Spain
Forcarei

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    • Day 24

      Feas to Soutelo de Montes (21 km)

      October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Another pretty short day with a fair amount of elevation (750 m by my GPS). Just a few small villages with most of the kms in pine forests or those Galician green tunnels with stone walls on either side. I’ve walked in countryside like this many times on this camino and others, but there are always breath-catching moments —like looking back down over Feas as the sun rose, or being in a green tunnel as bright sun dappled through.

      The only town on this stage is Beariz, where many pilgrims stay. Since it was only nine or 10 km from my starting point, I wanted to keep going. As I passed by the municipal building, I saw that the door was open. That was unusual for a Saturday, but I stuck my head in and said —hola? Turns out the mayor was in, catching up on work and being available to citizens who couldn’t come during the week. He was very happy to stamp my credential and to explain how important the Camino could be for his town. He has been mayor for 39 years, which is probably a record of some sort. He insisted on giving me a cultural review from the town, which I have carried with me and will look at this afternoon. But I don’t think it will come any further, because it weighs at least a pound.

      I am in a well-positioned but not very inspiring town for the night. There is a small hostel which is clean and right on the route.

      Three more days walking to Santiago. If the stars at home align right, I will continue to the ocean. But I am nothing if not flexible, and I may be home sooner.
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    • Day 82

      Bike logistics

      November 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      I am in Santiago de Compostela.
      The next destination of my journey is supposed to be Madrid, where my cousin lives with her family.
      To get there I would have to drive right into the heart of Spain: over the hilly Sierra de Léon, then hundreds of kilometres through relatively flat, presumably steppe country and finally over the Sierra de Guadarrama, whose mountain peaks are up to 2 430m high.
      Since my further travel plan then takes me from north to south through Portugal, I would have to drive almost the same distance back again after the visit. 😮‍💨
      There are the following alternatives:
      a) Take the bike on the train or bus
      b) Store the bike safely and travel on to Madrid on my own.

      I would prefer to have everything with me., but soon it turns out that this is not easy:
      - Busses only transport bikes with the front wheel removed. 😕
      - Regional trains with bike transport only run from Ourense, about 80km away. ☹️
      - High-speed trains transport bikes packed in a cardboard box but my expedition bike will never ever fit into the allowed shoe boxes. 😖

      So removing the front wheel is the least of the evils. As luck would have it, I also lose my special front wheel dismounting tool on this very day.
      Now I can't remove my front wheel and a flat tire will paralyse my journey until I have organised a replacement for the special tool.
      Bravo, Til! Great job! 👏 🥳

      In the end, all I can hope for is to get to Ourense without a breakdown and to catch a regional train there that will accept my bike - as it is - and take it to Madrid. 🤞
      So off to Ourense!

      Once I am there I find out that bicycles are not transported on trains from here. Except in the direction of Santiago, I could happily go there! 🤪
      I need another solution.

      The easiest thing to do now would be to store my bike safely and continue traveling alone, because right now the bike is just a millstone on my leg. And although it's a bit strange at first to leave my most important item to strangers, that's exactly what I'll do.
      The very first hostel where I present my plan supports me and takes care of the bike for a whole week. After so many difficulties, I hadn't imagined it would be so easy.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Forcarei, فوركاري, Forcarey, فرکاری, フォルカレイ, Форкарей, 福尔卡雷

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