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Cabrales

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    • Day 9

      The Cares Gorge - make like a goat!

      August 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Phew! I thought we'd done all the hard stuff! There hasn't really been a day when I haven't been physically challenged, although yesterday was the least challenging. But today!!!
      It was described as a 24km walk with 300 metres of ascent and descent. What they forgot to say was that that ascent and descent happens pretty much at the beginning (and so the end) of the walk!
      A 30 minute minibus journey took us to Poncebos, where we started the ascent. Problem was, so did the world and its dog🙄 - quite literally, poor dogs! So the near enough 300 metres of ascent took about 50 continuous minutes. You couldn't stop because the path was pretty narrow and to stop would've caused a traffic jam, and the ground was made up of rocks - both fixed and moveable! I'm pretty pleased that I was able to do this - it was heart-pounding stuff (at my peak my heart was beating at 144bpm) - so it was a welcome change to walk on some flat ground!
      The path was only about 1 metre wide - sometimes wider, sometimes narrower - and 12 kms long in all, between Poncebos and Cain. The drop to the side was steep and precipitous and, don't forget, this was 2 way traffic🤪🙄😂.
      There were quite a few mountain goats bimbling around, and they liked to lick the salt from your legs😆.
      So, 12km in and we reached Cain, where we stopped for lunch. But... an hour later, we were on our way back!
      There were some ups and downs, but nothing compared to the approx 300m descent back into Poncebos. That was pure hell 😫😖😂. There were places where I couldn't even find steps for my feet (obviously I did, cos I'm here) but it just seemed to go on forever.
      But, 6 hours walking today and a good 24kms, and here I am, in bed, looking forward to a good night's exhausted sleep!
      It was a truly spectacular day, but this old nanny goat has had enough😂😂😂
      The first photo is of our group, and a vid of a flying Griffin vulture!
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    • Day 13

      Picos de Europa - Multi-day hike

      July 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Day 1: Fuente Dé - Refugio de Uriellu - 11km, 1300m↗️, 500m↘️, 6h30

      Instead of taking the popular teleférico, we took the steepest way up to reach the Central Massif. After losing our way countless times and some reeaaally scary moments while descending, we finally reached the hut right under the famous Picu Uriellu.

      Day 2: Refugio de Uriellu - Bulnes - Caín - 22km, 500m↗️, 2100m↘️, 7h30

      After a terrible night with virtually no sleep (a lot of snoring 🥺), we descended more than 2000 meters, first to the charming village of Bulnes, and then through the beautiful Cares Gorge. We had a welcome first real shower in our hotel in cozy Caín.

      Day 3: Caín - Fuente Dé - 17km, 1600m ↗️, 1000m↘️, 8h30

      We embarked on our toughest day and immediately got lost. We crawled and stumbled through the thick forest and had to use all our navigation skills to finally find a path. Luckily we were rewarded with some of the best views, which we could enjoy all by ourselves, except for the vultures, horses, cows and ibex.

      Lesson learned: creating a route on Komoot yourself ensures adventure!
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    • Day 43

      Wanderung Ruta de Cares

      September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Versuch Nr. 2: 06:00 der Wecker klingelt und wir hörten es leider wieder regnen, aber diesmal entschieden wir zumindest mal rauf zum Startpunkt zu fahren.
      Dort angekommen war es noch finster, die Sterne glitzerten und es war so friedlich und ruhig. 🌙
      Wir tranken noch einen Kaffe und packten alles zusammen für die Wanderung.
      Um 08:30 starteten wir los, vor uns lagen 22 Kilometer Fußmarsch, aber wir freuten uns riesig darauf. 🙂

      Anfangs waren wir die Einzigen am Weg. Es war eine unbeschreiblich mystische Stimmung .. tiefer Nebel zog hin und her und so langsam erstrahlen die ersten Gipfel im Sonnenlicht. Einfach magisch. ✨
      Am Weg trafen wir einen nicht so entspannten Ziegenbock der lautstark nach seiner Herde schrie, zur Sicherheit warteten wir ab, bis er ging. 🙈

      In der ersten Stunde ging's berg auf und wir machten Höhenmeter. Wie das geschafft war, ging es gerade weiter. Der Weg ist in den Felsen gebaut und auf einer Seite geht es runter, natürlich ohne Geländer, aber er ist schön breit. Öfters mussten wir durch Höhlen durchwandern wo es teilweise ganz Finster drinnen war. 😅

      Beim Hingehen verzog sich die Sonne schnell und der Himmel war bedeckt und es nieselte auch manchmal, aber der Weg war trotzdem wunderschön! 😍

      Am Weg lernten wir eine sehr sehr liebe Frau aus Deutschland kennen, die sich nach einen tollen Gespräch uns anschloss und wir gingen gemeinsam weiter. 🙂
      Ein Highlight waren definitiv die vielen Katzen, die wir beim Ort Cain gesehen haben. Die waren so zutraulich, sprangen gleich auf den Schoß und ließen sich streicheln. 🐈🐈‍⬛

      Da die Wanderung kein Rundweg ist, muss man denselben Weg wieder zurückgehen, aber bei diesen Ausblick machten wir das gerne. 😍

      Am Nachmittag kam sogar die Sonne raus und alles erstrahlte noch mal in einen ganz anderen Licht. ☀️ Am liebsten wären wir ständig stehen geblieben, um die Landschaft zu bewundern und Fotos zu knipsen. 🏞️📷
      In der Schlucht ragten links und Rechts riesige Felsen in den Himmel und unten ein kleiner Fluss namens Cares mit einen Kristallklaren hellblauen Wasser.

      Überall hörte man Glocken von den Ziegen, die frei herum laufen. 🐐 Finde das immer so faszinierend wie, die die Felswände einfach so rauf marschieren. 🙈
      Am letzten Stück der Wanderung begleitete uns ein Ziegenbock und stellte sich direkt neben unseren Bus auf einen Felsen und schaute uns neugierig zu, und der wollte fast einsteigen in unseren Rüdi. 😅

      Nach 8,5 Stunden Fußmarsch waren wir erledigt, aber überglücklich. Wir fuhren noch zum Stellplatz, aßen etwas und ließen den Abend mit einem wohlverdienten Bier gemütlich ausklingen.

      Das war ein wunderschöner Tag! 😍

      (Übrigens Fotos von der Spiegelreflex folgen die nächsten Tage 🙂)
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    • Day 42

      gemütlicher Sonntag

      September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Um Punkt 06:00 klingelte der Wecker denn, wir wollten wandern gehen. 🥾 Gleich nach den lautstarken Wecker gebimmel hörten wir das, es draußen regnete - oh nein .. kein optimales Wetter für 22 Kilometer Fußmarsch. 🙈
      Wir studierten kurz den Wetterbericht und entschieden uns morgen zu gehen, da es da ein bisschen besser meldete. Also wieder rüber gedreht und weiter geschlafen. 😴

      Am Nachmittag blinzelte sogar ein bisschen die Sonne durch und das nutzen wir natürlich gleich, um eine Runde Spazieren zu gehen. Es ging vorbei an einen wunderschön türkisblauen Fluss. 🏞️

      Ansonsten war nicht viel los, wir machten uns einen richtig gemütlichen Sonntag. 🙂
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    • Day 41

      Picos de Europa Vorgeschmack

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Die Nacht war relativ unruhig und vor allem für Tino kurz.😴 Es regnete viel in der Nacht, normalerweise kein Problem im gut gedämmten Bus, aber dieses blöde Blechschild, was hinder dem Bus stand, macht so einen Lärm, wenn der Regen drauf einprasselte, unglaublich. 🌧️

      Naja, nach dieser Nacht fuhren wir das letzte Stück zu den Picos de Europa. Der letzte Abschnitt in den Bergen war atemberaubend, einfach wunderschön und machte uns Lust auf die Wanderung. 🏞️

      Wir wollten eigentlich direkt beim Beginn des Wanderpfades schlafen, haben uns aber dann doch für den Parkplatz im Dörfchen entschieden. Denn oben in den Bergen hatten wir keinen Empfang und da wir vor der 22km Wanderung unbedingt das Wetter checken wollten, entschieden wir uns für den Parkplatz.

      Wir kochten, aßen und stellten unsere Wecker auf 6 Uhr, um rechtzeitig los wandern zu können und gingen ins Bett. ⏰
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    • Day 10

      Almost a Camino day!🙄

      August 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Yes, almost a Camino day!
      Today, we had a new tour guide, David, Juan's 5 year old grandson. He was very cute and led the way for the first half of the day's walking. He scooted around with boundless energy, spoke Spanish, and all of the teachers in the group (I think 7 of us) oohed and aahed and smiled benevolently 🙄😂. Poor child!
      Our walk was a short 14km today, with 550m of descent and only 150m of ascent, but I'm sure you'll have guessed the sting in the tail...😆😫😖
      The day started out fantastically well, though, with a 2.5 hour wander through beech forest and a jungle of fern, which was head height and quite imposing. There was a tiny bit of uphill walking (no climbing, thank goodness), and a lot of gentle downhill walking. All in all, it really was very camino-ish and a massive change to what we'd experienced over the previous 5 days.
      The scenery was magnificent, and we were able to pinpoint where we'd already walked between the eastern, central and western massifs. I think it's photo 7 that shows parts of all 3 of them.
      At one point, we walked along a concrete path, which was hard underfoot. We were given the option of continuing on this road into the village of Tielve, or taking the older, original path. We all chose the path, which was pretty tough but short and, before we knew it, we were sitting on the terrace of the local bar enjoying our packed lunch of tuna salad and Kitkat, a coke, and some delicious local Cantabrian blue cheese. This one had been matured for 4 months in one of the local cheese caves and was really strong and smelly 😋😋😋.
      After lunch, our new tour guide was picked up by his grandma and we were all given the opportunity to return to the hotel with them. Tempting though it was, we were all keen to finish our week's walking on a high (did I mention that sting?🙄)
      The last hour and a half was the old path between Tielve and Sotres before the road was built and, you guessed it, was the 150m ascent😖. The path was rocky and narrow, as well as pretty steep. I was always grateful when there were walkers coming towards us so that I could do the polite thing and stop😅.
      In photo 8, you can see a cave. This was the last of Juan's stories 😊 - his wife's aunt was born in this cave during the Spanish Civil War - there's an entrance to the back of the cave. Franco supporters in the area reckoned the farmers were all communists and tried to get rid of them all. They fled to the hills, quite literally, and lived off the land. Apparently, the baby was born then smuggled back to Sotres, where the family still live, and fostered by a 'safe' family for 2 years. Living in the hills was particularly difficult as they couldn't even risk lighting a fire for fear of being found.
      Juan's a really interesting bloke, with lots of amazing local knowledge and experiences.
      We finally arrived, thankfully, at a viewpoint at the top of the village where we were able to stop for a quick break before a short and very slow walk back to the hotel.
      Dinner tonight was a selection of tapas, followed by goat and chips, then something extremely creamy and yummy.😋😋😋
      I still managed to get to bed by 10.00pm, though, I was already packed and ready for the off tomorrow.
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    • Day 30

      Picos de Europa

      September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Von Poncebos nach Caín de Valdeón und zurück.
      25km lang, dafür keine 500Hm vermutlich. Eine wunderschöne, aber lange Wanderung an einer sehr hohen Schlucht entlang, mit obligatorischem Eisbaden im Fluss 🥶Read more

    • Day 73

      Huckepack

      July 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Nördlich von Porto fahren wir durch grüne Berglandschaft der spanischen Grenze entgegen. Wir entschieden uns, noch in Portugal unsere Wäsche zu waschen, denn hier ist es, genauso wie in Frankreich, am Intermarché sehr unkompliziert. Man startet die Maschine und kann daweile ganz gemütlich im Supermarkt einkaufen.
      Dann passierten wir ganz ohne Schild und Vorwarnung die Grenze. Einzig ein Blick auf die Uhr verriet, dass wir schon in Spanien sein mussten, denn uns wurde eine ganze Stunde geklaut.
      Da wir alle keine Lust mehr hatten zu fahren, bogen wir einfach links ab und fanden einen netten Übernachtungsplatz an einem glasklaren Fluss unterhalb eines Klosters und eines fast verlassenen Ortes. Außer ein paar Schafen samt Hütern hatte sich niemand weiter in diese Einsamkeit verirrt.
      Am nächsten Tag ging es, nach einer kleinen Wanderung, zu unserem eigentlichen Ziel- las Medulas.
      Dort übernachteten wir an einem See.
      Bei 33 Grad starteten wir am darauffolgenden Morgen eine Wanderung rund um die Las Médulas. Die außergewöhnliche Landschaft ist durch die Römer entstanden, denn für sie war die Region die wichtigste Goldmine des römischen Reichs. Sie durchlöcherten die Berge und schwemmten dann mit großen Mengen Wasser das Edelmetall heraus.
      Obwohl wir mit sehr vielen Menschen vom Parkplatz gingen, waren wir nach ein paar hundert Metern schon wieder völlig allein, denn unser Weg führte uns zuerst eine lange Zeit in der prallen Sonne um das Massiv herum bis wir zum Aussichtspunkt gelangten. Von dort hatte man einen grandiosen Ausblick über die roten Berge. Der Rückweg führte uns vorbei an den "Felsen", durch einen dichten, blühenden Esskastanienwald.

      Und da wir von Bergen nicht genug bekommen, ging es danach gleich weiter ins richtige Gebirge. Weiter im Norden liegt der Nationalpark der Picos de Europa. Fast auf Meeresniveau beginnend, ragen die Berge hier bis zu 2600 m in die Höhe. Die Landschaft erinnert uns sehr an die julischen Alpen, sehr wild und felsig.
      Für Fabi ging es an drei Tagen im Huckepack nochmals auf Wanderschaft. Die Ruta del Cares führte uns am ersten Tag durch eine spektakuläre Schlucht. Am zweiten Tag wanderten wir nach Bulnes,ein kleines Bergdorf, vom dem ich gehofft hatte,dass man das Wahrzeichen des Nationalparks, den Naranjo de Bulnes (oder auch Picu Urriellu) sehen kann. Dieser versteckte sich aber leider hinter fetten Wolken.
      Am letzten Tag war das Wetter dann perfekt und wir starteten von Sotres aus Richtung Urrielluhütte. Und da war er, in seiner ganzen Schönheit stand der steile Zahn des Naranjo de Bulnes vor uns- ein einzigartiges Panorama für das sich der schweißtreibende Anstieg gelohnt hat!
      Gern wären wir noch etwas länger geblieben, denn hier gefiel es uns wirklich sehr!
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    • Day 4

      Making new friends 😊

      August 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 15 °C

      After yet another disturbed night's sleep (too hot, noisy fan) I had a pretty relaxed start to my day. I had to be at Bilbao Airport by 1130 to meet the Explore! rep and my other walking buddies, and reckoned it'd take me about 30 minutes to walk to the Intermodal (the big bus station) where I'd get the airport bus. It should've taken me that yesterday, but with my 180° mistakes... 'nuff sed!😂 Bilbao was just waking up, it being the weekend, and it was interesting dodging the street cleaners!
      Anyway, after a leisurely start and a sort of second breakfast at the Intermodal (tortilla of course!) I got to the airport with plenty of time to spare.
      Juan was already there, big Explore! sign displayed so I couldn't miss him, as were Becky and ... I've forgotten her name already - here we go🙄🤔😂. Could be Linda, but then it could be Sandra...
      Anyway, there are 13 of us and at the mo (I still haven't spoken to everyone) over half of us are from the education sector 😫😆 - what would you expect, though? It's already resulted in some very interesting conversations!
      We had a 3 hour minibus journey ahead of us, about 2 of which skirted the same route Julie and I had walked on the Norte last year - I much preferred this method of travel. Then, after a quick snack stop, it was another hour winding up and up into the Picos de Europa. There were some fantastic views over the edges of the roads 😱 and some pretty sharp hairpin bends with cows in the way!!!
      This is serious mountain climbing country (not that we'll be doing any of that) and there are lots of paths leading through the three massifs that make up the Picos, some of which we'll be tackling over the next week.
      Sotres is the highest town (village?) in the Picos and even has its own albergue! Camino, anyone?
      Everyone seems to be really lovely. We're a mixed bunch, but I've found 2 fellow scousers, so there should be a few laughs, too.
      First walk tomorrow is 19km, I think, but we don't start til 0930 so I think it's going to be just fine 😊😊😊. We have mist right now, but a good walking temperature of 22° is forecast. That'll do!
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    • Day 7

      Well!!!

      August 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Not sure what to call today apart from Well!!!
      The day was described in the brochure as a 10km walk with 1,150m of descent. Juan said it was around 12km. My fitbit tells me a different story😅. According to it, I've walked over 19km, which will probably be about 18km depending on the length of my stride🙄🤔😂.
      We began the day walking through a bit of a meadow, joining a sheep drove after about 15 minutes. It was pretty obvious that not many sheep, or shepherds, had used this track in a while, but it was a lovely meander through some very green countryside. There were a few hairy bits where we had to beat back the brambles and watch our step, but nothing compared to the previous 2 days, although I have the scratches to prove it was a hard day!😂
      We'd been told there would be a 'short' ascent of about 15 minutes at the end of the drove, but we just hadn't been told how steep it was 🙄🤬😅. It was, thankfully, a concrete path to the main road towards the village of Treviso, where we'd be enjoying a lunch stop, so it certainly wasn't the slippery surface we'd encountered on either day 1 or 2! A half hour route march along a thankfully level road took us to Treviso to enjoy our packed lunch. I'd ordered a cheese tortilla bocadilla (a large sandwich on crusty, Spanish bread). When I opened my lunch... well, it was a cheese bocadilla - no spread, no nothing, only cheese 🙄😂. I gratefully swapped with one of my walking buddies, who really enjoyed it. I had tortilla which was, to be honest, disappointing 😞 🙄. But a coke zero and a Mars Bar soon put that right!
      Treviso is in Cantabria and is one of the places that makes its own cheese, storing it in the cheese caves we'd seen on day 1, so there was a bit of a tasting and, I have to say, it is absolutely amazing 😋😋😋.
      Until 1991, Treviso was only served by the track we were going to tackle next. This was the 1,150m descent we'd read about, and was bloomin awful! Anyone wishing to visit a large city, e.g. Santander, had to take themselves off down this track, catch the bus and do their business, return to the track and ascend 1,150m!!! 1991! 33 years ago! Unbelievable and incredible! The local postie only visited a couple of times a week and I'm sure he travelled by mule or something similar! One of the photos shows a wiggle of white lines - that was our route😱🙄😂 - whilst the other shows the track meandering down the mountain.
      The track consisted of chunks of limestone, some tiny, some medium sized and some absolutely massive. I only managed to fall over once today - not bad, and no bones were broken 👍, but the sheer concentration we had to put in to staying upright was very tiring!
      We were lucky enough to see nesting vultures on the limestone rockface, but they were so difficult to photograph! Nothing will match the splendour of finding a Griffin vulture circling over your head, taking food to its young, born only 2 or 3 weeks ago. Yet another amazing experience.
      On our way down, we also found a herd of goats resting on the hillside. They were massive and followed us noisily as we left the valley.
      Our walk brought us to a hydro-electric station and then up to the minibus, thank goodness! We were all really tired (see pic of Nick😂) but before we got back to the hotel, we picked up Juan's grandson from school. He's 5 yrs old and very sweet🥰🥰🥰. A mad, raucous evening meal (I wasn't involved, I promise 🙄) has seen me in bed by 9.30pm! Think I might get the painkillers ready for the morning...
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