La Latina

Yesterday, we booked 2 pm starting time tickets for the Royal Palace so we had the morning to explore the historic Plaza Major.

This large, cobblestoned plaza dates back to Madrid’s glory days in the 1600s when it was the main square, and not the Puerta de Sol. In 1619, the king made Madrid the capital of Spain and soon afterwards a former market place was transformed into this plaza.

The four-storey buildings around the square are all symmetrical with windows, balconies, slate roofs and steepled towers all the same.

In the 17th century, this plaza was where all the important things happened - bullfights, Carnaval activities, Royal pageantry and even the trials and gruesome punishments of the Inquisition. Up to 50,000 people could crowd into this square for such spectacles.

Before entering one of the arcades of the plaza, we happened to see several people looking up above a clockmaker’s store. And what were they looking at? The Salt Street Watchmaker.

He’s an automaton, perched on a balcony over an old clock and watch store. Every half-hour this mechanical man comes to life to work on his timepiece. The music that plays for him is “Madrid” from a traditional Madrid zarzuela (operetta), with lyrics that literally sing the praises of the city.

The streets in this area are named after the important buildings or trades that were found on each street. So there is a Salt Street, an Embroiderer’s Street, the Mail Street, etc. Medieval street signs posted on the corners of the buildings included pictures so the illiterate could read them.

We entered the square where lots of activities were going on while being watched by mounted police. All around the square, tables with big umbrellas with heaters were set up and of course people socializing and drinking coffee or beer/wine.

Walking under the arcade, we came to a fascinating bar called La Torre del Oro Bar Andalu. The interior is a temple to bullfighting with walls totally covered in photos (some very glory) of famous bullfighting moments. The photos showed matadors having both very good and bad days. Above the bar are stuffed bull heads with their names, weight, birth date, owner, date of death and the matador that killed him and the location. We may have nightmares tonight!

A lot of the men, and some women, wear a very traditional tweed hat with a brim called a parpusa. It looks similar to a Peaky Blinders hat. We saw an old shop (from 1894) that was selling these hats. They were a range of prices but many in this shop were selling for over 100 euros, or around $150 Cdn!

We saw that several people were eating churros and dipping them in hot chocolate. We have ate churros in Mexico but haven’t tried a Spanish one so we had a break, sat at one of the tables in the square and sampled one while people watching. They taste similar to the ones we are used to but are not coated in as much sugar.

Leaving the square, we came to a street with underground bars. Plaza Major was built on a slope and the underground vaults are part of the structure that braces the levelled plaza.

Right beside this area, is the Mercado de San Miguel (1916). It is the oldest surviving market hall and has about 30 vendors . It is different than other markets that we have seen as you can buy and eat a variety of tapas here along with a glass of wine, Sherry or vermouth. It would be a good place for a quick lunch.

Around the corner, there was a brick, not stone, church and convent built in 1607. A dozen steps away, there is a big brown door and a sign that says Venta de Dulces (Sweets for Sale). We walked in and went down a dark hallway to another sign that said Torno . This is a lazy Susan that lets nuns sell their baked goods without being seen. We checked the price list and what was being offered. The quantities were large so we didn’t buy anything but another lady did and we watched. You tell the hidden nun what you wanted, the lazy Susan turns and your goods appear. Then you put your money on the torno and if you need change it will appear in another turn. Lol. The other lady got a big box of almond shortbread cookies covered in icing sugar. She offered them to us to sample and they were good but oh so many!

The oldest square in Madrid, Plaza de La Villa, was right around the corner and in this plaza the oldest building/tower (1494) in Madrid is located. The door is in the shape of Arabic doors, a keyhole shape. This building was also used as a prison at one time.

Then on we went past the former town hall, and a memorial to a 1906 assassination attempt on kIng Alfonso and his bride on their wedding day. They weren’t killed but twenty eight onlookers were. The king and queen lived on to a ripe old age.

It was an excellent morning for us, filled with interesting things to see. And now, we were close to the Royal Palace and the wonders it held.Read more