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Calbor

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    • Day40

      Filloval - Samos - Sarria

      May 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Porridge, love it! Das Frühstück eine Wohltat für das Bäuchlein, kein Toast oder Tortilla selbst der Bocadilla heute war für mich nicht attraktiv genug.
      Ich laufe los, es ist noch sehr kühl und grau, nach dem gestrigen Wasserfall, Blitz und Donner kam ich durchnässt in Fillobal an. Die Bar neben der Albergue eine Oase mit herrlichen Gerichten. So habe ich eine vegane Lasagne genossen.

      Ich denke heute gehört zu einer der schönsten Wanderungen, der Weg nach Tricastela ist wie in einem Bilderbuch. Es regnet richtig, fleißig durchstapfen, Socken und Füße pitschnass, das märchenhafte Gallizien bezaubert. Ankunft in Sarria, heute ein Appartement gebucht mitten im Zentrum, nicht schlafen in Papierbettwäsche, wie schön! Selber kochen, die Heizung ist an und eine Waschmaschine ist auch vorhanden, ich freu mich!
      Die letzten 129 Kilometer ab morgen. 😊
      Dann fängt Disneycamino an. Die ersten Feiertrüppchen trinken sich warm, junge Spanier die die letzten Kilometer feiernd bewegen, dafür muss man 2 Stempel am Tag abholen.
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      Traveler

      wunderbar... entspannt und voller Ruhe

      5/23/22Reply
      Traveler

      Stefanie, das macht ihr in Schottland auch ✔️🍀🍀♥️👍🏼viel Spaß!

      5/23/22Reply
      Traveler

      Morning, ich wünsche dir Sonne und einen wumderschönen Tag.

      5/23/22Reply
      Traveler

      Danke liebe Sabine ♥️

      5/23/22Reply
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    • Day25

      Sivil - Tag der Entspannung & Reflexion

      May 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      So heute mal ganz nach dem Motto "Tag der Entspannung und Reflexion.

      Nach dem Reiseführer bin ich am Tag 27 - 28. Zieh ich meine zwei Tage Anreise ab, bin ich also seit dem Start in Saint Jean Pied de Port an Tag 23, sprich ich bin 4,5 Tage im Voraus.

      Um 06:40 bin ich heute früh in Samos losgestöckelt und der Weg führte hauptsächlich durch Wald. Hoch und runter, dann wieder weite Felder und Wiesen,dann wieder Wald. Irgendwie war heute der Zauber inne, denn es fühlte sich heute an wie in einem Märchenwald, voller skurriler Baum- und Buschgewächse, die aussahen wie Märchenfiguren. Es muss sie wohl doch geben, die Welt der Elfen, Fabelwesen und Naturgeister. Nun wie auch immer war ich voll verzaubert und hingerissen. Nach lediglich 8,1 km und es war gerade erst kurz nach halb neun, kam die erste Kaffeequelle und der Ort der vielen Möglichkeiten.

      Zunächst ein Kaffee, dann die Frage an den Mann ob hier auch übernachten möglich ist, dann Kaffee zwei mit selbstgebackenen lecker Kuchen für umsonst, dann die Frage an den Mann wieviel für eine Übernachtung? 40€! 😱. Danke zu viel für die Kasse. Angezogen, losgegangen, überleg 🤔, zurück und Frage an den Mann : 40€ oder 14€? Leider 40€.. 😭😭😭 Losgegangen und Frau und Mann : holla chicco alemagne:holla......

      Wieder zurück. Ok du kannst für 25€ bleiben

      Ich 🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳 Juhuuuuuuuuu + ok!!!! 👍🏻

      Und so bin ich seit halb neun hier und siehe Fotos und Eindrücke 😍😍😍😍

      Um 14 Uhr gibt es was zu essen..... Hausfrau /-Manns Kost. Der Mann (Enrico) sagt : manchmal schmeckt, manchmal schmeckt nicht 😳🤔😂😂

      Und das Beste!!! Ein Bett.... Ein so richtiges, normales, kuscheliges, gemütliches Bett 😍😍😍

      Fühl mich hier wie im Märchenland und drinnen wie im Palast 😬😊

      Und ständig entdeckt man neue verspielte, kreative und liebevolle Ecken.

      Später mehr. Muss mich jetzt erst mal noch ein wenig umschauen hier und Gedanken sortieren denn bald kommt Santiago in ca 110 km und es macht sich so langsam Wehmut breit, ist die Reise und deren Ende langsam absehbar und Santiago de Compostela der nächste wichtige Ort für mich nach dem Cruz de Ferro, und im inneren bin ich da noch weit aus mehr als 110 km entfernt 😢.

      Aber es gibt ja noch das kleine Anhängsel an die Reise ans Ende der Welt und dem Meer.

      Mir graut es schon jetzt so langsam vor Berlin.

      Was ist Realität? Das vorher? Das jetzt?

      Eins weiß ich jedoch. Der Camino wird fürs erste das Ende in Berlin sein, wenn ich dort wieder ein Foto im Spiegel schieße wie am Tag des Aufbruchs. Vorher gibt es noch Santiago de Compostela, Finesterre und das Meer, Wiedersehen in der Heimat mit Familie, sabi 🐈 und sandy 🐈, Freunden. Also noch ein paar schöne Tage vor Berlin.

      Muss nachdenken

      Und noch ein paar lustige Fotos hinzugefügt

      Sag doch heute ist Märchentag 😂😂😂😂
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      Traveler

      ♥️♥️♥️👍😂

      5/17/22Reply
      Traveler

      👍👍❤️

      5/17/22Reply
      Traveler

      😂😂😂😂😊👍👍💕

      5/17/22Reply
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    • Day29

      Desperate for a toilet!

      August 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      There were a few small villages between Samos and Sarria (the big town 4k before today's destination), but either they had no facilities at all, or they were closed.
      I needed a toilet and was holding it, wishing for another village with an open bar around the next turn... and prepared to settle for a tall grass patch offering some privacy.
      When I got to an accessible area with some trees and grasses, it was very hard to take position because of the berry bushes, which were full of thorns, so I desisted and kept walking a bit more.
      Then I got to the place in the pictures. It was an albergue and cafe/restaurant, with 'open' signs but no one there. The cafe was clearly closed. The albergue door was unlocked. I stepped in and it was all dark and silent inside. I called 'Hola!' and looked around until I found the toilets. I was saved!
      A hand written note inside the toilet door asked for a 50c donation to help with maintenance costs, and I gladly complied with the request.
      Walking became much easier after that!
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    • Day30

      Day 30: Triacastela a Sarria

      May 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Two routes today, and two options. I always find I struggle with this, as I never know which path to take. Perhaps a bit reflective of me in real life?

      After a few cervezas watching the match the night before, and having ingratiated myself with a new Camino family, I leave alone and feel many emotions. Perhaps a little lonely? I start down the route to Sansol, where there is a monastery. But something makes me stop, and I turn around and go the countryside route to San Xil instead. Just as I retrace my steps I run into Lorna, Iraxe and Sophie from the night before. So now, I walk with a group! Maybe the Camino does provide?

      The walk truly is beautiful today, traversing countryside paths and by farms, all green and fresh.
      I keep a good pace and walk with Lolo, a Spaniard from Extremadura who is a part of this Camino family. We enjoy a good conversation about work and life and balance, and the short walk of 18km is soon over as we arrive into Sarria.

      A significant point, as this means I reach the last 100km of the route. I feel strange as I enter the city, a bit lost and a bit alone. I check into my albergue and then I receive a message from Lolo to meet the group down at the waterfront for octopus - a typical gallegan dish!

      This ends up being a really fun evening, with far too many chupitos and beers and not enough food! But I really enjoyed my time. Iraxe gave me a red string bracelet, to signify a bond that is unbreakable, and I am an honorary member of the family, even if just for a little while.
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      Traveler

      Don’t reach ahead and fear the empty space. Step into it and embrace. You belong in whatever space you find yourself.

      5/30/22Reply
      Traveler

      you are doing brilliantly xxxxGrandma

      5/30/22Reply
       
    • Day31

      Day 28 - Thank you, Mother Nature!

      October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      “And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul." - John Muir

      Day 28 - A Balsa to Outskirts of Sarria - 17km (13.5 + 3.5) - approx 3.5hrs for initial walk

      Today was a nature day and I was consumed with the views, the animals and plants I saw along the way.

      I left in the dark today at 7:50 am and the first thing I heard was an owl hooting. So beautiful and so haunting. It reminded me that today is the last day before Sarria and that I should drink it all in.

      I was worried about walking alone in the dark, as I knew I would be walking in the woods and going uphill. Figured maybe if I could see the hills it may be easier hahaha. As if! All that fear of walking alone in the dark faded fast. Like - within 50ft of my Albergue. I saw an open door on the left with pilgrims milling about. Curious as always, I had a peek. I had stumbled on Art’s Art Gallery. He had only opened a few minutes ago and already he had a full house. Art is an artist, originally from Scotland. That’s all I know - other than the fact that he has this amazing Camino gallery in the middle of bloody nowhere. I purchased a few postcards to send home since they are so unique. And I love supporting the artist himself. After I paid, he gave me a sello (stamp) in my credencial, and then drew an abstract picture for me in there too. As this credencial is on a glossy sort of paper, he was able to do the work with a metallic marker and a bit of paint. I had to wait while it dried, so I didn’t smear all over the place. While I waited, Art asked if he could do a blessing for us. There were 6 of us in the shop at the time and he spoke a blessing over us as pilgrims, to help us on our way. It was actually pretty emotional and I am not even very religious. It just seemed “right” at the time.

      I knew I would regret not buying one of the larger prints so I asked if he had the one I was interested in. Luckily he did, so I got that too. I have been very good on this trip. This is the only the second item I have purchased en-route that isn’t food or a necessity for the journey. Just as I was leaving the shop, in walks Paula, from my first couple of days! It was so good to see her, and I am glad she continues on this route. She had at one point decided to go over to the Portuguese route, but then stayed here instead.

      After leaving the shop, it was light enough that I didn’t have to worry about walking alone in the dark. Now all I had to worry about were the damned hills. And I was right to worry, as they were long and steep. I took it slowly and huffed and puffed my way up each one. I sat for a while at San Xil, with Paula and then went on ahead. I spent a lot of time looking at the stunning scenery, talking to horses, taking photos of fungi and slugs and generally just taking my time and drinking it all in. After today my Camino will change as there will be so many people leaving from Sarria that I just feel this may be my last change to enjoy the walk as it should be enjoyed.

      Once I hit the straightaways (and could breath again!) I started to make up for lost time. The first 1.5km took me almost an hour. But the next 3 I did in the next hour, even with some uphills climbs (not as bad as the first half).

      What goes up must come down….and down I went. And down, and down, and down. Some zig zagging was necessary so I didn’t blow my knees out. My calves were crying from the uphill, my knees were starting to sing from the steep downhill and my ankles joined in the chorus for good measure! Again, I made up a bit of time on the straightaways, so I didn’t do too badly. Paula had passed me ages ago on an uphill. But, at the end of this stage of very steep downhills, I caught up with her again. She still has bad knees from day 1, and is slow and careful on the Dow hills.

      I stopped at another hippy dippy Albergue with Paula (looks like they sleep in a barn here…) for tea and biscuits, and a fresh apple form their orchards - it was crisp, sweet and perfect! When I looked at my Fitbit, it had taken me just under 2 hrs for 4.5km. Kinda sad, but, I made it!

      I had arranged to meet Annette as Aguiada, as my path and hers (she went via Samos) merged at this point. So, I soon headed off again for the next 5 km which I walked mostly alone. I did walk a bit with a man named Harold whom I had met at the gallery and again at the hippy dippy Albergue. He has been travelling the world for 4 months and has two left to go…. Lucky bugger! Once I got to Aguiada, he continued in his way and I stopped to wait for Annette. I had gotten there at noon and she was due at 1pm. Her path was 6km longer than mine, but not as steep. As it turns out, she didn’t get there until almost 2:30! I was quite content to sit in the sun, read my book and play on my phone :-) After she had rested for a bit, we headed off for the last 5km into the city. I am staying just before the city at a campground, but she is in the city.

      I had wanted to stay at this campground since I had seen someone else posting about it. I have a cool little camping cabin with kitchenette, bathroom and shower, dining area, sofa and a freaking double bed with real sheets!! What a treat! It is so nice and peaceful here. Especially as I am the only one in the whole campground!! As it happens, I ended up walking another 1.5 each way, to the supermarket. I wanted to cook for myself tonight. There was limited selection, so I got the fixings for poor pilgrims streak, egg and chips (and a Snickers ice cream to eat i
      on the walk back!). Dinner wasn’t too bad either!! I also now have 4 hard boiled eggs to take along with me tomorrow and the next day. So, win win! I sat outside to eat my dinner but the sun was setting and my cool, private campground started to get eerie and creepy, so I came inside, locked the door and closed the blinds hahaha.

      Fingers crossed for a good sleep and a quick walk tomorrow. Around 22km so I know I am going to be pooched by the time I get there!
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      Traveler

      Awesome!

      10/13/22Reply
      Traveler

      So pretty!

      10/13/22Reply
      Traveler

      Oh my God! So beautiful!

      10/13/22Reply
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    • Sep29

      Triacastela to Sarria via Samos

      September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

      We left the albergue Atrio just after 7am and wished we had waited until daylight. No fun walking in the rain and the dark. But despite rain all day it was one of our most loved days on the Camino… quiet, peaceful, lush green. Now in Sarria waiting for the restaurants to open.Read more

      Traveler

      Esa sombrilla es muy moderna era con una oka de plátano que tenía q taparte jajajaja

      10/6/22Reply
       
    • Oct18

      Triacastela to Sarria

      October 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Shortish walk today just 17.9km. There was a bit of vertical nonsense though. Mostly through cow country again. These are all dairy herds I think.

      (While I think of it we had a top notch 3 course menu del dia last night up the street at the Complexo Xacabeo. 12€ each. A very well run establishment.)

      Leaving in the dark as usual after breakfast at our pensión, Casa David, we climbed steadily for a couple of hours up past San Xil. At the peak we were up 400 meters.

      The rest of the walk was a steady descent of 628 meters to Sarria.

      We refueled with some snacks from the vending machine in the village of Montán.

      We stopped for lunch at Pintín where we had the local version of a meat pie: not bad.

      About 3km on a dirt track beside the road to enter Sarria.

      The weather was cool, dry and sunny with occasional periods of very strong winds.

      We quickly found our digs in the Pensión Rua Peregrino.

      This is a fairly big town but definitely rural. We heard cows mooing a kilometer or so from our pension. You can also smell cow stuff from the middle of town when the wind is right.

      We will run a few errands when the shops open later.

      We are now about 113km from Santiago. We expect to cover it in 5.5 more days. Many people just walk from here to Santiago. We are expecting heavier traffic due to those joining the route here.
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      Very proud of you two boys. I enjoy you daily reports. Looking forward to hearing about it in person. Lots of love, Mum. [Margaret]

      10/18/22Reply
      John Esler

      Thanks Mum, I’m looking forward to a good sleep-in.

      10/19/22Reply
      Kevin Esler

      Thanks Mum. Hope you are well. We’re in the home stretch now.

      10/18/22Reply
       
    • Day38

      Day 36 - To Sarria

      October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      Day 36 - To Sarria
      26 kms; Difficulty 2/3
      23°C

      I mentioned yesterday how small Biduedo is (pop 31). Well it’s basically just a farm with a few extra buildings. In fact all the towns that I went through today were like that. I was dodging cow manure all day! The picture of the cow was within one of those towns.

      Today the trail was the final major descent. And I’m glad. It was really hard on my knees…..and I have good knees! I can’t imagine how those with “bad knees“ managed. I suspect many of them jumped head by taxi. I know some did.

      As shown above, today is day 36. Pretty well everyone who does Camino Francis, IF they walk the full way, will take more than a month. Of course there is a way to do it faster and that’s to “jump ahead” by taking a taxi, bus or even horse to subsequent parts of the trail. I think I can safely say that pretty much everyone I met either jumped ahead already or plans to. They do it for various reasons…..injuries, illness, time constraints, and some pre-plan to only do a portion of the Camino. And that’s fine. To each his own. Everyone does the Camino as they choose. None is wrong because it’s their Camino. I have chosen to walk the whole way. I honestly can’t think of anyone that I have met who walked every step.

      I stopped at a place that offered snacks by donativo (donation). It was an interesting place. They had several signs and there was a meditation group chanting off to the side.

      And I finally made it to Sarria. Everything hurt again. Going downhill is not easy!!?
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      Traveler

      I met a lady in Portugal who did the Camino Frances in 21 or 24 days, then decided to walk the Portuguese route as well. She liked to walk 30-40 km per day. I only saw her once, of course.

      10/14/22Reply
      Traveler

      Crazy! Then she’s the first I’ve heard of, lol. It's really unbelievable. 30 to 40 km per day! No normal person can sustain that. I met a lady from Italy who was an avid hiker. She said she had done 40 km the day before and she said she wouldn't do that again because it was too much!

      10/14/22Reply
      Traveler

      This lady was a bit crazy for sure.

      10/14/22Reply
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    • Day41

      Sarria

      October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Day 37 - The much anticipated rain started early morning. It was light so I set out fairly early. Somewhere along the way my Aussie friends caught up with me and I raced along with them and made it to Sarria in about 5.5 hours - a distance of about 13 miles, initially a climb and then a decent. Some parts of the walk were very reminiscent of the areas around Devanya in Uttrakhand. There was a very cute artists studio in the middle of nowhere that looked like the old stone buildings in Devanya.
      Did I mention that the number of pilgrims has increased by at least five fold. There are now hoards of loud people looking fresh and clean-clothed. People that started the Camino a few towns before Sarria. Gone is the peace and quiet we old timers are used to. There are lines at all the cafes. Luckily, since the lot of us that started at the beginning have gotten fitter over the days and miles - we can race past them. And if we start early, we can be ahead of the crowds.
      As we approached Sarria the rain picked up and we dashed into a coffee shop to warm up a bit. I then ran a few errands and stopped for a bite. As happens on the Camino - sometimes you keep running into the same people. This German guy Carsten, to whom I had once remarked that I see him at least once a day, walked in just as I was finishing a huge hamburger and was on my second beer. So I chatted with him at this warm friendly bar while waiting for my friend Ginny who had organized the apartment we are sharing tonight.
      Given the hoards, it’s getting harder to find places to stay, so we sat down this evening and planned and booked shared facilities till Santiago - Hurrah!
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      Traveler

      Beautiful!

      10/10/22Reply
      Traveler

      What an amazing location. Realize it’s the same building from the previous photo ❤️

      10/10/22Reply
      Traveler

      🤣 I’m throwing away my pedometer.

      10/10/22Reply
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    • Day67

      Triacastella - Sarriá

      November 10, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      26km - Albergue Oasis
      Aujourd'hui j'ai choisi une variante plus longue, 25km au lieu de 20, juste pour profiter plus des paysages de la Galice.
      Pas déçu, même si sur la première partie la brume ne nous a pas laisse profiter des beaux chemins forestiers, le seconde, au soleil ne m'a pas déçu.
      Pause dans une petite auberge de campagne, où j'ai demandé une banane, et où l'on m'a servi de la soupe et de la viande.... Un vrai délice, des hospitaliers très gentils.... Une belle surprise !
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      Traveler

      Ils ont le sens de l'hospitalité, les pèlerins sont bien accueillis !

      11/10/21Reply
      Traveler

      Jolis chemins forestiers

      11/10/21Reply
      Traveler

      un peu comme les chemins du Lot

      11/10/21Reply
       

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