Stari Grad

Satisfied that I had exhausted the touristic potential of the capital, I felt it was time to escape Podgorica to another part of Montenegro. The Hotel Kerber had been fine in that old fashioned Yugoslavian way, right down to the unsmiling staff, but it was time to move on. On checking out, I commented on the lack of electricity the night before, and the receptionist grimaced and shrugged and said: ‘Well, that happens’. Have a nice day to you too, Miss!

I decided to take the morning bus on the two hour trip to the Montenegrin coast and the resort of Kotor. Once again the scenery was amazing as we climbed high into the mountains, before descending into the Bay of Kotor with fabulous views of the resort area, including the Old Town. Apparently it’s been described as southern Europe’s most spectacular fjord. I dumped my luggage at the Garderoba and headed straight to the beach. At last I was able to cool off from the searing heat in the beautiful waters of the Adriatic Sea. I could have stayed in the sea all day. So this why so many folk flock to Montenegro! The beaches were certainly packed with sun-worshippers from all over Europe. I enjoyed a tasty Chinese lunch overlooking the Bay, before exploring the very pretty, if touristy, Old Town. Stray cats basked in the sun, and I was sorry not to have time to visit the Cats Museum, home to all things feline, in tribute to the moggies who have been part of this area since its seafaring days.

Time to be on the move again, and I caught the (typically late) afternoon bus to Bar. The trip down the Adriatic coast was beautiful, allowing glimpses of various resorts, including Sven Stefan - a fortified island now part of the luxurious Aman resort, and apparently Montenegro’s most photographed site. I’m afraid my photo from a busy, bumpy bus does not do it justice.

Tonight I was staying at a more upmarket hotel - the 4 star Agape Hotel in Bar town centre. It was pure luxury to get out of the heat, shower and change, and enjoy the surroundings of this newly opened hotel. Danilo, the friendly young man on reception suggested a walking route round the town and recommended a good restaurant for dinner. Bar is really a Port Town where you can catch the Bar - Bari ferry (Montenegro to Italy). It seems a bit more down-at-heel than some of the other resorts in the area, but still possesses a lengthy, busy city beach with the usual assortment of bars and cafés. Indeed a rock concert, Summer Under The Stars, was on the night I visited. Some improvements have been made in the town centre such as dancing water fountains, which delighted the kids. The church of St Jovan Vladimir looked stunning, with the evening sunshine reflecting off its (real gold) domes. If you like brutalist architecture (which I do!) Robna Kuca mall was a great example of a concrete shopping area, and Danilo’s recommendation of the Marnar (Seaman) restaurant was a good one. Lovely surroundings and ample portions made this an obvious family favourite place to eat. My Wiener Schnitzel was very tasty though huge (and suspicially more like pork than veal). A doggie bag was in order for tomorrow’s long journey!Read more