Serbia
Belgrade

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86 travelers at this place:

  • Day26

    Beim serbischen Bullen in Belgrad

    October 15, 2019 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Belgrad hat architektonisch und in puncto klassischer Sehenswürdigkeiten im Vergleich zu meinen vorherigen Destination quasi nichts zu bieten und doch hat mir die "weiße Stadt" besser gefallen als diese. Es gibt kaum Touristen, dafür überwiegend junge Menschen, die auf eine so unverfälschte Art und Weise offenherzig, neugierig und freundlich sind, dass ich spontan ein bisschen länger geblieben bin, um die Melancholie der Stadt zu genießen. Der nach einer Rakija-reichen Nacht nur noch "der serbische Bulle" genannte Hostelbesitzer Nikola hat sich hervorragend um seine Gäste gekümmert. Seine Nachbarin hat mir die Haare geschnitten und Nikola selbst hat mir schon bei meiner Ankunft versichert, dass mein Motorrad in diesem Viertel unter seinem persönlichen Schutz stünde. Er sollte sein Wort halten. Ein VW-Fahrer hatte wohl weniger Glück mit der Wahl seines Unterschlupfes ... Bei ihm wurden über Nacht ein paar Teile geerntet.

    Weg von der Hauptstadt und quer durch Serbien mach ich mich auf in eine sehr abgeschiedene Region an der Grenze zum Kosovo.
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  • Day14

    The Balkan Express

    June 17, 2018 in Serbia ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    The Cyrillic alphabet is used throughout Bulgaria with very few concessions in English. Accordingly, in Sofia station only numbers are an indication of where you should be and when. The train departure board indicated that my train number was leaving at platform 4 so I made my way there only to find it deserted. The only passengers I could see were a couple of Norwegian backpackers on platform 5, so back down the stairs and along the underground passage and back up the stairs I eventually found my train there. The International Balkan Express consisted of only two carriages, both filthy, littered and covered in graffiti. There appeared to be only 6 passengers on board this once per day international train, so why reservations were essential was beyond me. I eventually found a seat at a window with minimal graffiti which I could actually see out of. Looking around I wished I had packed the G Tech vacuum cleaner Mum had bought us, to freshen the place up a bit. The toilet had no lock, seat, toilet paper, soap or towels and was already blocked before we left Sofia. I can safely say this is the dirtiest train I have ever had the misfortune to travel on. Given there were no catering facilities again on this lengthy journey, I had fortunately stocked up with provisions including what looked like a 4 pack of Greggs sausage rolls mounded into one, with the sausage meat cut up into bits. It was filling if nothing else.

    Again we were stopped at the Bulgarian border for passport checks, and the Border Police ordered passengers to stay in their seats while they searched the whole train - luggage racks, toilets, even ceiling panels and electrical equipment areas were removed by screwdrivers and meticulously searched. A similar procedure took place a little later at Dimitrovgrad as we entered Serbia. Two of the other passengers turned out to be train buffs from Dublin (one of them a driver on the Maynooth-Dublin train, Jennifer) who were excited when the Bulgarian engine shunted off and was replaced by its Serbian counterpart.

    As the train meandered across Serbia at a leisurely pace, the scenery became more mountainous and dramatic, and for a while followed the scenic route of a muddy, brown river. The heat rose, and by early afternoon the smell in the compartment had deteriorated. A Serbian couple a few seats in front fortunately managed to screw open a few windows. She then proceeded to strip off her top half standing in her bra for a good 10 minutes enjoying a cigarette (yes!) before fanning herself and putting her top back on. She had clearly never heard of deodorant.

    Serbia is not included in the list of countries where you can benefit from using your mobile phone at the same rate as your agreement allows in the UK. Neither was I offered the same deal of unlimited calls, texts and data for £4.99 by o2 as you are in some other countries. At £2 per minute per call, the phone would stay off until I got WiFi.

    Eventually, 11 hours after it left Sofia, the Boggin’, sorry Balkan, Express limped into Belgrade, Serbia. I was never so glad to disembark.
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  • Day15

    Belgrade, Serbia

    June 18, 2018 in Serbia ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    The 2 star Bristol Hotel in Belgrade where I was spending two nights is certainly faded grandeur. A bit tired and run down, it still exuded a certain old fashioned charm. And at a total of only £28 for two nights including free WiFi and breakfast how could I complain? It does have have a remarkable history, built in 1912 it is said to represent the pinnacle of Secessionist architecture in the city. Apparently at one time it was the centre of fashionable life in the whole of the former Yugoslavia, and previous guests have included members of the Rockefeller family and the British Royal family.

    I set off on a walking tour of the city. A bit down at heel in places, Belgrade reminded me a bit of Glasgow - lots of lovely buildings but you had to seek them out. A climb up to the Belgrade Fortress rewarded me with fabulous views of the confluence of the city’s two great rivers - the Sava and the Danube. Ah, the Blue Danube, or as my Big Granny used to call it, the Blue Daniel. A circular tour on the No. 2 tram helped me get my bearings. I had a delicious Serbian lunch sitting outside - pork chops with a creamy, mushroom sauce. When a thunderstorm arrived in the afternoon, I sought refuge in the beautiful Hotel Mockba (Moscow) where I enjoyed afternoon tea. It’s a hard life, but someone has to do it!

    The Church of Saint Sava is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. Although it is bigger than the one I saw yesterday, the Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia, the interior is quite unfinished, and I much preferred the Sofia version.

    Well, I have walked my feet off today. Belgrade may not be my favourite city, but perseverance paid off and I enjoyed seeking out some of its treasures.
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  • Day9

    Cloudy Belgrade

    August 14, 2019 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Belgrade has turned out to be one of the best stops so far. We wish we had another night here.

    The apartment we had for the night was gorgeous and the shower was simply fantastic. Our host, Borjan, was really nice. He picked us up from the train and even drove us to the other station so that I could buy tickets. Tonight he is going to take us to the station and he’s storing our luggage for us so that we can go out without the burden of lugging around our bags.

    Belgrade is a beautiful city, and the fact it’s a cloudy day means we aren’t sweating 😅 It’s lovely to not be pouring in sweat for a change.

    We visited the fort overlooking the Danube and St. Michael’s Cathedral, which was simply stunning.

    Tonight we are supposed to be taking to night train directly to Ljubljana, but if it’s as slow as the last one, we may skip Slovenia and go straight to Zagreb. Let’s see how it goes...
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  • Day34

    Berlin of the Balkans

    October 2, 2017 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The fact that we came up against the town sign of Belgrade almost 20km before our hostel in the city center, made us aware of the size of this city. Novi Grad (the new town) welcomed us with new buildings made from steel and glass while on the eastern side of the holy river Save, the old fortress at the outlet into the Danube and a mixture of a few remaining pre-war and concrete buildings are dominating.

    We did not expect too much of the Church of Saint Sava, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, as the inside is still under construction. However, the outer appearance of it (inspired by the Taj Mahal?) and even more the crypt are impressive. We can hardly imagine how it will look like when it is finished and provides space for more than 10,000 people.

    Rakija enriched with honey sweetened our days walking around, exploring the fortress and discovering delicious food in the countless bakeries - and for some reason, Belgrade, 'The White City' reminded us of Berlin.
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  • Day6

    Tvrdjava - auf der Festung

    September 23, 2019 in Serbia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Die Festung ist DIE Sehenswürdigkeit von Belgrad. Von Besiedelungsbeginn an befand sich auf dem Kalemegdan genannten Plateau immer eine Befestigungsanlage. Die jetzige Anlage geht auf die Österreicher ab 1717 zurück, die Türken erweiterten und bauten um. Die umgebenden Mauern sind erhalten - hier findet sich ein Dinopark und ein Waffenmuseum -, die Innenanlage ist weitgehend verschwunden, hier finden sich großzügige Parkanlagen.
    Von oben hat man einen herrlichen Blick auf den Zusammenfluss von Save und Donau und auf die Neustadt Novi Beograd.
    Hier oben findet sich auch der Siegesbote, ein nackter Mann mit einem Falken in der Hand, der 1928 aufgestellt wurde und zum Wahrzeichen Belgrads geworden ist.
    Hier oben machen wir auch erstmalig in unserer bisherigen Reisehistorie Bekanntschaft mit Taschendieben, die schon die Hand an der Rittertasche (mit den Tempotaschentüchern) hatten...
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  • Day6

    Kathedrale

    September 23, 2019 in Serbia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Mittlerweile sind wir 2 1/2 Stunden unterwegs, es ist zwar bedeckt, aber schwülwarm, und es wird Mutti langsam ein bisschen viel, also machen wir uns langsam auf den Rückweg zum Hafen und zum Schiff. Die Kathedrale des Erzengels Michael liegt quasi auf dem Weg. Errichtet wurde sie zwischen 1836 und 1845 unter Fürst Milos Obrenovic, der hier auch begraben liegt. Wie oft in orthodoxen Kirchen ist auch hier wieder fotografieren verboten, deshalb nur ein heimliches Foto der goldenen Pracht aus der Hüfte. Direkt gegenüber befindet sich die Residenz des Patriarchen.
    Für den restlichen Rückweg wählen wir die Direttissima, runter sind die 110 Stufen dann gar nicht so schlimm 😉.
    Pünktlich zum Mittagsbuffet sind wir zurück, der Rest des Tages wird gemütlich.
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  • Day207

    Belgrad

    October 11, 2019 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Belgrad ist die Hauptstadt Europas, die die meisten Schlachten zu verzeichnen haben. 44 x (!) wurde die Stadt zerstört.
    Heute machen wir einfach eine Free Walking Tour, um ein wenig über die Geschichte der Stadt zu lernen.

  • Day6

    Trg Republika

    September 23, 2019 in Serbia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Bereits in der Bronzezeit war der Hügel am Zusammenfluss von Save und Donau bewohnt. Der Name Beo Grad, weiße Burg, wurde erstmals 878 urkundlich erwähnt. Hier waren sie alle, die Griechen, die Kelten, die Römer usw. Seit 1284, als der ungarische König Stephan V. den Ort an Fürst Dragutin übergab, gilt er als Zentrum des Serbentums. Unzählige Male wurde Belgrad im Laufe seiner Geschichte erobert und zerstört, zuletzt im Jahr 1999 im Jugoslawienkrieg durch Luftangriffe der NATO. Eine echte historische Altstadt findet man daher in Belgrad nicht.
    Unser nächster Anlaufpunkt ist der Platz der Republik. In Erwartung sozialistischer Betonklötze sind wir positiv überrascht, ob des Ensembles aus Nationalmuseum, Nationaltheater und modernem Kulturpalast. Der bronzene Reiter ist Fürst Milos Obrenovic, der die Türken besiegt und Serbien in die Unabhängigkeit geführt hat.
    In der Belgrader Innenstadt findet sich viel Streetart und neben schön hergerichteten Gebäuden genau so viele, die dringend eine Restaurierung benötigen würden.
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Belgrade, Belgrad, በልግራድ, بلغراد, Belgradu, Белград, Beograd, Bělehrad, Бѣлъ Градъ · Срьбїи, Βελιγράδι, Beogrado, Belgrado, Bèlgrade, בלגרד, Běłohród, Belgrád, Բելգրադ, BEG, ベオグラード, ბელგრადი, 베오그라드, Belogradum, Belgradas, Belgrada, Belehrad, Beogradi, பெல்கிறேட், بېلگراد, 贝尔格莱德

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