Spain
Huércal-Overa

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    • Day 26

      Vera to Cuevas del Almanzora

      April 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

      What a wonderful day! It was like somebody laid out a mystery in front of us, and then slowly revealed the answer in tantalizing pieces with one grand denouement. We started our walk wondering how people were making a living in this dry, dry part of Spain. There were more orchards and crops along today’s backroad, and then once over the crest of the hill separating the city of Vera from Cuevas del Almanzora, the whole landscape of the huge area drained by the Rio Almanzora opened out in front of us. There were a few of the tall, tent-like invernaderos (greenhouses) that we’ve seen hundreds of near Almeria, but most of the landscape was covered with what looked like parallel lines of giant white caterpillars. And then we came to the exciting part: a tractor was laying out the white lines right before our very eyes. Here’s how it’s done. First, the crop is planted in long rows, protected by black plastic laid directly on the ground to keep the weeds down. Then hoops about 2 feet high are driven into the ground along the row. Finally a tractor with rolls of plastic and a special machine on the back lays plastic over the hoops, while at the same time dredging up dirt from the sides of the row to cover over the edges of the plastic so they can’t be caught by the wind. (Watch for the little wheels doing this job in the video.)

      Now we are resting up, so we can go out and watch one of the Semana Santa processions tonight.
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    • Day 27

      Cuevas: Caves and a reservoir

      April 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      You can see from a glance at the photos that today’s walk was like stepping into a painting! The cliffs just north of town were bathed in an early morning light that perfectly silhouetted the more than 300 cave homes that dot its face. Some are from prehistoric times, and others are in use right now. A friendly lady who was outside in her bathrobe beating a carpet explained that the high-up caves that look inaccessible now actually had pathways running to them when they were in use. Erosion has changed the geography of the cliff to what we see today.

      Next comes a dam with a huge Indalo symbol painted on it. It holds back a reservoir that was established by a farmers’ cooperative in the 1980s in order to provide year-round access to water for agricultural purposes.

      This short mountain interlude is a big change from the vast agricultural territory both behind it and ahead of it.
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    • Day 28

      Repositioning

      April 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      Very surprisingly, there are no longer any hotels open in the city of Huércal-Overa (pop 20,000). There were four before Covid, but none of them are open now, so if we walked from Cuevas del Almanzora to Huércal-Overa, we would have no place to stay. Instead, we hopped on a bus in Cuevas del Almanzora this morning to reposition ourselves to a spot where we can get to Huércal Overa tomorrow morning. Many thanks to Laurie and Sabine for finding this option for us. It’s especially handy that the hotel had a vacancy during Easter week, and even more that it is the one place around here reachable by bus.

      In one of those unexpected coincidences of life, when Ned and the hotel receptionist got talking, it turned out that the receptionist’s family has lived for 40 years in the same city in New Jersey where Ned was born! The grandfather in the family came to the United States as a shepherd in the 1920s, and after five years gained US citizenship. Since then many members of the family have been involved in education in the U.S. His sister-in-law is an award-winning bilingual teacher in New Jersey. You can imagine our big smiles during that conversation!

      Ned’s walk today: to an abandoned mine nearby.
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    • Day 29

      Huercal-Overa Via Verde

      April 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      Stage 8 of the Ruta del Argar from Huercal Overa to Almendricos runs along the line of the abandoned Guadix-Almendricos railroad, now reopened as a via verde (greenway). We had really been looking forward to this stage - easy walking with much of interest to see in the surrounding agricultural land including the water museum at El Saltador, but we were stymied yet again by the absence of any place to stay at the end of the stage in Almendricos. However, we had a fine out-and-back walk starting from the old railway station and saw some things we hadn’t expected. It seems that Gustave Eiffel’s work inspired some of the iron bridges that still remain along the line, and he himself may have designed the loading dock at Águilas at the end of the line.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Huércal-Overa, Huercal-Overa

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