Spain
Agés

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    • Long Day. Long Walk.

      September 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 73 °F

      For the past four days, I have not felt well. I soldier on thinking I would get over whatever “it” is. But I haven’t, and after 29 km today I went to the Hospital by way of the Pharmacy. I am fine. I was given a prescription and I know I will feel better tomorrow.

      Mimi from Massachusetts (part of my Camino family), came to the hospital with me. We were dead-dog-tired, but she didn’t want me to go solo! She speaks Spanish which was extremely helpful. It is Saturday, and many pharmacies in Spain have doctors. So we’re off in a taxi to the Pharmacy. Well, as luck would have it—on Saturday most pharmacies close after noon. We found one open, but no doc, and the pharmacy advised us to go to the hospital.

      We didn’t have a long wait, but we were deliriously tired. Once I saw the doc ( apparently during a shift change so I heard “pronto” quite a bit), she examined me — sort of and after one test she confirmed what I thought was the problem and wrote an RX. Once again we were off in the taxi to fill the prescription and then to Albergue, several towns away where we are staying the night

      I am turning it in now. Burgos is tomorrow and I will take a day and a half off the trail to rest! Only 21 km (versus too many today)!

      I hope to post more about the experience than just about my day!

      Prayers were greatly appreciated (Marie thank you for asking for more on my behalf! ❤️) Now prayers of thanksgiving!

      Sweet dreams!
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    • Day 14

      San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

      April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

      195 miles done. 305 to go. 39% of the way done!

      From random conversations on the Camino with people from every corner of the earth, I can say that the world waits with bated breath what is happening and how the dramas will play out in the United States… Donald Trump, the world economy that rests on the shoulders of the US economy, the Israel/Palestine/Iran war, mass shootings and gun violence, and more. It’s an odd thing to feel both pride and shame for your country. I’ll be thinking on that a lot more I’m sure as I continue to meet pilgrims and be even more distanced via time from home.

      Today’s journey had every type of road surface. Giant rocks to traverse, gravel, grass, dirt, pavement… it was a long day of walking, 7 hours. But, I made it to my hotel just in time to learn they too also take siesta and didn’t open for a few more hours.

      FaceTimed with my parents and they were happy to see me alive and well. Drank wine in the park at a cafe. And caught up on news from around the world before checking into my hotel. Then it was time to get things done…laundry and shopping.

      My Altra Lone Peak 7 shoes simply couldn’t handle the demands of the Camino. I bought them in December and trained lightly with them, but the treads are now worn completely down on the heels, the padding inside the heels has been rubbed away, and the insoles became paper thin and hurt. Even buying new insoles didn’t save the day. Goodbye old friends. You served me well, but I’ll be contacting customer service with photos because you should have been able to last the journey with me at the very least.

      So, out with the old and in with the new. I found a great store with very knowledgable (and thankfully English speaking) staff who helped me find my new companions for the remainder of this wild journey: Merrell Agility Peak 5s. Pricey, but my feet are worth every penny if I’m to finish the Camino in the next few weeks.

      Best wine tonight of the entire Camino and supposedly only bottled for this restaurant. I’m challenging our good friend and wine connoisseur, Tom Wehr, to find this wine and import it by the case for me. Medium rare steak with a whipped roquefort butter is a heavenly combination worth trying to replicate at home. And finished with a cheese custard made with three cheeses from Spain, France, and Italy on a caramel drizzle base with brown butter crumble. Spoiled myself tonight. #worthit

      Rest day tomorrow in Burgos. Sightseeing at the cathedral, the castle, and museums.

      Night friends!
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    • Day 17

      Into Burgos

      October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      Today we walked from a town of 24 into a town of over 200,000! The first half of the walk was rural and quiet. The second half was along the side of a highway!

      We got to our hotel just a bit ago but we might just shower and walk over to the cathedral. It’s huge apparently!

      This is our last large city before we begin 5 or 6 days through La Meseta, rolling land where they grow wheat. Some people call it contemplative and some call it boring! Tomorrow we’ll find out.

      David’s health is almost all the way back to normal. I feel fine, but I am congested and have a cough. The weirdest thing is that about 95% of my voice is gone also. Luckily, they have pharmacies in big cities so I’m all stocked up on decongestants add throat, lozenges, and cough medicine!
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    • Day 16

      What goes up...must come down!

      September 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Belorado - Ages
      Day 13 - 28kms

      Day 13 was looking like a stinker with a huge climb ( 3rd steepest on the trail!) and a looong walk to get to Ages. However once the journey is broken down to smaller interesting parts, with the lovely forest walk, surprise food stalls, a couple of bulls on the path!!🐂🐂 nice coffee stop, lots of cute wee villages, and 4 kms from the finish line we stopped for beer and pizza! 🍻🍕 time went by just fine and we reached the gorgeous little town of Ages. We visited the beautiful church...and check out the birds nest on top!! Belongs to a white stork! Had a lovely " home style " cooked meal.
      So actually , another lovely day !!! 😆
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    • Day 20

      Tradycyjnie kilka extra fotek😊

      September 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      Parę roślinek, ale też ciekawe " zjawisko" w kościele Świętej Eulalii. Otóż pani która otwiera kościół ( poznaliśmy ją w ubiegłym roku) i przyjmuje datki za stempel, tym razem wzięła mnie za rękę ( chyba wzbudziłam jej sympatię) i poprowadziła mnie w miejsce( w tyle kościoła ) gdzie na ołtarzu w małym prostokątnym lustrze odbija się witrażowe okno na wysokości chóru z tyłu kościoła. Było ono widoczne tylko w tym jednym miejscu i nie uchwytne dla kamery telefonu, więc uwierzcie mi na słowo. Weszłam na chór i uwieczniłam to okienko na zdjęciu.... Zrobiło to na mnie duże wrażenie i poczułam się bardzo wyróżniona, że poznałam sekret kościoła świętej Eulalii, który już w ubiegłym roku zrobił na nas duże wrażenie....❤️Read more

    • Day 27

      The Seige of Burgos

      October 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      In 1812 the British Army fought the French and lost in the "Siege of Burgos" which lasted about 3 weeks. Fighting as a Private in the 60th Foot Regiment, was William Anderson. William was the brother of my great great great great great great grandfather George Anderson. Today I walked some of the same trails that William walked to arrive in Burgos in 1812.

      The 60th Foot Regiment came into Burgos from the east and spent most of their weeks in attack from the east and south. They lived in tents and ate a lot of pork or beef and vegetable soup.

      William was later wounded with a shot in the shoulder from a musket ball at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. He later went to India with the British Army. He never married and died back in Scotland.

      The Siege of Burgos was part of the Peninsula War which was part of the Napoleonic Wars. The Spanish, Portuguese and English fought the invading French. This is considered one of the Spanish wars of independence.

      I had a lovely dinner of lentils, meatballs and banana custard in a 400 year-old stable under a 400 year-old house.
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    • Day 17

      Day 15 - To Ages

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Day 15 - To Ages
      (pr. Ahes)
      28 kms; Difficulty 2/3

      Today was not a really nice day on the trail. It was uninteresting.
      28 km is a long way to walk at the best of times, with interesting landscapes for a distraction. I spent pretty much the whole day walking on gravel roads, like service roads, with bush on both sides. Pesky flies were constantly pestering me. There were no servicios for a 12 km stretch of the trail, yet one must continue drinking. I’m sure many people dipped into the bush, including me. But I was probably the only one that got bitten or stung by something on the back of my arm!!! And it hurt like hell….for a long time!! Don’t know what it was, but hope it wasn’t anything bad!

      Interesting looking sunrise with the clouds!
      The church in a particular town had an amazing backdrop!
      Photo of a monument of those that died in that community during Spanish Civil War.
      I have a couple pictures of part of the trail. You can see how the trail was essentially buried in the bush. The second one gives a closer-up look at how steep the other side of the valley was.
      A beautiful fern, three different colours showing three different stages of growth.
      This church was at a place called “San Juan de Ortega” on the way to Ages. It is named “Iglesia de San Juan de Ortega” after Juan Velasquez who is considered patron saint of innkeepers and also the saint of fertility. The church is home to his tomb.
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    • Day 20

      Ages

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Dzisiaj była tylko droga i myśli. Droga dała trochę wiatru, deszcz i bardzo dużą górę. Myśli dały dużo dobrego.
      Po dotarciu do Ages okazało się że tak naprawdę to nie ma internetu i nic nie można było zrobić.
      Na wzmiankę zasługuje parę rzeczy mianowicie w wiosce Villafranca niegdyś nazywanej Oca była siedzibą diecezji pod patronatem Sw. Idalecjio lokalnego męczennika ucznia Sw.Jakuba. Był on jednym z 7 kleryków wysłanych przez Piotra i Pawła aby uświęcać Hiszpanie czyli wiadomo I wiek. W miejscu tym działało hospicjum udzielające pomocy około 18000 pielgrzymów rocznie.
      Belorado również ma swojego świętego, San Vitores który zginął śmiercią męczeńską w 850 roku, miał on wtedy równe 50 lat. W tym czasie Hiszpanię zajmowali Maurowie i wielu ludzi z podbijanych terenów przechodziła na muzułmanizm. On próbował się temu przeciwstawić no i skończył jak skończył.
      Najpierw go ukrzyżowali ale żył przez 3 dni na krzyżu to go zdjęli z krzyża i ścięli mu głowę i też nie umarł. Podniósł swoją głowę szedł przez miasto i czynił cuda i mnóstwo ludzi nawróciło się. W końcu zamknął się w pustelni i tam zmarł. Jego święto obchodzone jest w Belgorado 26 sierpnia.
      Następna ciekawostka to San Juan de Ortega, kolega i współpracownik Sw. Dominika, razem z nim budował mosty, drogi i hospicja dla pielgrzymow. Jak właśnie ten w San Juan de Ortega, gdzie znajduje się jego grobowiec. Działał on głównie w okolicy bardzo niebezpiecznych górskich okolic Oca. Tu często dochodziło do napaści zbójów na pielgrzymów i do dzisiaj czuje się leciutkie napięcie idąc tamtejszymi lasami. Żył jako pustelnik i cieszył się dużą popularnością jako orędownik młodych niepłodnych kobiet. Najbardziej znaną osobą który modliła się u jego grobu była królowa Isabel de Catolica, która odwiedziła go aż dwa razy i dwukrotnie potem była w ciąży.
      Jego grobowiec który jest bardzo prosty był otwarty dwa razy z jakiegoś powodu i dwukrotnie po otwarciu wyleciały białe pszczoły i uwolnił się niezwykły(przyjemny) zapach.
      Samo Ages bardzo to mała wioseczka, z kilkoma Albergues i restauracjami, nawet bez sklepu spożywczego, ale bardzo urokliwa. Szczególnie urokliwy i tajemniczy wydał nam się kościół pod wezwaniem Świętej Eulalii z Meridy.... Którego zdjęcia dołączyliśmy.
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    • Day 15

      Day 15: Agés

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      We had a great 28 1/2 kilometer hike today, despite the drizzly gray weather that had us donning and stowing our ponchos more than once.

      We moved faster and with more ease in the morning and in the afternoon than we’ve done before, proof that we are getting a little bit stronger every day.

      My bottom bunk luck ran out today, however. We thought we were getting in to the Albergue Municipal Taberna de Agés on the early side, but all of the lower bunks in the dormitory had been taken.

      Unlike other places we’ve stayed, this albergue doesn’t assign bunks, so we didn’t have our usual “stack,” where I take the lower bunk bed and Allan takes the top. At least the top bunk has a railing, which isn’t always the case.

      Tomorrow we’ll walk 23 kilometers to Burgos, where we’ll take our first “rest day.”
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    • Day 17

      Agés

      September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Wowsa, can I mention how cold it was this morning?! 😳 We are usually so concerned with what the high temperature will be for the day that we neglected to look at the low temp for the morning. With it being Tom’s first day back walking, and having to cover 17 miles today, we made the wise decision to travel light and have our backpacks sent ahead. That means we did not have everything at our disposal when we started walking in shorts in 37 degree weather! 😫 Luckily we had a couple layers for the top half but suffered from 6:30-9:30 with freezing legs, hands and ears.

      Crazy that Tom made it to our destination on his bad foot while wearing a brand new pair of Teva sandals the whole way. It was touch and go there for a while and he felt every step but we made it!!

      Looking forward to dinner, sleep, and a walk into Burgos tomorrow where we will reunite with most of our Camino family who are a day ahead of us. We are anxious to spend a couple days there with friends and replenishing some basic supplies, including new shoes for Tom.

      Buen Camino!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Agés, Ages, 09199

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