Spain
Burgos

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    • Day 42

      Out in the world again!

      May 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Hurray! I was discharged this morning by the lovely doctor Michelle who has seen me through all this, and a lovely non English speaking surgeon. To my delight they said I could eat anything - that is nothing is forbidden, but just be moderate and not too spicy…etc…so I no longer a patient, and we had a lunch at Amr’s favourite tapas bar and I tasted delicious food at last.. and a little wine. And lots of water…I certainly will be moderate as do NOT want anything to go wrong again.

      It is a beautiful day in Burgos and we walked gently quite a lot (that was part of the instruction too - walk a lot, but not Camino!). It was siesta time most of our walking time, so the city was quiet and so good for me to see it all feeling well. Walked along the beautiful tree-lined path beside the river and sat with kindles for quite a while. Saw pilgrims walking through….life is continuing.

      Amr has booked a bus for us from Burgos (the bus station is conveniently just up the street from our hotel) to León tomorrow at 10.30, and that ride will be our viewing of the meseta. We stay in León 2 nights, another beautiful city, and then get another bus to Hospital de Órbigo (name of town, NOT a hospital!) and from there our old itinerary kicks in. Amr will walk, and I will get bus or whatever transport is available. Looked up the bus from there to the next place and it was a 16 min ride!! I’m actually starting to look forward to this life of swanning from village to village, and I’ll see all the familiar places. Anyway, more of that as it happens.

      I had my first squeezed OJ at the little bar at the hotel…so good. Soon we will set off for dinner.

      Just back from dinner: Amr had the menu del dia, but I just had soup a La Castellana which was more than enough…he had the soup too, and some salmon…now back at 10 pm and the tapas bars are still full and buzzing…surely they don’t go home now for dinner??
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    • Day 34

      Day in Burgos

      June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      I woke up at 5:30, as usual, but today, I just turned over and found that I could easily go back to sleep. It felt very decadent to wake up at 8:30, use up the last few granules of my instant coffee, and sit in bed with nothing to pack up and lug around on my back.

      It had rained a LOT last night, but when I left the hotel around 10 am, it was cloudy but dry. I had never been to the Monasterio de las Huelgas, and Clare, being the good sport that she is, came along.

      It was extremely interesting to learn that 23 cloistered nuns still live there, more than a thousand years after the convent’s founding. They run a laundry, and sell some baked goods.

      I wish I could keep my Spanish kings straight, but the infant king Enrique I is buried in this monastery. Such intrigue—he was injured by a falling rock while playing with friends,
      and his “handlers” brought in a “doctor” to try some experimental surgery, which involved cutting a hole in his skull. He died four days later. Our guide believes it was murder.

      There was an amazing room filled with clothing from the 13th century, in extremely good condition. That was my favorite part, even more than the Romanesque cloister!

      We met Juanma for lunch, my friend who owns an albergue earlier on the Francés (shoutout for the Albergue Maralotx in Cirauqui). We went to a place serving the Burgos specialty of roast suckling lamb. And the Burgos specialty of morcilla. I have to retract all the many bad things I’ve said about morcilla over the years because this was very good (maybe because the Burgos morcilla has rice added) and the lamb —yum. Thanks for driving so far to see us, Juanma, and thanks for taking us to this very non-touristy authentic asador. It was a great way to put a punto final on my Camino 2023.

      In early evening, we had a vino tinto in the Plaza Mayor, and on my way back to the hotel I ran into the Corpus Christi processions.

      Tomorrow, late morning bus to Madrid. Then home on Wednesday.
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    • Day 14

      Day 11- Ages to Burgos

      September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

      We traveled from Ages to Burgos today. It was about 14 miles.. As we were staying out of town, the owner of our hotel for the night drove us back to Ages at 7am for a very reasonable price. He was a very nice guy.

      Our walk started in the dark and for the first time, I was actually cold as it was 58 and windy. The terrain is mostly flat except for this one section with a steep up then a steep down. The steep up went great, the steep down…. Well that was really tough on my knee.
      After that I decided to use the ace bandage I had bought a few days ago and it helped a bit . As the day progressed it was hurting a bit more so I kept adjusting the wrapping to find what would work the best.
      So during one of my wrap sessions a man from another pilgrim group , we had been passing them or them us for the last several days, came over to me and pointed at my knee and then his knee. He had a knee brace on . He does not speak English so I smiled and said yes we both have a knee issue. He took off his pack and rummaged thru it and found an extra knee brace he had and handed it to me! I mean how great is that!
      I put it on and it was a bit big for me but that combined with the ace bandage got me to Burgos. Just a great example of pilgrims on the path together.
      As we were nearing Burgos, CJ mentioned that there was a hospital .25 miles from where we were and he had read a post that it was relatively inexpensive in Spain. He went on to advise that his was the last big city we would be in for awhile and perhaps it was time to find out if something was really wrong with the knee. When did kids get so smart:)
      I walked into the ER, used google translate to communicate my problem. 150 euro price. I sat in the waiting room for 30 minutes and they asked me to come back. Using google translate talked with the doctor. He played around with the knee for a bit and sent me for an X-ray. He walked me to the X-ray center. I sat there for 5 minutes. They came out and said that they need 2 X-rays and the second one would cost more as my fee allowed for one. I said fine. They did the X-rays.
      I was sent back to the doctor in the ER. By the time I got there he had already reviewed the X-ray and said everything is fine it is just inflammation. Gave me a prescription for an anti inflammatory drug, a cream and said get a sports knee brace. He did mention something about rest as well:) I was done in 45 minutes. Went back to the desk to asked how much I owed for the X-ray……13 euro…

      Went to the pharmacy and handed the front desk person my prescription. She walked into the back and came out with the drugs and cream. I used google translate to ask for a knee brace. She came out and measured my knee then walked over to where the braces were , selected the right size, price for all three…29.50 euros…..
      I think they have health care nailed in Spain!!!

      So rest will be rest of today then all day tomorrow then hopefully back on the trail. Will do a bit of sightseeing with CJ tomorrow as he has become a fan of the old churches and Burgos has a very large cathedral.

      Not many pictures today as I was a bit fixated on the knee today

      The Camino sure did provide today. What a wonderful experience!
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    • Day 15

      Day 12- Rest in Burgos

      September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      This is our first rest day. Was kind of ancy this morning as I was at a cafe and watching pilgrims start their day but now have settled into the day and enjoying the rest and getting used to the knee brace and letting the meds do their thing. CJ and I toured the cathedral and I have a few pics from that. Will spend the rest of the day relaxing as our hotel room is right across from the cathedral and we have a terrace that makes people watching enjoyable. It has been raining a bit and the pilgrims are beginning to arrive in the city. They are a bit soggy:)
      Tomorrow we will start the second third of the journey !
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    • Day 12

      Burgos

      July 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

      Today our trek ended in Burgos. We traveled through the industrial part of the city, got a little lost trying to find our Albergue, but found our way, thanks to the helpful folks who live here. Today, one man who helped us, dubbed us "Las Tres Valientes!" We decided to keep it. 😄 Burgos is a large city, 180,000 people, with amazing cathedrals and churches, as well as old world charm. Today was Maria's last day on the Camino, before she joins her family in Mexico. To honor her last day, we stayed at a beautiful Jesuit albergue. We went to a short mass and were brought to the front receive a pilgrim's blessing by the priest. We were then served a communal meal, and had dinner conversation with new friends from France and Chile. Tomorrow, Marjory and I tackle a 31K trek, across the Meseta- it's supposed to be a hot one... Better get some sleep. Love to you all.Read more

    • Day 19

      Burgos Day 2

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

      Today was a day of rest; you know, time off our feet. Why does my watch show 19,629 steps walked? The rest day had a busy to-do list connected to it. Go to the pharmacy for more super cream, get cash, a few odds and ends at the drug store, new shoes for Tom and then a trip to Decathlon (the second pilgrimage all pilgrims make on the Camino to get hiking supplies we neglected to bring from home). Sadly Decathlon was a 2+ mile walk out of the city center. Good thing there was a free bus stop across the street for the return trip.

      The errands did give us a great walking tour of the city. After all our chores where done we meet up with Rick, a photographer from Portland, for dinner and then off for a tour of the Burgos cathedral.

      Tomorrow it’s back on The Way for about 16 miles and then a stay at an albergue that only has 10 beds with a family style dinner in San Bol.
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    • Day 18

      Burgos - Day 1

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

      Started our day before the sun was up which is the new normal. It really is beautiful walking out of silent villages with a headlamp and then getting to see and hear the day awaken as you walk. I thought it would be hard to wake up and get out so early but you do have the help of 12-20 other people snoring through the night to encourage you to be up and out 😂.

      The first thing was a good climb to a wonderful vista and downhill for the balance of the walk into Burgos. At 10 miles my ankle said enough was enough and I caught the free city bus from the edge of town. I did wave to Peg as we buzzed by a few blocks later. The plan was to rest my foot but I ended up walking back from the center of town to guide Peg in likely adding another 3-4 miles to the day.

      We are in town for two nights and had a great evening meeting up with friends we haven’t seen for a couple of days, most importantly Helen and Mike who have invited us for a visit to Dublin on our way home! Tomorrow we are tourists for the day in Burgos.
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    • Day 13

      Day 10 - The choices we make

      September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      “Be miserable. Or motivate yourself. Whatever has to be done, it's always your choice.” – Wayne Dyer

      Day 10 - Villafranca Montes de Oca to Burgos by bus (40km)

      I chose to be miserable today, I think.
      I chose to take the bus to Burgos rather than stretch my limits to walk up the mountain.
      I chose to not walk down the other side of that mountain due to the terrain and the chance of hurting myself.
      I chose to wimp out.
      I chose to wait 5 hours for a bus that cost me just under 3€ rather than pay 55€ for a taxi.
      Therefore, I chose a day of introspection and misery to a day of “doing” and living life to the fullest.

      I am really suffering from thoughts of my own expectations and my failure to make the most of this experience. I am making my own choices in how this journey unfolds, but finding it hard to live with and accept those choices as they are not what I had planned. I feel I am wasting precious time - waiting for buses, not starting early enough, being lazy when arriving at my daily destination rather than discovering the area, and generally letting days slip by. I want to do more. I want to BE more. I just don’t know how to get the mojo going to do that. I don’t say this for sympathy, encouragement or pity. I promised an open and honest account of my Camino, and this is it. Simple as that. It’s tough! Physically and emotionally. But that’s the point right? Maybe part of what I am learning here is to let go of those unreasonable expectations of myself. Both on and off Camino.

      Despite these negative feelings, there ARE positives too! I am overweight and underfit BUT, I have walked a total of over 125 kms in the 7 days I have walked. All bar 1 days also carrying an extra 8+ kg on my back. That’s an accomplishment. I do think of this too and am pretty damn proud of myself. I am not doing this Camino the way I anticipated, but I’m still here. I have considered hopping a flight to somewhere warm. Somewhere with a beach and sand, sun loungers and cocktails. But no. I am still here and will keep plodding along for a bit more.

      I finally got to Burgos in the afternoon and went straight to my hostel to dump my backpack. I have reserved a bed for two nights in this bustling city. Will show up on the physio’s doorstep tomorrow and hope for the best. With any luck, I will be on my way out of the city by Tuesday morning. While here though, I will get a taste for the city if I can. Today I had a great video chat with the whole family, which lifted my spirits! I showed them the exterior of and then I visited the stunning Burgos Cathedral. I have never seen a cathedral like this. It is SO extra hahaha. The altarpieces, carved walls, gothic architecture and tapestries are beyond over the top. It was truly incredible.

      Tomorrow I would like to walk up to the Castillo de Burgos and look out over the city - after I go to the physio’s office. Walk in the grand plaza and along the river. Take time to sightsee and be a visitor. Take time to re-jig my plan with more reasonable and attainable expectations. And buy some warmer clothes for heavens sake!! Where did that lovely warm sun go? Autumn has come to Spain almost overnight and I am still on summer time!
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    • Day 16

      Leaving Burgos

      October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      After resting and refueling in Burgos, we left refreshed and wound our way slowly out of the still dark city, leaving through a gorgeous arch by the partially lit up Cathedral. Food and coffee ended up being much more elusive at that hour than expected and we ended up walking for a good 12 or 14 kilometers before finding an open café. Ack! The walk was interesting though! We saw a processionary caterpillar! I had read warnings about them - apparently their bristles are extremely irritating to the skin and they are not to be touched. I also walked by an area just covered with snails, very odd. Along the way we passed a sign letting us know we had only 500Km to go, down from 800. Progress!Read more

    • Day 17

      Gonna have fun in the city..

      September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 21 °C

      Ages to Burgos
      Day 14 - 24km

      Left our Albergue at 7am , definitely needed our headlights, couldn’t find breakfast in this village so we walked on to the next and had a coffee and a donut (American style). 😧😊

      It was an uneventful walk with only a small incline. We walked through similar countryside as yesterday which was nice but spent a few kms beside the motorway on the way to Burgos until we found the river route which was very relaxing.

      What kept us going was the idea of our day off walking to relax and see the sights and “having fun in the city”.

      Our first impressions was this is a city not to miss. The Cathedral is amazing, and we spent the afternoon/ night enjoying the vibrant feel of the town square. Looking forward to investigating more tomorrow.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Burgos, برغش, Бургос, Burgoso, Burgus, بورگوس, ブルゴス, 부르고스, Burgi, Burgosas, برگوس, บูร์โกส, Бурґос, 布尔戈斯

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