Spain
Cirauqui

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    • Day 12

      The Road to Cirauqui

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Traditional multi bed hostels are a joy. Lights on at six, out the door by seven. It's still before sunrise although it's light enough to see and warm enough for a t-shirt. I headed off optimistic about my 15 km walk which was supposed to be an 'easy' day. I've stopped looking at the altitude and descriptions of the path ahead as I'm better off not knowing.

      After a couple of hundred metres I checked the gps to make sure I was on the right path heading out of town. I strolled along as the sun rose and saw two deer jumping and foxes playing. No one had passed me for a while so I got the gps out to double check and found myself 700m off the track. I swear there was absolutely no other path going off but clearly I was wrong. Being slightly stubborn I decided not to retrace my steps but to instead make my own path across the dry harvested fields to rejoin the track further on. While I have to admit that I wasn't sure my plan would work, I did strike it lucky and after crossing a few fields that were easier to walk on than any Camino trail so far, I came across a road that lead exactly where I needed to go.

      Today was full of gorgeous villages and towns, Obanos, Puenta la Reina, Manaru and tonight the hilltop walled Cirauqui. Of course each one was on a hill after a little valley and the Camino seems designed for a long slow wind up followed by a rapid descent.

      Despite my detour I arrived in Puenta la Reina at 10 in time for the shops to open. I had some different blister prevention options to get at the Farmacia and I needed a cap as my hat kept hitting my pack and annoying me. Train with your pack on they said!!

      I meet Nikki from Canada who was travelling with four friends and struggling to keep up with them. This has resulted in a sore knee that was of concern so she was trying to get in to see a physio and then catch a bus to meet up with her friends. We had a good chat about the pros and cons of doing the Camino in a group or alone.

      I caught up with a American mother and daughter team. Yesterday they had sent their bags forward to a hostel that wasn't even open and had figured this out at lunchtime with no idea where their packs had gone. They had walked to the next town to find their bags at the hostel there. Now, on day two, they have got the system sorted and were feeling much more confident.

      Tonight, in my walled city, my feet remain tired, my blisters annoying and I'm not exactly excited about the next 15 km. But this was always going to require some effort in the first few weeks and the delights of the landscape are ample compensation.
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    • Day 10

      Day 6 to Estella, we hit a wall.

      October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      We walked into Puente La Reina perhaps a tad cocky. Several days under our belt and we were pontificating on how we would walk every step of the Camino. We had a fancy dinner on the advice of some new friends, unfortunately just did not satisfy. The next morning we got a late start, we barely walked a kilometer and decided to stop for a full breakfast.

      The tables have turned, I’m starving, I literally can’t get enough to eat. On the other hand, Julie is not interested in eating. (Only Pringles) No almonds for me, I’m eating ham and cheese croissants and a delicious egg, onion and potato connection any time I can find them.

      After an hour long breakfast we finally headed out of town to begin our journey to Estella. We walked for a few kilometers, came upon an ancient Spanish village and we were immediately called out by some fellow pilgrims to join them for some coffee. An hour later, we realized we had made zero progress. It was almost noon and we had many kilometers to go.

      The rest of the afternoon was HOT, full of old Roman cobblestone roads, zero shade and we were struggling. We walked up a steep, steep dusty hill, found the first park bench, took off our packs and shoes, looked at each other and said… we’re done. After much debate, we decided not to walk the last 7 kilometers and we called a taxi.

      We cruised into Estella after a 15 km day to our amazing old town apartment. We passed other pilgrims and ducked down so they wouldn’t see us pulling into town in cab. We had a great dinner with a new friend and we ended the day early with no Penguin update.
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    • Day 14

      Day 7-Cirauqui

      September 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

      Today was a day of almosts. We left Uterga at sunrise when it was nice and cool out. We were supposed to walk 12 miles today but it was more like 14 miles. I had the bright idea to detour a couple of km to see a mysterious church called Santa María de Eunate. It's in a valley surrounded by farmland and nothing else. There's no record of its origin, only alot of supposition. We had to wait a half hour for the church to open (we were early, they were late).

      Because of this detour, we ended up having a steep ascent into Obanos and it was starting to heat up. We trudged along and stopped for patatas bravas in Puente la Reina. The stretch between there and Mañeru reminded me of the American River trails. The first almost occured on this stretch. The Vuelta a España (Spain's answer to the Tour de France) was coming through this area today. We saw two helicopters fly by really low so we knew the cyclists were going by at that moment. Twenty minutes later, we ascended to the road they just passed through.

      We arrived in Cirauqui, our final destination of the day, to the whole village finishing up a wine festival. They were all wearing a wine glass on a harness around their necks. It looked like a good time we almost had.

      The almosts really don't matter. I had a physically challenging, but fun day with my honey. And we have a great private room with our own bathroom and balcony.
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    • Day 7 - Urtega to Cirauqui - 15km

      September 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Today was a much easier day. One reason is I was more prepared, I forced myself to eat and drink and second, Christina walked with me all day. It was very nice getting to know her today. She is from Denmark and has a 3 month leave from work.

      Had breakfast, if you can call it that, A piece of bread with butter and jam and a small croissant, but I am not complaining, at least I put food in my mouth. I set off just after 7:30am and was already on the wrong path within 10 mins. Not far though, so when I got back on track, Christina was just ahead of me. We walked about the same pace (though not on the uphills, she was faster.)

      We were thinking of doing the Eunate option but we got to Obanos and realized we missed the turn off. We had a nice break in Puente la Reina, where I had a coke and tortilla. We sat at a table with a lady who had sprained her ankle who was taking a taxi for a few days and her friends are walking.

      We stopped again in Maneru and I wasn’t hungry but had a small sandwich. We sat for a good 45 minutes, relaxing. Only 2.6km left and got into the albergue around 2. I am in the same room that Jörg and I were in but not the same bed. There is a nice couple in the bunk beds that we had who fell in love on the camino 4 years ago. How wonderful is that?!

      Ok. A little less stressed today. I am just waiting for dinner and relaxing some more.

      TTYL

      Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal

      Today we started out by 7:15. Before we left, I listened to Desiderata with Joerg on the IPod.

      After the usual shower and washing of clothes, Joerg and I went for a little walk. At one point I told him to go on without me, I wanted to just find a quiet bench and write in my journal and read. So here I am. I was thinking a lot about this today. Joerg always walks ahead and I don’t really have the freedom to stop where I want. I sometimes stop and take a picture but if I wanted to stop for any length of time, I couldn’t because Joerg would be waiting. I am tempted to tell him that we should go separately and just agree to meet up at the next stop (i.e. where we are sleeping).

      The downside to this is that I do really enjoy his company and he takes care of me and I love that. I have never had someone do that for me before and I really like it. I have finally realized that I don’t need to always prove to myself and the world that I am strong and independent. I know it and so do most of the people who meet me. So why not enjoy having someone take care of me. One of the problems is that I love Joerg so much that it hurts. I know he cares very deeply for me and is showing me affection when he can (with hugs and smiles etc.) but I want more. I want a relationship. I want to kiss him, hold him and be with him.
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    • Day 11

      Day 8

      August 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Cirauqui to Villamayor de Monjardin - 23ks
      Left 6.45am arrived at 2pm
      As you can see, it was dark when we left Cirauqui the terrain was reasonably flat and so we made good time. With it being cooler, it certainly helps, and because we intended a longer hike, we had our bags transported. Again, we only had a sprinkle of rain. This made a huge difference to our speed of travelling. We saw fields of 🌻 but they were all dry and ready for harvesting.
      We had a lovely time in Estella, then we went to the wine fountain, yuck!!! I don't particularly like red wine. Villamayor de Monjardon is a pretty village set up on the hillside.
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    • Day 18

      Prendre le temps

      May 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      De marcher pas par pas malgré les difficultés que le chemin te présente, prendre le temps de s'arrêter de respirer, d'observer ce que la nature t'offre, la satisfaction d'enlever ton sac lorsque tu prends une pause, le goût d'un breuvage lorsque tu as soif, la nécessité de boire de l'eau, 4 km a l'heure et prendre le temps d'accepter la durée du périple de la journée, se souvenir que l'humilité et la résilience te voisine et prendre le temps de savourer, se rendre compte qu'on est bien petit devant le grandiose. La douleur physique ne devient que distraction et ne doit pas dominer l'inestimable.

      Les vrais valeurs humaines se dessinent lentement et deviennent les nouvelles priorités

      Buene camino
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    • Day 10

      Pamplona - Puenta La Reina & Cirauqui

      September 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Day 6 and 7 in Uterga and Cirauqui - This was a beautiful hike. First a significant ascent to Perdón Peak walking along gigantic windmills overhead and then stopping to take pictures of the monument of the Santiago Way which depicts a group of pilgrims from different periods crossing the line of windmills. Very iconic. After a very steep and rocky descent (that almost killed my knees) stayed last night in a cute Albergue in the town of Urtega.
      Left early this morning and had a much needed breakfast and coffee in Puenta La Reina. Admired the 13th century doorway of the Santiago church and crossed the Arga River over a beautiful Romanesque bridge to get to tonight’s Albergue in Cirauqui.
      Cirauqui is a beautiful medieval village perched on top of a mountain. The path to Cirauqui goes through recently harvested grain fields, vineyards and several fig trees growing along the side. The albergue overlooks the Romanesque church at the top of the hill - just one more final climb for the day!
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    • Day 9

      Olive Garden

      May 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      I was going to joke about something like where is pasta...but then we came upon this donation food stand
      I was OK (I been packing fruit and hard-boiled eggs for the last 2 days) but lots of folks were wholeheartedly thanking the senorita for being thereRead more

    • Day 7

      The Sacred and the Profane

      September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      The Way is always present and apparent if I just know where to look. And if I get lost it's ok to ask for directions, repent and return...
      We're all on the Way
      All ways converge into One

      I smell like a walking advertisement for the Spanish version of Tide. This from an avowed unscented laundry soap user at home. But I can't tell you what it means to have someone wash my clothes for me, that doesn't even happen at home! I'm willing to smell like laundry detergent rather than rancid sweat!Read more

    • Day 9

      To Estella

      September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      There was more to Puenta la Reina than we realized but had to make do with seeing it on our way out of town. MB and I enjoyed walking most of today's stage chatting with the aforementioned Nancy from L.A., and we continued to run into other familiar faces (like Patty and Sue from Canada). We were so chatty we missed a turn but a kind Italian pilgrim got our attention and redirected us.

      The day's walk went through fields and vineyards and was fairly gentle. Still, after 14+ miles to Estella--then another mile to our hotel--my feet were really aching and we were drenched from sweat and rain and bordering on hangry. As usual, by the time we cleaned up and sat down at the restaurant adjoining our hotel, the kitchen was closed, not to reopen till 8:30 pm!

      Two other pilgrims staying here were in the same boat so we teamed up with Gayle (Raleigh) and David (somewhere near Leeds) and taxied down to the bottom of town to eat at Bar Le Monde. All was fabulous till we learned there were no taxis to take us home. But hey--what's another mile uphill in sandals?

      One highlight: our hotel offered to do our laundry for us. One lowlight: the dryers here don't really do the job. So we've turned every corner of our room into a drying rack hoping we wont have to pack damp clothes in the morning.

      Estella is not quite as picturesque--larger and more modern. That + rain = fewer pics.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Cirauqui, 31131

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