Novi Sad

We had heard mixed reports about Novi Sad. A boring city or a vibrant city? We had no mobile service in Serbia, so we had to stop at a cafe to use their WiFi to connect with the host of our apartment. The parking outside the cafe was pay by app... from a Serbian phone number. We failed to buy a ticket from the nearest kiosk using mime language and then asked in the cafe. Consequently, our 1st impression of the city was A+ because before we even bought a coffee, the waiter asked for our registration number, pulled out his phone and paid for our parking. We rewarded him with a Chakra Shakers sticker and he was delighted. He explained that real, original music is celebrated among the young student population of Novi Sad. He had some recommendations of bars to try for live music during our stay.
This young, enthusiastic attitude was matched by the young lady who let me into the apartment. She was also called Natasha, a newly qualified vet, passionate about old school rock music. She said that the normal musical taste of her generation is pop or electronic but she much prefers the underground, alternative rock scene. What a wonderful coincidence. She happily recommended several venues in the town but warned that Thursday and Friday are bad days for live music?! I met her dentist mother on checkout who was so excited about our music that she offered us a free nights stay in return for a private concert. Sadly it never happened because she couldn't source a guitar.
One of the recommended bars advertised an open jam for that night. We stumbled across it on our walk into the city centre. We stopped in to learn more about the session. We were welcomed with open arms and offered a slot to play a full set the next night due to a cancellation. They set about trying to find us a drummer.
The city centre was a delight, close to a long meandering bank of the River Danube. No tourists around, just a leisurely population dominated by students. The buildings are pretty, if not stunning but it was refreshing to be in a real, living yet relaxed city. We enjoyed people watching from a shady bench in the square. We were delighted to find innocent second-hand shops. I say innocent because the prices were representative of second hand.... they are yet to learn that if they called themselves vintage they could charge the same as new retail outfits. Travelling with a small backpack and essentially cycling through 3 dresses and 3 pairs of knickers is wonderfully free..... but it is a treat to have a new 4th dress! A dress and a new t-shirt for Joe (finally a bit of colour and cheer!) was a mere 6€.
We made it to the jam session at Rebel Pub at 9pm. A couple of Russians were warming up. They explained that there has been a mass migration of young Russian men, who don't want to fight, to Serbia. They continue to work remotely. It's unlikely that they will ever be able to return to Russia. We popped up and played 4 songs with a legendary local guitarist, Green, and Sacha on drums. The rest of the jam had a very jazz funk feel to it, including a couple of 10 minute frantic, note rich numbers led by a tiny French young lady on Bass. She was a true master of her instrument but her personal competence sadly left the guitarists looking bemused and artistically restricted. A wonderful spectacle nonetheless. I noticed Green and other local musicians clock watching during this extended spot. No wonder because at 11pm exactly the stage was shut down. We sat to drink a beer with our new bearded chums, all local heroes in the music scene. They were so excited to hear of our desire to use music for travel and connection. They even gave us a gift. Another punter waited for us and took us up the street to a cool neighbourhood where a grunge tribute band was playing. The irony was rich that the dingy underground bar was booking grunge tribute acts instead of actual underground music.
On our way out of Novi Grad we crossed the river to check out the dominating fortress. The distinctive clock is called the Drunken Clock because the hour hand is larger than the minute hand. The very sensible idea being that sailors need to know the hour more than the minute! I had read that the lower bastions of the fortress house the largest independent art collective in Europe. It was charming but the galleries were closed for the holidays. Incongruously, the 'attics' above the studio are part of a 5* hotel. I guess that art pays well in Serbia. The grounds around the fortress are beautiful but it was too hot to explore on foot.... next time!
All in all, Novi Sad was one of my favourite stops on this trip. I highly recommend a trip there.Read more