Johannesburg

Saying goodbye to Mozambique, we board an early bus from Maputo to Johannesburg. In comparison to the other bus journeys we’ve taken, this bus can only be described as a 5-star hotel on wheels. Who knew travelling could be this luxurious!

We are a little nervous to arrive this late in the day because of the horror stories we’ve been told about Joburg. But are pleasantly surprised when we arrive in the district where we will be staying, Maboneng; a centre of creative energy for Johannesburg's urban artists. In our hipster hostel, Curiocity, and with murals on every building and an array of restaurants featuring Joburg’s craft beer scene, we feel right at home.

The next day we join a tour to learn about the history of Soweto and South Africa’s journey to freedom from Apartheid. Our guide, a lifelong resident of the township, gives us a brief history into what life was like in the township during Apartheid. He tends to go on rambles off topic and is slowly losing Katie’s interest. But it’s very interesting to learn: the history of Soweto really encapsulates the history of South Africa, and it’s great to see Soweto as it is now- an energetic place full of colour and life.

With our stomachs rumbling, we stop at a local restaurant to eat South Africa’s version of a chip butty. Otherwise known as a Kota, this was an oddly cut sandwich filled with chips, processed cheese, lettuce and topped off with an egg and some ketchup. Accompanied by a South African cider it’s not all that bad – albeit, not very healthy.

After filling up on grease, we dive back into the van to venture to our last stop of the day – The Apartheid Museum. With a little less than 2 hours on the clock we’re running late and are concerned about the time we’ll have in the museum as it’s advised to spend at least 3 hours here. It’s a bit of a shame that we have to rush- the exhibits are very powerful and do well to shed light on the struggles. It doesn’t hold anything back- a video near the end depicts a white South Africa giving details of his crimes to a tribunal. He describes in gory detail what he did to a woman, and where they buried her. It does end on a happier note though, with the elections of the ANC and the promise of a brighter future ahead.

The next day, we head to Constitution Hill. This is a former prison, now the highest court in South Africa. Our young guide is effusive and energetic, which stands at odds to the sombre location. He’s very charismatic and interesting, and does well to give us a clear picture of the horrific circumstances that black and coloured prisoners were subjected to, compared to the relatively nice conditions of the whites. At one point on the tour, he reveals that even he was brought up to hate the whites, his parents having been victims of apartheid. He’s optimistic about the future of South Africa, but acknowledges that will take time for the scars to heal.Read more