Russia
Tyumenskaya Oblast’

Here you’ll find travel reports about Tyumenskaya Oblast’. Discover travel destinations in Russia of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

4 travelers at this place:

  • Day12

    Tobolsk

    August 27, 2015 in Russia

    Na een zeer korte nacht in slaaptrein waarin we twee dingen hebben geleerd; Allereerst drinken in de trein is verboden maar uiteraard kan je bij de wagondamesch, een soort wagonbeheerders, alcohol aanschaffen. Voor een toerist onmogelijk. Dus maak je vrienden. Ten tweede je kunt beter machinist zijn in rusland dan tandarts. Het spoor berijden levert twee keer zoveel op leerde alex ons. Een tandarts die machinist is geworden. Eindelijk waren we daar : Tobolsk die je deginieert als: Het bruisende centrum heeft een kremlin. De straten zijn uitgestorven en niemand spreekt engels. Nadat Marleen dr tas is opgemeten in de bus, copy copy praktijken 😂, we in een montypythonachtig incheck cabaret zijn beland is een kamer vinden gelukt. Nu ff opfrissen en de twee straten verder uitpluizen. Op dit moment schalt er niggah niggah muziek uit getuned russisch ijzer op wielen. Het belooft een mooie dag te worden. Foto's hieronder zijn nog van yekaterinburg met onze gids en hostelhulp yanna, headquatres KGB, streetartist en de kerk is te Tobolsk = gelijk de hoofdattractie hier. Mzzl.Read more

  • Day13

    Tjoemen

    August 28, 2015 in Russia

    Tussenstop opweg naar Irkutsk. Regenachtig, grauw, grijs, lelijke gebouwen, akelige lunch in een souterrain club, 6 uur dwalen, snel vergeten, super melig, goed gelachen, extra foto's tobolsk en doorgang.

  • Day4

    Siberia

    March 27 in Russia

    In the early hours of this morning we crossed into Siberia. The temperature also rose to just above freezing, but you'd never know it by looking out of the window. Inside the train it is 28°C. Wrapping up to get off at the stations is a protracted business.

  • Day96

    A rare instance of forwardness

    April 10, 2017 in Russia

    Three hundred and fifty miles, approx. half a day on a train, north east of Ekaterinburg on top of a hill overlooking the confluence of the rivers Tobol and Irtush lies Tobolsk, the former capital of Siberia. No longer on the major Trans-Siberian Route it still draws a number of tourists each year, according to the guys I met shovelling snow in the kremlin. Surprisingly, or perhaps not, there’s several museums; statutes; churches and a whole lot of old wooden architecture alongside the city’s Kremlin. It was stupidly sunny whilst I was in town though so I basically just walked around for two days, but first I had to get into town.

    Russians don’t seem to interact with strangers but, whilst sitting on the bus after getting off the night train the man of indeterminate age sat next to me wearing some sort of fur hat disturbed the sanctity of the public bus. Sometimes I meet people who speak some strange form of Russian that I largely don’t understand, I assume it’s because they speak too fast and use a lot of words I’ve never heard before, this was one of those moments. It was International Women’s Day; this is what I thought he was saying.

    “С празником” (happy celebration, generically greeting used on celebration days) [directed at the at two women sat nearby]. “You [directed at me] should wish them a good day. Where are you from? Do you not celebrate International Women’s Day?” “...something something something…” “Do you drink? He [pointing at the male bus conductor with headphones in] drinks” “…something something something…there’s no sex in Russia*” I’m not entirely sure what he could have said to get this across but I’m pretty sure he ended it with “(something about Russians, or maybe Siberians, or maybe just him, liking ‘larger’ women)”. He then wished the girl at the back of the bus С празником before getting off. The whole bus seemed to be entertained. I wondered if the next month would continue in a similar fashion.
    --

    “I don’t really like the UK!” Boris told me whilst sat in the car.

    Boris (28) and his girlfriend Ivanova were my hosts in town. They lived in his mum’s flat in the centre of town and both worked in the local cinema. Boris had previously lived in St Petersburg whilst working for a car manufacturers before moving back home to Tobolsk. We were driving to his dacha to feed the dog.

    “Ha! That is precisely the way the start a conversation. Why?”

    “Because of their history with us. They prevented us from taking [place name I can’t remember] in WW1 from Turkey, our historic enemy and they helped fund the revolution which stalled Russian development.”

    “Wait. You think don’t think the revolution happened because people were discontent?”

    “I think the rebels were simply murders. They killed off the army officers and educated people setting Russia back 50 years until WWII started. Only now are we able to find out that the improvements the Soviet system claimed for itself were actually started under the last Tsar and his Prime Minister Stolypin. By 1917 most of the land had already been redistributed so there was no need for the revolution. This wasn’t in Soviet history textbooks but if you read books written by foreign ambassadors in Russia at the time they back this up, the Russian empire was in a much better position than we’re told it was.”

    We’d driven out of the city and pulled out on a darkened street, a row of dachas built on either side. Boris’ was built by his mum (not personally) and seemed pretty new and liveable. It had a living room with a tv, fridge and cooking equipment; bedrooms upstairs; a garden and a banya**. He started heating up something from the freezer to feed to the dog whilst I tried and failed to take a picture with the cat.

    “What if there hadn’t been a revolution? The tsar still had all the power and that system could still exist today. Would that really be a better situation?” I asked.

    “I think having a tsar is the best situation for Russia right now. It brings stability and it’s in our history. We’re used to there being one person on top to whom you go to if you are in trouble. We have regional governments but if people have a problem they try and go straight to Putin. A couple of weeks ago some unfair decision was made in a local court. They started appealing the case but in the meantime a journalist asked Putin about it during a press conference. Before the appeal had even been heard the decision was over turned. We know he isn’t perfect but he also bought stability and the situation under his presidency has improved. Everyone’s corrupt; local officials and federal officials. He already owns everything and has made so much money now that all he can do is try and help Russia and try and make an impact on its history. Though I know not everyone I know would agree with me on that.”

    “I had a pretty similar conversation to this with a friend in Ekaterinburg the other day. Can you explain something to me? Why does World War 2, The Great Patriotic War, only seem to have lasted for 4 years inside Russia?”

    “It didn’t. We know and learn in school that World War 2 started earlier but The Great Patriotic War relates to the USSR’s fight against the Nazi’s and their allies.”

    “Do you know what happened in the other two years and why the USSR wasn’t in the war?”

    “We learn about it in school. There was a pact or something. I can’t remember now but we did learn about it.”

    Boris drove us back into town, enroute the traffic cops had set up in the middle of the road and waved us over. After a brief chat with the cops we drove on. “He said we’d already met today.” Explained Boris. “Have you?” “No.” On the rest of the ride Boris explained to me why he thought the Ukrainian language, and thus Ukraine’s existence as a separate entity from Russia, was a product of the Catholic Poles wanting to create a buffer between them and the Orthodox Russians. Arriving back at the flat Boris and I started to prepare a salad for dinner.

    “Our grandparents generation have a saying. ‘Anything’s better than the Nazi’s.” Stated Boris.

    “What does that mean?”

    “It means this country’s been through a lot of suffering over the past hundred or so years and we’ve learnt to put up with it. We can put up with economic pain, we’ll make do, just don’t start a war. That’s what the government’s there for. We can deal with whatever situation we find ourselves in, they just have to prevent a war externally and prevent a revolution internally.”

    “But what about freedoms? I met quite a few people that don’t feel they can express themselves openly, which they think is a problem.”

    “Hmm. Whoever’s said that must be talking about local government and they probably meant it’s not worth complaining as nothing will change. You can say what you want about Putin, go out and shout it on the street, no one will do anything. Either way, in a few generations, after we’ve had peace for a while, then we can think about freedoms. Can you tell me what people in Europe think about Russia?”

    “I’ve been in Russia so long I don’t know how people in the UK think. I’d say we don’t know that much about Russia, generally all we hear about is Russian politics.” I explained about Crimea [see Freedoms Part 3.]

    “But why are other Eastern European countries scared? If I was to go to Estonia and hug someone in the street why wouldn’t they hug me back?”

    “Because of the history and because in all the countries bordering Russia there are Russian speaking minorities. If Putin decides Russia has to defend the rights of Russian speakers then people in those countries have reason to be worried.”

    “Yeah but that’s history now. I think the governments of those countries have a role to play. If they didn’t take money from NATO and instead said that Russia was a friend not an enemy it would be fine. It’s propaganda.”

    I have no idea how we got onto this but I explained why London’s multiculturalism is what makes the city so great.

    “Maybe it works there but I’ve seen what [Central Asian] migrants are like in Russia. They aren’t educated, they like or respect Russia and they don’t want to integrate. They shouldn’t move here and expect to live like they do at home. It’s funny, you think like a European and you’re being an idealist.”

    “There’s nothing wrong with having ideals. Anyway, if is true that they don’t respect Russia, it might be because they get harassed all the time for being Central Asian. [I explained about my time in Veliky Novgorod.] If you were getting stopped in the street, having your ID checked for no reason, wouldn’t you be pissed off? Maybe people in Russia should start treating them better.”

    “Or they could just go home.”

    We sat down to watch the football.

    “Isn’t it strange that European migrants can live in Russia without any problems but not Central Asian migrants who ‘used to be your brothers [in the USSR]’”

    “Yeah, ha, that is strange.”

    Barcelona came back from a previous 4-0 defeat against PSG to win 6-1.

    The next day I walked into the kitchen to see Boris cooking something in a pan.

    “What’s that?”

    “It’s a mammoth’s tooth.”

    “…really?”

    “Yeah.”

    “…really?”

    “Yeah. My mum found it a few years ago whilst taking the dog for a walk. Bit of bone and teeth occasionally turn up in the river. Kids that find them can make quite a bit of money selling them on.”

    After some more wandering around in the sun I headed back to the flat before going to catch my next train. Ivanova was cooking dinner. As well as working in the cinema she was a yoga instructor and over new year’s she’d been on a yoga course near Kerala. She was currently making chickpea soup with paneer and had already made hummus, Russian cooking doesn’t use spices so this was one of the best things I’d eaten to date. Another football match was starting, Manchester United were playing Rostov-on-Don.

    “The commentators just said that UK TV showed a programme about Russian football hooligans as a warning for those thinking of visiting the world cup over here.” Boris told me.

    “You know that’s cause of what happened in France during the Euros? Right?”

    “Oh yeah…but it wasn’t just Russians that were fighting.”

    * http://russiapedia.rt.com/on-this-day/july-17

    ** Russian sauna; an integral part of Russian culture.
    Read more

  • Day276

    Krutinka - Ekaterinburg
    743km

    Aiming to cover the last 750km to Ekaterinburg in a single day I got up just after sunrise and headed out to do a round of the trucks, asking anyone drivers who were up and awake ready to set off. Again I’d been met by a generally angry or unhelpful crowd of faces. I went out to stand in the road and watched truck after truck drive past, leaving me stood with my just my water bottle and the bright first rays of the morning sun to keep me warm. About an hour passed. Eventually I decided maybe the presence of loads of other trucks was inducing some sort of by-stander effect and therefore actually decreased the chance of me getting a ride. I walked to the otherwise of the nearby roundabout and stood just down from the correct turn off and waited again.

    #1 Elmir (416km)
    A bright orange truck pulled in, the kind that’s owned by a large haulage firm and that I had thought probably prohibited their drivers to take on passengers. Elmir (early 30s) had already been on the road for over three hours and was bored and wanted someone to chat to, I was happy to oblige.

    My new driver was Bashkiriy, one of Russia’s many local ethnicities, so we spent quite a while chatting about his native culture and the situation in his home republic: Bashkartostan. Bashkartostan is located at the southern end of the Urals and, I was told, is a relatively rich region thanks to its oil deposits, fertile soil and varied landscapes. It’s also official home to the Bashkir people’s, a Turkic, Muslim group of horse lovers (not that intimately, I assume). Elmir, like many of his fellow people’s, still speak the local language and his three young kids understand it though they attend a Russian language nursery.

    He, the kids, his wife and his girlfriend (separate people), live in a village somewhere in the republic. They have a smallholding and grow or raise almost all their own food, only going to the shops for pasta, etc. In his words, whatever sanctions are imposed aren’t felt all that much by local people as they’re often quite self-sufficient anyway so not being able to buy imported food isn’t going to affect them directly. Elmir’s family have horses, cows, chickens, sheep and more I think and they make their own kumis (fermented horse milk), horse meat sausages and more. They also have a boat to go fishing in.

    I described the conversation I’d had with Buryats in Ulan-Ude (back in March) and was told in response that people should learn their own language and keep it alive but, as ‘Bashkir is a state like in the US’, they should also learn the language of the wider country, in this case Russian. Apparently some people in the countryside of Bashkartostan aren’t able to do this; I’ve heard the same about Buryatia. Recently the Russian Government has been trying to change the language of instruction in Bashkir schools. Currently they are Bashkir language schools though I got the impression that the government wants to get rid of these, which local people are strongly opposed to. Additional to the importance of language to local culture, Elmir also said that people have two marriages, an official ‘Russian’ document signing and a local ‘Muslim’ wedding that’s considered far more important; and that, in his opinion, the local leader (regional Governor) of an area should be of the local ethnicity, in this case Bashkir. Apparently the regional governor is of one of Russia’s stateless ethnic groups closely related to the Bashkir’s though, in Elmir’s opinion, they’re not the same so as he’s not a ‘clean’ Bashkir he shouldn’t be the regional head of state. Part of this reasoning is founded in the belief that an ethnically ‘clean’ leader would be more interested in helping the local people rather than helping Moscow, as is supposedly the case at the moment. The head of the federal government though? They should, in Russia, be Russian though. If they weren’t then there’d be riots. [Elmir thought the same reasoning would apply for British citizens, I explained who Saddiq Khan was (as an example of London, if not the UK’s, acceptance of multi-culturalism)].

    Elmir’s contract is such that he gets fined for speeding, or returning the van in a damaged condition but he gets a bonus for efficient fuel-use and fast delivery. He also gets paid per km he drives and works 1-month on 1-month off, though can cut his break shorter if he wants. His favourite place in Russia is a lake 100km from home that’s hard to access so if you reach it you know you’re going to be alone.

    A little before we arrived in Tyumen he started feeling nervous, as he always does before arriving at a new delivery in anticipation of the unknown that lies ahead of him. He set me down near a big ‘Tuymen’ sign on the road into town from which I caught a cab across the city to get to the road leading out West towards Ekat.

    #2 Dima (4km)

    It happened again on the taxi across the city. It keeps happening, usually whilst in a car crossing some invisible line somewhere on a map the stars re-arrange somewhat and you find yourself staring at your phone wondering why you feel much more exhausted than you should. In my case my phone was still set to Omsk time, which itself is two time-zones away from Krasnoyarsk time – where I effectively started this trip to Ekb, however now I was in Tyumen, which apparently is on Sverdlovsk (Ekb) time. I probably had time to catch the bus after all. This having been thought I found myself stood holding my sign part way down a very fast dual-carriageway leading out of the city with no other alternatives for hitching spots. People barely had time to notice me let alone stop. Eventually a car pulled out of the turning I was stood in front of and Dima offered me a lift down to a slower patch of road.

    I was only in the car for a few minutes so, despite my newfound hour, all I found out was that I’d been standing infront of the driving school at which Dima was learning to ride a motorbike.
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  • Day64

    50 Shades of Grey #42

    March 9, 2017 in Russia

    Tobolsk Kremlin.

    They adding wooden bits to the kremlin in preparation got a film.

    [Turns out kremlins can look really nice when set against a blue sky.]

You might also know this place by the following names:

Tyumenskaya Oblast’, Tyumenskaya Oblast', Tiumen, Oblast de Tioumen, Tjumen, Тюмень

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