Spain
Carmen de los Martires

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    • Day 101

      Blick auf Granada

      February 4 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Heute haben wir den Weg hoch zur Alhambra ausgekundschaftet... und unsere Überlegung mit den E-Bikes raufzufahren, hat sich damit endgültig erledigt.

      Nicht die Steigung selbst schreckt uns ab, sondern der enorme Großstadtverkehr und die nicht vorhandenen Radwege.

      Da wir auch keine Lust auf den Bus haben (man muss 2x umsteigen) werden wir uns morgen wohl einen Uber bestellen.

      Von der Alhambra ein Stück den Berg hinunter entdecken wir den Mirador del Barranco del Abogado, von wo wir einen tollen Blick auf die Stadt und die schneebedeckten Gipfel der Sierra Nevada haben.

      So schön es auch hier ist, wir sind froh, Dienstag weiterziehen zu können. Großstädte sind einfach nicht unser Ding. 🥴🙃
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    • Day 16

      Heute Stadttour Granada

      October 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Heute habe wir erstmal gemütlich gefrühstückt. Mit Rührei, Schinken und Marmelade. Nutella darf auch nicht fehlen (für Jan). Dann haben wir uns fertig gemacht und sind mit unseren Rädern wieder mitten ins Getümmel. Mit dem Fahrrad erst auf einer Feldstraße durch Orangenplantagen und Schotterpiste und lt. Navi hätten wir über eine Straße müssen und dann links, aber der Weg war zu Ende. Und ein kleiner Bach (knöchelhoch) lag vor uns. So wie es ausschaut, sind hier einige schon entlang gefahren und mussten auch den Bach irgendwie überqueren. Ein provisorischer Steg ca 10 cm breit mit Seil war vorhanden. Aber wir konnten nicht mit den Fahrrädern auf die andere Seite kommen. Sabine hat es auch nicht so mit der Balance. Bretter und Steine haben wir gesammelt und haben versucht ohne nassen Füße über den Bach zu kommen.
      Anschließend ging es weiter in die Stadt. Kurvten über viele Kreisverkehre und sind sicher an Touristik Office angekommen. Wir kauften uns Ticket für den „Hop on Hop off“ City train. Zwei Stunden sind wir durch die verschiedenen Stadtteilen von Granada gefahren. Wir waren beide sehr begeistert von der Stadt mit den vielen kleinen Gassen und den verschiedenen großen Plazas. So schöne Cafés, mit Snacks und Restaurant und auch viel zum shoppen. Nach unserem Restaurantbesuch sind wir wieder zurück zum Stellplatz. Der ist heute voll, kein Platz mehr frei. Aber klar zum Wochenende sind die Stellplätze in so Großstädten sehr begehrt. Jan hat wieder alles eingepackt. Und mal schauen wo wir morgen hin fahren. Wieder näher ans Meer. Cartagena oder Alicante ?
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    • Day 7

      We explore Granada

      September 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      We decided to do a bit of a wander on foot to get to know Granada but then came across a little hop-on, hop-off train which takes tourists round the key spots of the city. Most major cities offer either the little trains or the bright re double-decker buses. Quite on the spur of the moment, and since we definitely weren’t going to be seeing the palace, at least on this day, we decided it was a good way to get a feel for the city. As it turned out we hopped off after a couple of stops, wandered round for a bit then hopped on for a second short ride. After that, we did it all on foot including the long steep climb back to our hotel.

      While there are a few interesting buildings to be seen and a lot of attractive small squares and parks, we weren’t as inspired by Granada as we had been by Toledo and Madrid. Alhambra Palace is the only show in town and we really hope that we can score tickets, though our chances appear quite slim.

      That night we decided that, rather than eat at the hotel we’d try and scout out a restaurant somewhere nearby. There weren’t a lot of close by and we didn’t fancy the steep walk down towards the city and then the stagger home afterwards. Purely by chance we stumbled across Jardinas Albertos just a couple of hundred metres away, and it was outstanding! A great outdoor dining area, impeccable service and fantastic tasty food. They offer some traditional Nasrid dishes, and ordered the chicken and the lamb, both of which were outstanding. The chicken is described as: “Chicken Medallions Stuffed with Spinach Nuts, and Honey Sauce with Rice and Sauteed Vegetables.,” and very flavoursome it is too. Mary’s lamb dish is, “Oven Baken Sliced Lamb Leg with Fried Breadcrumbs Baby Green Peppers and Yogurt Sauce,” and is every bit as good as it sounds. It wasn’t the cheapest meal we’ve had since we’ve been away but it was definitely the best. We might even get back for a return visit before we leave.
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    • Day 18

      Heute: spanischer Großstadtverkehr

      April 15 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

      Zumindest wohl für die erste halbe Stunde, da ich einmal komplett durch Granada muss. Aber zuerst einmal "reichhaltiges", spanisches Frühstück: Kaffee, tostada, Orangensaft für 7 Euro. Das ganze wird kredenzt von einer eher unmotivierten und grenz-freundlichen Bedienung. Gut, dass ich die nächsten Tage wieder Selbstversorger bin ... 😉Read more

    • Day 28

      Alhambra (Granada)

      August 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C

      Die Alhambra war auch eine der Hauptattraktionen auf meiner Reise, das meist besuchte Monument in Spanien! Das ist das einzige, was ich 4 Tage vorher gebucht habe, weil die Tickets so schnell weg gehen… Ich bin also auf dem Weg, 2h von Córdoba, da bekomme ich einen Anruf von GetYourGuide (über die ich gebucht habe), dass die Alhambra überbucht ist, also heute nicht besucht werden kann, ich frage nach morgen: die nächsten 4 Tage ausgebucht! Das kann nicht sein, dachte ich mir… Vielleicht gibt es ja noch Tickets vor Ort, nein, gab es nicht… Sie meinten, ich sollte es online probieren, für die kommenden Tag… Online auch, 4 Tage ausgebucht… sehr traurig gehe ich vom Ticket Office, aktualisiere noch einmal, plötzlich! Ein Ticket verfügbar, für heute! Ich hab es sofort reserviert und gebucht, vor mir 50 Leute, die auch probiert haben rein zu kommen… Man, was für ein Glück 🥲… Ich besuche die Stadtburg, ein unfassbarer Anblick!!! Wahrscheinlich mein Highlight dieser Reise! Der maurische Einfluss, mit den muslimischen Nasridenpalästen, der Palast Karls V.,, die Festung Alcazaba. Einfach alles ist hier monumental! Ich bleibe viele Stunden hier und lasse die Geschichte auf mich wirken (als Historiker komme ich mir sogar manchmal etwas dumm vor, weil ich so viele Sachen noch nicht gehört habe, aber ich lerne sehr fleißig dazu 😅)… Abends in der Altstadt durchstreife ich die Gassen, heute gibt es keine Zigarre, sondern Shisha in einer arabischen Bar, ich fühle mich wieder woanders, nämlich in 1000 und eine Nacht, die Altstadt ist sehr muslimisch geprägt!
      Wie vielfältig kann Spanien sein? Ich habe England, Italien und das Abendland erlebt in den letzten beiden Tagen! Und ich hatte so ein unfassbares Glück, dass ich den Alhambra heute besuchen konnte, ich kann es kaum fassen!!! Hat mir da vielleicht der Frosch, den ich in Salamanca gefunden habe Glück gebracht?! 🐸
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    • Day 25

      Generalife Gardens

      September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Went back up to the Alhambre today to look around these gardens. The summer palace of the Caliphs. Very beautiful and loads of tourists to dodge. Really wanted to go to the Hammam Spa today too but it was booked out. 😌. We went to one in Cordoba and had a massage plus all the hot and cold pools and steam room treatments. It was divine. We are still not recovered from all the hiking we’ve done. Our legs don’t like any of the hills much after what we already did. 🥾🏔🏔🏔🏔🤪Read more

    • Day 6

      Toledo-Granada, a potentially hairy ride

      September 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Brian was always apprehensive about this part. A different car - a manual at that - a foreign country, the wrong side of the road and a long trip. What could possibly go wrong? The good thing was that we’d faced this challenge several times previously in France, Portugal and Israel so knew what to expect. We collected the Skoda Octavia from Europcar in Toledo mid-morning and headed off towards Granada, The major worry comes from Brian’s tendency to steer too close to the right-hand side of the road and risk either going into the dirt or having Mary remind Brian that we’re headed straight for a line of parked cars.

      We were lucky this time as we were setting off on fairly quiet four-lane highways, which provided a good opportunity to get used to the aforementioned challenges. Something we commented on when we drove previously in Portugal was the excellent lane discipline shown by all motorists. Everyone sticks to the nearside lane unless overtaking slower traffic. They signal well before they pull out, and the moment they pass the slower vehicle they signal and then dive back into the nearside lane. Sometimes you almost feel as though they’re cutting you off, but it’s far less frustrating than having to contend with the poor lane discipline and stupidity of so many Australian drivers.

      The first half of the 390km drive was through flat countryside, but as we headed further south it gave way to quite hilly terrain. We couldn’t believe how many olive trees there are. There were lengthy periods when all we could see nothing but olive trees stretching in all directions to the horizon.

      Eventually we reached the Hotel Porcel Alixares, which we’d booked in for four nights. It’s a couple of kilometres outside the city centre but only a couple of hundred metres from the Alhambra Palace, which is why we chose it. Our room is a very generous size and the hotel itself is beautiful. It was just after we’d checked in that we were met with two unexpected challenges. The first was in the form of an email from Vuelling, the airline which was supposed to be taking us from Barcelona to Amsterdam on 24 September. They were informing us of a threatened strike of ground handling staff on 21 to 24 September and suggested that we might care to change our flight to another date while there was the opportunity. We therefore pushed it back by a day to the 25th, which means an extra day at the parador just outside Barcelona and one day fewer in Amsterdam. In the typical “heads you lose, tails we win” world of travel we have to pay quite a bit extra in Barcelona but don’t get a refund for the unused night in Amsterdam. Ah well.

      Challenge number two arose when we tried to book tickets for the Alhambra. By government decree it seems, daily visitor numbers are restricted. That’s sensible enough, except that we didn’t know. The hotel staff were very understanding and tried hard to book us on an escorted tour, but they too are fully sold out There are no tickets of any sort available until early November...except for one thing. On the stroke of midnight each night any cancellations get released to the website for online bookings. It seems though that they get taken up literally within a few seconds. Brian set his alarm on the first night and tried to make a booking but was unsuccessful. All he achieved was a broken night’s sleep. The hotel staff have suggested that he come down to the foyer each night that we’re here at about 1145pm and they will try to make the bookings. Evidently this is a nightly routine for them, so watch this space.
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    • Day 24

      Granada Alhambra

      November 6, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Da gibt's nicht viel zu erzählen. Kommen und Staunen. Wer die Burg im innern sehen will, muß am Abend vorher ein Onlineticket buchen. Vor Ort ist das nicht möglich. 17 €. Der Garten und der ganze Komplex ohne Burg kostet nur 7 € und ist vor Ort buchbar.Read more

    • Day 11

      We did it!!!

      February 4, 2020 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Sometimes. Like today. I envy the youth of my daughter. Yes. I might was able to go into town after the Alhambra visit.
      But my feet said no. We were parked on top of the hill, and again. ..No! I did not want to walk it up...again...

      So. Yes. We did it. Thé Alhambra.
      Was it worth a day's travel budget?
      Yes . It was.
      Quite impressive.
      As we have seen the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul many things reminded me of that.
      I think Alhambra was more impressive.
      But you have to see for yourself.
      Now. Goodnoodles, because we overspent, and stay on this parking, to pay the robbery in the morning. .. it's more expencive than a camping. But it has no facilities at all.
      Tomorrow another "wanna see".

      5 days left before we sail to Africa.
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    • Day 22

      UFC and Alhambre

      September 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Today started with an early morning, about 4 am. This was to watch the UFC that was in Australia, making the time difference horrible. But I forced myself through it because it was an amazing card with plenty of Aussie fighters. Not to mention, one of my favourite fighters was fighting against one of the fighters I dislike the most. Unfortunately, the fighter I wanted to win was a HUGE underdog, paying $6 odds. The first two fights were huge first round knockouts from an Australian and a New Zealander, getting the crowd, and myself, incredibly excited. But, due to watching in my bed, with a room full of 7 other people, peacefully sleeping, I had to control myself slightly. That was quite easy for the next fight, as the crowd favourite Aussie got obliterated by a Russian giant. Controlling my excitement became harder, however, as the main event started. Sean Strickland, the underdog and the guy I wanted to win, essentially walked down his opponent for the full 25 mins, barely taking a hit and fighting an incredibly well coordinated encounter. He was smart, avoided hits and counter punched, only throwing hands when he knew he could land and escape any counter. By the time the fifth round ended, I was so excited to see him as the champion. The 5th ranked contender overcame all the odds to clearly and definitively beat the champ. When he was awarded the belt, I could barely control myself. Given that I was then running off an incredible amount of excitement, I struggled to get back to sleep. It would have been smart for me to go and wander, but there was nothing open for another couple hours, not even cafes. So I tried to sleep to no avail, dosing off for 10-15mins at a time before waking up again. Eventually, though, I figured it was time to see the town. There was plenty to see, and I only had a day to see it all.

      My first stop on my walk was the Monastery to Saint Jeronimo (Monasterio de San Jerónimo). This was cheap and very cool, coming with an audio tour that helps paint a picture as well as give background in the purpose and history of the building. Interesting facts like the tower that looks over the monastery was destroyed by Napolean Bonaparte during his conquests of europe in order to use the materials to build a bridge and bring his troops across. This was eventually rebuilt, and you may be able to see the different colours in the tower in the photos, but it's a cool fact nonetheless. It is a beautiful monastery with multiple levels that surround a patio of orange trees in the middle. Quite a strange design but awe inspiring regardless. I then went literally across the road, maybe 50m, to the Santuario de Ntra. Sra. del Perpetuo Socorro Granada. This was also quite cool but far less noteworthy. Finally, I put on an audioguide of the city and began to follow their route around the city. They explained that the suburbs of Albaicin and Sacromonte are the best to properly experience the Muslim influence over the city. The buildings are all white, with rocky streets, brown tiled rooves, gardens, and vine thickets growing all over the walls, with the flowers giving it a hint of colour to contrast the white and brown buildings. It was cool to experience a city within a city because it was so different from the rest of Granada. Not only this, but this suburb is where the best viewing platform is to see Alhambra, the main tourist attraction in Granada and maybe southern Spain. The Saint Nicholas viewpoint gives a perfect side profile of the Alhambra, perched utop the hill. And it looks incredible from there. Locals playing music and flamenco dancing makes this one of the most beautiful suburbs in Spain. At least that I have seen.

      But all this just got me excited to see the beast across the valley, the Alhambra. It is a MUST when in Granada, and I wasn't about to miss out, so I started the journey down the valley and back up the hill to see what was on offer. It was a bit of a fuck around however, as when I went to line up for tickets the lady told me that they were sold out for today and you can only buy tickets for the gardens. I was pretty disappointed so went off to figure a game plan. I wasn't sure if I would be staying another night in Granada, so i had to sort something out. I ended up going online to see what tickets were available, and I could see tickets available for the 10th of September (today). So I bought them, went back in line and showed her the ticket and she let me through. I was told, however, that the access to the palace can't be until 7 pm, so I had to kill sometime before that. As such, I did the garden part of the site before heading back down the hill for some lunch. I then got this huge rib sandwich that filled me to the brim while I watched the basketball world cup final. It worked out quite well. I could eat, have a drink, and watch the final while I waited for the time to align for the rest of the Alhambra tour. Eventually, it was time to head back up the hill and continue my visit. It did not disappoint either

      Although the gardens were great, the Alhambra was amazing. You could walk around for ages just exploring what was on offer. This was unfortunately not one of those times where the audio tour was free, and in fact, it was 6 euros, so I said fuck that and just walked around. But it was amazing nonetheless. I have so many photos from today that it was impossible to fit it into 20, but I will have to share the rest when I'm home. The views from the top were remarkable. The town looked so beautiful, but especially the Muslim suburbs that I had explored earlier in the day. The palaces were so unique and different it was hard to believe they were all situated within the one fortress. It even had a second garden, smaller but equally nice. Finally, though, 7pm hit, and I got to visit the Nasrid Palace, the main attraction of Alhambra, and I was blown away by the details of the building. People today would struggle to construct something so precise. The walls and archways through the doors cascaded with tiny depictions of smaller archways, maybe a few centimetres big. I can't really describe it. The corners that connect the walls to the ceiling weren't sharp. They were simply rounded but made up of tiny archways. It was so cool. This was a Muslim construction and, as such, was far different from the churches I had been visiting previously. There was no artwork on the walls. The walls were the artwork. Instead of painting people or things they made fascinating designs that extend the whole building - every inch of wall was a complicated and intricate series of alternating patterns that creates a building that feels like it's alive and moving as you walk through it. It is truly a unique spectacle. It almost looks rough and worn from afar and only when you get close do you realise that every little nook and dent is in fact a part of the design and had been put there intentionally, all intertwined and connected as a series of patterns. Even more beautifully still, they incorporate Muslim words and phrases into the walls, blending in with the patterns and shapes. How something like this could be so perfectly maintained is beyond my belief. Especially when you think about construction starting in 1238. Nearly a thousand years ago and it stands more clear and well constructed than most things built today. The Nasrid Palace was completed in the 1600s, but the whole site is in immaculate condition. It is mind-blowing and easily the most impressive part of the site. I have hundreds of photos I would love to share but won't be able to do, so I will make a post in the group chat whenever I can because 20 photos doesn't do it justice. 2000 photos wouldn't even do it justice.

      But finally, with exiting the Nasrid Palace, I had completed my big day of walking and travelling and, as such, headed to my hostel to sleep. I ended up extending as I still hadn't explored much of the historical centre, nor did I see the Granada Cathedral, which is supposed to be amazing. As such, I figured I'd give myself another day to chill a bit and finish off the final items of Granada.
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    Carmen de los Martires

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