Santarém (São Salvador)

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    • Day 8

      Santarém to Azinhaga - 23km

      May 11, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      What a difference a good night's sleep is!
      I breezed right through today's walk.
      After leaving Santarém the trail went through miles and miles of vineyards.

      I saw the first Camino marker that wasn't also a marker for the route to Fatima as Santarém is where the two paths diverge. What I didn't see was any other walkers.

      The walk today was almost entirely through agricultural areas with fields ready for planting, fields with seedlings just breaking through the ground, and some more mature plants too.

      While it was warm, it wasn't as hot as yesterday, and there was often a cool breeze.
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    • Day 29

      Yasmina and I get a treatment

      March 21, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      I'd lie if I said I did not plan to have a 20kkm service somewhere in central Portugal but to work out to this accuracy was pure coincidence.

      Anyways, Yasmina got new blood, filters, rear brake pads, new tires and a thourough clean. I can't thank the guys at Bluemotor in Santarem enough to have arranged everything for me. I recommend them highly for any Yamaha rider needing any sort of service in this part of Portugal. Thanks Pedro and the team!!

      In the meantime, I visited the barbershop for the first time in my life. Very happy I decided to do so rather than cutting half of my head off with a razor in shitty hotel lighting :)

      Sadly, we're both going back into the mud shortly. But not before I hop over to.... well, it's a surprise.
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    • Day 32

      My first "zero day". Hostel in Santarem

      May 4, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      I have decided to give my body a break, a chance to recover by taking my first "Zero day". No walking today!
      Just sitting in cafe reading and writing!
      This morning I discovered my first open church. There was a service taking place with 15 persons, present. all over 70 years old. One of the congregation, a gentleman of I'm sure 80, was reading the mass out of the midst of the congregation, very unusual!
      In connection with my audiobook from yesterday, I reflected on how crucial "faith" is, in whatever form it may come, to give purpose to life.
      Here old people were coming together to pray and find some kind of hold, a fix point, in a world gone totally crazy.
      Spirituality, on the one side, is found in shared ritual between people, as was the case this morning, but it is also found in the solitude experienced in nature when walking great distances.
      On this topic I bumped into this film on ARTE TV
      One of the quotes of a 'first nation" Indian is wonderful:
      "Let the river run its course, it knows where to go. It will bring you to the source.
      Keep your energy for the turbulence of the rapids.

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    • Day 4

      History, art and food

      October 19, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Here I am in Santarém, with a humongous blister on my foot, having a lovely time sitting in the plaza drinking fiercely strong Portuguese coffee...waiting for the Cathedral to open.

      The pastry shops in this town are just amazing. One small almond tart (a “celestial”, and it was), I could not resist.

      I love the blue tiled art works on railway stations and other public buildings - a great way of teaching as well as bewitching the eye.

      The cathedral was lovely. A great painted ceiling. I also visited some very nice churches. And a museum with a few things that amused me.

      My time being short and not wanting to destroy the rest of the walk with a serious injury, today I took the train.
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    • Day 6

      P2D3 to Azinhaga 40/198 km

      August 3, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

      I slept well (despite the barking dogs). After small breakfast I've got my stamp, paid for the night (20+5e) and set off for Santarém - again 15km through tomato fields as well as some vineyards. In Santarém in a tourist office I've booked a room (or bed) in the next possible accommodation Casa da Azzancha in Azinhaga. So another 26km in the heat. I hope there will be some bars on the way, otherwise I don't know how can I survive it.
      With the last rests of my strength I reach a cafe in Vale de Figueira (26km) and have some beer, coke and water. Still 14 km to go, maybe less, if I find some shortcuts.
      The heat was like in hell. The shortcut weren't there, I've tried one and ended in a corn field, there were no place to make a break, the only freshening was once from the land improvement pipes.
      After some beer, water and coke in Pombalinho I managed the last 2.5 km and arrived eventually in Casa da Azzancha (45e - single room).
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    • Day 12


      May 26, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      The roads of England even the motorways have far too many pot holes even on the M25 and to much traffic when compared to the roads of France it is a real pleasure driving in the countryside. We avoid the cities whenever possible. Spain started off very good but as we got south of the mountains the roads deteriorated to the point where we were dodging broken surfaces, holes and dimples. Portugal has by far the best roads best signage and most rescue phones on motorways. Hardly any traffic at all on the Portuguese motorways it is what England must have been like in the sixties. Petrol prices are similar in England and France, they can be 30 cents a litre cheaper in Spain. Portugal has the highest petrol price at around 1.7€ per litre.Read more

    • Day 12

      Santarem - antiquity hitting hard times

      May 26, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      We arrived in this once proud stronghold of Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Visigoths, Moors then Christians after 210 miles of driving.
      Well done Peter and little car.
      Actually just picked Santarem as has easy to reach hotel and we think we can get to Algarve tomorrow from here.
      So not expecting anything we stroll (up hill) to town. Not a great tourist town but it was very interesting. Who discovered Brazil? He is buried here in the ancient church of Grace....not Vasco da Gama .... Pedro Alvarez Cabral! OK the swots among you knew that.
      There is a lovely market building and lots of ancient properties in varying stages of decay...think the vandals have been busy. Lots of empty shops shut in the main streets a testament to the success of online purchasing or a decreasing population. However it was beautiful the main square all cream and white against a dark grey sky.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Santarém (São Salvador), Santarem (Sao Salvador)

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