Spain
Hontanas

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    • Meseta

      September 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

      It was a rather quiet day walking. We had 20 km and not a huge climb. We had rain in the forecast, but other than a sprinkle, we stayed dry!

      Along the Camino are “Bars”, I would equate the “Bars” to a snack bar that serves food, coffee, tea, and alcohol (mostly beer and wine). Some Bars you want to pass by, others you sit back from walking, visit with other pilgrims, air out your feet, and enjoy a café con leche! Today, several of us traveled together and found an Oasis (well that’s what they called it 😉). But it served good coffee, and food and had a clean bathroom! Yay, score!

      Tomorrow I head to Fromista. We have a 3 km climb and about 25 km total walk with very few Bars or water fountains to fill our water containers. So I will load up the water I need for the long day! We have a bed tomorrow (in an Albergue), and for the next several nights we are still looking for places to stay. Mimi, Jo, and I are meeting up every afternoon. We all walk at different paces. It is nice to walk with random pilgrims on the road, but meet up for the afternoon and night with great familiar faces! Yesterday and today I walked with two very nice gentlemen, one retired Marine from Virginia, and one nice guy from Ireland. Jo started with us, but wanted to go at her own pace!

      Random thought: I miss ordering from Amazon and getting it the next day! 😬
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    • Day 26

      Castrojeriz

      September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Piękne miasteczko, długie, wijące się generalnie pod górę i przepełnione średniowieczem, wąskie uliczki, południowa pustka, koty wygrzewające się w okiennicach, nie prowadzących do nikąd oprócz niebieskiego nieba i pustki po nie istniejących domach. Dotarliśmy do albergue Rosalia, spaliśmy tu w zeszłym roku i bardzo nam się podobała. Na rogu budynku w fasadzie jest wykuty sznur, oznaka, że kiedyś zatrzymali się tutaj członkowie królewskiej rodziny. Wiem, że się powtarzam, ale to robi wrażenie, że śpimy w miejscu, w którym kiedyś przebywali władcy Hiszpanii....
      Około 4 km przed naszym docelowym miejscem przechodzi się przez ruiny kościoła, który był zbudowany w kształcie litery T. Pozostały jedynie ruiny, ale robią niesamowite wrażenie, jeśli się pozwoli rozwinąć fantazji można zobaczyć cudne obrazy. Nie ukrywam, że jest to jedno z moich ulubionych miejsc. Do tego należy dodać, że był on pod wezwaniem Sw. Antoniego Pustelnika. Specjalizował się on dość skutecznie w leczeniu choroby zwanej gorączka Antoniego a polegała ona na halucynacjach, szale, bólach nóg i odpadaniu części ciała. Powodował ja sporysz powszechnie obecny na tamtejszych nie oczyszczonych zbożach. Leczenie było w miarę skuteczne i polegało na długim chodzeniu i piciu dużych ilość czerwonego wina. Choroba ta miała generalnie dwie formy, jedna właśnie gorączka świętego Antoniego z bólem kończyn i odpadającymi kończynami i druga polegająca na szale, halucynacjach i padaczce jak słusznie Mariuszek zauważył tańcem Sw. Vita. Sw. Vit jest 7 albo 12 letnim chłopcem męczennikiem który został ugotowany w oleju.
      Wiem, że to powtórka, ale bardzo interesująca i warta utrwalenia.
      W Castrojeriz zobaczyliśmy kościoł, który w zeszłym roku był zamknięty. Teraz do funkcjonującego kościół dołączyła się ekspozycja obrazów i rzeźb z XV- XVI wieku.
      Zadziwiają mnie czasami kombinacje jak są łączone święte postacie, np. bardzo rzadko spotykana figura Świętej Anny, Jej córki Maryi i wnuka Jezusa, czyli piękny zestaw 3 pokoleń razem.
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    • Day 21

      Rabe de las Calzadas to Hontanas 18km 5.

      September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Today we entered the part of the Camino called The Meseta. It is a long flat area of farmland, Corn, wheat and sunflower fields for as far as the eye can see. There are few shadows and the sun was scorching hot 🥵. This is the type of terrain that we have imagined the Camino would be like before we began. We find this section so beautiful and serene. They say the first part of the Camino is the physical challenge…and it surely was. The Meseta is now the mental challenge. We found the crowds have thinned as many people choose to skip this part, But for those that continue it is a time for reflection and soul searching. We think we are up for the mental challenge of The Meseta, as long as our bodies are.
      Ann is still walking in sandals, thank goodness for the flat terrain.
      We are staying in a modern albergue (although still in a very old building) that has a spa attached. Our fanciest one yet, but we still have to share a large room with about 25 others. At least the beds are comfortable and well spaced out.
      Had a lovely dinner tonight with people from Columbia and Germany.
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    • Day 10

      San Bol and Hontanas

      July 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Todays 23 kilometer flew by. After a stop in Hornillos to recharge the empty coffee battery, the way just rolled a bit and led to San Bol, where I cooled my feet and rested in the shade until it was time to finish the final six kilometers.Read more

    • Day 20

      Hontanas

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Almost 12 miles today.
      You can really tell the sun is rising later these days. We started off in the dark today, and because of the clouds it took a long time to get light. We are now in the meseta, which I was told was very flat. It wasn't that flat today and not tomorrow either. We reached our destination at about 2:00. I was very glad to get here. It had been raining for an hour and I didn't have my rain jacket. So cold! I had a nice long, hot shower and hot chocolate. Then I took a nap. Only 2 more hours until dinner!
      The last 2 pics are where we are staying tonight. It's nice. Even has a spa/pool on the bottom floor. I wish I had my swimsuit.
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    • Day 16

      Day 13- Burgos to Hontanas

      September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      We traveled from Burgos to Hontanas today…our longest day so far at 31 kms or 19.25 miles. We have entered the Meseta which is a long and relatively flat plateau.

      The Meseta is about 180 km long and is reported to be dull and boring . As you will see from the pictures it is a rolling hill landscape of basically grain fields so far. I can see why people may say it is boring but there are still portions that create great contrasts and good pictures!

      We left early this morning and it was a bit chilly so we started in long pants and jacketed . By early afternoon the sun warmed us up but the winds kept us from over heating.

      We met several new friends today and also some that we haven’t seen in quite awhile. In fact 1 gentlemen we haven’t seen since day 2 appeared today and it was great to catch up and hear about his journey!

      On the physical front, not so good. My knee held up for the first 7 miles but after that it became a bit of an issue. As it was clear that the weight of a pack was aggravating things, at 15 kms CJ switched packs with me and as his is lighter that did help. We also began a more regimented system of rest periods . So I was able to make it the day 19 miles but there were periods where that was in jeopardy.

      Our new strategy is two fold. First , there is a service that will transfer your pack to your next location so that you only need to travel with what you need for that day so I will send my pack forward and will carry very little. If that helps the knee than we are good to go.

      If that doesn’t work then I will leave the trail and go forward to the next large city and rest the knee while CJ continues to walk the Camino and we will connect when he reaches that city. We will than try to continue together from there. If that doesn’t work then I may be faced with the decision to suspend my Camino and travel home.

      I will tell you that these plans and decisions are excruciatingly hard to work thru. Despite the knee , my experience has been and continues to be one of the most profound experiences in my life. To not walk into Santiago with CJ at my side is just to hard for me to accept so will do everything in my power to not have to leave the Camino without having finished. We have a long way to go and I am hopeful that I can modify my routine to allow my knee to propel me to the finish line! Some pain is ok, long term damage I will avoid…in the end I am hopeful that the Camino will provide!
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    • Day 18

      Day 18: Hontanas

      September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      It was fun to mix things up today with our rental ebikes. We zipped across the 32 kilometers in little more than two hours, with plenty of charge left on the bikes’ batteries.

      Allan joked that we were passing pilgrims like picket fence posts!

      The route was mostly flat, but there was one sneaky, roller coaster style descent that had us riding our brakes for quite some time.

      We stopped along the way several times to chat with pilgrims we’ve met along the way. Since we are leapfrogging ahead quite a bit with the bikes, we may not see them again.

      Then, we shared our lunch table in Hontanas with a German pilgrim we’d seen along the Camino several times but whom we hadn’t had a chance to talk in depth with.

      Given our experience today, we are optimistic about the batteries lasting for tomorrow’s 82 1/2 kilometer ride to Moratinos.

      As we enjoyed our day here, we warily monitored news about Hurricane Ian’s path toward Florida. We are concerned for friends and family in the state, as well as for our property in Saint Augustine and Green Cove Springs. May all be well…
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    • Day 13

      Hontanas

      July 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

      Before leaving Burgos, we had a communal breakfast with friends from France and Chile. Next, we headed into the high Meseta-, 32K, some steep elevation gain, no shade, with temperatures in the high 90's. There were wheat fields as far as the eye could see, along with this small oasis of trees, and a dwelling cut into the side of a mountain. At one point, a car came driving up from nowhere- it was a team of bombaderos just checking up on pilgrims, offering water and assistance. We were doing ok, but thanked them for the offer! Even though we made it to Hontanas by 1:30, (7 hours of walking), the heat and distance made this one of our toughest days yet. Marjory and I had a beer and toasted our arrival in Hontanas. Later, we had a communal dinner offered by the albergue- salad, paella, and cheese cake- delicious! We met new friends from Denmark, Germany, and Italy. After dinner, we strolled around this tiny town and visited the church and this little structure cut into the side of a hill. What do you think is behind the blue door?! We will be starting our 27K trek, in the same type of terrain, at 5am tomorrow, to try to avoid the heat. We're learning!Read more

    • Day 19

      Rain In Spain Falls Mainly in the Plains

      September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Burgos to Hontanas
      Day 16 - 31 Km

      As we found out today, especially in the Meseta!!
      We started out around 8am with a cloudy day. Lovely walk out of Burgos by the river. We encountered rain about 5km into our day but only a little. Again we were walking through fields of sunflowers and beautiful rolling hills.
      On the way out of the first little village called Rabes de las Calzades we encountered a beautiful little church. Here we were amazed by the lovely nuns who gave us, individually, a very special pilgrims blessing, along with a lovely pendant, which we will treasure. 💕 We were very overwhelmed by the dedication of these beautiful people ( and we both had misty eyes when we left. 🥺)
      Our next stop was at a pub around 10km away our destination for the night. It was a welcome relief from the rain so we stopped for a pilgrim meal which included a 🍷 . The rain persisted until about 2pm but by then we were cold and wet. The village we are staying at tonight was a very welcome sight after a 31km day. We had the best host ever, who gave us a wonderful night, gorgeous food and a fantastic atmosphere! Full bellies and ready for sleep 😴
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    • Day 18

      PRAISE BE

      April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      It might not look like much but Rusty was right, this was, by a country mile, the best meal I've had so far in Spain. And I've walked heaps of country miles now, so I know.

      I heard a lot, before I came, about menu dal dia (of the day, allegedly a thing introduced by Franco) and menu peregrino (pilgrim, usually a few euro cheaper and significantly less exciting) but somehow I've not been connecting with them.

      Today I did. I got lentils, a lamb stew, bread, water, 500ml of red wine, and an icecream for €15 and it was insanely delicious. Because I'm incapable of not being The Best Customer I also got a coffee on the house.

      I then went home and had a nap, and to be honest if you'd been awake since 3am and walked 35km and had four glasses of wine and REAL SHEETS for once, you'd have done the same.
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