Calzada del Coto

Burgos to Leon by bus: time to reflect and assess.

Crossing past the physical midpoint of the Camino Frances, Sahagun, by bus. I am bypassing the Palencia region, known to pilgrims as the Meseta, for several reasons; among them concerns about water quality, sun exposure, grass allergies, and time constraints. The last time I walked the Camino Frances, my body was stressed severely and so this time I am taking greater care, walking less ambitious distances. I know the Meseta is beautiful and I am sorry to miss it, but know that the walk from Leon to Santiago is full of challenges yet.
I have so far walked 210 km (126 miles).

Note: long essay on the physical aspects of walking the Camino ensues and may bore the bejesus out of many readers, so feel free to tune out here.

Mastering the physical Camino is what occupies the pilgrim for the first week or two:

The Camino Frances is really a long series of day-hikes: for most 30-40 days of this routine.

It may not seem like a big deal, but learning how to efficiently pack your mochilla (backpack)
without losing stuff and memorizing where you have stashed your stuff is critical. The mind gets foggy with fatigue and you need to have developed strict packing habits to avoid frustration and confusion.

Navigating uphill climbs and downhill descents according to conditions: uphill seems more intuitive but requires pacing your cardio/vascular energy. Your knees and ankles are mostly flexed so you use your leg muscles properly automatically.
The downhill runs are where pilgrims sustain the most injuries to their knees, shins and ankles. It’s crucial to keep your knees flexed and springy, using your upper leg muscles to balance and learning to zig zag, changing your pattern often to avoid fatigue, with concentration on each footfall. When slippery after rain, the downhills can be treacherous, so creeping down with utmost caution can be taxing for both body and mind.

Drinking water in proper quantities turns out to
be a matter of personal style:

The Camel: I spoke to a German pilgrim whose method was to drink a half liter of water just before setting off, drinking no water at all during his hiking, and filling up on a full liter at the end of the day.

The Sipper: Using an internal water bladder in the pack, you can sip water as you walk through a tube attached to your shoulder strap, thereby constantly hydrating as you go.

I’m now opting for the Camel method modified by occasional water breaks. I left my water bladder behind as it was too heavy and made the water taste bad.

Learning to turn off the world at will to get your rest: wherever you make your nest, whether on an albergue bed or on a park green in the shade, it’s important to tune out your surroundings with ear plugs and eye coverings to withdraw the senses and restore. It is the height of rudeness to disturb pilgrims who are resting mid-afternoon in the dorms...they are recuperating from their strenuous efforts that day.

Learning your limits:
I like to walk between 15-25 km (9-15 miles) per day depending on the elevations of the terrain.
Some pilgrims clock in 30-40km a day, with mileage on the body varying widely. By now, most blisters are becoming calluses for these pilgrims but they are often wearing knee braces, I notice.

Some send their packs ahead everyday and walk short distances. I carry my pack everyday (7-8 kilos) which limits my distance as I have decided to try to stop walking by 3-4 pm, so I have time to take care of laundry, shower, and bed setup.That is 4/5 hours per day of walking. This allows me time to slow down, take in my surroundings, enter a church here and there, and change my socks at least once during a break. No blisters for me so far and I still have all my toenails! Grateful for favorable conditions.

Everyone walks their own Camino.

Such a long essay! It’s a long bus ride to Leon and I’m so happy to be resting.Read more