An attempt at photosYesterday in Spain
Will try for 3 from today...
Will try for 3 from today...
Today was short - 16.5 kms! But it was quite hard work for the last 10 kms or so as it was totally exposed, and no villages between here and Carrión. It was completely flat, and amazingly not boring scenery (though I think some people may not have agreed!) with the usual dead sunflowers, stubble and surprisingly a few fields of corn! Haven’t seen that lately. And rows of trees breaking the monotony.
So we left our luxury hotel at 8.50, late for us, but breakfast wasn’t till 8. It is such a beautiful place- Monasterio de San Zoilo - was once a Benedictine monastery, hence the cloister outlook from our room, and yes Liv, we actually had a double bed rather than 2 put together. The risk with a double bed is sometimes that there is only one long pillow for the 2 or you, but this perfect place not only had a pillow each, but 3 pillows each!!
So we set off, with plenty of water for this day in the sun, and got here by 12.40....at the beginning we did have a fair bit of shade, with trees alongside the track, but it was just the end part that was extremely bright and hot. On arrival we sat immediately and had a beer before checking in, and then as we hadn’t eaten our lunch yet, we shared a plate of freshly made seafood paella!! Yum! This was all with the many people we now who are in step with us - ie stopping at the same towns...
Calzadilla de la Cueza is a tiny place, 5 years ago it didn’t appear at all on Google maps, but my photos actually say that is where we are...We had a drink here with Michael and Claire but they had to walk another 9 kms to another town...poor things...by then we were so relaxed knowing we were “home”...and it may be the last time we encounter them as we are a bit out of sync from now on...they will already be in León when we walk in, but it is a big place (compared to these villages). But we have a very comfortable and convivial group of peregrino friends here at the moment, and will be in sync with them for a while at least.
Tomorrow we walk into Sahagún, past the place where we are photographed on Google maps!Read more
This was our view today, for 14 miles. Looks pretty monotonous, right? Until you realize ... we were walking part of the original Roman road through Spain, still intact after 2000 years (with just a new gravel covering). The Romans transported an estimated 100,000 tons of rock just to build the substrata of this road through what were wetlands at the time. And none of the rock was from local sources...
Meanwhile, the wheat and barley fields we passed by have been farmed since the Romans’ time. Not such a boring walk after all (though we were happy to reach the little village of Calzadilla, and our hostal!).
The snowy mountains to our north made us feel we were in Switzerland. But for the first time we walked in shorts and short sleeves.Read more
I walked about 21 miles today. There was no where to stop for the last 10.75 miles, but fortunately, the weather has been very good. About 80° with a breeze. My feet are very sore!
Heute morgen ging es relaxed los um 7:00 Uhr, wir waren von den 90 Pilgern fast die letzten... die Radfahrer lassen sich bei dem kühleren Wetter noch was Zeit. Es geht 17 Km geradeaus bis zum nächsten Ort. Da sind wir auch eingekehrt. Wäre gerne noch 7,5 Km weiter gegangen aber Susi wollte nicht und für mein Bein ist es wohl auch besser. Wir liegen jetzt am Pool. Herberge Camino Real, 5 EUR, schöner Pool, super essen Duschen und Toiletten eine Katastrophe. Gegen Abend ist das Gespenst noch eingezogen... ein sehr großer, sehr alter, Weißhaariger Mann mit schlurfendem langsamen Gang. Ich hab mich echt im ersten Moment erschrocken...er besucht auf jeden Fall in 2 Monaten Freunde in Desden, wenn er das überleben sollte. Der Mann hat Humor, ich schätze Ihn auf 80....hab vergessen Ihn nach der Nationalität zu fragen. Auch er stand auf einmal nackt im Bad... in dem Alter darf man das.Read more
Heading out of Calzadilla de la Cueza showed another example of the local traditional building style of burrowing into hillsides. There appeared to be a set of residential and agricultural buildings grouped in the hillside.
The pathway today was typical of much of the Road to Santiago. Rocks the size of golf balls interspersed with marbles and fist sized ankle-turners. It’s this kind of trail that has challenged me to push through to the goal. (I much prefer pea gravel or sand; just sayin’)
During today’s walk a different construction method appeared along the trail. Old buildings made of mud and hay are frequent in this section. One even had old vines growing through the wall; as if the wall had been built around the vine.
Today I stopped in San Nicolas del Real Camino for the night. The albergue, Albergueria Laganares is very nice. It has bunks with no more than 6 beds in each room, serves a delicious dinner, and has a cozy back yard for relaxation. The laundry corner of the garden made me feel as though I were hand washing in Tuscany with grape vines overhead and succulents below.
After arriving at the albergue I found out that the town doesn’t have a bakery or a pharmacy. What they do have is a bread truck that comes to town around noon, toots it’s horn, and travels the few streets in town selling bread. I flagged down the driver and got to pick from his many baskets of fresh breads. Just like the weekly market vendors that I saw on market day in Carrion de los Condes, the bread truck vendor provides a lifeline to these small towns.
Tonight is unusual in that I am sharing a room with a girl from Oklahoma and another gal from London. Most times I am the only native English speaker and feel a bit inadequate in my mastery of multiple languages. Though people on Camino quickly switch to English to allow conversations to continue.
Rain and thunderstorms are in the forecast for tomorrow afternoon, so I hope to get an early start to beat them.Read more
You might also know this place by the following names:
Arroyo Cueza de Cabañas, Arroyo Cueza de Cabanas