Central Serbia

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  • Day7


    August 8 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C


    After another early morning visit to the spa, I enjoyed a delicious breakfast - the best to date on this trip.

    Regrettably I only had a short time in Belgrade - Serbia’s capital, situated at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. I had visited the city before and had spent some time exploring it, so it was just a flying visit this time. Belgrade can initially impress as a rather forbidding city, but you can’t help but marvel at its great Soviet monoliths and art nouveau masterpieces. The hotel Mockba / Moskva / Moscow is an art nouveau icon dating from 1908. It was formerly the Rossiya Palace, and acted as the Gestapo headquarters during World War 2. Its famous residents have included Alfred Hitchcock, Albert Einstein, Novak Djokovic, Frank Sinatra, Tom Hanks, Alain Delon, Audrey Hepburn and Robert Fyfe.

    I enjoyed a morning walk around Belgrade centre, taking in Republic Square, the Serbian Parliament and Topcider Gardens. I then made my way to the Nikola Tesla airport to catch the Air Serbia flight to my next destination - Skopje, North Macedonia.
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    Helen Laing

    Sounds interesting and nice to have time to chill out x

    Margaret Morris

    Your having a fantastic trip Robert. Enjoying your very interesting and informative blogs. 🥰

    Ken Christie

    Fantastic trip and most interesting blogs . Photos superb

    Margaret Watt

    What an interesting trip Robert. Sounds great. X

  • Day7

    Montenegro to Serbia Train Trip

    August 8 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C


    After a good night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast at the Hotel Agape, Bar (not a burek or cevapi in sight!) Danilo called me a taxi, carried my luggage, and bid me a very pleasant trip. He obviously did not train at the Yugoslavian School of Hospitality.

    The Bar - Belgrade train journey is described as one of the most scenic in Europe, and was one of the highlights of the trip which I had been looking forward to. It’s a marvel of engineering with 254 tunnels and 435 bridges. Construction started in the 1950s but was only completed in 1976, and was opened by President Tito himself.

    My single ticket to cover the length of this marathon 11.5 hour journey cost only 21 Euros - a real bargain. Bar station has one café which only sold drinks. When I expressed surprise that there was no buffet car on board, the proprietrix responded ‘well, you should be prepared!’ Thank goodness for the doggy bag of Wiener (pork) schnitzel and the free water I brought from the hotel.

    As is sadly common in many East European trains, the train itself was covered in graffiti - no Orient Express this! As I said there were no catering facilities on board, and the toilets left a lot to be desired. Safe to say, I was glad I had brought my own supply of wet wipes and hand sanitizer! For some reason since COVID, this international train has been reduced to 3 carriages, which made little sense as it was packed. To complicate matters, the website recommended ignoring seat reservations and sitting anywhere. This caused quite a few heated arguments between local folk and backpackers, with much in the way of high raised voices and even higher raised arms.

    However, we were here for the journey - and what a spectacular one it was! Although an older train, the seating was plush and comfortable, and I wisely followed the advice and sat on the left hand side to enjoy the best views. After following the Adriatic coast on leaving Bar, the train soon moved inland, skirting Lake Skadar. Then a gradual climb into the mountains, higher and higher and crossing over what was, until recently, the highest railway bridge in Europe. Plunging into numerous tunnels of varying lengths at such great heights, you couldn’t help but wonder how the railway came to be built. After a while, the rugged bare mountains gave way to rolling tree-covered hills, and then green valleys dotted with small homesteads. There is an excellent 10 minute video on YouTube with the highlights of this wonderful train trip for anyone who is interested (warning, there is a bit when the train hits and kills a horse! 😞 ).

    Amazingly the train arrived at Belgrade’s Centar Station only 10 minutes late after a fantastic 11.5 hour long trip. I took a taxi to my favourite hotel in Belgrade - The Mockba (Moscow). I was in time to enjoy the last hour in the beautiful Wellness Spa, and had the place all to myself - a wonderful way to soak and relax after one of the most memorable train journeys I have been on.
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    Aileen Johnston

    Sounds like a very scenic last few days. Love the pictures

    Donna Laing

    Oh love the sound of that journey xx

  • Day6

    Montenego - Kotor / Bar

    August 7 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Satisfied that I had exhausted the touristic potential of the capital, I felt it was time to escape Podgorica to another part of Montenegro. The Hotel Kerber had been fine in that old fashioned Yugoslavian way, right down to the unsmiling staff, but it was time to move on. On checking out, I commented on the lack of electricity the night before, and the receptionist grimaced and shrugged and said: ‘Well, that happens’. Have a nice day to you too, Miss!

    I decided to take the morning bus on the two hour trip to the Montenegrin coast and the resort of Kotor. Once again the scenery was amazing as we climbed high into the mountains, before descending into the Bay of Kotor with fabulous views of the resort area, including the Old Town. Apparently it’s been described as southern Europe’s most spectacular fjord. I dumped my luggage at the Garderoba and headed straight to the beach. At last I was able to cool off from the searing heat in the beautiful waters of the Adriatic Sea. I could have stayed in the sea all day. So this why so many folk flock to Montenegro! The beaches were certainly packed with sun-worshippers from all over Europe. I enjoyed a tasty Chinese lunch overlooking the Bay, before exploring the very pretty, if touristy, Old Town. Stray cats basked in the sun, and I was sorry not to have time to visit the Cats Museum, home to all things feline, in tribute to the moggies who have been part of this area since its seafaring days.

    Time to be on the move again, and I caught the (typically late) afternoon bus to Bar. The trip down the Adriatic coast was beautiful, allowing glimpses of various resorts, including Sven Stefan - a fortified island now part of the luxurious Aman resort, and apparently Montenegro’s most photographed site. I’m afraid my photo from a busy, bumpy bus does not do it justice.

    Tonight I was staying at a more upmarket hotel - the 4 star Agape Hotel in Bar town centre. It was pure luxury to get out of the heat, shower and change, and enjoy the surroundings of this newly opened hotel. Danilo, the friendly young man on reception suggested a walking route round the town and recommended a good restaurant for dinner. Bar is really a Port Town where you can catch the Bar - Bari ferry (Montenegro to Italy). It seems a bit more down-at-heel than some of the other resorts in the area, but still possesses a lengthy, busy city beach with the usual assortment of bars and cafés. Indeed a rock concert, Summer Under The Stars, was on the night I visited. Some improvements have been made in the town centre such as dancing water fountains, which delighted the kids. The church of St Jovan Vladimir looked stunning, with the evening sunshine reflecting off its (real gold) domes. If you like brutalist architecture (which I do!) Robna Kuca mall was a great example of a concrete shopping area, and Danilo’s recommendation of the Marnar (Seaman) restaurant was a good one. Lovely surroundings and ample portions made this an obvious family favourite place to eat. My Wiener Schnitzel was very tasty though huge (and suspicially more like pork than veal). A doggie bag was in order for tomorrow’s long journey!
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  • Day63

    Belgrade, Serbia

    August 1 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    We made it to the capital of Serbia (not Siberia - I have to keep reminding myself that). The kids had a rough car ride this go around, which means our grown up energy was lower than usual. The normal kid things, "she looked at me" or " she's touching me" kind of things. Everyone was ready to get out of the car. We decided to take them to a park, feed them and the venture to the zoo before checking into our hotel.

    The girls decided they would nickname this zoo either "The Zoo of White Animals" or "The Wolf Zoo." This zoo had white lions, white tigers, white wolves, fancy white birds and white swans. Dozens of large artic wolves were spread throughout the zoo. One of them even had a baby and it was so cute! The girls were surprised to find a momma kangaroo with a little baby joey just chilling in her pouch. It was so adorable. Something a bit less cute, but still memorable was watching a hippo splatter poop all over the wall. My favorite animal, the peacock, just roamed as they pleased throughout the zoo grounds. And once we were caught off guard by a beautiful rooster hanging out behind a bush. We also saw a full grown bermise python, which reminded me how glad I am that Seth did not keep his snakes I bought him years ago. Too big for me!

    The zoo was built within old fortress walls, so you could see this cool fortress while touring the zoo. Along one of the fortress walls there was a stone ramp with ponies. One of the ponies just trotted right up to the girls and nuzzled Addy through the cage. Pretty fun! It made for a unique layout for sure. It also offered a cafe (with actual good coffee) and ice cream around every turn. They were strategic about some of these and placed one near the petting zoo and playground, so parents could relax. We definitely took advantage of this. Lastly, we hit the park. We had to pull them away for check-in, but it was fun while it lasted.

    This zoo made them miss their NC cousins, because it had some of Ada and Mae's favorite animals! We love and miss those girls!

    We ended our day with a second ice cream (made from unicorn rainbow milk) and a real burger with a bun! We have not seen a burger with a bun in quite sometime, because here a burger is just the meat usually.

    Everyone went to bed surprisingly early, despite their second ice cream. Tomorrow we are off yet again to see another piece of Serbia.
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    Mark Blanck

    wait... That's not a tree!

    Mark Blanck

    Serbian tree

    Mark Blanck

    Cover Girl

    6 more comments
  • Day62

    Zlatibor, Serbia

    July 31 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    T E N countries and T W O months into this adventure!

    Driving down the mountain in Montenegro was even more interesting than going up. Seth tried to find a path through (remember we are off the map) instead of going back six kilometers away from the border. We ran out of pavement and continue on a gravel road of switchbacks. Once the gravel ran out, it was a narrower dirt road. We came to a muddy section from the previous night's storm and decided that was the end. Now to travel back the almost eight kilometers. First he had to back up about 500 meters to get to a switchback wide enough to turn around. While he backed down the hill on this narrow road lined with trees and ditches, Addy closed her eyes nervously. He eventually found a place to turn around and we made it down without incident.

    As we left Montenegro and entered Serbia, we saw many stray dogs roaming around. I believe at the border alone, we saw eight. Most homes we passed in smaller towns or in the country looked seemingly unfit to live in and potentially dangerous, but they seemed to get by. We saw people toting empty jugs and buckets to fill at water spickets everywhere we went. I am not sure if the source is a lovely, magical spring or if possibly their homes are not fully plumbed. We have read the tap water is drinkable, but who knows. Maybe we will test this information.

    We drove passed a few large fallen rocks and many more small ones that would really have been a bummer if they hit us. We managed to brave the mountainous highways of Serbia unscathed. Due to the mountains, we trekked through lots and lots of tunnels. I mean a lot! No matter what was happening in the car at the moment we met a tunnel, everyone would take a deep breath and hold it until the end or as far as we could. These tunnels were quite possibly the only time we heard silence the entire trip, so far. Funny, but true! Mabel often somehow "held her breath" through every tunnel beating us all. She would declare she made it with great pride. She was keeping her cheeks puffed up and completely silent, pretty stinkin' cute!

    We entered into Zlatibor Hills area, which is a ski town. Wow! This town was a stark difference from the communities we just drove through.

    This place was very nice, clean and surrounded by fields, forests, hiking paths and a few cows. The weather was drastically cooler and all our ladies needed their sweaters. We meandered around town, ate some treats, rode some random fair rides, and hiked through the woods.

    We let the girls each choose a treat as we walked through the city. Demi was considering something called a Bubble Waffle. This was a waffle that looked as if it was baked in one of those kid's Pop It toys rolled up with ice cream and cookies inside. It looked delicious, but she still wanted to look around before ordering. After looking at all the options, we returned to get this unique tasy treat, but they were closed!!! We waited and waited just in case they were just on a break. Seth told her jokingly that often the trick is: go buy another treat from a different place, once you can no longer have the thing you really want, then it will magically be open again and you can't get it. We finally gave up after about 20 minutes. They walked to get another treat at the opposite end. They had us wait and watch Bubble Waffle, just in case it opened. It DID! Addy ran to tell them and caught them just before ordering from the other place! Demi got her special treat after all and Seth was right! Ha ha!

    The fields and woods were just so peaceful and offered options for hiking just steps away from our apartment. The girls had so much fun exploring. Mabel road a "horse" named Appoloosa, as shown in the pictures. She has said on several occasions, when pretending to be a horse, that she wished that Appoloosa was her real name. Then she changed her horse into a fighting stick to face the wolves. She said, "Mom, if a wolf comes, I am gonna fight them, but only the means ones."
    She is hilarious.

    Addy knew I wanted to capture some photos near the woods and was adorable taking initiative to help me by posing readily for me.

    Demi and Seth raced ahead of us deeper into the woods. "Appoloosa" did not want to run and had to drink some water, so we moved slothfully. Demi gathered pine cones. Demi decided to spell out DeMille and Dad on the forest floor. She adores her Daddy.

    I think we all could have stayed a little longer in Zlatibor Hills with the lovely location, great apartment, perfect weather and gorgeous woods around us, BUT we were off to see more of Serbia!

    Oh ya, I forgot... This is the first country where someone got the Princess Bride movie reference on Seth's shirt. "My name is Inigi Montoya. You killed my father, prepare to die!" Several people have commented on it, but not gotten it. This girl must be cool too, because she feels that all people should watch that movie and we agree.

    P.S. - I keep having to correct myself, because my brain wants to say Siberia.
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  • Day6

    Erste gemeinsame Veloetappe

    June 23 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Der Tag fing gut an mit einem Morgenbad im See und einem Kaffee vom Feuer.

    Natürlich wollten wir den Tara NP nicht verlassen ohne einen der zahlreichen Aussichtspunkte zu erwandern. Doch der Nebel kam, aus mit der Sicht, Punkt…

    Werner und Remo nahmen danach die erste gemeinsame Etappe unter die Räder und bereits nach einigen Kilometern mussten sie das Werkzeug auspacken und wieder einmal die Speichen nachziehen.

    Karin fuhr schon mal mit dem Bulli voraus und hat einen Platz mit Schwimmbad zum Übernachten gefunden.

    Als es schon fast dunkel war, fuhr ein Auto zu uns heran und ein Mann mit Handy am Ohr kam auf uns zu. Von seinem serbischen Wortschwall haben wir leider nur „Kamera“ und „privat“ verstanden, doch seine Handzeichen machten deutlich, dass wir uns ein neues Plätzli suchen sollten zum Schlafen.
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    Aleks Trailovic

    Hätsch mer könna alüta i übersetzta 😉😂

    Antje Sommer

    Nanu, wo hast du das Radel hergezaubert 🤔

  • Day5

    Wiedersehen mit Remo

    June 22 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Nach 1’500 km haben wir Remo im Tara NP in Serbien eingeholt. Wir haben uns sehr auf das Wiedersehen gefreut und werden ihn nun ein paar Tage mit dem Fahrrad begleiten.

    Ein steiler und schmaler Waldweg führte uns an einen wunderschönen Platz zum Übernachten am Zaovine Stausee.

    Nach dem obligaten Holzsammeln gab es einen feinen Znacht aus der Gusspfanne. Wir hatten uns viel zu erzählen.
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    Stefan Sommer

    Das ist ja schön !!! Liebe Grüße

    Breiter's on Tour

    Do sind die Offroadkürsli wieder emol voll zum Zug cho👍😜


    Würklich es igspielts Team! Gnüssed dZiit zämä:)

  • Day23

    Sonnenbank Flavour

    April 27 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Jagodina - Nis
    95 km / 534 hm

    Der Tag beginnt, wie der gestrige geendet hat - beim Schlemmen im Blauregen-Paradies 🌸. Wir bekommen serbische Pita aufgetischt und setzen die Unterhaltung mit der liebevollen Jagodiner Urgestalt fort 🙂 Vollkommen satt rollen wir gen Osten - ein ständiges auf und ab beginnt 🎢 Die Serpetinenabfahrten mit Top speed bei 63km/h entschädigen für die vorher erkämpften Höhenmeter 🏎🏎
    Nachdem wir die 2.000 km voll gemacht haben, genießen wir den Paukenschlag bei einem Eis 🍦
    Unser Schlafgemach finden wir in einer Wiese mit ein paar Sträuchern als Sichtschutz. Musik an - Radler rein - Sonnenuntergang. Oft braucht es gar nicht mehr, um uns nach einem Tag auf dem Rad die Akkus wieder aufzuladen 😎
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    Jimbo Beobachter


    Haha nice. Deutschrap immer am Start [Spätzle]

  • Day29

    Novi Pazar

    April 25 in Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Einen letzten Stopp in Serbien legen wir für eine Nacht in Novi Pazar ein bevor es in den Kosovo geht. Die Stadt mit knapp 60’000 Einwohner ist das kulturelle Zentrum der in Serbien lebenden Muslimen und machen rund 80% der Bevölkerung aus und da momentan mit dem Ramadan auch noch Fastenmonat ist, hat vieles geschlossen. Viel machen kann man hier nicht. 1, 2 Gassen sind ganz nett, aber mehr als einen Tag hält es uns hier nicht. So schlimm wie es in diversen Berichten online nachzulesen ist, finden wir es hier aber nicht. Nach Sonnenuntergang strömen die Leute in die Restaurant’s und auch wir gönnen uns wieder mal einen Döner in einem der unzähligen Döner Läden.

    Nach rund 2 Wochen in Serbien verlassen wir das Land nun und mit dem Kosovo erwartet uns ein für beide neues Land. Unser Bus ab Novi Pazar hat dann nach der Grenze kurz nach Mitrovica eine Panne und wir steigen in einen kleinen Taxi-Bus um. Es geht aber nicht lange bis es unter unseren Füssen rumpelt und auch dieser Bus stoppt mitten auf der Autobahn. Der Ersatzpneu unter dem Auto hat sich gelöst und rollt quer über die Autobahn. Glücklicherweise bleibt aber alles unfallfrei und der Fahrer sammelt den Pneu ein, montiert ihn wieder und weiter geht die Fahrt. Willkommen im Kosovo :-)
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    Heidi Humburg

    Unglaublich was ihr erlebt….. aber es würde vielen gut tun , gelassenheit zu üben….. man stelle sich das bei uns vor…!es gäbe einen aufschrei, , von allen seiten

  • Day22

    Pizza gut - alles gut

    April 26 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Kovin - Jagodina
    133 km / 601 hm

    Der Tag beginnt mit einem Déjà-Vue - der geflickte Reifen war nicht ganz dicht 🙈. Nach ein bisschen Bastelei, rollen wir wie auf Schienen durch die 20 cm tiefen Spurrillen der Bundesstraße - quer durch das Rustbelt Smederevos. Danach wird die Staße ruhiger und wir durchqueren viele kleine Ortschaften, wo wir immer wieder Menschen zuwinken und zulachen - was die meisten nun auch mal erwidern 🙃. Mit dieser Euphorie kurbelt es sich, wie auf Wolken.
    Was uns hingegen nachdenklich macht, ist die Tatsache, dass in jeder zweiten Ortschaft tote Hunde direkt auf der Straße herumliegen und sich niemand verantwortlich fühlt ihnen die letzte Ehre zu erweisen 😔 Als wir die 100km-Schallmauer durchbrochen haben folgen noch zwei Feierabendanstiege & -abfahrten, die uns bis ans Tagesziel Jagodina bringen. Dort angekommen wollen wir nur eine Pizza und ab ins spontan gebuchte Hostel. Aber wir stolzieren direkt ins Paradies von Rose & Lola, die hier ein traumhaftes Restaurant eröffnet haben 🤩 Wir verstehen uns auf Anhieb super und werden nach dem Essen noch morgen zum gemeinsamen Frühstück eingeladen - so muss dat! 🥰
    Licht aus 💡
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    Andrea Kubowitz

    Jungs, ihr solltet euren LSF erhöhen 😉 Viel Spaß euch weiterhin!

    Jimbo Beobachter



You might also know this place by the following names:

Central Serbia, Serbie centrale, Центральная Сербия

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