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    • TravelerCamino Frances & Europe
      1
      1111
      Day 11–12

      Zariquiegui to Maneru

      September 10 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Ed’s longest day of waking today 18km. It was easy enough until after lunch when we had longish steep uphill with no shade in blasting sun. I think Ed was a bit dehydrated, he had a headache. Mañeru was incredibly historic. It seems most people live in beautiful old buildings. Our albergue had an incredible carved stone floor in the entrance way. There is a photo of Ed there, probably a bit hard to see. Even the little downmarket supermercado was in a historic stone building. We bought olives stuffed with anchovies in little serving size tins and ate with a tooth pick. Shared a lovely pilgrim meal with the other guests and drank local vino Tinto, ie red wine, as we are now in a wine region.Read more

    • TravelerCamino Frances & Europe
      Day 10–11

      Pamplona to Zariquiegui

      September 9 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      We had a short walk today maybe 12km. It was hot though with short climb into town. Tomorrow a bit more climb then steep down and apparently after that mostly flat for a good while. Ed is keen to ride a bike so I’ll look into hiring one. That will be good so we can cover a bit more distance each day. Ed fell asleep late afternoon for the evening so I went into Pamplona for dinner alone. I got to talking to a pilgrim in a bar and lined St my watch and it was 9:45. The door to albergue get locked at 10 so I jumped up& rushed home and got there with 2 minutes to spare almost suffering the same fate Ed had suffered the night before. The landscape is quite different now. Fields of sunflowers and haystacks, expansive and open with windfarms dotted about. We met a lovely couple from Melbourne. Unfortunately Steve has a lurgy he picked up on the plane so their Camino is not going the way they planned. It’s challenging for me to mould my walking to fit with Ed and be ok with that. I feel like I’m missing out on the people I meet that walk further and then I don’t see them again so hard to find my people. I’m working with my mind to be at peace with the Camino I’m on.Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      122112
      Day 32

      Puente la Reina to Cirauqui

      August 28 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

      Be careful what you pray for! Yesterday was hot as hades and my hikers rash, which was almost gone flared up painfully. Even with electrolytes, the wind blew so hot, water could make hot tea in munutes. Pilgrims were found huddling under underpasses for the shade.

      Today, it was thankfully cloudy. Then the thunder and lightening began. For more than 2 hours the ground shook. The red clay looked like blood leaking down the hill. Needless to say, it was a short day.

      I found a pharmacy and my hikers rash is improving. I need to keep my legs up and out of the sun. I thank everyone for the prayers ad they get me through days like these.

      I have found a wonderful hostel (paid a bit more) and have Real Sheets-not paper, shampoo in a clean shower and only 12 people in my room...none I can touch!!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      12
      Day 31

      I Found my Way Out of Pampalona

      August 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

      Pampalona has over 200,000 people in it. It is known for the running of the bulls every year and are very proud Hemmingway lived there. After walking in the quite mountains where I was entertained by bells on cows, horses, and goats, I found it very loud and busy. I got turned around several times trying to get out of the city. I felt like a cat trapped in a paper bag! I did find the post office and mailed 6.6 pound to the end of trail. A lighter Pack makes a diferentes! That took an hour and another hour to find an ATM machine. The next thing you know, its already 90 degrees!

      Of course, I found interesting neighborhoods, the university, and where they start the running of the bulls! I also found amazing gelato. So I did not get far walking today.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino 2023
      1
      2122
      Day 28

      Uterga to puente la reina

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      Different opinions on how far I walked today, let's say around 8 kms, mostly all down with a few small ups...got a bit lost in Ubanos, such a quiet village...with beautiful homes and some falling into disrepair. Again the scenery just fabulous and I noted the olive trees and how they've been pruned.

      What a beautiful environment to live in... Many people commute to work in the bigger cities. Shared bege gardens looking amazing coming into Puente la Reina township. I said hola to a group of Argentinian women architects who are enjoying the buildings and working out how to replicate or change some things.. we did some stretching exercises together which was fun took some photos and off we all went..

      The albergue here has a big kitchen but not well serviced, the stove tops taking forever to boil water for my spaghetti.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Frances
      3111
      Day 11

      Sierras del Perdon

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      If climbing the Pyrenees wasn't enough for one week, today I got to climb and descend the Alto de Perdon which was 756m high and is the highest point for the next 170km on the Camino. I hope that means I have at least ten days before I have to do that again.

      I left Pamplona just as the sun was rising and walked a nice flat, easy on the feet, 3km out through the parks and suburbs. After that we started to rise and in the distance you could see the wind turbines on top of the mountains over which we would slowly climb.

      Without my pack I made a much more respectable pace and covered 11 km over roughly three hours before reaching a cute village where I stopped for an early lunch and an 'airing of the feet'. The path was still rising and the windmills were getting closer. There was some climbing left yet, but only 6 km further to my hostel.

      I'd walked all morning with a bigger crowd passing me by than usual and few people I had met before as those starting out with me were now getting kilometres and days ahead. I said goodbye to Jody after enjoying some good chats over three nights together. She will be 10km ahead of me by the end of today.

      As Pamplona is a stop for the main stages of the Camino followed by many, lots of people headed out of Pamplona this morning but after my long lunch they had left me in the piece and quite again. The views all day were spectacular but my camera completely inadequate to capture them. For most of the day there were views of the mountains ahead, of numerous idyllic villages and farms, and the vista of Pamplona slowly retreating through the day.

      Those last 6 km to Uterga were a killer. 2 km up to the top, and two down, then a smooth if not flat road into town. The two kilometers down was torture. For some reason they drop tons of round river rocks on the path that make going down a treacherous, ankle breaking exercise you wouldn't subject your worst enemy to. I guess if an army decided to invade over the pass again you might slow them down?! So I hobbled once again into my accommodation. My bag had arrived and I now have my feet up waiting for my Pilgrim dinner at a typical Spanish old fashioned hostel - checkout the cobblestone floor in reception, I think I'm sleeping in what used to be the barn.      Read more

    • Julie RosenthalCamino Frances 2023
      131

      Day 6 - Trinidad de Arre to Urtega - 24k

      September 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      AM I FN CRAZY TO DO THIS?!!!

      I am in Urtega now. Just barely out of my shower and with very little energy to do much. I forced myself to wash my clothes because they stink! I did 24 km today with a start time of around 7:30am to a finish time around 5pm. A lot of mistakes were made today given it was a long day ... not enough water, not enough food and not enough sunscreen.

      I started the day strong, about .5km in, I ran into a couple ladies from my albergue. They were going for breakfast and told me I was going the wrong way. I thought it was right but I doubled back, and sure enough, I was right ... those B*&%^es added 1km to my day for nothing! :-)

      I was going a good pace at the start, in fact 4.5km per hour which is great given I have been averaging 3km per hour most days. It was straight city sidewalk walking so it was a wonderful break. I got into Pamplona at about 8:30 and stopped for a croissant with ham and cheese and a coke. I bought some sweet lemon treat to take with me. Pharmacies opened at 9 so I stopped in to grab some bandaids, throat lozenges , and voltarin.

      I then stopped at the pilgrims store and bought a few other necessities and then I was off. I still had my full bottle of water but hadn’t had any yet but figured I was fine. About 5 km outside of town in Cizur Menor I stopped and drank all the water and about half of my sweet treat and figured there was a fountain in town. I didn’t find one so I kept going.

      I was thinking of Jörg often. I found the spot where we stopped for our picnic lunch so reminisced a little but kept on moving (read more about it in the throwback at the end).

      Well, now I was getting tired and slow. No water and little food. I wasn’t hungry but I know I should eat for fuel. It wasn’t until another 5km that there was a little town that had a fountain. I drank a full bottle (700ml), then filled it again. I passed through town and they had food for sale but I wasn’t hungry so I decided not to stop. That was a mistake, again, even though I wasn’t hungry, I needed it for fuel.

      I was really slow going and it was all uphill now to the Alto del Perdón (790m high). Just before the top, I found the fountain were I had stopped before. It was a little overgrown now and I remember the picture clearly from 2009 with me looking exhausted ... I absolutely know why now, I had completely forgotten how difficult the climb was.

      I made it to the top and rested there for about 30 minutes. A tour bus stopped and people poured out to take pictures. I was sitting with a German lady (Cordelia I think) and we both joked that they must be excited to see real pilgrims and wonder how many took pictures of us.

      It was now 4pm, very very late to still be walking in the Spain heat. There is a reason they take an afternoon siesta, no one should be out here. I had 3.6km to go and it was downhill now, so decided it best to push off. The downhill was just as hard. It was all stones and I was needing to watch every step. About 1km outside of town, I stopped one more time in the shade and drank the last sip of water I had. It was uphill again into town but I made it.

      This is the most exhausted I have been, even more tired than the Pyrenees hike. I just didn’t have enough energy (food and water). I won’t make that mistake again.

      Dinner was good, lots of protein, egg, tuna, chicken. Time for sleep.

      TTYL

      Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal

      Today we awoke at 6am. I took my time as my back and ankle still hurt. We had breakfast which was bread, jam and cheese (I am sooooo sick of bread!!!!). We left around 7:45am. We arrived at Cirquar Minor in about an hour and half and my ankle was a little sore. We stopped for about 30 mins. I decided to go on (after we put more cream on my ankle).

      I was very surprised but my ankle was not so bad now and my energy was good. At one point, I was tired and Joerg looked at me and said “we stop here in this field for lunch.” He blew up his air mattress and when I sat down all tired and exhausted, I looked up and saw the famous ruins right there in our view. It was beautiful. It was exactly what I needed. I told Joerg that he was heaven sent (and then I had to explain what it meant). He truly is a blessing.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
      1123
      Day 4

      Day 1 done - and it didn’t kill me!

      September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      “Defeat is always momentary.” – Peter Jackson

      Day 1 - Pamplona to Uterga -17.5 km

      This quote is the story of my day. I honestly wasn’t sure if I was going to make it to Alto del Padron - where the iconic steel pilgrim statues are, and 14km from my albergue in Pamplona. There was an elevation gain of “only” 330 feet, but I was terrified I wouldn’t be able to make it. I did, but think I had suffered a bit of dehydration on the way. I rested and chatted to a lady named Sue from the US and when I went to stand and continue, I really didn’t feel well! Another 10mins, some water and beef jerky later, I was good to go. Made it to the top and had a little break to video chat with family.

      From there, it was 1.2km downhill on rather dodgy loose rocks which really stresses the joints. A further 2km brought me to Urtega. I had not planned to stop here, but the albergues for the next two towns were full. I ended up getting the last room available, which I am sharing with two young German women - both young enough to be my daughters.

      Daily routine has started of quick shower to wash the trail dust off, hand wash laundry and chill out!! Lovely dinner at the albergue and an early night for this pilgrim! Tomorrow is a new day and it’s mostly downhill - so hopefully a bit easier than today!      Read more

    • Camino de Santiago (Frances)
      11111
      Day 13

      Day 6-Uterga

      September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

      I was a little sad to leave Pamplona and the great time we had there. I could easily spend a month or two just "living" there. The Camino took us past the University of Navarra so we detoured to the general office to collect a stamp. For those who don't know much about the Camino de Santiago, we collect ink stamps in a booklet to present to the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago. If we fulfilled certain requirements, we are issued a Compostela which documents our pilgrimage. We can get stamps at our lodging, restaurants, churches, etc.

      Our 12 mile journey today included gentle ascents to the Alto de Perdon peak which is covered in wind turbines and a Pilgrim monument. The decent into Uterga was steep and covered in loose rocks but we made to our lodging in good shape.

      After two nights at a nice hotel in Pamplona, tonight's accommodation leaves alot to be desired. We reserved a private room, but there is a room behind ours and that couple has to pass through our room to get out. They are very nice so I don't think there will be any issues. The place smells a little off, like mold and Raid.

      We happened to meet a fellow Sacramento pilgrim couple on the way today. Paloma and Enrique are pretty much on the same schedule we are. There are a few others here that we've shared dinner with over the last week.

      After my hair product fiasco, we bought some conditioner this morning. I figured I'd use our Dr. Bronner's bar soap for my hair and the conditioner would make me somewhat presentable. Luckily, someone abandoned shampoo in the shower so now I feel like a million $$$.

      If you've noticed I'm always wearing the same clothes in the pics, it's because I only have two sets of clothes, one I'm wearing, and one I change into after my afternoon shower. Then I wash the dirty set and hope it will dry by the next day.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
      12
      Day 5

      Day 2 - A long slow slog

      September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      “After a day’s walk, everything has twice its usual value.” – George Macauley Trevelyan

      Day 2 - Uterga to Villatuerta -15.5km + 10km

      Ok - I am day late posting. Don’t judge. A lack of electrical outlets at my Albergue was the culprit.

      Saturday dawned cool but beautiful. I even got a quick chat in on What’s Ap with one of my daughters who was still awake at 1:40am! I was meeting someone in Puenta La Reina at 9:30 so I gave myself plenty of time. Despite apps and maps, you ever know exactly what’s ahead!

      Sabrina and Paula (the German girls that I bunked with) passed me and I them, a couple of times but we walked into Puenta La Reina at 9 am. They had a rest while I walked through town and found a cute little bar (bar =cafe here) for a tea and pintoxs of toast with tomato paste, olive oil and prosciutto. Marie showed up at 9:30 and gave me back my backpack that she had borrowed. And I made my first big Camino mistake. We hung out and chatted while she ate, and started off again at 11:00. Not smart at all!!! 11:00 and baking hot. About 1.5km from town, a nasty long and reasonably steep hill awaited. I was dying. Stopping every 20-30 steps and in total misery. Eating tiny blackberries that grew beside the trail and amongst the fennel, to cheer myself upI seriously thought that due to the last start from Puenta La Reina, that I’d be the last person on this part of the Camino. I was wrong of course. But at least there were less than 5 people that passed me on this stretch and witnessed my frustration and tears.

      I finally made it to Muñez which was the next town. Had a rest at the town fountain and refilled my water, soaked my hat and put it on. It was probably about 1:30 at this time. It had taken me ages to get up that hill. Decided that since Marie had told me the girl in her room had woken up with bites all over herself, and Marie was coming up with spots while we had breakfast, that I should make sure I had no hitchhikers on my small backpack. Probably too late if there were, as I had tossed it in my backpack on top of my only long sleeved wool shirt, which I had taken off just before she arrived. Anyway, no bugs present so I was relieved. Got up to carry on and my foot pain was incredible in my right foot. I’ve had this before (neglected to get it checked before I left) and it bothers me most after resting. Once I am able to get moving, it’s pretty much ok. But those first 20 steps…oh boy!

      I got moving and took it slowly. Before I got out of town, I caught up with a lady named Karen from the States and we walked to the next town together, admiring the fig trees, olive groves and vineyards. We may have had a quick snack of grapes along the way :-). We arrived at Ciraqui to the sounds of music and all the people in town walking around in white (some in red) with red bandanas. It’s Festival time - for over a week! Oh it was so lovely. Decided I wanted to stay here and I knew Paula and Sabrina were too, but not which Albergue they were at. I made my way to an Albergue and found they had space but that it would be noisy. Hhhmmm. I really needed sleep, and because I had been sitting down, my foot was killing me again. I decided to take a taxi to the next town, but it would be a two hour wait. As I was on the phone, the girls came out of the hostel. Now I was In a quandary. They were encouraging me to stay but I wanted to get to the next town and get some sleep. The deciding factor came when I saw Marie’s bunkmate from the night before go into the Albergue. If she was staying there, I wasn’t. Again, didn’t want hitchhikers (the bed bug kind). I called an Albergue in Villatuerta and they felt bad that I would have to wait for 2 hrs for a taxi - so the owner came and gave me a lift! The Camino provides.

      I got settled into the new Albergue and went to a bar for a tea. Ended up staying there the rest of the day chatting with people and had dinner with two older guys from the US named Bill and Rip. Lovely evening.

      Early night - and yes- I finally got some sleep!!      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Cizur, Cendea de Cizur, Zendea de Zizur, Zizur Zendea, Zizur, Сисур, Сісур

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