Spain
Cobreros

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    • Day 8

      Day 44 - Requejo - 12.7 km

      November 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

      Weather: 2 - 14 degrees. Yesterday said rain - today maybe not.
      Clothes: short and long sleeve merino top, fleece and rain jacket, trekking pants.

      The walk.
      I left my hotel to a misty foggy morning- droplets of water that could perhaps be called rain only a couple of times.
      There have been a number of warnings that the Camino trail could be flooded in certain sections here during rainy seasons. However given it wasn’t actually raining when I left at 9 am I thought I would see how I felt when I got to the first turn off.
      Well it seemed fine so off I went along the river. And it was exquisite. There were a couple of water hurdles but someone had kindly made some small bridges and the only time I got my feet wet was when I thought the second bridge looked a little unsteady and I tried to walk through the meadow. Turns out it was a water meadow so with slightly wet feet I headed back to the bridge which turned out to be rock solid.
      Walking along the river was a such delight I didn’t at all mind the slightly wet feet.
      I also began to understand that this section might have been difficult and even frightening for someone else. - thinking of my German friend Peter, who has had 5 operations in 4 years.
      Again I was grateful for my early life in the country; camping, walking through the bush and enjoying the challenges this can bring.
      After the first river section I followed the arrows and walked along the road where I was partnered by a rainbow for the next hour or more. 🌈🌈🌈. How can I doubt that I am loved and protected?
      I missed the next river section as the causeway just off the road was flooded and a man came to shout me away - he was really looking for his cow but he also seemed to indicate that I should stay on the road
      The next choice was to either continue along the road or try the longer ‘scenic’ route. I took the scenic route and as it initially went up hill, seemed safe from flooding.
      I was so happy I did that. It was a fairy land of tracks and trails and trees and leaves and light and sparkling streams and small meadows and cows and bliss -perhaps the most beautiful section since Sevilla. ❤️❤️❤️. One guide said it was picturesque- an understatement.
      I arrived at Requejo at 12.30 pm - no time at all - stopped at the Bar for a refresh before I went to find my albergue.
      On the way there I met a young French man - he said his name was Rocket. He was travelling to Porto - hitchhiking and walking. It was comforting for us both to have a conversation- his English was great - and to wish each other well in our various adventures.
      After the usual albergue routine I headed for the local hotel/ restaurant to eat. Although the town seems deserted the restaurant was buzzing - with tables having second and even third seatings.
      So that’s it for today. Till tomorrow.

      Buen Camino

      Reflections on the mind …
      At various times in the night and early morning the mind fretted about rain and coffee. Will it rain and do they serve real coffee for breakfast in the hotel (there are no Bars nearby). Thank goodness through mindful practice I was able to turn away from these thoughts and have a good nights sleep.
      And guess what - no rain, just fog: and plenty of real coffee for breakfast. 😂🤣😂🤣😂
      Today I realised that the mind has been doing an awful lot of worrying over this Camino - as I have shared in previous posts - more so than on previous Caminos . Over and over again everything turns out OK.
      I also thought it might be that there is so much more fear energy in the world these days. From all the people wanting to walk a Camino but sharing on various forums how scared they are - to Peter yesterday taking about flood and snow as we head over the mountains.
      And here I am, the sun is shining, I am well fed, I have warm bed and clean clothes. And I am safe.
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    • Day 5

      Puebla Sanabria to Requejo

      April 14 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

      First walking day; warm weather, very green, hopping stones across creeks, mountains with snow in the distance. Olivia has great stamina and has become a very good navigator.

      We did not see a single other pilgrim walking, but there are about 10 in the albergue in Requejo, ,all having walked a longer distance today. They are all walking Via de La Plata, a camino that starts way down south in Sevilla, 995 km/over 600 miles from Sevilla to Santiago. The ones I have talked to so far are from Germany, Korea, Denmark and Romania.

      While walking, we came upon a church in a meadow, built probably in medieval times. There were steps so we climbed up and came to very large bells which we rang. On the front of the church you can see a carved scallop shell, a symbol of the pilgrimage. Saw our first stork on a nest. Those 2 guys on the veranda are NOT from Tucumcari, NM. They are rural Spaniards up here doing some deer huntin'.
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    • Day 10

      Tag 10 geht dem Ende zu

      September 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Wir sind wieder in Spanien nachdem wir ein Paar Aufgaben in Portugal erledigt haben. Unsere Unterkunft erinnert ein wenig an die Titty Twister Bar.
      Naja. Hier ein paar Impressionen von unserem heutigen Tag.Read more

    • Day 7

      Puebla de Sanabria - Medieval Old Town

      November 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      I think this historic town deserves a page to itself. Especially as all the signs are in Spanish and English.
      The town was taken over in 1451 by the Fourth Count of Benavente and his wife, Countess Maria de Pacheco.
      They built the castle and Countess Maria ‘concluded that together they built the town’ - which they probably did in the sense that I imagine it might have been a rather ‘insignificant’ village before the Count and Countess came and put their mark on it.
      This region is situated quite close to Portugal so the Count and Countess had to be prepared to defend their territory.
      As I was exploring the castle and surrounds I came across (dare I say) a ‘trendy’ Bar/Cafe. Of course I stopped. I’ve been ‘roughing’ it for quite a a while now. So I got a vino and wedges with sauce and sour cream. I must say the wine was excellent and the wedges were perfect.
      This medieval town is exquisite. It’s like a huge outdoor museum. As well as the castle, walls and defence structures (like the watch tower) there is a large church and a smaller chapel. The surrounding buildings have been well restored and the work is ongoing. All the important buildings are named and explained.
      I always wonder who actually lives in these places now. Are they for some sort of elite or are some of the old time residents still around.
      My wander around the narrow and twisting streets has been one of the highlights of this Camino - partly because it was unexpected and partly because the old town felt really accessible.
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    • Puebla de Sanabria

      April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

      Brooks rented a car and drove us up here, where we start our walk from tomorrow morning. I am surprised at how hot it is - this part of Spain is often cold and rainy.

      It is a beautiful little village with narrow streets between stone buildings, a castle on top of the hill, and a lake down below. Lots of Spanish tourists here now. I had booked a room for us ahead of time in a small hotel and a sign on the door said it opened for check-in at 3, but was still locked up tight after that. So I called the number on the door and the lady gave me the code to get in, our room number and said the key would be in the room door. It was, and it appears we are the only guests staying here. So we have the run of the place including the cafe which doesnt open until breakfast tomorrow. Booze in there and everything, so strange (will add more town pics soon)Read more

    • Day 33

      Asturianos - Requejo de Sanabria 30 km

      June 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

      I got up wishing I had been in the other room with Meg, Kathleen, Anne and Mirjam. I was in a room with 6 other people, 5 of who were serious snorers, earplugs were no help.

      The walk to Requejo was quite tedious, the weather was very changeable, sunshine and drizzle and a dampness in the air, and it has generally been cooler and damper the further north we have come. The camino path today was very varied, it went through a lot of damp, soggy, wooded farmland, and country roads and a fair bit on the tarmac as well. Part of the path just outside Asturianos was flooded and muddy but not enough to require a detour, there were a couple of steepish hills to go up as well and a quite steep one downhill on the way out of Asturianos.

      Puebla de Sanabria looked like a nice historic town but I didn't have time to be a tourist, I had hoped to get a coffee but I couldn't find a café or bar that was open despite the fact that it was after 0900. I did find a supermarket that was open so I went in and treated myself to some sugary snacks, and then carried on. I made good time for the first 20 km, but I found the last 9 km more difficult, and a bit slower. Just outside Requejo I noted that the GPS trace of the camino path seemed to be quite a bit longer than going directly on the road, so I chose the road. Although I don't like walking on the tarmac it is quicker, and I could tell from the map that the camino route involved some hill climbing. It was a good choice, for when I messaged back to Meg and the others it seemed they were finding it hard going.

      I eventually arrived in the town and looked for a café which I found easy enough and I got a coffee from a morose girl behind the counter, the coffee was a lot better than her demeanour. The guidebook described the municipal albergue as 'basic' which put us all off, so we planned go to a private albergue Casa Cerviño, so I headed there. I just arrived and stepped in the door when the heavens opened in a torrential and long lasting downpour of rain. As Musashi says, timing is everything.

      I was the first to arrive, so I messaged the others to tell them that the albergue was really good. It was spacious, very clean, had good toilets and showers, and a washing machine and tumble dryer. The bar/restaurant was right next door as well (the food was very good). I hadn't been there long when I had the most wonderful surprise, for the next person to arrive in the albergue was Anita! Having gone all the way to Santiago de Compostela for some physio she was back on the camino. She is an inspiring woman, and as tough and resilient as her homeland.

      All the others eventually arrived wet and tired, and glad for a shower and change of clothes.

      When the rain went off Mirjam, Anne and I went out to look for provisions for the next day. Requejo de Sanabria is one of the least resourced towns we have stayed in thus far, we were not able to get any provisions other than a few Magdalena cakes from the bar with the morose barmaid. However, the evening was full of chat and the warmth of friendship shared, even with the rain, these are the days that you want to last forever.
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    • Day 68

      Wir haben nochmal in Portugal eingekauft und sind dann über die Autobahn nach Spanien. Pass bis ca 1200m.
      A 52 bei Puebla der Sanabria einen kleinen Camping mit alter Mühle am See gefunden. Wir sind wohl die einzigen Gäste und wurden freundlich empfangen.Read more

    • Day 45

      Noch mehr Berge

      May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Heute ging es bis auf 1300m hoch, insgesamt 1700 Höhenmeter waren auf 90km zu überwinden. Aber meine Beine scheinen doch langsam etwas trainierter zu sein, es ging ganz gut. Dazu beigetragen hat die Bundesstraße auf der ich den ganzen Tag unterwegs war und vielleicht insgesamt 100 Autos begegnet bin. Kein Wunder, auch die parallel verlaufende Autobahn war sehr leer.
      Und das Wetter hat bis zur Ankunft gehalten, war sogar teilweise schön sonnig.
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    • Day 44

      Asturianos - Requejo 23.6.2018

      June 23, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Heute stand Wohlfühlprogramm für die Gräten auf dem Programm. Aus gutem Grund, wenn ich an die beiden kommenden Tage denke 😎 deshalb wurde heute für gute 5 Stunden Landstraßenasphalt getreten 😁 ist für viele die Höchststrafe, und zu denen zählte ich bis vor kurzem auch. Aber das hat sich gründlich gewandelt.

      So ging es heute morgen aus dem Ort press auf die Landstraße, um gute 3 km weiter in Palacios de Sanabria direkt die erste Bar anzusteuern. Dort ließ ich es mir erstmal mit einem Bocadillo, einer Cola auf Eis und einem Cafe Americano in der Vormittagssonne gutgehen. Dann wieder auf die Piste und gut 10 km weiter in Puebla de Sanabria die Mittagspause, diesmal nur mit einer Cola auf Eis. Dafür aber mit viel Zeit. Abschliessend standen nochmal gut 10 km Asphalt nach Requejo an, diese dann unter der Obhut meines Sonnenschirms, da die 30 Grad locker überschritten wurden. Wolken - Fehlanzeige 😁 Unterwegs passierte nicht viel, aber zu drei Fotos bin ich immerhin doch gekommen.

      Ja, morgen und übermorgen ist wieder Bergziegen-Alarm. Allerdings in verschärfter Form. Eine Pass-Überquerung steht an, es geht also richtig in die Berge. Hinzu kommt, dass beide Etappen ausgewachsene 30er sind, morgen 31 km und übermorgen 33 km. Und weiter hinzu kommt, dass die Temperaturen an beiden Tagen auch wieder deutlich über 30 Grad liegen werden 😎 Ich mache mich also auf viiiel Spaß gefasst 😁 insofern war heute etwas Durchschnaufen Trumpf.

      Heute Abend kicken Jogis Asse gegen Schweden, mal schauen, ob ich das noch erleben oder schon gleichmäßig atmend in der Horizontalen sein werde.

      Beim Weg zum Abendessen bot sich noch ein schöner Blick auf die Berge, die es morgen zu überqueren gilt. Sind schöne Brocken 😁 Fotos anbei.

      Stand heute: 968 km 🚶🍀
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    • Day 10

      10. Tag der Six Bridges Rally

      September 20, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      10. Tag der Rallye bedeutet Abschied nehmen von dem wohl eindrucksvollsten Ort der Tour. Mensch, Porto bist du klasse, kann man da nur sagen, in Anlehnung an den Slogan von Solingen. 🥰🤩
      Euch alle wollenn wir mit den Bildern von der Ponte Dom Louis I und Ponte Maria Pia an unseren Erlebnissen teilhaben lassen.
      Nach einer kleinen Zwischenstation in Guimarães (Unesco Welterbe), dort steht ein Castell in dem der erste König Portugals geboren sein soll, sind wir nun schon weit in Spanien. Ziel für heute ist die spanische Stadt Leon.
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