Portugal
Vila do Conde

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    • Matasinhos to Vila do Conde

      September 20 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Rainy start to the day but I started even later and happened to miss it. I managed to get my suitcase down the stairs thanks to arnica rub and KT tape.
      I wandered a bit trying to find my way to the Camino but my 2 different map apps weren’t synching. I tell ya, the streets here are crazy curvy with no discernible pattern. And they stop for pedestrians!
      I stumbled on this plain looking Cathedral, but inside was total art. Plus a covered dead body. I think. Check the pictures.
      I did finally find a Camino marker. Whoot. Jump for joy. Well raise the arms, remember the knee.
      Soon it was wooden boardwalks for hours. Pretty… nice… ok… enough already.
      I made very slow progress and stopped a bunch. They had benches quite often. Cafes were over priced. I knew I had to get a cab at some point, so after 6 hours, I bargained with myself. Make it to the Roman salt tanks or walk until 4 pm, whichever comes first. Salt tanks won.
      Bolt is the local version of Uber. Easy peasy. Although it took the driver 30-40 minutes to get me to my hotel. I never would have made it.
      Anyway, safe and sound and ready for sleep.
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    • Day 4

      1st Day Trekking

      October 6, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

      Started from Matozinhos today up to Vila do Castell. About 12.5 miles in all. It was an easy- ish 1st day with no significant climbs. I did get stuck having made a rookie mistake. I agonized for weeks on how to carry what I needed for the day. I had decided on a hydration pack and a Fanny pack and had done several walks with this combination which worked fine. Then I saw a bigger waist bag with pockets for water bottles and thought that would be the better way to go. So I ordered it but never tried it out before I left. So when i put it on today- fully packed- well, if you’ve seen the scene with Reese Witherspoon in “Wild” you get the idea. My lumbar spine was not happy. So- I have pulled out everything that wasn’t absolutely necessary and I’m gonna try to fashion some shoulder straps to help with support. We’ll see how it goes tomorrow.
      I was in and out of cell reception so could not follow through on my listening plans. I saw and talked to a couple of other pilgrims today. A young lady from Switzerland and Jerry from Dublin- also a recent retiree. Jerry has been adventuring since he retired. Went half way around the world on a cargo ship and has also completed parts of the northern route.
      So far I am really enjoying traveling alone! There is something really freeing about doing what you want when you want.
      It will be an early night for me. Didn’t sleep well last night and want to be fresh for the walk tomorrow!
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    • Day 4

      Finding Our Way

      October 19, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

      Visiting beautiful churches and discovering cultural heritage sites all while following the shell and yellow arrows kept us busy again today as we hiked over 16 miles. (The legs are definitely tired today! ) Hard rain and winds whipped us up the coast all morning but by this afternoon as we veered a bit from the coast, the weather calmed down and we were treated to a few sunny afternoon hours in the masseiras or local garden plots and a eucalyptus forest. We passed big soccer training field and a golf course in the middle of what seemed like nowhere! The rain welcomed us again as we were approaching our hostel in Esposende but by this point we expected it , popped the ponchos back on and kept walking!!
      Today we visited and were awed by many beautiful old churches. We were reminded of the reverence given to our God in olden times by the faithful Portuguese who in this area made their living from the sea. We were waved at and encouraged all day- some people even stopped their cars when they passed us in the rain to give us their best wishes- it is humbling to be the recipient of such kindness.
      We passed some of our new friends as we walked including Brent from San Diego, Nicola, Fergus and Lewis from Australia and Theodore from Germany who is escorting 20 rambunctious high schoolers- they kept our spirits up and today was another good day- now to sleep and get ready for the next stage! Thanks for reading and following our Caminho- pray for us and we send prayers and love to you all!
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    • Day 5

      Vila do Comse to Sao Pedro de Rates

      September 11 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Morning!

      Waking up in Sao Pedro and remembering that I forgot to post about my travels yesterday. 😬

      It was a shorter walk to Sao Pedro but an adventurous one. We decided to follow the aqueduct, the second largest in Portugal—so we had to walk hard to find the yellow fleshas. Tess and Bill led the way since they had the maps, and the rest of us followed. So much corn!

      Much of our walk was along city roads and the drivers here drive FAST will no concern for pedestrians. I felt like I was on the bike, as I would often yell out, Car back! 😂

      We stopped for coffee after a few miles…
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    • Day 2

      Tag 1: 34 km & endlich Vila do Conde!

      September 6, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Wir sind wirklich verrückt. Beschließen einfach 34 km am ersten Tag zu laufen. Wer macht denn sowas?! 😂
      Rückblickend war es zwar wunderschön und wie haben jetzt schon viele kleine tolle Dinge erlebt, aber die Füße...!! Es ist schlimm... Äußerlich gar nicht mal so übel, aber sie sind einfach nur 2 schmerzende Klumpen. 😂
      Es ist eine Wohltat sie gerade hochzulegen.
      Dabei hätten wir uns wirklich mehr Zeit lassen können, die Küste war einfach herrlich!!!
      Wir sind viel über Sand und Holzstege gelaufen und haben eine Miniflussüberquerung hinter uns. 😂
      Natürlich war die erste Mitpilgerin, die mit uns fast den ganzen Tag gelaufen ist aus München. 😄 Sie ist sehr lieb gewesen, aber unsere Wege haben sich in Labruge getrennt (km 23.5) weil sie lieber dort schon einkehren wollte. Hätten wir das mal lieber auch gemacht. 😄 Aber nein, wir hatten ja schon 10km weiter etwas reserviert. Leider ist es auf diesem Camino wirklich so, dass man nicht spontan irgendwo einkehren kann. Alles ist immer schon voll. Und weil alle reservieren, muss man leider auch reservieren um dann nicht zum nächsten Ort gehen (wo wahrscheinlich auch wieder alles voll ist) oder draußen schlafen zu müssen. Ich finde das echt schade, es nimmt einen schon ein Stück Freiheit wenn man (so wie wir heute) zu einem bestimmten Ziel auf Teufel komm raus gehen muss. Ich kenne das von meinem letzten Camino auch viel spontaner. Naja, egal wir sind ja Gott sei Dank noch (selbstverständlich im Dunkeln nachdem wir den Sonnenuntergang geschaut haben😄) angekommen. Wir waren übrigens die letzten und niemand in unserem Hostel hat die Strecke an einem Tag gemacht, alle haben sich 2 Tage Zeit gelassen. Wir sind echt verrückt...
      Im Hostel waren die Leute aber sehr freundlich und hilfsbereit, was uns auch wieder Kraft gegeben hat.
      Übrigens gab es heute den ganzen Tag über das magische Phänomen der "Unmöglichkeit sich zu velaufen". Jedes Mal wenn wir (wirklich nur!) 1 Sekunde stehen blieben um nochmal nachzuschauen wo es lang geht kam ein Portugiese oder eine Portugiesin und haben uns direkt!!! In die richtige Richtung geschickt. So schnell kann man weder auf das Handy schauen noch den Reiseführer rauskramen. Das ist so ein tolles und merkwürdiges Phänomen und ich hatte das genauso schon beim letzten Camino erlebt. Ich hoffe es bleibt so! 😄
      Das lustigste Ergebnis war heute auf jeden Fall der Fisch.
      In der ersten größeren Stadt auf unserem Weg Matosinhos wollten wir den dort sehr guten, frisch gegrillten Fisch probieren. Wir haben dann alle 3 irgendwie ausversehen eine Portion für 2 Personen gekauft und es war wirklich mit der größte und leckerste Lachs den wir jemals gegessen hatten. 😍 Das Problem war nur, dass wir kein Besteck dazubekommen oder dabei hatten.... 😅 Wir mussten also diesen mega Lachs, die Pommes und den Kohlsalat als Beilage komplett mit den Händen essen. 😂 Das war wirklich wild.... Wir sind aber extra wieder zum Strand zurückgegangen und haben uns ein ruhiges Eckchen gesucht um diesen Anblick niemandem zumuten zu müssen. 😄 Naja, so ist es eben manchmal beim pilgern....

      Orte: Porto, Foz do Douro, Nevogilde, Matosinhos, Perafita, Lavra, Labruge, Villa Chá, Vila do Conde
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    • Day 4

      Arrival at Vila do conde

      September 10 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 72 °F

      We made it! Dropped of the bags at the hotel, had a quick shower, and off to find a lavandería (closed😬). Settled on finding a place with alcohol for Bill and a burger for me. Best decision of the day! We feasted on edamame, dumplings, fries, and the best Wagu beef burger we’ve ever had. And sangria. Oh the mojito and watermelon sangria!Read more

    • Day 1–2

      Day 1: Porto to Vila do Conde

      September 15 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

      First walking day was a little tough. Started out from Porto Cathedral and took several miles and a couple of hours, winding through city streets before making it out to the coast to head north. There, we encountered throngs of people for the half marathon and volleyball tournament taking place. Very crowded!

      Finally made it through, but being a Sunday, the boardwalk and beaches were still very busy. We walked 14 miles, and after realizing we had completely miss-calculated the distance to our endpoint for the day, we called a driver (Bolt is the app) and let them take us the final 7 miles to our hostle.

      The beaches were gorgeous. At one point, there was a swimming pool built into the ocean! The beautiful lighthouse pictured is Farol da Boa Nova Lighthouse, near the outskirts of Porto.

      We reached our hostel, cleaned up and had dinner at a great little neighborhood Gastropub, just around the block from us. The food was delicious and included a salad with greens and a combo of fruits and vegetables I'd never seen mixed all together before. Hooray for new things. 🙂
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    • Day 13

      Day 1 Cycling Porto to Vila Do Conde

      May 18 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      We are starting our cycling trip today. The description of our day is as follows:
      DESCRIPTION
      You'll follow the Douro River as you leavePorto, following the seafront to the former fishing village of Foz. You'll then pass a
      lighthouse and couple of fortresses before reaching the town of Matosinhos, which
      claims to have the "world's best fish". Pass the fish market, and Leixoes port and cruise terminal, to reach the municipal market
      Alternate between cycle paths, tarmac roads and wooden boardwalks as you stay close to the Atlantic Ocean, passing
      several beaches. There are some industrial sections, especially around the Petrogal plant near Matosinhos but these are soon counterbalanced by nature reserves and scenes of local fishermen at work. Continue
      on to the attractive town of Vila do Conde. The ancient town, dating back to the year of
      953, is famous for its Roman Aqueduct and the Santa Clara Monastery, and it was also
      the main centre for Portuguese lace and has the Bobbin Lace Museum. It's also centered
      around an ancient shipyard and is full of historical and architectural interest. The Camino greeting between pilgrims.s is Buen (Spain) or Bom (Portugese) Camino

      We were given our paniers, bike locks, water bottles, hotel vouchers, our Camino shells to I dicaye we are pilgrims and our pilgrim passports to gather stamps from the hotels, restaurants and various stops last night at our meeting. We adjusted our bike seat heights a bit last night. This morning we got our luggage to reception for the pick up and transfer. We had a big breakfast again and made sandwiches and got some fruit for our lunches. We got ready to go and brought our panniers to the underground garage to place on the bikes. Unfortunately Andrew misplaced his lock key so one of the hotel employees cut his lock and he will get another tomorrow or next day. We Were ready to start and rain shower 1 began!!!
      It subsided within 10 minutes and we had decided to ride out o to the breakwater in front of our hotel to start our ride with a photo and Porto in the distance. It was a cloudy day. We began our ride out of the city. My helmet microphone wasn't connecting but we later discovered that Anthony was pressing the wrong button so we got me back up and chatting through the helmet Bluetooth.
      We followed the bike paths and in the city we had bike traffic lights where we had the green bike or red to stop at pedestrian crossings. We had a total of approximately 5 or 6 rain showers so we would get our hoods up under our helmets. We had a cafe and bathroom breaks, a ride over a draw bridge, a lunch stop at the beach, followed by a good rain shower, a little gift shop stop hosted by a woman and her husband who have walked the Camino and recognized a need for souvenirs and stamps and a WC stop for pilgrims. We bought a magnet and a Camino notebook and def. used the WC. We had stops to take jackets on and off, quick checks for route and ensuring we were going the right way. We have the Macs Adventure daily maps all set up to help us navigate our daily cycle right from hotel to hotel. It's great.
      The unfortunate thing is that our bike seats are extremely hard and narrow. They are uncomfortable, especially on the many cobblestones roads😦😲 We are going to see if the company has gel seats because tomorrow we have a 50 km ride and we can't imagine how awfulness going to feel. We will be doubling up on cycle shorts or rigging jackets up to sit on because it's that hard!!
      We saw the site of a plane that went down on the beach close to Vila do Conde, a few fun pirate and other vignettes in the photos. As we rode across the bridge I to the town of Vila do Conde we had a wedding g procession driving towards us with the bride and groom and everyone waving and honking their horns. The big building ahead of us was originally a convent, then became a prison and is now a hotel!! We got into the area of our hotel and locals were so friendly and helpful pointing us in the right direction even when we hadn't asked...they could see we were searching.
      We got our bikes stored, got showered, stretched and went to walk and see the town. We came across a.matket and sampled the chocolate cup filled with a shot of Jin ginjah ( cherry liquor). We walked to the river and took some photos then walked to a restaurant that had great ratings and reviews for their tapas. We arrived and there was a 30th birthday party going g on, but the owner invited us in to sit in a different area. We tried a variety of tapas ( fresh vegetable salad, cod croquets, garlic shrimp, a fired chorizo sausage, and jalapeno-bacon croquet). It was all so delicious. The owners were a young couple that were just so friendly, helpful and they ended our evening by giving us a shot of their homemade liquor with honey. It was really strong!! We had her sign our Camino passports because she doesn't have her stamp yet. She asked us to sign their comment board which we were so happy to add our complimrnts to. We said our thank yous and goodbyesand walked back to our hotel. We have been so grateful for evenings out at restaurants with amazing food and welcoming , friendly owners.
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    • Day 4

      Vila do Conde

      April 15 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

      A full sized day at 24km.

      We left Matosinhos at 8:30am and did 6km before stopping for breakfast at Cabo do Mundo. It took about 40 minutes to get out of Matosinhos and onto the ocean promenade.

      Most of the rest of the day was walking on wooden boardwalks over the dunes behind the beach with wonderful views of the ocean.

      Towards the end the sand had shifted to cover up the boardwalk so we had to slog through deep sand for a few stretches.

      The weather was sunny and perfectly clear with a cooling breeze, making for excellent walking conditions.

      We had lunch and a foot airing at Vila Chã, in a bar/bakery. Kev ordered a “Cachorro da Padaria” not knowing how big the thing was. With Dave’s help we did it justice.

      Then it was about 8km to Vila do Conde. We passed the very long and wide beach south of town where lots of surfers were enjoying the nice regular swell rolling in.

      We’ve checked in to Hotel Brazão near the centre of town.

      After getting clean and washing clothes we dined on some big prawns cooked in garlic, washed down with the house vinho verde. It was a tiny family run restaurant, Adega do Testas.
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    • Day 4

      Vila Do Conde to Esposende

      April 11 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      We left charming Vila do Conde with its flower filled parks, impressive aqueduct, monumental fountains and tiled chapels to walk 17.7 miles to Esposende- a long day! We hiked through the small towns along the coast and had so many people wave to us or honk their horns and call out, “Bom Caminho!” Such friendly people! We were back on the boardwalks again for awhile until we moved a bit inland and hiked still on boardwalks but over the masseiras or garden plots- we saw tons of onions being harvested. In Aqucadoura we passed old windmills and in Estella there was a huge soccer complex and golf course. It was hot so we had a late lunch and lager in a café and rearranged our socks and packs. We finished our day hiking through a eucalyptus forest which was cool and breezy and smelled so good! The flowers were vibrant and beautiful all over the paths today and lemons trees are bursting with fruit. Today on the way we met so many other pilgrims- this warm and pleasant weather is a boon for all of us. We met people today from France, Hong Kong, Japan, Dubai, Norway and even a couple of Okies from Enid! And tonight at supper (which was low key in the albergue dining room) we met Amanda from the Florida Gator Nation! 🧡💙 In Apulia a little lady named Lina (age 90!) stopped us to chat and direct us to the church- she was amazing and sweet to talk to us. So tired from the day and tomorrow will be another long day so I’m headed to sleep and dreaming about our adventures for tomorrow.Read more

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