Spain
Arcos, Los

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    • Day 10

      Los Arcos to Logrono

      August 31 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      Well that was a long one. The walk and this post!!!! Options were 12 miles or 18 plus. No surprise but Connor wanted to push to Logrono, the 18 mile option. Longest walk yet! Literally dragged myself in the night before on our 15 miler to Los Arcos so i was skeptical about 18. A couple of us sent our packs ahead to lighten the load with the extra distance and some climbs at the end. Definitely helped.

      I headed out early. I knew the day was going to be a push for me especially after every other hard day. Connor and i are butting heads only a little but he does not say much to me. I do love seeing him sharing himself with our Camino family but he just has nothing left when we are one on one, go to sleep or wake up. Sometimes i feel very alone. Leaving that particular morning i felt off and very isolated. I was in the middle of nowhere with the clothes on my back, a small fanny pack, a bottle of water and a phone. I think leaving my backpack behind to be sent forward stripped away that last connection to life outside the walk. Got a bit lost, literally and emotionally. Tears for no reason. Finally found the road out of town on the way to Logrono. Put it into high gear. I could make it by 3 if i kept a good pace. Minimal breaks and minimal brakes with no distractions.

      After i had already forward my backpack which commits you to a particular town with all my possessions, Connor started the day with foot pain and was limping badly. I found him on a bench along the way likely questioning his life choices. He said go on he would catch up. I tried to keep walking ahead but it is hard to go ahead when i know he was struggling and i worried. He did not want mom hovering over him. But i slowed way down too. Begged for ibuprofin from an unknown pilgrim for Connor and waked back to push him to take it. Lost the early cool hours and had more distance left in the afternoon heat. Ugh. Connor rallied as i knew he would and blew past the old lady. I did enjoy walking with him a bit and having first breakfast along the way together.

      Sometimes this experience feels so disconnected from my life. This day to Lograno ran the full spectrum. Alone and adrift, back to the reality of parenting someone who is no longer a child but not yet a fully functional independent adult and loving someone so much that it breaks you to see them hurting physically and struggling emotionally. I can’t fix everything anymore but it is important to me that he knows i wish i could and that i will try my best. I think it is important to him for me to know he can take care of himself and these 2 desires exist together somewhat tumultuously.

      The mornings are nice especially if you get an early start and get the miles under your belt before the worst of the heat. I hold up pretty well but dehydration becomes such a factor on shadeless high heat sections. The last 6 miles were full sun, minimal to no shade, hot and hot with no bars or cafes to rest up. It was a push. Reached our beds and crashed. Met friends for snacks and gelato. Lovely Sunday night. The streets in old town were flooded with families, people and kids playing. It was lovey but we only lasted a short time as we both had to lay down.

      Taking a rest day. Need to do laundry. Process my existence. Update this app before i forget everything.
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    • Day 10

      Villamayor de Monjardin to Los Arcos

      September 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Only 12 km today through perfectly overcast skies, flat roads and finally meeting up with our German and Italian Camino Family who took a rest day in Pamplona. Que bueno! Today's Camino is brought to you by perfection,adopting children, baby goats, cheese in a vending machine, family, and also.........two Canadians, a Dutchie, a German and an Italian walk into a bar to get Paella.....the rest is history.Read more

    • Day 36

      Los Arcos to Vienna to Logrona

      September 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      I cut a long walking day into 2 short ones in hopes of saving my feet, but that was all in vain as I hobbled into the large city of Logrona on blistered and bloodied feet. I checked into the first hotel with a bathtub and gave them a good soaking (along with all my clothes!) I'll be here 2 days as they heal...giving them lots of TLC!Read more

    • Day 14–15

      Stormy weather

      May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      Today we are officially one week in the Camino, walking around 135km, and it was an adventure. We left the Casa Magical albergi behind early for an action packed 25 k walk to Los arcos with Trina, Kathy from Atlanta and our Dutch friend Fred from Netherlands.

      It was a beautiful day with lovely weather until we got the last 8 km in an open stretch with no services, water, homes or protection. Just vineyards, Olive groves, a wine fountain, an artist camp, farmland and wilderness, all beautiful, exept our approach leading us closer to the ominous storm clouds containing thunder and lightning.

      As we walked through the fields of wheat, barley, and wildflowers, we scoped out ditches to duck in of needed. We didn't touch the metal on our treking poles. We kept walking because there was no other choice, really. We made it to the town of Los Arcos around 7 pm, soaking wet, 40,000 steps later. As we arrived a man warmed us if the danger "pericola!" Before is... the city Streets were fenced off for the running of the bulls in the for their fiesta tonight around 8pm.

      We were soaked and cold and wanted to get through to find a bar to call a taxi. I looked at our map app and it would be a 40 minute walk to our hotel. No way. We decided to watch for a while, bulls were a symbol I was looking for on the way and here they are stopping is in our tracks.

      I had a beer in my pack we bought 4 hours ago. We shared it in my old metal cup I brought to drink rosado from the famous bodegas Irache wine fountain earlier on our route today.

      We hid behind the fence with a group of local senoritas dressed in red and white and watched the festivities of bulls and boys running and jumping over the fence for a bit, then called the hotel for transport. Another 10 minute walk to get to that. Progress.

      As we arrived we were deliriously laughing. We didn't know we were staying in a truck stop outside of town near the highway. Well at least we could get a hot shower, put up our feet and not sleep with a dorm room full of other Pilgrims.

      This surprise destination feels like luxury after our long day, complete with a loaded convenience store filled with jamon Ruffles, candy bars and $5 bottles of vino tinto. Plus a bar restaurant where we had a not so great dinner, but happy to have it. I'm not sure how they gather a 3 star ranking, but it is clean and friendly and convenient... if you are in a car. A Camino, not so much.

      So grateful for a place to rest and not be struck by lightning today or trampled by bulls. Today was not the day for that.

      Life is good! 🐂♉🐂
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    • Day 8

      Day 5- Lorca to Los Arcos

      September 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

      So the best name for today is …. Survival:)
      Knee is still acting up but tried numerous ways throughout the day to walk in less discomfort. Kept the ibuprofen up as well.
      We started at 545am as we were going to go from Lorca to Los Arcos a 30km(18 miles) walk. last night we had a lot of thunderstorms that dumped a bunch of rain so we knew it was going to be a sloppy day. As it turns out it wasn’t as muddy as I thought it would be but still a lot of puddles and mud to navigate.
      The day started with an uphill section and we got thru it before the sun was up. Sunrise was unremarkable and we were making good time . We joined another group for a bit , a Brit,Canadian, and Australian. Very nice people and we shared experiences, stories and reasons. They stopped for breakfast and we powered in planing on brunch. A bit before our brunch we came upon the famous wine fountain. It was 10 am or so but CJ did sample the wine. I have included a picture of the sign next to it that answers the question of how do you put free wine out?
      BTW their is a typo on the sign so see if you can find it.
      Our designated stopping point was Villlamayor de Monjardin. It sits up on a hill and has the most incredible views that were worth the 600 ft incline we walked to get there. Quaint little shop that makes I guess what you would call a modified baguette panini sandwich. It was divine( pic included in case susan wants to make them in the future:) )
      From that town to Los arcos is basically farmland that has some ups and downs but mostly flat. It was afternoon so a bit hot but a nice breeze. Most of the pics come from that section.
      I did not ponder much today as I was focused on getting the walk completed without any further damage to the knee so let’s just say on was focused on survival today:) I think I was successful with that but will know more in the morning. We are planning a short day tomorrow, about 10 miles , so we shall sleep in a bit tomorrow and hopefully the time will help heal the aches and pains!
      Lastly I did include an animal pic I got today that kind of sums up my pace today!
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    • Day 4

      Viva España

      August 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Am Morgen die übliche Routine. Kaffee kochen, frühstücken, Ölstand kontrollieren, jetzt auch das Servoöl auffüllen. Dann ging es los für die Aufgaben für den heutigen Tag. Einen Bresso Frischkäse kaufen und das längste Baguette mitbringen.
      Bresso nicht gefunden, am Baguette arbeiten wir noch. Über die Pyrenäen ging es nach Spanien. Leider war das Wetter schlecht und wir hatten keine Sicht auf 1750m Höhe bei 3°C. In Spanien angekommen ging es an Aufgabe Nummer zwei. Das Baguette. Den Teig in einer Mörtelwanne angerührt und mittels Ofenrohr und Lötlampe als Ofen versuchten wir diesen zu backen. Nach 15 min. aus der Traum vom leckeren und längsten Baguette. Die Lötlampe hat den Geist aufgegeben und der Teig geht nun in der Sonne auf.
      Aufgaben verkackt. Kein Mittagessen, keine Punkte. Motivation sinkt. Zum Glück keine Pannen oder Ausfälle.
      Morgen nur fahren und genießen.
      Tachostand 2184 km.
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    • Day 9

      Two stages!

      September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      I forgot to post yesterday, so I’ll catch up here. Yesterday was a nice walk to Los Arcos for several reasons, despite the heat. One, a couple iconic stops early on; a blacksmith whose father and grandfather were also blacksmiths in that location. He makes small items for sale (photo below) and also larger items, like a gorgeous, dramatic, huge bull. Right after that stop was the famous wine fountain, offering both water and wine for free. A queen endowed this centuries ago, apparently and the government continues out via a local wine maker. Again, see photo!

      Also yesterday was nice because I spent the day walking with Tom. We are both Catholic and had fun geeking out on history of the church, the issue of hell, and best of all, comparing conversion stories. So fascinating!! Made the day (a moderate 21 kilometers ) go more quickly. And just to head you off at the pass, friends and family, Tom is married, so don’t even go there:-)

      Today was a longer day, about 28 kilometers, and we got an earlier start: 6:45. It was cool, dark and lovely. Today has a wonderful breeze too, which seemed to greet us at the top of each rise, like a reward for our efforts. I had more quiet time, and I was glad for it. It was a long walk though, and a nice thing that happens once in a while is that you come around a bend to find someone has set up a little food and rest station. An oasis! That happened today and I include a photo.

      It has been surprising how quickly we connect with people as we walk, and then worry we will lose track when places for. We were both thrilled to see our friend Jun already settled in at the albergue we stopped at today. And again, after David and Olly thought they would stop at the previous town they just messaged that they are here - hooray! Our little world coalesced quickly! Now if we can track Rebecca down we’ll feel complete.
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    • Day 10

      To Los Arcos

      September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

      I’m lying here in our room in Los Arcos listening to the end of a rain shower and the birds are going crazy. I am SLEEPY!

      We left Estella at 6:00 am to take advantage of the cooler morning air, which also helped us arrive before the hottest part of the day.

      We spent the afternoon/early evening relaxing in the plaza visiting with some Camino friends, eating a homemade empanada and pizza, and rehydrating. I can’t drink enough liquid, it seems.

      Best Parts of Today:

      1. Walking in the cooler morning air
      2. The food truck in the middle of nowhere that gave us a place to sit, eat, drink, and recharge before the last push to town
      3. The little breeze that cooled my face
      4. The realization that a cast of characters is forming around us and it will be fun to see how it plays out
      5. FaceTiming with Adrianne and Eddie and then with my mom💕

      Worst Part of the Day

      Only one thing - We met Ken in Pamplona, but because he is walking further than us tomorrow, we may not see him again.

      Tomorrow, we walk to Viana and rumor has it there is a festival happening there that may include running of the bulls 😳
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    • Day 18

      Los Arcos to Logrona

      September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      We were up early this morning to start off a big day of 28.5 km. After a terrible sleep I was happy to be up at 545 am and start walking 630 am with head torches on . The first part of the walk we were going at a great pace bur suddenly realised we were being eaten alive by mossies so although the sun was rising over the hills we could hardly stop to photograph due to mossie invasion on steroids. It was beautiful rolling countryside and we got to Sansol supposedly a pretty wee place but a mossie retreat +++. Not a long stop there as we came across another pretty town with super good coffee and the most beautifully baked fresh bread filled with omelets and tomate! Alot of the cafe employees have obviously been to a non charm academy of hospitality where you get grunted at and almost feel they are over us pilgrims making their days far too busy. Bur as long as the coffee is great we don't care.
      So on we went with some steep climbs but pretty countryside and new sown grass. Finally we came to Viana a beaut city with an old church and very medieval. We had an amazing lunch of garlic mushrooms on bread.
      So totally refreshed we set off for the last 11km.
      Luckily the rain had started to fall lightly which was far more pleasant then the relentless sun of yesterday. ⁸ So on and onand on we walked through the1 rioja wineries eating bunches of grapes.on the way. Logrona loomed in the distance but as usual the last few kilometers went on forever. Finally walking through the beautiful city of Logrona we found our comfortable hostel! The taking off of shoes at the end of the day and hopping in the shower is pure bliss!
      Who knew but there is a wine festival and the town is heaving. Unfortunately as responsible pilgrims ;we are not dancing.the night away but after a few drinks of the local rioja wine and tapas we are tucked up in bed. We have a 29 km walk ahead tomorrow so good sence prevailed
      . No blisters yet but.feet very sore at end.of day.
      It's amazing to think.that on the this walk all we focus on is our feet our muscles and where the next.good toilet and coffee will be??.
      Their is a lot of partying out so hope we get a good night's sleep
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    • Day 11

      Day 8 - Los Arcos to Viana

      May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      At a glance:
      Cultural highlight: ancient paintings on the roof of a church that was a ruin yet the paintings have survived amongst the rubble.
      Food highlights: red peppers stuffed with spinach and walnuts in a tomato sauce. And lentil and chorizo soup. Oh, and white asparagus on our lunch picnic boccadilla.
      Kilometres walked: 18.34k
      # of steps: 28,842
      Elevation gain: 150m but some of it was lost and regained.
      Our choice was to walk 28k or 18k. We chose (wisely I think) 18k. Trudy, however, felt she could walk the 28k. I replied that I could too but it wouldn't be fun.
      Trudy woke from a dream that she and Peter and others were at Barry Lortons who with Elvane who were hosting a potluck and neighbours and friends were bring food. Later today you got an email from Elvane that Barry had died. He had suffered from bladder cancer. Barry was one of those characters that make the world more interesting. Sad to not have him here.
      We have become immersed in the social life of the Camino constantly running into the same people. Today we had coffee with four Aussies, whom we met at Orison, on our first day. This evening we had dinner next to them. One of them Viv, originally from England, worked as a hairdresser on the Alaska cruise ships back on 1975. She worked for a hair salon that had salons around the world and ended up in Australia.
      Tristan, with whom we shared a room, is having foot issues but still walking.
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