Spain
Esteribar

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    • Day 9

      Day 5: Larrasoaña to Pamplona

      May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

      Mileage: 10.25
      Elevation gain: 833
      Elevation loss: 1,007
      Weather: beautiful! Partly sunny with a cool breeze
      Total mileage: 44.5

      More beautiful weather and scenery. This won’t always be true, so I am savoring it while I can. I was awake before the roosters (and the snorers in my dormitory!) so I was ready to hit to hit the road at 7 this morning. I didn’t *need* to leave so early, but it was cool and crisp with lovely early morning light, so I was happy to be out. I stopped for cafe con leche and Spanish tortilla for breakfast a few miles in.

      Much less climbing and downhill today, although there was still some! The walk along the wheat field was one of my favorite sections so far. Some of the Pamplona portion wasn’t very pretty, but it’s all still very interesting. I’m in a hotel tonight with a day off tomorrow; both of those things feel odd at this point but very welcome. I was as happy to see the bathtub as I’ve ever been to see an inanimate object. I’m going in search of tapas tonight!

      1. Beautiful light this morning.
      2. I don’t get tired of this kind of trail.
      3. Hilly but pretty
      4. Lots of poppies and wheat today. I loved both but the combination!!
      5. Looking over the Arga valley
      6. Not sure if this was a farmhouse or a church
      7. Lots of this yellow bush today. I don’t think it’s forsythia? Maybe gorse? Smells nice and cheered me on up this hill.
      8. The medieval (!) bridge that took me into Pamplona
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    • Day 6–7

      Zabaldika - Albergue Parroquial

      April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      We happened upon this wonderful alberge in Zabaldika, which is attached to a small church run by the sisters of the sacred heart. It is a ‘donativo’ alberge, which means that rather than a set fee, you donate what you can to help cover the food for the next night of Pilgrim travelers. It was a truly incredible & moving experience for the both of us, from the community dinner with pilgrims from Slovenia, Korea, Spain, France, Hungary, Netherlands and Florida, to the service where we all shared our reasons for hiking the Camino, followed by the singing of the pilgrim song “Ultreia”, which losely translates to ‘move forward with courage.’ ❤️🙏🏼Read more

    • Day 6

      Zubiri to Pamplona - part one

      March 28 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      What an absolute Great Day. Folk pop usually makes me either really happy or really sad but the gamble with Noah Khan's Stick Season album paid off today and I was swinging my arms and tilting my head like Winnie the Pooh down the path. At one stage, without anything chasing me, I actually ran up a hill. Can you imagine.

      Gear MVP continues to be the hanky I stole off Dad, it occupies prime strap real estate and is summoned into service often. I'm actually starting to think I must sweat through my nose, I'm a drippy gal. If I was a dog, with my wet nose and bright eyes, I'd be adopted quick smart.

      Cats seen 1, cats pet 0, to be fair though I saw an information board about the amount of birds of prey in this area so I reckon they're just being stealthy. Luca caught up with me after a while, I heard him on the phone before I saw him, apparently someone was sending him a patient and he was trying quite hard to explain he was actually in a Spanish field at the moment and perhaps another doc could do it?

      Popping out of a hemmed in section, we encountered the cops parked rakishly across the path, stood looking serious in their surely over-engineered outfits. We all got sheepish for some reason and wandered over, assuming it was a passport check or a quiz about Jesus to confirm we were the real deal. Turns out, and bless their HEARTS, they were there to hand out cards with special pilgrim help numbers and insist we call them if we run into any trouble. I mean ACAB but it was sweet, good on em.

      Across the bridge from that, there was a cafe and we recognised a bunch of pilgrims in it and thought it was a good idea. In for a coffee by the fire, Nicole, Rusty, Marrick (Mr 4.5kg) and a few others turning up while we were there. We all discussed where we'd be staying in Pamplona, and I let them know I'd be staying two nights. I'm genuinely enjoying the easy company of this group, and am upset to move out of sync and potentially never see them again.

      On the flip side, I've known them for less than three days, and the part of me that gets too attached too quickly is one I'm working on out here. So, in an act of pulling my emotional big girl pants on, I think the fact I'm uncomfortable with moving out of step with them is the exact reason I need to do it.

      Oh ps the SUN CAME OUT.
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    • Day 7

      Villava, just outside of Pamplona

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      A nice walk down the Rio Arga valley this afternoon, mostly no rain. We walked without raincoats until the sprinkles got heavy. Then as soon as we put on raincoats, the rain stopped and the sun would peak out.

      We had one last steep hill climb before descending to Villava, a suburb of Pamplona. We met a tiny French woman from Paris climbing the hill. She is 80 years old carrying her stuff in a reusable shopping bag and one hiking stick. She and her friend are walking to Logrono, at least a week away.

      We arrived at Pension Obel, which is right above Bar Obel!

      Two beers are being consumed, then a trip to the laundromat around the corner.
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    • Day 7

      Lintzoian to Larrasoana

      May 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      A brisk uphill walk at 7:30 am then some treacherous downhill into Zubiri. We met up with our Camgos at breakfast in Zubiri then walked some more into the small town of Larrasoana. Steve and Helene moved onto Pamplona and we waited by a cool stream for the inn and the supermercado to open.Read more

    • Day 4

      Early morning start

      August 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Again woke up at 3.30 am and couldn’t get back to sleep! Not sure why but my head is spinning with new thoughts! Our newly formed family decided to go to Pamplona together, which will be a short trip but It will be worth it! We have French, Italian, German and a new „adopted“ child from Spain in our little part time family! Breakfast was very light and basic! It is still dark outside but we want to escape the heat!Read more

    • Day 5

      Day 2- Roncevalles to Larrasona

      September 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

      So today according to the guide books was to be one of the tougher days but CJ and I both agree , much more reasonable than yesterday. We traveled from Roncevalles to the quaint little town of Larrasona. According to my Fitbit we walked 20 miles but the maps would tell you 17 so I guess the extra is when we walk around the towns and such. for the record it was a 45,200 step day.It is actually more than that but MY FITBIT DIED! Now is not the time for it to bomb on me but alas it did. Good news is tomorrow we will pass through a larger town, Pamplona and as luck would have it there are several stores there that sell them.
      This was a much more traditional walk as we left a bit before sun up and walked to the next town about 2 miles or so and had breakfast. Wonderful coffee baguette sandwiches and croissants. Gives us the much need caffeine and carbs to get going. We then traveled to the next town and visited a local market and picked up the food for the rest of the day. CJ is really good at hydration and food intake. He is constantly reminding me to drink and instead of a lunch we have 2 breaks on the trail where we snack . It works very well to keep us fueled throughout the walk.
      Today we were more in the sun than yesterday and it was a bit warmer but still great walking weather. We did stop for a coffee midday and reconnected with Roy our 75 year old Brit that we met yesterday. This is his second Camino and as he says he is a bit slower but he gets it done! We also met 2 men from Australia who watched the movie The Way and decided to do the walk. They also have their eye on the AT so Cj had some fun filling them in on how that compares to this.
      Everyone says how social the pilgrims are during this pilgrimage. So far it seems that everyone is social at cafes and albergue’s but on the trail it is heads down walking with the occasional grunt:).
      We are staying at what’s called a Pension tonight…not sure how they got the name pension but they do have a dinner tonight with and it looks like about 8 pilgrims are attending so will be fun meeting some new people.
      Lastly when you walk you have a lot of time to think and ponder things. Today my thoughts where on material needs and/ versus material wants. So for the last several days all I “need “is in my backpack ….and I haven’t really wanted for anything else except for that new Fitbit:) … I will continue to ponder this but I have wanted and acquired so many things throughout my life yet here I am with all I “need” on my back … and loving it!
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    • Day 15

      Day 15 Roncesvalles to Larrasoana, 27 km

      October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Mostly photos again tonight.

      A good day’s walking, mostly ‘tranquille’ but with a tricky steep 4km descent into Zubiri on loose rocks, which my right knee is not happy about. 🥺

      Excellent Albergue Saint Nicolas- United Nations of pilgrims at dinner tonight - Italian, Austrian, American, South Korean, Spanish and, of course, me and The French.

      Tomorrow, a short walk to Pamplona. 😎
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    • Day 3

      Espinal

      July 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      This morning I left Burguete with an empty stomach. The albergue was busy with a large group, and if I wanted breakfast there they could only serve me at 9 am, which was too late for me.

      So, I went on my way thinking I would buy something at the bakery nearby, or in the next town, only 4k up. The bakery was closed at 7:30, but I wasn't desperate and walked on to Espinal.

      I was getting quite hungry when I got there, and I was seeing more pretty houses, but no shops. Then, a promising sign read 'cafe open 24h', with an arrow pointing right. It was the direction I had to go anyway and was really looking forward to a nice cafe with home made goodies. Big disappointment after I turned that corner and saw that the 'cafe' was... a vending machine!!

      There were a bunch of Italians eating and drinking next to the machines. I asked if that was the only cafe in town, and they said it was. I had some coins, and got a hot chocolate and a piece of lemon sponge. Better than nothing 🤷🏻‍♀️

      Then I kept on walking, and 200m ahead there was a real cafe! 😣 Too late, I had enough to keep going, and that's what I did.
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    • Day 6

      Walking with cows and gates and lessons

      August 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

      Lessons I learnt today:
      Listen to your body- your mind does not know better!
      Stop for proper breaks and eat more than fruit
      You do not to need to walk to somewhere just cos you booked.

      Having said all that the majority of the walk was just outstanding. I had no idea of the beauty here. Love the sound of the cow bells. Shorter day tomorrow 30km in 34 not the smartest thing!Read more

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