Portugal
Santo Ildefonso

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    • Day 3–4

      Porto/Barcelos

      April 15 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      Wonderful morning in Porto. Delicious brunch at the Majestic and then some shopping. We then took the train to Barcelos (1 hour ride) to meet our guides, Piero and Miguel. Had a delicious mango smoothie on the platform. We checked into our hotel, had some down time, a team meeting and then a guide, Hugo, gave us a walking city tour. We then had a terrific dinner in the restaurant next to the hotel. Salad, Roast chicken, cabbage, and an amazing dessert (so many choices and I chose well - petite chocolate cake piece with ice cream. Now to bed. We start our first day of walking tmrw. Love traveling with these terrific friends.Read more

    • Day 2

      Welcome to Porto

      April 9 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

      This morning we arrived at the Aeroporto Francisco Sá Carneiro and a beautiful bluebird day in Porto- the sun was shining and it looked like a perfect day for exploring the city. Joy! After a short metro ride to our hotel, we dropped our backpacks and headed out into the sunshine. We were struck immediately by an imposing church nearby and made a visit to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Lapa, the neighborhood church. Stunning! We walked towards the old town and happened upon another beautiful church (there would be many today! ) and made another visit. This one was the Igreja de Santissima Trinidade and again was so lovely- full of beautiful statues, art and a quiet reverence and elegance. There were many other pilgrims out today as well as many local residents since the weather was so lovely. Such fun to hear many different languages spoken all around us! The city of Porto is so pretty and the flowers around are beginning to bloom. We walked by colorful houses with tile façades, terra-cotta roofs and wrought iron balconies interspersed with shops and restaurants and small cafés. Every so often the cityscape would open to reveal miradouros (viewpoints) of Porto- so breathtaking! We had lunch of fresh grilled mackerel and potatoes and a little wine then strolled along the Cais de Ribeira, the riverfront promenade along the Douro River. As we walked we saw the colorful barcos rebelos (flat bottomed boats) and enjoyed people watching. After awhile we were able to visit the Church and Museum of Sâo Francisco (also known as The Gold Church) which is dripping in gold leaf and a National monument and UNESCO World Heritage site. It dates to 1383 and is so sumptuous- no pictures allowed but we were amazed by the lavish woodcarvings, the retables, side altars, chapels, sacristy and catatombs- what a treasure! We climbed the escadas do Codeçal (a monster set of 240 steep stairs) and made our way up to the Sé or Cathedral of Porto. It’s high on the hilltop and fortress like and austere but once inside the beauty of the architecture and especially the blue and white tiles really shines. Here we were able to purchase our credentials to document our travels as we walk this ancient pilgrimage- the girls purchased shells for their backpacks too. As night was approaching we made our way back down to the river, crossed the Dom Luis I bridge and enjoyed a flight of port wines followed by a sunset dinner near the river before heading back to a hot shower at the hotel. We walked over 15 miles today and tomorrow we’ll begin working towards our goal - hiking the Camino de Santiago!Read more

    • Day 20

      Porto....die Perle im Douro ❤️

      May 15, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Was ist Portugal ohne Porto ❤️

      Die wunderschöne Stadt am Meer und am Douro zieht uns total in den Bann !
      Um möglichst viel zu sehen ziehen wir es vor, zur Abwechslung Mal in den typischen Touribus zu steigen ! Eigentlich sind wir lieber per Bike unterwegs , aber im Nachhinein waren wir echt froh, dass wir vom Campingplatz per Bus in die Stadt gefahren sind ! Wir hätten mit Sicherheit kein Spaß gehabt ! Es war ,wie befürchtet, die Hölle los 😜

      Aber wir haben es keine Sekunde bereut....die zweitgrößte Stadt Portugals muss man einfach gesehen haben 💕
      Read more

    • Day 7

      Porto Day 1

      March 28 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Today we got up and went straight to the train station to leave Lisbon for Porto. It was about a 4 hour train ride. Once we got here we checked into our hostel. Which is so cool. Its inside of a historic train station that's regarded as one of the most beautiful train stations in the world. It's covered in 22000 individually painted tiles. All the different murals depict different historic events that have happened here, from victories in war, to royal weddings, and the evolution of travel. We were very indecisive for dinner but we finally found a traditional Portuguese restaurant where we had Portos famous dish, francesinha. It was so good but you'd definitely get heart problems if you ate this too often. We were too tired to do much after clogging up our arteries so we just walked around for a while exploring. We found a nice place to sit for a beer, turned out to be the most expensive beers ever. It was 17.5 € for 2 beers. Long story short, we won't be going back there. After drinking what should have been a 5€ beer, we found an old church that had a light show inside. I don't know if a mini rave in the church was in their plans when they built it, but the church always gets their money one way or another lol.Read more

    • Day 3

      Recovery Day - Sort Of

      September 16, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Walked a whopping 6.5 km today 😂 Hey, I haven't started walking my Camino yet, OK? Don't JUDGE me!

      While I was having the free continental breakfast (read: rolls and corn flakes, which sounds like the name of a band now that I think about it) in my hostel I discovered a free, 3-hour tour of Porto. Last time I watched a show about a 3-hour tour it didn't end so well.

      This, however, was a walking tour and not a ship tour. I am grateful for our guide, Gonzalo, who provided some amazing information on the history of Portugal as well as suggestions on where and what to eat. He was hilariously amusing! He was also very quick to intervene when a man came RUNNING full speed at me while I was taking some video of a hazing ritual for the local university students. The man did not want me to take video because there were minors in the group. The problem here is...they were LITERALLY walking down the middle of a public street. In a tourist city. EVERYONE had their phones out! The guy was dressed like a Harry Potter student, cape and all. After Gonzalo inserted himself between us and "diffused" the situation - mostly by yelling back and forth in Portuguese with the other guy while both of them went red in the face - he told me J. K. Rowling lived in Porto for a couple years, and that's where she'd gotten the inspiration for the Hogwart's uniform. He was still huffy as he told me the story (we were on a 15-minute break when it happened).

      After the walking tour, which ended at the Duoro river, I headed back to Sé Catedral to pick up my pilgrim passport. This looks like a regular passport, except you collect stamps from all the places you go along the Way - cafes, hostels, stores, churches, whatever. The municipal albergues don't let you stay there if you don't have a pilgrim passport.

      I walked up WAY too many flights of stairs on the way up there. I was up ABOVE the roofs of the houses. My legs hurt and I had to stop twice. Not because, y'know, I was out of breath or anything. Just to look at the river. Really.

      When I finished, my back and legs hurt so you can IMAGINE my chagrin and the big-ass face-palm I did when I saw a freaking elevator at the top. 🙄

      The Cathedral was beautiful from the outside but I opted not to take the tour. I just went in to buy my passport and shell (the symbol of the Camino, worn by all pilgrims while they walk their Way) and wandered around the city for a bit, looking at all the local vendors when I returned to the river. So many things I wanted to buy, but there are too many miles ahead of me to carry them all so I will save my money for the shell tattoo I'm going to get when I reach Santiago de Compostela.

      For dinner I walked to a little cafe down the road, where I had a simple meal: tomato, mozzarella and basil sandwich and - DRUMROLL, PLEASE - pastel de nata. Pastel de nata, for those who are wondering, is an mouthgasmic experience. It's some kind of egg custard tart. It sounds underwhelming but I assure you that once you have one you will move to Portugal, as I am now considering doing 😂

      It was beautiful weather at dinner time, so I sat outside to eat. I watched all the people go by; some were dressed very nicely, probably scurrying to catch the metro home while others were dressed casually and meandered around.

      The worst part about sitting outside is the smokers. I know people smoke all over the world. I just wish the smoke wasn't so INVASIVE - it STICKS in your hair and clothes. Kind of like a really bad fart, except it wasn't your fault but you're still stuck with it.

      So despite having showered and changed before dinner, I had to repeat the process when I got back to my bunk. What irritated me most was that I had to do more laundry. It's all done by hand and hung carefully on the underside of the upper bunk to dry.

      All in all, not a bad day. As I come and go in the hostel I'm watching the "leave box" where pilgrims leave things behind when they're done. I'm hoping someone will leave walking sticks but so far, no luck. Just three umbrellas, which makes sense because it was pouring rain here last week.

      ***Today's expenses (I keep losing receipts so I'm going to start documenting here):

      €6 for lunch and coffee
      €3 for gelato
      €8 for dinner and dessert
      €4 for Camino and shell

      Total: €21

      Euros are almost in parity right now with the USD, so roughly the same cost in dollars.
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    • Day 42

      Francesinha sandwich

      June 14, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      We had to try this sandwich that Porto is famous for.
      It's made of thick bread, bologna, fresh sausage, sausage, beef steak, ham, cheese and a tomato-beer sauce.
      We went for a long walk before and after eating them. 😄Read more

    • Day 2

      Arrivée à Porto

      September 11, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Le vol vers Porto s'est plutôt bien passé, Félix et Sam ont réussi à dormir un peu, les chanceux! Cependant, belle nuit blanche... Nous sommes atterris vers 7h30 heure locale avec pas trop d'énergie, mais heureux d'être arrivés! Aussitôt sortis de l'aéroport, on a pris un taxi pour aller porter nos bagages à notre hébergement. L'appartement n'est pas encore prêt alors on ne peut y rester pour faire la sieste, pas le choix d'aller explorer les environs!

      C'est une magnifique journée, avec un confortable 17 degrés, bien humide. La température monte si bien que vers 11h on est rendus à 23 degrés. On marche dans un quartier où on trouve plein de boutiques. On n'achète rien, mais juste pour voir l'endroit ça vaut la peine. Plutôt typiques comme rues.

      On retourne ensuite en direction de notre logement et on arrête au parc au passage pour que Sam puisse, enfin, jouer dans les modules! Ensuite, c'est l'heure de prendre une sieste bien méritée pour tout le monde! Au réveil, on part marcher vers le Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar, c'est le monastère que l'on voit de notre appartement, qui est juste de l'autre côté de la rivière. On doit traverser le magnifique pont Luis I, lequel est bondé de gens qui se promènent comme nous. C'est magnifique !!!

      Plus tard, nous descendons aux abords du fleuve Douro pour marcher sur la promenade. Nous longeons les petites ruelles, en descendant. Quelques petites automobiles passent dans les rues. C'est tellement étroit !! Mais on voit même un autobus y passer lorsque nous sommes arrivés en bas. Finalement, possiblement que même en camper van c'est possible de passer par là! On y voit même un tournant tellement serré où l'automobile s'y reprend à plusieurs reprises pour finalement tourner. Avance, recul, avance, recul, on envoie la main et on part !!

      Arrivés tout en bas, on marche un peu sur la magnifique promenade en question puis on retourne dans la ruelle par laquelle on est arrivés pour aller souper, il commence à être l'heure pas mal! Un excellent petit resto style italien avec pizza/calzone et des pâtes faites avec amour. Ah oui, et de la sangria pour notre grand plaisir! La journée se conclut sans surprise par la marche de retour. On voulait prendre un taxi, mais il faisait tellement beau qu'on s'est décidé à marcher. Après tout, ça évacue la sangria aussi !!

      Voilà qui conclut notre première journée à Porto. Quelle magnifique ville ! Nous sommes contents d'avoir pu profiter du beau temps parce qu'ils annoncent de la pluie pour les jours suivants. On croise les doigts, mais au moins on a bien profité de cette première journée malgré la fatigue.
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    • Day 44

      Z Santiago do Porto

      October 18, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Trudno było pożegnać się z Santiago, także spędziliśmy resztę naszego czasu chodząc wokół katedry lub w katedrze. Nadchodzili kolejni pielgrzymi, którzy siedzieli, leżeli lub stali na placu w szczęściu, ale jednocześnie nie wiedząc co ze sobą zrobić. My nadal czujemy się bardzo podobnie i czekamy aż wszystko się ułoży.
      Po obiedzie trzeba było ruszyć dalej, czeka nas podróż autobusem do Porto gdzie czekają na nas Dosinek z Arusiem. Droga minęła w miarę szybko i około ósmej wieczorem byliśmy razem ciesząc się i nie wierząc, że udało się spotkać. Wieczór prawie przy świecach (Magno i białe wino), później kolacyjka i dzień pomału się skończył. Jest bardzo pięknie. Arus obiecał że jutro pogoni nas po górzystym Porto😁
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    • Day 45

      Porto

      October 19, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      Nigdy nie należy wierzyć w prognozy szczególnie dotyczące pogody i tak więc zamiast deszczu mieliśmy dużo chmur i trochę słońca. Spędziliśmy piękny dzień chodząc sobie po Porto bardzo górzystym mieście. Na początku była biblioteka Lello dla miłośników Harry Potter kultowe miejsce. Piękna perełka wciśnięta między domami w starym mieście, potem było Clerigos, kościół i wieża z widokiem na miasto, polecam tylko dla tych co lubią wieże. Następnie udaliśmy się w dól w kierunku rzeki zatrzymując się na przepięknej stacji kolejowej Sao Bento gdzie użyto kafelek ceramicznych aby stworzyć wiele ciekawych obrazów, które opowiadały historię z przeszłości, również unikalna perełka.
      Arus,który ma dar poznawanie miasta w sposób bardzo szybki i praktyczny poprowadził nas skrótami koło pomnika Henryka żeglarz do kościoła Sw. Franciszka, który nie pełni już funkcji kościoła ale można w nim zobaczyć cud portugalskiego kunsztu barokowego, co prawda ołtarz główny jest w renowacji ale wszystkie nawy boczne po prostu zapierały dech. No i do tego katakumby .
      Później kolejnym skrótem wynalezionym przez Arusia tym razem w postaci taksówki wodnej przeprawilismy się na drugą stronę rzeki Duero gdzie udało się nam spotkać z naszymi przyjaciółmi z Camino Asią i Kamilem. Troszkę jedzenia i degustacja Porto wprawiła w wszystkich w dobry nastrój. Dzień zakończyliśmy winkiem doskonałym obiadem.
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    • Day 22

      Last night

      September 20, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Sitting on the rooftop reflecting on a marvellous experience. So many memories, so many fantastic pilgrims and new friends. Now it's time for home and really looking forward to getting back now Night Night All ❤️Read more

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