Singapore
Mount Pleasant

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    • Day 8

      Bukit Brown Cemetery

      December 8, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 91 °F

      Originally owned by Chinese clans, Singapore’s Bukit Brown became a public cemetery in 1922. Even so, the 212 acre expanse has been largely untouched since the 1970s.

      The jungle foliage provides a much needed wildlife corridor for a wide variety of species. During our visit, we encountered wild boar, and numerous butterflies and birds.

      A troop of rowdy monkeys came and chowed down on some food that cemetery party-goers left behind. I stayed out of the monkeys’ way, but it was quite a scene!

      Bukit Brown had a lot of warning signs, too. I stayed especially alert for cobras and wild dogs, but I didn't expect to see a warning about ghosts! (Look closely at the sign and you'll see what I mean.)

      And talk about grave goods! I often see a bit of food and drink left at burial sites, but many tombs in Bukit Brown bore evidence of major partying.

      At one point, I heard music and chanting in Chinese. Turns out that some of the graves have solar powered music. (Click on the video to hear it.) That’s a first for me.

      It would be fun to come here at night and see the ancestor worship in action.
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    • Day 9

      Desparately Seeking Great Grandma

      May 27, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      I reconnected with a long lost cousin after my dad's funeral. He told me that our great grandmother (my mother's paternal grandmother) was buried at Bukit Brown, a historically significant cemetery. Bukit Brown had fallen into disrepair before the turn of the century, but it returned to the national consciousness in the mid 2000s after part of it was earmarked for development. Many people were upset by the plans as Bukit Brown is a haven for birdlife, and also because many prominent Chinese from the colonial era were buried there.
      https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/bukit-brown…

      A little more than a decade ago, my cousin sought out our great grandmother's grave. With the help of amateur historians (I think of them more as amateur Lara Crofts LOL), he located her grave, and he hired a cemetery caretaker to clean it up. He gave me directions on how to find it.

      One morning, I contacted my friend Chris, whom I knew walked around Bukit Brown most mornings, and asked if he would join me on a little adventure to find my great grandmother's grave. He gamely said yes. He helped me locate the general area that my cousin marked out, and he spent some time with me trying to find her grave. Unfortunately, he had to leave after a while, and I spent some more time making my way through the overgrown vegetation to find the grave. Alas, I could not find it. I'm not sure if my cousin had done any upkeep on the grave since he first discovered it, and I was expecting it to look somewhere between the first two photos in this entry, but I did not find anything that resembled either photo.

      Despite the disappointment, I still had an interesting time exploring this historic site, and I am glad I took the time to do it. I did apologize to all the deceased laid to rest there for trampling around; I'm sure they'll forgive me since I was looking for my great grandmother.

      I have since contacted another amateur Lara Croft - a friend of a friend - and she said she will look for the grave next time she is there and send me a pin drop. Hopefully my next jaunt will be more successful with the pin drop.

      Included in this entry are photos of my great grandmother’s burial record, her obituary in the Straits Times, and a map of the area. All three photos are signs of the times:
      - The burial record showed how short lives were at the time.

      - The map indicates there was a paupers’ section. Indeed the graves there were modest. Apparently the British were appalled that poor Chinese weren’t buried, so they established the equivalent of a budget section, which is a little ironic given how class based British society was at the time.

      - Perhaps most disturbing of all was the obituary. My grandfather and his male siblings, along with where they worked, were named in the obituary. His sisters were not named, but their husbands were. Only male grandchildren were named. In short, all the women and girls remained anonymous.
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