Rwanda
Northern Province

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    • Day 27

      Twin lakes fishing

      November 5, 2023 in Rwanda

      We had not had wifi or data for a couple of days now, and as such we could not communicate with Caroline (Vic's friend) to discuss what time they would have their driver pick us up. We had been told 8am, but it was a lot easier for him to pick us up first. So the time changed to 7:30am but we had no way of knowing. As such, I was in the shower when the driver arrived, and we ran around trying to make breakfast, organise our belongings, and have a coffee. Although slightly late, we eventually made it, picked up the others, and headed to the twin Lakes. We arrived at a port and participated in some local fishing. I'm not sure exactly what I expected when we decided to do fish, but when they sent us out in little wooden boats with some reeds as fishing poles, I was quite surprised. I did not know what we could expect to catch, but based on the gear, they didn't expect us to catch much. We paddled out to some floating grasses and began to drop lines out just to the side of the boat. At first, there was not much luck, but gradually, we started pulling in tiny fish, which i do not know the species name, unfortunately. Their size ranged from about 1 cm to 5 cm. This was quite strange as they would definitely have been below the legal limit in Aus, but clearly, no such rules exist in Rwanda. So there was no fish turned away, and eventually, the volume started to pick up. Vic secured the most fish of the day, and due to a late increase in performance by me, we probably beat the other boat with Caroline and her 2 friends. The views from the lake made the trip worthwhile, but the fishing was actually a lot of fun. Obviously, there were no big catches, but it was a lot of fun to be fishing and being almost certain to get a bite, at least every couple of minutes. It felt more like a game with the ease in which we caught them. The surrounding areas included mount Bisoke, an active volcano, a few dormant volcano's; Mikeno, Gahinga, and Muhavura. Not to mention, a few very large mountains such as Mount Sabyinyo and Karisimbi. This made for acceptional scenery the whole time we were on the lake, and it was truly a wonderful experience. We were out there for probably 2 hours in very overcast conditions, yet somehow managed to dodge all the rain- which started as soon as we got back to land. When we arrived back to shore, we gave the little fish we caught to the kids to add to their own collection. Our guess is that they cook and sell them to make money, so we were happy to help them out as best we could. We were then ferried across the lake to an island where we sat for a few drinks and lunch. Although this was only supposed to be for a couple of hours, our lunch literally took 2 and a half hours to get out to us. This meant our poor captain sat and waited this whole time, but it was out of our control. We were very frustrated ourselves with how long it took. We had been telling Caroline about our tour and she was very intrigued. So much so that she had decided she would join until Zanzibar. An exciting and sudden prospect. She would be joining us tomorrow in Kigali.

      After the low awaited lunch, we eventually got off the island and back to the mainland. We asked our driver to take us to Byiza Lodge. We only wanted to go here for the view, but it ended up being incredibly nice and fancy. The views were even better than we expected. We could see Lake Burera, all the mountains and volcanoes, the beautiful farmland, and even 360 degrees to Lake Ruhondo. Though the views to this lake were slightly obstructed, the rest of the views were incredible and easily made the trip worth it. We stuck around for a while, playing cards and drinking while we admired the view from the restaurant. By the time we got back, dinner was ready, and we basically ate and went straight to bed. Ending a great day.
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    • Day 4

      Day 1 - Kigali to Musanze (Team Rwanda H

      May 26, 2018 in Rwanda ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

      First day of cycling and what a day! The roads are amazing and it is so clean. Today between 7am and 11am they have 'umaganda' where communities clean up - it's the last Saturday of the month. No traffic is all on the road so we have a clear run through normally busy Kigali.
      It's then the hills start and they are big and long - take a look on Strava!
      But it is beautiful- amazing. Really the photos do no justice. 64 miles 6800 ft climbing. Bike taxis racing us up hills (and often winning), shouts of Muzungo. Kiki - a team Rwanda cyclist is our mechanic and everyone knows him - he is an excellent mechanic - mended my clicky gears!
      Great company- great chats.
      Tonight Bosco - who drives one of the support vehicles told his story, about when he was young in the genocide in Burundi. Take a look at https://youtu.be/uph8e0r4mZk it is well worth the look.

      then you shall take delight in the Lord, and I will make you ride on the heights of the earth Isaiah 58:14
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    • Day 15

      Cultural Village

      July 14, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      After yesterday's trek we were grateful for a leisurely 9.30am breakfast (porridge, omelette and ginger tea), and 10.30am departure.

      The Iby'Iwacu Cultural Village is a tourist orientated display which employs residents of a former poaching village to display Rwandan heritage, lifestyle, food culture and dance. Each display is accompanied by a demonstration and commentary, and we were invited to participate in the dancing and wedding ceremonies,

      It was only a short distance from the lodge, so we were back for lunch at 1.30pm.

      We had a free afternoon to pack, wash, read etc, then an information session from Carla, before tea in the restaurant and bed.

      Being in the mountains, it's a bit cooler at night, so you have the choice of the staff lighting the fire in your room (each room has an open fire place), or a hot water bottle in your bed. Tonight we chose both!
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    • Day 14

      Gorillas in the clear

      July 13, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

      Mountain Gorilla Day!
      Up at the regular 5.45am for a 6.30am departure for the Ranger's station. Not as many people here today - the gorilla treks are always booked out (96 people per day), so there must be less on the monkey treks - so it didn't take long to get our allocated group. There are 12 habituated groups of gorillas, and only one group if trekkers visits each one, and we have been allocated the Umabano group, which is a family group of 15.

      The treks are designated as easy (up to 1 hour), medium (1-2 hours) or difficult (over 2 hours), but it's all dependent on where the gorillas move. Ours is usually a medium trek, and we've been fortunate to be allocated Francois as our guide - he's been working with gorillas for 36 years and was one of Diane Fossey''s guides, so he's fluent in gorilla and is a legend among the guides.

      It was a 45 minute drive to the start of the track, so we set off walking at 8.45am. The mountain gorillas roam all over the mountain, so we headed up and up, with the guides in radio contact with trackers who had gone up earlier to locate the group. It was a grueling walk, constantly uphill for almost 2 hours, with a number of stops to catch our breath. The altitude adds to the difficulty of the walk, and word came down that the family had been located at 2900m (as comparison, Mount Kosciuszko is 2,200m above sea level).

      About 100m from the group, the head tracker met us and we left our bags and porters and headed up with Francois. The first gorilla we spotted was the number 3 silverback of the group (unlike chimpanzees, gorillas have multiple silverbacks in a family group), who was pkaying with a younger male. We watched them for a while at close quarters, then went further uphill and saw both the head silverback and number 2. As we were moving uphill, a young male crossed the path between us and brushed against Oliver's leg with his hand!

      We spent over an hour observing the family playing, grooming and sleeping, then made our way down. The return journey was considerably quicker at 45 minutes.

      We returned to our lodge for late lunch, then went for a drive to the twin lakes, Burera and Ruhondo, and a sundowner at Virunga Lodge (the first lodge built after the genocide, to cater for gorilla tourism...but at $1600 a night, we won't be staying there anytime soon!)

      Returned for buffet tea and viewing of a gorilla DVD around the open fire before bed.
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    • Day 13

      Golden Monkey trekking

      July 12, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Another 6.30am departure and drive to the ranger station for registration. This is where the gorilla and monkey treks leave from, so there was a car park full of 4WDs and around 200 people there. This is the cash cow of Rwandan tourism and the government recently doubled the price of the gorilla permits overnight, from $750 to $1500... and there's talk they will double it again to $3000 to reduce demand whilst maintaining income. Hopefully they won't kill the goose that laid the golden egg...

      We're doing the Golden Monkey trek today, an easy 45 minute walk, firstly through the potato plantations, then into a bamboo forest. There are 120 monkeys in the family, and it didn't take long to spot them. Golden Monkeys are endangered and only found in the volcanic mountains in this area. They live in the mid region of the forest away from their two main predators - eagles at the top of the trees and wild dogs on the ground. They feed quickly and store the food in cheek pouches for later digestion, so look very cute with their chubby cheeks!

      We returned to the lodge for lunch, then headed into Musanze for some shopping at the local market. At 4pm we visited the Dianne Fossey Gorilla Fund Museum for a guided tour, and paid an impromptu visit into Team Rwanda cycling team headquarters on the way back. We spotted their sign on the way into Musanze, but the gate was closed when we got back - it didn't stop Aloys who soon had us inside, and got a tour of their facility! Unfortunately they didn't have any merchandise to sell 😕

      When we arrived back at the lodge there was a local dance troupe waiting to perform for us. It was an energetic performance, including some crowd participation (not only can we not jump, turns out we can't dance either!)

      Dinner was a buffet in the lodge restaurant, early bed at 9.30pm
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    • Day 12

      Driving via Lake Kivu

      July 11, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      After 5 nights in the south west, today we head north along Lake Kivu toward Volcanoes National Park.

      A full day driving - we left Kamembe at 8.30am, morning tea at Kibuye at 12.30pm (half way up the lake), lunch at Gisenye at 3.30pm (top of the lake), arrived Volcanoes National Park 7pm.

      The quality of the main roads in Rwanda is as good as any in Australia (but with a lot more pedestrians and bicycles, and constantly hilly and windy), and construction is still ongoing at a furious pace. Despite the long hours, it was a great drive with diverse scenery. The scenery was ever changing, so much so that we dared not take our eyes off the road for fear of missing another spectacular mountain or lake view, a bustling village, or a load of vegetables or building materials being balanced on someone's head or bicycle! And I think they underestimated the number of hills in Rwanda at 1000!

      Dinner in the lodge restaurant (buffet), before bed at 11.30pm.
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    • Day 46

      It had to happen once...

      February 16, 2016 in Rwanda ⋅ ☀️ -3 °C

      Gisenyi was perfect for relaxation. We had an amazing diner at a new Californian restaurant where we actually had baguette with pineapple chutney, and actual goat cheese, and caramelized onions... So good...

      We left early to get to Musanze so we could organize some tours we wanted to do. And then it happened. We were on the minibus about 20 minutes outside of town and Jack realized she couldn't find her phone. Last seen, in her bed last night. So we get off the minibus, pay, then cross the street and wait for another minibus. Thankfully they never take very long. Get to our "centre d'accueil", remember - this is a church, so I'm feeling good about our chances - and sure enough, phone still on the bed. Second take, off we go to Musanze!

      Again, pretty easy. Get off the bus at the bus station, follow lonely planet map to Amahoro Tours, only to find where it should be it wasn't. Then someone who clearly sees we're somewhat confused signals us to follow her, through a little alley, in a back alley, and into a courtyard and we're there! Turns out, we were at the right place but we never assumed there would be no signage at the street or any indication... Here, we reserve our camping tent, our village cultural tour and our banana beer making course. Done deal. The Red Rocks accommodation from where all this is based is outside of town, so they supply the transfer over after giving us time to explore the town for a few hours. Too easy.

      Once at Red Rocks, they decided to give us a room for the price of a tent, they say it's because they like us. We'll take it! This is turning out to be quite the useful last town in Rwanda. Harriet, the manager or something, is also planning to go to Uganda, but she says she's going tomorrow (17th) instead of the 18th because she believes the border will be closed the 18th. Even better - we get a ride! She's originally from Rwanda, her family moved to Uganda after the first genocide (1964ish), then in her childhood they moved to New York and eventually California. Anywho, she's organized our "cultural" tour to be in the morning, we get back, have lunch, do banana beer and off we go all together to the Ugandan border where she says we can then stay with her family for the night. How absolutely perfect!

      This hostel has a very easy vibe, relaxed, 3 other travellers. Breakfast included, communal meals, too easy. We're hoping to get to know some of the local culture tomorrow since it's our last chance in Rwanda and we feel we haven't seen much of it... Let's hope for tomorrow!
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    • Day 4

      Vulkan-Nationalpark

      October 4, 2021 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Heute haben wir eine Wanderung im Volcanoes- Nationalpark gemacht. Leider haben wir keine Gorillas gesehen, dafür aber interessante Pflanzen. Auf den Pfand den wir gewandert sind kamen wir zum Friedhof der Gorillas von Dian Fossey.Read more

    • Day 13

      Mountain Gorillas

      November 11, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Trekking to see a gorilla family

    • Day 53

      Volcanoes- nasionale park

      November 2, 2016 in Rwanda ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Hierdie park is in die noordwestelike hoek van Rwanda, waar dit grens aan Uganda en die Kongo. Meeste toeriste kom hierheen om berggorillas te sien, maar ons het die (veel goedkoper) goue-aap ("golden monkey") ekskursie gedoen. Jy stap tot in 'n bamboeswoud teen die berghange en kyk dan hoe die ape nou en dan afskarrel na die grond om jong bamboesspriete af te breek wat hulle dan bo in die blaredak sit en vreet. Na die tyd het ons self iets gaan eet (maar die Rwandese chillie-olie eenkant gelos...), en na die reuse gorillabeeld gaan kyk op die terrein waar die jaarlikse gorilla naamgee-plegtigheid gehou word. Tydens dié affêre kry al die jaar se nuwe gorillababas naam. Ons slaap oor by Red Rocks, 'n netjiese backpackers in die omgewing.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Northern Province, Nord, Intara y’ Amajyaruguru

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