse glow, the starry moonlit skies, the freedom of the animals, the wild meadows, the brook that ran through the land.

      Probably a combination. How can a place feel like home, but also lost.

      I was told if I found somewhere that I wanted to explore while on the Camino to stay, perhaps rest.

      While I need to rest, because of “that” time. The Camino synced me up perfectly with this place.

      And instead of exploring I was still.

      I found a flat rock in the brook, surrounded by meadow flowers, and with butterflies dancing and also the inquisitive dragonfly.

      I sat. I meditated. I listened. I laughed.

      I felt time slow and stop. And I felt my impermanence and I felt joy in presence. Rooted in complete simplicity. It was emotional to feel this again. Knowing this feeling exists for me.

      How I keep the feeling, I don’t know. But knowing it exists, is good enough right know.

      Tomorrow I return to the Camino…
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    • Day 47

      Carreço (21.2. - 23.2.)

      February 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      Carreço, Distrikt Viana do Castelo, Portugal

      Die Fahrt zurück an die Atlantikküste war sehr ruppig, aber trotzdem schön. Die Wettervorhersage war ebenfalls nicht optimal, da für die nächsten Tage Regen prognostiziert wurde..

      Die erste Nacht verbrachten wir direkt an der spanischen Grenze in Caminha, fuhren anschliessend jedoch direkt weiter nach Carreço, wo wir einen Stellplatz bei einer Jugendherberge des Jakobswegs gefunden hatten. Da die letzten Wochen sehr trocken waren, sah unser Camper etwas staubig aus und wir entschieden uns, ihn wieder einmal zu waschen. Ausserdem wollten wir auch den Reifendruck kontrollieren, rechneten aber nicht damit, dass die Pumpe kaputt war und unser Vorderreifen Luft verlor. Mit einem deutlich zu geringen Reifendruck (3.6 anstatt 5.5 bar😁) fuhren wir zur nächsten Tankstelle. Dort angekommen dachten wir zuerst, dass die Tankstelle überfallen wird, da zwei Autos mit laufendem Motor direkt vor dem Eingang standen, dennoch wagten wir uns an den Kompressor, welcher zum Glück funktionierte. Nach gut 15min kamen dann auch die Besitzer der "Überfallwagen" und machte den Weg frei.
      Den Abend verbrachten wir im Camper, da es relativ kühl wurde. Marion machte eine super Tortilla (auch wenn wir nicht mehr in Spanien waren) und backte sich zum anstehenden Geburtstag noch einen Schokoladenkuchen, da sie meinen Backkünsten nicht traute😊.

      Marion's Geburtstag begannen wir mit einem ausgiebigen Frühstück in der Sonne, da es zum Glück doch nicht regnete. Anschliessend machten wir einen schönen Strandspaziergang. Auf dem Rückweg kauften wir noch eine Flasche Rosé und Oliven für einen Apero. Kurz vor dem Campingplatz übergab ich Marion die Roséflasche, welche leider erst am Boden wieder halt fand. Als sie mir beim auflesen der Scherben helfen wollte, fiel ihr auch noch das Olivenglas auf den Boden. Somit war der Einkauf umsonst (resp. für nichts), wir konnten aber zum Glück noch auf einen Aperol zurückgreifen und den Tag bei einer Partie Mario(n) Party ausklingen lassen.

      Nun fahren wir weiter in Richtung Porto, wo wir das Wochenende verbringen werden.
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    • Day 8

      Fairytale - Day 5

      April 11 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Woke Up: Dias House, Anha
      Destination: Carraço

      Left the earliest yet (although still last one to leave). Ironically after having a room by myself I slept the worst. The tickle at the back of my throat kept me awake.

      At breakfast I asked the Lady (although needed to translate tickle - but that also didn’t convey the issue) if she had anything to help - thinking a strepsil or something.

      Instead she went and made me a homemade honey, lemon and water shot. But she was very strict I take it after I finish breakfast. It was lovely and the tender care she took in making it was hospitality at its finest.

      The walk back to the Camino, included a hill. Which was tough going. I caught my shadow and found it looking more like a pilgrim.

      At the top of the hill I saw Viana do Castelo.

      Lynda from the day before caught up with me and at the same pace, we descended and crossed the bridge together. A walking holiday for her, and conversation was largely Dubai retail market.

      A widely different conversation from most Camino conversations.

      Wanting more alone time. I said I wanted to check out a church and the Catherdral before going on. Which I did. Although my Ouvi battery fell from my pocket when readjusting my rucksack. So I ran back, and it was there!!

      The Catherdral was beautiful in design. And I lit candles for various people’s healing, including my own. As well as the on going peace of Mum and Grandad.

      Upon leaving, I saw a shop with items I’ve been looking for, including sunglasses. I also treated myself to a viser! Especially helpful - as I can keep my hair up (as retired as it may make me look).

      Leaving, of course, I bump into Tim and Lesley having lunch. So I stop and take a snack with them. We’re staying at the same place, but Lesley foot is hurting and they’ve spent the morning getting lost so they’re taking a taxi to the place.

      I pop into a pharmacy on the way out. For my cough and nose. They give me some antihistamines. They warn like with all it can make you a bit drowsy. And I said with the way my body feels I doubt I would notice a difference.

      I press on. Not realising the route will be more uphill. It’s residential for quite a while - not my favourite parts of the walk. However, apparently my antihistamine is kicking in, as I start to feel high AF. Luckily it’s a few minutes things, and the road is evening out in a countryside.

      An older German gentlemen pilgrim, Stefan, who passed me earlier appeared, after getting sidetracked, and we chatted for a while. We came to a village with a rock cross high on the hill, leading to a stream, that looked straight out of a fairy tale. Stefan realising that I’d like to stay - wished me fair well.

      The beauty of the Camino is everyone realises the Camino is personal. And we’re guests in each other’s walk. In each pilgrim there’s a story. But rarely are there goodbyes.

      I decided to stay until the next pilgrim would arrive, but one never did. It felt like a dream.

      Once I left. Another pilgrim came upon me, Emma from France. Heading for the same destination we walked together.

      This is the most rural place I’ve stopped so far. But I loved the sound of the albergue. 500 years old, stone walls and animals.

      Grabbed some food however from the little shop before heading to it. In case there’s nothing.

      On arrival, Tim and Lesley, who are also with Mike and Beth from yesterday are here!! Gave me a fanfare arrival, laughing that I’d “picked up more people”. It was a core memory, though. The happiness in greeting folks, who are sharing the walk but understanding each other’s journey. Arrival at an albergue after each day is a personal and literal milestone.

      The evening. Included the best sunset. And some beautiful memories and realisations.

      Body check:
      O blisters (healed).
      O arm bruises (rucksack)
      O cough (allergy/climate)

      Little things/highlights:
      O morning honey drink
      O surprise waterfalls/streams
      O evening/night-sky
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Montedor

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