Spain
Brazuelo

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    • Day 33

      Santibáñez to Santa Catalina

      May 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Our albergue last night was one of the best so far. The owner couldn’t have been nicer.

      I shared a taxi with Nicole to Astorga to rest my foot a bit with a shorter day. As we turned the corner into the town, there was Lesley again! We all had a second breakfast and Nicole very kindly restrapped my ankle in a more supportive way.

      Lesley and I visited the Palacio de Gaudi - I don’t think there is anything Gaudi left for me to do now.

      My foot went well with the new strapping but I will see how the next few days go when we get to rockier paths, I will probably need to adjust my plans a bit.

      I walked in to my albergue a few towns on which is my first donativo and it is very different to anywhere else I’ve stayed. It was very bohemian looking and the dormitory was a bit rough. But the communal dinner was great and then a few guests and the host picked up the instruments and we had music and singing. A unique experience!

      La Boheme
      11kms
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    • Day 25

      Santa Catalina the somosa

      June 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      Something can be said about the very first bar when you walk into a little village: good place to have a business; everybody hits it first

      These two young Italian ladies have been in my albergue roughly two nights ago and we just crossed our paths again
      the tables were either taken or still dirty so we wound up sharing one table for my desayuno numero 2
      Bee (next to me) is from Bologna, started in Pamplona and is going to Santiago.
      Naomi is from Genoa and has joined her friend in Leon and will go as far as Sarria

      There are 4 hombres from El Salvador who are going to Santiago in a horse-drawn carriage 😟

      While at the bar I sort of had a feeling that the rains are coming our way so I changed my sandals to the boots put a poncho on a backpack and got mine ready.
      approximately three minutes later it started raining...
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    • Day 27

      Astorga to Foncebadon

      April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      I'm rarely still around late enough to know (BRAG) but I think the blasting chants after 7.30 might not just be a Roncesvalles thing? Astorga was certainly keen on it today. In what I'm sure is an innocent mistake, I left without my freezer brick because SOMEONE TOOK IT but it doesn't matter, I'm close enough to my last dose it can be at room temp.

      Been a total break-slut today - coffee, orange juice and toast, coke, lunch.
      I honestly don't mind though, I think taking my time on the walk is part of adjusting to the pace and routine. Getting in at 2 versus 4 makes no difference. Rolled in at 4.30pm after walking up a hill we continue to climb tomorrow to reach the highest point of the whole Camino. I can't wait to see the sunrise from here in the morning.

      Some homework I've done tonight to satisfy questions raised when walking:

      1. Earwax DOES hold DNA but you have to get it within 30 days.

      2. The tallest cow on record is 6'3 and quite frankly I saw one a few weeks ago that could take that, I should write to them.
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    • Day 4

      Day 3: Astorga to El Ganzo

      April 8 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

      Today was a short walk. 9 miles. But out of those 9 miles it rained a lot!! Found out my new waterproof jacket is not 100% waterproof.
      When we got to El Gonzo we had a choice. Keep going another 4.5 miles or stop. Patrick chose to stop here because we are sleeping in a teepee.
      Mind you, it is cold and rainy all day long. Now, bed time we are sleeping in a teepee with no heat. We are fully clothed. Jackets on and 3 big blankets. I hope I will be ok. The man next to me is snoring.
      We got here early so we played cards and relaxed most of the day.
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    • Villares Órbigo to Murias de Rechivaldo

      October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      A day to celebrate with a couple of radlers. We have now completed 500+ km of the Camino Francés and 600+ km if we include rest days and walking around destination towns.

      Our host Marta provided us with all the breakfast we needed and we were walking into the dark morning by 7:45am. Sunrise was 8:30 and we walked mostly along unpaved rural tracks towards the city of Astorga.

      Initially quite undulating terrain, it eventually flattened out a few km before Astorga.

      Mostly cloudy and cool so good walking weather.

      We chatted with a couple of pilgrims from Quebec over coffee and chocolate croissants at the morning break in San Justo de la Vega. Easy flat path for the 4km into Astorga where we had some lunch and did some needed chores. We both needed to get cash and John managed to extend his Movistar SIM until the end of the trip.

      Astorga is the site of one of Antoni Gaudí’s beautiful buildings, the Bishops Palace. Looks very much like the castle in the starting credits of many Disney creations. See Kevin’s photo.

      We completed the day with the final 5km to Murias de Rechivaldo and our room at Casa Flor, a quirky albergue with a relaxing back garden where we have enjoyed a few drinks in the afternoon sun.
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    • Day 21

      Mountains - 1600m high

      August 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      The way up to the famous Cruz Ferro, where people leave a stone the brought from their homes, was ok! 17 km, the first 8 in complete darkness! At the Cruz a met an American woman who was from Key West- where we were before the pandamic! The only way is up from Otis Clay brought me safely to the top! I am at the highest point now and it’s going down from now on! Need to be careful as the path is very narrow and rocky!Read more

    • Day 32

      St. Catalina, waschen und reflektieren

      May 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Nach dem gratis Schnarchkonzert meiner lieben Beatriz und die Freude das die Ukraine das ESC gewonnen hat, das FaceTime mit meiner süßen Älteste, schlafe ich endlich um kurz vor 3 ein.
      Ich bleibe heute hier und plane meinen weiteren Weg, die Schlafplätze werden knapper und es sind viel Pilgrims on the road. Da ich unbedingt am Montag in Fonçebadon übernachten möchte, brauche ich Geduld und Ausdauer, aber ich habe was gefunden für meine Übernachtung. Beatriz wird separiert und wird mit anderen “Mitläufer” weiter schnarchen, sie hat so viel Verständnis, ich muss alleine schlafen. Beatriz nimmt Abends ihre halbe Schlaftablette und noch keine 5 Minuten später ist sie in ihrem Ländchen der Caminoträume, ich habe kein schlechtes Gewissen 🙏Read more

    • Day 26

      Sights, sounds, situations

      October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      So, the sights have started to change for real! Today was a beautiful walk as we approached the mountains under skies that cleared over the course of the morning. No roadside walking today - so nice. And the climb was mostly gentle and in the cooler air felt really good.

      Sounds. I’ve been thinking about the sounds of the Camino. Almost every morning as I wake up, somewhere nearby a rooster is crowing. I like that.
      Sleeping in albergues you are surrounded by the sounds of other people. As 10:00 arrives and lights go off it gets quiet, but always there is breathing, snoring, rustling, shuffling. I find it all oddly comfortable and comforting, all that humanity around me. I think this way of sleeping in groups is very old. It reminds me we are primates, social creatures.
      Languages! All the time in cafes and albergues, or along the trail conversations are happening in at least a dozen languages. People find ways to communicate, we laugh a lot, smile, shrug.

      Situations! Every day follows a pattern, so if a situation is challenging one day, you know that, for better or worse you will have many opportunities to try it again ahead of you. It pushes for growth and builds confidence, and resilience.

      Tomorrow morning we climb to the Cruz de ferro, the Iron Cross, where by tradition you leave a stone representing some burden you hope to be relieved of. Something to look forward to. But now, time to curl up amongst my tribe of the day and get some sleep…
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    • Day 30

      Murias de Rechivaldo

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      Variety was the reward for our day. After a week of crossing the Meseta, today led us along an ever changing path with ups and downs, quiet villages, changing crops and into Astorga; a larger town which of course was at the top of a steep hill. Today’s 16 miles went quick up until the last 5k into Murias de Rechivaldo which was a pretty hot walk at the end of the day.

      This comes after an great night at our country house where we were just plain pampered by Mercedes the owner. This was a unique night with just seven people at the albergue. Most of the dinner meal came from their garden with a nice pumpkin soup, great tomatoes, walnuts from their tree, and of course that Rioja red wine.

      Tonight we are having a pilgrim’s meal at our albergue owned by a German who walked the Camino and left his job as a chemical engineer to support pilgrims. We will be off tomorrow for the start of a steady climb back into the hills.
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    • Day 30

      Rabanal de Camino

      October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      This morning we left the city of Astorga. We met some lovely ladies at breakfast in the hotel where we were staying. They are staying in the hotel we are in tonight too and we had lunch with them. They are from New York.

      The walk was relatively smooth. We walked for a long time with a couple from Florida. That was very nice. The big challenge today what is the weather. It was rainy and windy and cold. We had to wear our ponchos for a good portion of today’s hike.

      When we arrived in Rabanal, we went down to what I think is the only place to eat in town. We usually either skip lunch or have just a sandwich. But this afternoon we had the pilgrims menu, which is two courses and dessert. David had some spaghetti and I had a good soup. Then David had some pork and I had some chicken both with fried potatoes. And ice cream for dessert. It was great!

      We came back to our room and are basically snuggling up because it’s cold and we are trying to dry out our wet clothing. This is the first time that the radiator has been turned on in a room where we’ve been staying. It’s kind of crazy to think that not that long ago we were dressing for very warm weather. We were slathering our bodies with sunscreen and still getting kind of sunburned. I was wearing my sleeveless dress and my Capri length leggings. Now it is cold and blustery. It’s pretty likely that there’s going to be a lot of this cold and rainy weather for the rest of our Camino.

      We’ve been watching the mileage markers and we have about 250 km left. It’s a little maddening because the mileage markers are super inconsistent.

      Tomorrow we are going to the Cruz de Ferro, which is a huge mound of rocks with a large oak pole that sticks out of them with a cross on top. Pilgrims leave a rock from their homeland as an act of forgiveness or remembrance or prayer. It is the highest point on the Camino and it is a high point spiritually on the Camino. I did a lot of research today to try to find out which part of the downhill is the one that is particularly slippery in wet weather. I think tomorrow will be an OK day to walk downhill but perhaps the next day is a day to catch a taxi for 10 km or so. I hope I am making the right call on this because nobody wants to get hurt.

      We are beginning to think about the end of our Camino, because we are getting close. We were saying today that we are getting to be habitual about stopping in churches on the way. We are having a blast, and we are beginning to miss being home a little bit.
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    Brazuelo

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