Rwanda
Ruhango

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    • Day 55

      45. Rwanda: Genocide Memorial +

      July 1, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

      We popped over the Ugandan border to Rwanda for the day, to visit the the Kigali Genocide Museum.

      The museum commemorates how, in 1994, the country was driven into a genocidal civil war by the Hutu dominated government against the more successful and prosperous Tutsi ethnic group. Nearly 1,000,000 Tutsis (of Rwanda's total population of about 8 million) lost their lives in brutal massacres not just by government troops, but by neighbor against neighbor and friend against friend. Men, women, and children were bludgeoned with clubs, hacked with machetes, and shot to death...no one was spared.

      The RPF, Rwanda Patriotic Front, consisting of Tutsis and moderate Hutus, defeated the Hutu government and brought an end to the killing. Rwanda exists today (only 29 years later) under a nationalist ideology, where people do not identify by tribe, but rather as just "Rwandan".

      The museum houses 250,000 victims of the genocide in a mass grave. Pix were not allowed inside the museum.

      Afterwards, our group briefly toured a memorial to 10 Belgian soldiers that died fighting the genocide, then we had lunch at Hotel Des Mille Collines (hotel of a thousand hills), the real life hotel depicted in the movie "Hotel Rwanda." It is the true story of the hotel manager who saved the lives of 1250+ Tutsis ensconced in the hotel during the genocide.

      Worthy of note: Kigali is immaculate. Not one piece of plastic, paper, or garbage anywhere. We haven't seen anything like this throughout the rest of Africa.
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    • Day 37

      Visiting the Genocide Memorial

      March 3, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

      From Annie we didn't really know how to leave again, as the motos had dropped us far from the main roads. We ended up calling our trusted taxi driver, who took some 20min to come for us, but came when he said he would. We drove straight to the Genocide Memorial.

      Rwanda had a major disruptive event happening as recent as 1994, when the Hutu majority called for all of the Tutsi minority to be killed. Husband's killed their wives, friends killed each other, people set their neighbor's house on fire... In 100 days of genocide in 1994 over one million people died, while the global community stood by and did essentially nothing to intervene.

      The genocide memorial was opened in 2003 as a permanent reminder for the world to better identify situations similar to those that led up to the boiling point event, and make sure it is never repeated again. During the genocide, a lot of kids lost their parents, which is one of the main factors why Rwanda nowadays is such a forward thinking and innovative country.

      Now there are a lot of businesses run by 30 year olds, who are reinventing how business works. There is a thriving tech scene, and Rwanda is actively working to establish itself as the tech hub of Africa. And they are doing well on their journey!

      The genocide memorial is a powerful display of how horrible humanity can be. It illustrated in both text and pictures all the events before, during, and after the 100 days. It is definitely a must visit when in Kigali. Over 125 000 people are buried at the memorial ground in mass graves.

      We had been advised of this, but our moods were definitely very somber when we left the museum. All I could do is shake my head at the brutality that us humans can conjure up when led by immoral leaders.
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    • Day 10

      Kigali Genocide Memorial

      June 18, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      I don't think I fully understood the concept or extent of what had happened during the Kigali Genocide even after going to the memorial and being given all the information I am unable to fully comprehend. I have so many unanswered questions and I left the memorial centre feeling numb and lost for words.

      The Rwandan genocide, also known as the genocide against the Tutsi, was a genocidal mass slaughter of Tutsi in Rwanda by members of the Hutu majority government. An estimated 500,000–1,000,000 Rwandans were killed during the 100-day period from April 7 to mid-July 1994, constituting as many as 70% of the Tutsi population.

      The genocide itself, the large scale killing of Tutsi on the grounds of ethnicity, began within a few hours of Habyarimana's death. Military leaders in Gisenyi province announced the president's death, blaming the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF) and then ordered the crowd to "begin your work" and to "spare no one", including babies.

      The Hutu population, which had been prepared and armed during the preceding months and maintained the Rwandan tradition of obedience to authority, carried out the orders without question.

      It is estimated that during the first six weeks, up to 800,000 Rwandans may have been murdered, representing a rate five times higher than during the Holocaust of Nazi Germany.

      Most of the victims were killed in their own villages or in towns, often by their neighbors and fellow villagers. The militia typically murdered victims with machetes, although some army units used rifles. The Hutu gangs searched out victims hiding in churches and school buildings, and massacred them. Local officials and government-sponsored radio incited ordinary citizens to kill their neighbors, and those who refused to kill were often murdered on the spot. "Either you took part in the massacres or you were massacred yourself."

      Road blocks were set up and people were obligated to present their identification card, if they were Tutsi they were slaughtered.

      The genocidal authorities were displaying the French flag on their own vehicles but slaughtering Tutsi who came out of hiding seeking protection.

      Rape was used as a weapon, during the conflict, Hutu extremists released hundreds of patients suffering from AIDS from hospitals and formed them into "rape squads." The intent was to infect and cause a "slow, inexorable death" for their future Tutsi rape victims. Tutsi women were also targeted with the intent of destroying their reproductive capabilities. Sexual mutilation sometimes occurred after the rape and included mutilation of the vagina with machetes, knives, sharpened sticks, boiling water, and acid.

      The genocide and widespread slaughter of Rwandans ended when the Tutsi-backed and heavily armed RPF led by Paul Kagame took control of the country. An estimated 2,000,000 Rwandans, mostly Hutus, were displaced and became refugees.

      The systematic destruction of the judicial system during the genocide and civil war was a major problem. After the genocide, over one million people were potentially culpable for a role in the genocide, nearly one fifth of the population remaining after the summer of 1994. After the genocide, the RPF pursued a policy of mass arrests for the genocide, jailing over 100,000 in the two years after the genocide. The pace of arrests overwhelmed the physical capacity of the Rwandan prison system, leading to what Amnesty International deemed “cruel, inhuman, or degrading treatment.” The country’s nineteen prisons were designed to hold about eighteen thousand inmates, but at their peak in 1998 there were 100,000 people in detention facilities across the country.
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    • Day 94

      Kigali Day & Night

      January 4, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Nach der Landung in (Ruandas Hauptstadt) Kigali vertrauten wir uns zwei Boda-Boda (Motorrad) Fahrern an, die uns flott zum nahgelegten Hostel bringen sollten. Was folgte war jedoch absolutes Chaos. Denn unsere Annahme die Fahrer würden unser Hostel kennen, bzw. zumindest untereinander kurz Absprache halten, stellte sich als naiv heraus. Und so verloren wir uns irgendwo auf der Strecke und weder mein Bodafahrer konnte seinen Kollegen erreichen oder ich Corinna, da wir beide nicht ins örtliche Mobilfunknetz eingewählt waren. Glücklicherweise kam zumindest ich am Hostel an und wählte mich ins örtliche WLAN-Netz ein. Corinna hatte jedoch schwer zu kämpfen, da ihr erstaunlicherweise weder Englisch noch Französisch bei den mittlerweile in größerer Anzahl versammelten Gruppe an Bodafahrern weiterhelfen konnte. Nach über einer halben Stunden Wartezeit konnten sie mich aber glücklicherweise (über den Internetzugang eines ein freundlichen, der englischen Sprache mächtigen, Passanten) erreichen. Nachdem wir wieder vereint waren, erfuhren wir zu allem Überfluss dann noch, dass meine (zwei Monate zuvor ausgeführte) Buchung nicht im System vermerkt war. Doch glücklicherweise war das Personal vor Ort sehr entgegenkommend und uns wurde eine nahgelegene Pension zu gleichen Konditionen angeboten. 
      Da Kigali nur der Zwischenstopp auf unserer Reise in den Volcanoes National Park war, hatten wir uns lediglich einen Programmpunkt (für den darauffolgenden Vormittag) vorgenommen: das Genocide Memorial. Die Gedenkstätte mit Museum behandelt einen sehr dunklen Teil der ruandischen Geschichte, den im Jahr 1994 eskalierte Völkermord an den Tutsis, die sich selber als höher gestellte “Rasse” ansahen. Trotz der schrecklichen Bilder und Erzählungen hat das Museum einen guten Aufbau und setzt thematisch wichtige Impulse, inklusive der Beschäftigung mit anderen grausamen Völkermorden auf unserem Planeten.
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