Spain
Bercianos del Real Camino

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    • Day 22

      Moratinos to El Burgo Ranero

      April 13 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Dinner was actually really good, so those Italians live to see another day. There were only seven of us staying there (off stage), which made for an interesting table. Me, a nuts Italian guy on a bicycle, an Austrian guy. A completely nice and normal Austrian couple and an unusual American couple, in that they'd been travelling constantly since they both lost their businesses in 2020 (she works online to support them though I'm not entirely sure how given that work is "running a non-profit"). The solo Austrian guy tried to rollerskate from Munich to Hamburg once because his colleague told him he couldn't. He got 100km then bought a bike. Like I said. Odd crew.

      I'm a sensory princess at the best of times and today for some reason really set me off. There was something *touching me* constantly - a cobweb, a hair, my pack straps, ugh! Each day, after a while in the heat with my hands swinging my sides, my fingers swell up and I have to take my tightest ring off. Today, I could actually feel the breeze in the tiny tiny hairs on my knuckles and I didn't like it. The cobwebs in particular I do not understand. I'm walking a well worn path. I'm not the first today, I won't be the last. HOW is there a spiderweb here, what determined little Charlotte is at work, she can CHILL OUT until later because her work is just going to keep getting wrecked.

      Every day for the past four (?) days, I've been passed by two old guys biking in the opposite direction. This I also do not understand. Are they orbiting me? Does my version of the Truman Show not have enough extras? If they are doing this in reverse we should have crossed once. Tomorrow I shall fling myself in their path and demand an explanation.

      Another 30km day and I'm in El Burgo Ranero, listening to a Dutch girl that just got to the albergue say she came here because her private room across the road had flies - can you imagine? I certainly can, it's nearly 30 degrees, we're in farm land, and the window was probably open. But sure babe, you do you.
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    • Day 17

      17. DAY | 24 km

      May 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      IO | ME | ICH...

      Nun lerne ich mich kennen und es ist spannend. All diese Beschreibungen von mir selbst finden auch auf den Camino seinen Platz:

      - Der Sonnenschein
      - Die gute Seele
      - Der Schmetterling

      Ich nehme es nun an, ich versuche diese Worte auf mich wirken zu lassen und sehe endlich dass besondere in mir selbst, dass was viele schon lange entdeckt haben und viele hier entdecken. Nein ich bin nicht selbstverständlich, ich bin nicht wie alle anderen, sondern einmalig. Und ja ich möchte es mir heute selbst sagen, ich bin verdammt stolz auf mich! Dass ich immer meinen Weg gegangen bin und dass anziehe was ich ausstrahle.

      - Ehrlichkeit
      - Mut
      - Stärke
      - Dankbarkeit
      - Großzügigkeit

      Und ein verdammt großes Herz gegenüber dieser Realität die Positivität benötigt.

      Danke Leben !

      Elli

      IO | ME | ICH...

      Ora sto conoscendo me stessa ed è emozionante. Tutte queste descrizioni di me stessa trovano anche il suo posto sul Cammino:

      - Il sole
      - L'anima buona
      - La farfalla

      Ora lo accetto, cerco di lasciare che queste parole abbiano un effetto su di me e finalmente vedo la particolarità di me stessa, quella che molti hanno scoperto da tempo e molti scoprono qui. No, non sono evidente, non sono come tutti gli altri, ma unica. E sì, vorrei dire a me stessa oggi, sono dannatamente orgogliosa di me stessa! Che sono sempre andata per la mia strada e che attiro ciò che irradio.

      - sincera
      - coraggiosa
      - forte
      - generosa
      - solare

      E un cuore grande verso questa realtà che ha bisogno di positività.

      Grazie vita Mia !

      Elli
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    • Day 28

      Bercianos del Real Camino

      October 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      W Moratino noc spędziliśmy w hospital San Bruno. Zakład prowadzony przez Włochów, bardzo gościnnie. Skoro świt ruszyliśmy w bardzo płaskie nieznane, również podążając częściowo augustyńska droga od przewozu złota i innych cennych metali. Ciekawe czy można by tu było pochodzić z wykrywaczem metalu, myślę że pewnie coś by się znalazło.
      Co do drogi, która idzie ciągle w tym samym kierunku to nasuwają się ciekawe refleksje. Na przykład prawa strona plecaka jest zawsze zimniejsza i należy tam przechowywać cenniejsze napoje. Po za tym moje lewe ucho jest bardziej opalone od prawego.
      Trasa prowadziła przez Sahagun troszkę z daleka od ważnych historycznie miejsc ale jak się okazało większość była zamknięta. Przed wejściem do miasta przechodzi się przez wydawać by się mogło zupełnie nie na miejscu romański mostek,(bo nie było tam żadnej wody),który prowadzi do Ermita Virgin del Puente. Jest tam ważny punkt zaznaczony dwoma rzeźbami w fasadach znaczących geograficzny środek trasy Jakubowej. W Shagun również otrzymaliśmy certyfikat ukończenia połowy trasy.
      Miasto to kiedyś tętniące życiem, bylo drugie co do wielkości po Leon, które kiedyś gościło i chroniło króla Alfonsa VI kiedy walczył ze swoim bratem no i po jego zwycięstwie zostało obdarowane wieloma przywilejami.
      W kościele de San Lorenzo z XIII wieku byliśmy na niedzielnej mszy. Wychodząc z miasta mijaliśmy bardzo imponujące pozostałość opactwa Benedyktyńskiego no i potem 10 km dzida po płaskim do Barcianos del Real Camino gdzie spaliśmy w Santa Clara Alberque.
      Cicha wręcz bezludna wioseczka z punktami ożywienia w postaci schronisk i baru. Przekonaliśmy się nie nie raz pierwszy, że będąc jedynymi gośćmi w restauracji nie oznacza, że będzie słabo, wręcz przeciwnie zwykle była to pierwsza klasa kulinarna. Mieliśmy fantastycznych gospodarzy w naszej albergue a nasze śniadanie chyba najlepsze do tej pory.
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    • Day 25

      Bercianos del Real Camino

      September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

      Today was rough. Not just for us but seemingly for everyone. We gathered at the bar at the end of the day, which is customary, and multiple friends were looking for alternatives to make this better and to help ease the pain. For many that means hopping a bus to the big city of Leon and regrouping. We are hoping that a shower, good night’s sleep and ibuprofen will help our mood.

      Today was also sad as we had to say goodbye to an awesome Irish couple and 3 wonderful Brits as they had completed “their stage”of the Camino and hopped a train for home. We have learned that it is not unusual for Europeans to take a week vacation and walk the Camino in stages. They think we are crazy for doing it all at once but understand the cost to fly from the U.S. or elsewhere in the world multiple times makes it cost preventative to do it any other way.

      I didn’t like this idea of new people jumping in, mid-stream, to the middle of “our” Camino in their freshly laundered clothes with their silly upbeat attitudes. But what I found was they infused new joy into our journey. They were a delight. And in just 4-5 days they became favorites of everyone around them. Camino Angels? I think possibly so.

      So to Barry and Sonya from Dublin and Dave, John and Chris from England, thank you for brightening our days with great conversation and companionship. We will miss you as we journey on.

      Buen Camino.
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    • Day 31

      Bercianos del real Camino

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Well we made it 14.5 miles down the road today... started late as we wanted to stop in Sahagun and get our certificates of completion for half the Camino. Found out today the Geographical center of the Camino is just outside Sahagun marked but the two statues you pass through before entering the city. The art is from the albergue we stayed in last night, they definitely had some interesting choices.Read more

    • Day 23

      Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head

      September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Terradillos to Bercianos del Real Camino
      Day 20 - 23 km

      Yes it was a wet start to our day! 🌧️
      We had a late start trying to sit out the rain but left around 9.45. We encountered rain for about the first hour but found a coffee shop and managed to change into dry clothes to carry on our walk.
      The walk today was not very exciting, most of it beside the motorway, but had a nice stop with fellow pilgrims for lunch.
      As we said before the countryside has changed and we are finding the last part of the day is a good time to loose ourselves in our music.
      Our accommodation tonight is great. We are at a very modern Albergue and have just finished another Pilgrim meal.
      The Weather forecast tells us no more rain for our trip so we are happy about that. 😊
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    • Day 33

      Day 24-Bercianos del Real Camino

      September 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

      A little bit of a long day since we had to do a repeat of the first mile and a half but we were rewarded with a delicious tortilla de patatas in San Nicolás served with homegrown tomatoes. We started before sunrise and walked by the light of the moon. It was a nice walk from town to town and we were able to pickup a halfway certificate in Sahagún. We also saw a tough motorcycle gang which you'll see in the video.

      We have a couple of short days next followed by a rest day (after 10 straight days of walking). We're looking forward to taking it easy for a bit.
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    • Day 18

      Another route variant

      August 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      Today, after Sahagún, we had 2 options: the standard route passing by a village or two, or the Trajan variant going to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, a little longer, less traveled, using an old Roman road.
      We chose the latter. By the time we got to the decision point it was getting hot, and we didn't know that there would be virtually no shade, but we would have taken it regardless, as I bet the standard route didn't have much shade either.
      We took a break about 2k before the destination because there was a reat area with lots of shade and a water fountain. After a good pause, we continued to the village.
      The private albergue I saw great reviews for was closed, and we went to the municipal albergue instead. Jan and I were the only guests again.
      We had a very nice evening chatting with Madeleine, the hospitalera, cooking and sharing food.
      The albergue was partially renovated recently. The sleeping area is still old, but toilets and showers are new, and the kitchen was only installed last week!
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    • Day 16

      Late Start and „cheating“ a bit

      August 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

      Today I am giving my tortured legs a bit of a rest. I’ll be taking a bus past the industrial outskirts of Leon, which is essentially just a cat and mouse game against trucks and speeding cars on the freeway, and I pre-booked my bunk bed in an albergue to have a little more time to get there and see the town.

      Yesterday’s 25 kilometers along the freeway, my boots pounding asphalt more than any other surface, led to slightly more discomfort than I am willing to admit (Mikka is getting old). If I want to make it to Astorga on the 4th and Foncebaddon on the 6th, it’s maybe not a bad idea to start fresher tomorrow.

      With Leon I am slowly leaving the Meseta for the hilly final 250 kilometers towards Sarria. O Cebreiro and the Cruz de Ferro lie ahead, both nice day-long inclines to the highest and second highest point of my journey respectively, The landscape will turn green again, oak trees at first, followed by eucalyptus forests as the climate goes from desert to mountainous and then ocean.

      I’ll certainly miss the gruff landscape and its equally gruff inhabitants. On the other hand, I can do with a little more shade, temperatures are forecast to soar again.
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    • Day 21

      THAT day

      October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      So, it kind of had to happen eventually, right? Just one of those days. Started out with a nagging cough that had kicked in last night. Whacked my right thigh on a guard rail, hard, in the early morning dark. Picked up my second blister walking too fast, too long for the first 10 K en route to breakfast. Then had a pretty nice stretch, took good breaks, but then had to do the last 12 K of a fairly long, 30K day in the heat of the afternoon. Yesterday afternoon I think I described as grueling but not miserable. Today was both!

      I know I had to look pretty bad because about two miles before I arrived a local man pushing his bike up the hill in the opposite direction stopped to give me worried looks, pointed to his watch and explained it was very late, pointed out that it’s hot as hell and then told me how sorry he was. I tried to reassure him I was fine, really! Oh my.

      To cap it off our albergue today is the first one I have found just plain unpleasant . But! I’m showered, fed, electrolyte-ed and soon I will be sleeping. All really is well.
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    Bercianos del Real Camino, 24325

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