Basílica de San Isidoro

A day in Leon. Marvellous city with so much to see. After having a coffee (with free breakfast) we went to the Church of San Isadore and the museum that hold its treasures.
It’s a 10th century Romanesque church; simple and stunningly beautiful. The museum, which is housed in part of the church, has a library of ancient books including a complete bible dating back to the 10th century. There are original 12th century frescos and a chalice, the base of which dates from the 4th century and the gold and jewels embellishing it were added in the 12th century.
There really was too much to take in and we were not allowed to take any photos but it will stay in my mind for a long time.
I would really recommend visiting Leon.
Close to San Isidore we found a lovely little vegetarian shop and restaurant where I had a juice and a vegan empanada - my first empanada as they are usually made with meat or tuna - and possibly my last as the guy in the shop said! Delicious.
Then to the Correos to post excess kit to Santiago - it feels very good to get rid of stuff at the moment and am concerned about how I will feel when I get home - think I may be inclined to carrying on disposing as it’s amazing how little you need really, particularly when mainly dressed in merino!
Now sitting at a cafe with an iced coffee (or coffee and ice as seems to be the thing here) before going to the cathedral. Does it get any better.
Later: well it did. The cathedral is probably the most beautiful place I’ve ever been to (for me just about equals the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona which brought me to tears). As soon as I went into the cathedral I was in tears - something about the delicacy of the architecture and the phenomenal stained glass. I have quite honestly never seen anything like it. I know Gaudi was very inspired by the cathedral and I can see so clearly that this is true. I was struck by everything really, but one thing in particular was the use of light and colour - warm colours on one side and cool on the other - echoed by Gaudi in The Sagrada Familia.
Spent a long time there and later went to mass in the beautiful side chapel. Then treated myself to a hazelnut ice cream at Holy Cow - recommended by Happy Cow!
Low point of the day, which worked out okay on the end. Was trying to find something to eat. This city does not open for food until 8.30pm. We tried about four places recommended on Happy Cow which were supposed to be open and either were closed or not serving food til later. Eventually returned to the hotel which has a bar and managed to persuade them to make a cheese sandwich- actually pretty good in the end but by them I was starving and I think anything would have done.
Reason for the slight urgency was that when in the cathedral I had seen a poster advertising organ concerts in the cathedral. They only take place about every six weeks but there was one tonight - free and no tickets required. I was really keen to hear the organ as it is quite new and apparently very special.
The concert started at 8.30 and was wonderful. The organist was from Bruges cathedral and he was playing with a disabled woman who plays the pan pipes. This might sound unusual but it was a beautiful concert. Because of her disability she can’t play a regular flute but has adapted flute music for the pan pipes and it was fantastic very accomplished playing. The organ was outstanding - I’m so grateful that I was able to hear it played.
Late to bed given the need to get up early tomorrow morning but very much worth it. Sitting here with a face mask on (given to me by Rachel) so hoping I will look fab for my walk out of Leon tomorrow.Read more