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Scotland 2018

August 2018
A photographic adventure to the Scottish Highlands accompanied, undoubtedly, by rain and midges. How will I cope, where will I get to, how much water and midge activity will I be able to take?
Follow me to find out! Read more
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  • TravelerScotland 2018
    Day 1

    First Night in Scotland

    August 17, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Rob was a little late leaving on Thursday (16th) and the combined efforts of the traffic and the M6 meant Lancaster was the first overnight stop. He decided to stay at the Lancaster South services and upon arrival at the Travelodge was greeted with, "It's August and the schools are on holiday." Rob, being a complete Dumbo in these matters and with no experience of the English Education system, politely thanked the receptionist for explaining the lack of available rooms ... then left, making repeated tutting noises reminiscent of Skippy.

    A few phone calls later confirmed all options for a cosy B&B in Lancaster were used up so Rob was left to drive the local roads of the city looking for an available room until, at last, he was offered a room at the Inn. It had a promising name too: Premier.

    The next day, today of course, Rob continued his journey northwards but not before he set in place his cunning plan to check room availability at his destination, thus booking the last available room at a Lodge on the A85 not too far from Oban. This cunning plan was hatched because of what he knew would happen not too long after he left Lancaster. At the exact moment he crossed the border into Scotland it began to rain and it continued to rain for the rest of the journey to the Lodge. It rained lightly, it rained heavily, it was raining as he ended his journey, it was raining as he wrote today's blog and it'll probably rain while he sleeps. It's Scotland!

    It did stop raining for an hour or so just as Rob finished his evening meal and this allowed him to grab his tripod and camera to go to photograph a castle whilst standing in a bog ... that's an area of very wet land by the way, not the local public convenience. He was hoping for a miracle and some stunning light around sunset but you only ever get one miracle in any twenty-four hour period and finding a room at the Inn was probably it. He still took photos though but you may never get to see them because a ruined castle in dull light is not exactly the best way to start a photography trip. It's a start though and things can only get better.    Read more

  • TravelerScotland 2018
    Day 2

    B8074 Glen Orchy

    August 18, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Today turned out to have a water-based theme and began when Rob opened the curtains to confirm he was in Scotland - it was still raining! After breakfast he checked the room was available for another night then set off on a mini-road-trip - an anti-clockwise circular tour northwards encompassing Glencoe then returning south along the coast road.

    The first part of the tour was through Glen Orchy along a scenic 'B' road which was indeed very scenic and highly recommended should you ever find yourself in the area, especially in the Autumn it seems. The cloud hung low and the rain intermittent though it stopped for a while around midday when, coincidentally, Rob stopped to photograph a waterfall. He spent rather too long here it must be said, but he found it quite absorbing standing under a metal bridge trying not to slip on slippy rocks with a tripod and camera. Fortunately he didn't slip on the slippy rocks which was kind've handy because during dinner the staff commented on how dangerous that waterfall was if you happened to fall in, with deadly currents that drag you down to your death. It wasn't pleasant to be told of deadly currents just as you're eating - that spotted dick didn't look so yummy after all!

    After his near-death experience Rob continued the drive where he stopped to look at other falls/rapids but resisted the temptation to take more photos other than with his phone. Time was moving on, unlike the rain which had begun again and now seemed never-ending.    Read more

  • TravelerScotland 2018
    Day 2

    Rannoch Moor, Glen Etive and Glen Coe

    August 18, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Having left the road through Glen Orchy and turned northwards towards Glencoe, the next feature of note was Rannoch Moor which is a huge area of wilderness with the A82 running along its western side. It was cold and wet by that point in the journey and even so, Rob stopped for a while to take a photo but soon gave up. Much more time is needed here and in the right light there would be amazing photo opportunities. Not today though.

    Just past the Glen Coe ski area there is a left hand turn which takes you to the head of Loch Etive. It’s a single track road with passing places but Rob discovered not everyone knows what this means. On two occasions cars didn’t stop even though they were within a car’s length of one. The second car reversed back but the first continued on, trying to squeeze past. Rob’s Volvo survived but the other car looked as though the front wheel had dropped into a ditch ... best to pretend not to notice and carry on. The car wasn’t there on the way back so maybe it wasn’t as bad as it looked.

    Rob spent quite a bit of time in this valley, mainly because it had stopped raining for a while. Once again it was very picturesque and although he realised he’d been here with Julie around 2011 (or was it 2010?) he didn’t remember the waterfalls here, nor the slightly pink rock surrounding them. Having photographed a couple of waterfalls and spending time talking to two wild campers (what they were doing, they were very pleasant) it was way past when Rob should have left, so after checking out the Skyfall location he returned back along the valley and then through Glen Coe to Glencoe (are you following this?) and then southwards along the coast road back to the Lodge.

    At the end of the day there were a few photos to be had but the drive was well worth it whatever. It was raining again as Rob went to dinner but then it didn’t matter by then. The forecast for tomorrow isn’t all that good ... it’s a day of travelling to get to Skye where the rumour is it’s full. Rob’s a little nervous as to where he’ll be sleeping tomorrow night and wonders, if it’s pouring down, if it’ll be the first night spent in the back of the car.    Read more

  • TravelerScotland 2018
    Day 3

    Travelling to Skye

    August 19, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today was a day of driving and admiring the views on the way to Skye. No photography was planned although Rob did stop at one point to try and capture reflections in one of the Lochs. It was somewhat rushed though as he wanted to get to a camp site on Skye late afternoon to have the best chance of getting a place. There were hundreds of camper vans en-route and there were surely not as many as this when Rob and Julie toured Scotland. They were all over the place and all, pretty much, seemed under-powered and crawled up the slightest hill. They all seemed bigger than ever too and were flavoured with all nationalities ... obviously Brits, but Dutch and German in abundance. The odd few Italians as well ... a long journey from Italy to Scotland.

    The good news of the day was the weather forecast was wrong and it improved steadily the nearer Rob got to Skye. It was blue sky and sunshine upon arrival with clear views across the mountains. Brilliant ... no pitching a tent in the rain.    Read more

  • TravelerScotland 2018
    3
    Day 3

    First Midge Encounter

    August 19, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The good weather was welcomed and even more welcoming, apart from the sight of an even higher density of camper vans on Skye than on the mainland, was discovering there was plenty of room at the camp site ... only £8 a night too! Even better, there was a breeze when Rob arrived which meant the midges were grounded.

    The tent was soon erected, the sleeping mat blown-up using Rob’s home-made blower-upper, the sleeping bag installed and a coffee brewed. A home from home for sure, except that at 7pm the breeze subsided and the midges arrived in their masses, with people waving there arms and rubbing faces whilst pulling on long sleeved garments and coating themselves in anti-midge sprays, creams or anything else that might work. Rob reached for the Avon Skin So Soft which actually does appear to keep them away. They’re still there of course, and as soon as you stop walking they’re be all around you, but they do seem to be suitably repelled from using you for their evening snack.

    After a meal at Seumas’ bar just over the road (the white building you can see) Rob returned and spent some time in the car, mainly to avoid the annoyance of the midges. Skin So Soft may repel them from biting you but they’re still a bit of a nuisance which is why several people were wearing midge nets.

    It’s getting into the tent at bedtime that’s the tricky bit. First you go to the loo block for the end of day routine. Then you collect all the things you need in the tent and sneakily unzip it, in the dark, and throw them in. Next you run around the camp site like a madman to outrun the pesky insects then, as fast as you can, unzip the tent and dive in and zip up. Annoyingly, you turn the light on and spend ages killing the hundred or so midges that were shrewd enough to wait by the zip for when you arrive. You just have to face it ... you’re in midge country so you simply have to grin and bear it.

    Bet you’re impressed with the colour coordination inside the tent. You are, aren’t you!    Read more

  • TravelerScotland 2018
    Day 4

    Second Midge Encounter

    August 20, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After a very pleasant sleep, all snuggly and warm, the new day arrived and Rob opened the tent to the view you can see. The morning temperature wasn’t bad at all and there was no wind but of course, no wind means .... Midges and they swarmed in far higher numbers than last night. The Skin So Soft was in the car and although the car was only a few feet away, that was enough to get covered in the things. There was only one thing to do and that was to deploy the midge net, though it does make eating your breakfast cereal somewhat tricky. But everything worked in the end and with a cup of coffee, sitting in the car, Rob confirmed the plans for the day. North, head north but with the light dull and flat and cloud forecast for the entire day it would be accurate to say Rob wasn’t feeling too enthusiastic.Read more

  • TravelerScotland 2018
    Day 4

    Old Man of Storr

    August 20, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    It doesn’t take long to drive from the camp site to the parking area by the path leading to the Old Man of Storr and from this moment on the day became completely different to what Rob expected or planned. When he arrived it was packed with tourists but there was one Volvo sized place which was handy. Loads of camper vans and quite a number of travellers from various parts of Europe.

    The idea was to take the path, take a photo if there was one to be grabbed then go back to the car and continue north. In the end it became a peaceful day in the mountains when Rob took a side path and found hardly anyone else took the same route. The views were amazing from up there with a clear view across to the mainland. Photography-wise it was nothing special because the light remained flat all day, but it didn’t stop Rob trying to find a decent composition. There were plenty but the light just didn’t help at all and he decided it wasn’t worth the effort of walking further on past the main rock features to get the classic shot looking south.

    In the end Rob spent the whole day in that area and 5pm arrived without him even noticing. By the time he was back at the car brewing the coffee it was near 6pm and time to head back. Surprisingly, it turned out the day wasn’t finished yet.    Read more

  • TravelerScotland 2018
    Day 4

    End of the Day

    August 20, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    One thing was definitely true. Rob was starving and although he’d got something to drink during the day, he hadn’t taken anything to eat because he wasn’t intending to stay. But he did.

    As Rob drove south the weather completely changed and, even though the campsite is only 16 miles from that parking area, all of a sudden there were clear skies and sunshine. The evening meal was at the same place as last night and straight afterwards Rob collected his camera gear and walked to the left of the hotel and bar to the river which, from there, then flows past the camp site. The view was lovely looking along the river to the Cuillin Hills (even though everyone sees them as mountains) with the Moon above them and the fading light of the day. It was midge net time again but it was an enjoyable evening taking photos as the day drew to a close. The photos in this footprint are a hint of what it’s been like.

    Clear skies mean the temperature is cooler this evening and the fly sheet of the tent was quite wet as Rob climbed in to write the blog. It’s amazing being inside a tent on a camp site on Skye but having access to 4G 90mbit broadband. Crazy or what?

    So what will tomorrow bring? It’s difficult to say but the weather forecast isn’t good for the next few days and it may even be raining for breakfast. Hopefully not too hard because Rob remembered he hadn’t brought a waterproof jacket into the tent. Oh well, at least if it’s wet those midges will be grounded. The colder air kept them away at bedtime too.    Read more

  • TravelerScotland 2018
    Day 5

    No Serious Photography Today

    August 21, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    At 4am Rob could definitely tell the temperature was lower than the previous night. All was okay though and he next awoke around 8am to discover it wasn’t raining after all but there was a pleasant cool breeze, which doesn’t sound right but you know what a breeze, of any temperature, means don’t you? Unfortunately this breeze was also the mechanism that brought the rain so just as Rob was making coffee he could see the mist that was falling water getting nearer by the minute. It was the sort of rain vaguely reminiscent of the rain in Iceland in 2016, that sort you see falling downwards but sideways at the same time. Maybe it would be just a passing shower and it was really, it’s just there were a whole lot more from where that one came from and so, right there, that was pretty much the theme of the day. Oh, and the increasing wind strength of course. Mustn’t forget that.

    “So this will be a sightseeing day,” thought Rob, “to see if they’re worth a visit for photography on a better day.” And so it was and so it rained and was cloudy and misty and it was just so as Rob drove past all the cars parked at the Old Man of Storr car park. “Who’d do that on a day like this,” thought Rob again, and drove on. Really, who would, except all those people who have only that one chance to do it?

    The first stop was therefore Lealt Falls and here it was truly manic. Not only was it raining like mad but there were cars everywhere and where there we no cars there were coaches, minibuses and, of course, camper vans. The best part of the visit here was watching drivers attempting to park cars to reduce the amount of walking they must do, made even trickier with drivers having to cope with the steering wheel on the wrong side whilst manoeuvring hire cars they weren’t used to*. It was mayhem. Then there were the coaches arriving who sounded their horns like constipated elephants and expected cars to grow wings and fly vertically upwards out of their way. One coach driver simply stopped and blocked everyone from leaving, Rob included of course, so the visit here was around an hour or more. Rob could have left sooner but there was no rush and why miss the entertainment?

    The next location of note was a cafe for a quick snack and a coffee. On the way out, having also purchased a magnet of the Storr for the fridge, Rob noticed there was a path leading to the cliffs and decided to stroll up there to take a look and wished he’d taken his camera rather than just the phone. It was brilliant sitting on a handy sized rock with a view like that. Okay, it’s just a typical coastal scene but it was a pleasant temperature and a peaceful location sheltered from the wind and the rain showers as they passed through. It was here the wind speeds picked up and when Rob took the car down to the jetty (zoom in to the panorama and you’ll see it) that’s when the heavy rain arrived and the wind shook the car. So that was really it for the day to be honest. There was no sign of it letting up.

    * Rob could hear the people talking and could therefore tell the countries they were from. The UK drivers weren’t all that brilliant either.    Read more

  • TravelerScotland 2018
    Day 5

    Three Girls on the Quiraing

    August 21, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Now some of you may have thought that ‘quiraing’ was the sound you hear when someone hits their head on a ship’s bulkhead door. Others may think it’s the name of a car - the Nissan Quiraing - but no you’d all be wrong, especially about the car as everyone knows it’s a Nissan Cashcow.

    The Quiraing is a stunning area in the north-east of Skye which has been formed by a massive landslip, and truly massive it is too. Visually it’s fantastic and a classic photographic location which is why, even though it was raining heavily and the area was covered in cloud, Rob decided he’d still go and take a look. You can see from the first photo, taken on the way back to the main road from that jetty at Staffin, that it looks pretty miserable. Upon arriving at the small car park at the top it was .... truly miserable. It was raining hard with gusting winds and the landscape was completely soaked with areas of ground glistening wet.

    Whilst parked there Rob was impressed to see three walkers on the hillside, about 80 metres from the car, who looked as though they were thinking of wild camping and Rob decided they were either completely mad or truly impressive. At one point one of them waved in the direction if the car then there was what looked like packing up being done and five minutes later they were at the car window ... three girls, Czech students touring Scotland for a month. They looked completely drowned and were soaked through and were asking if there was any chance of a lift off the mountain. They needed to be off the mountain, that was clear enough, then it turned out they wanted to go to the camp site where Rob was staying. Their packs were heavy and also wet, but everything fitted into the car and the four of them had a great journey ‘home’. They all chatted endlessly and it was a great end to the day - apart from the driving rain and gusting winds of course, but who's counting those minor inconveniences?

    Rob ate at the now usual place and the weather, if anything, got worse. How the girls pitched their tent and prepared a meal is anyone’s guess but hopefully they’ll have a warm and dry night. Rob spent the evening in the car dealing with emails and uploading photos and writing this blog. Now it’s time to manage getting from the car to the tent whilst staying reasonably dry. As forecast, the winds have calmed and the rain abated so maybe it’s doable.

    So, what will tomorrow bring? The weather forecast is better but the way things are it’ll be during breakfast the decision will be made. Oh dear ... it’s raining again.    Read more

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