Spain
León

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    • Day 24

      León

      September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      Today we took a bus to León. This moved us 95km ahead. Hopefully this will allow me to finish on time for my flight home.
      After finding the place we are staying, we had lunch and then went exploring.
      First up was the Cathedral de León. Built in the 13th century with Gothic style. Apparently, this style used lighter materials which allowed for more windows. Boy did they deliver!
      After the Cathedral, we visted the Basílica de San Isidoro. Then there was a lot of walking around.
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    • Day 21

      Day 21 - León

      September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      We opted to take an unplanned rest stop in León today, while I recover from some bug I picked up along the Way.

      We’ve been pushing pretty hard almost every day for the past three weeks, and my body is welcoming the rest as evidenced by all the hours of extra sleep it is happily enjoying.

      I dragged myself out of bed for coffee a block away this morning, napped for several hours, and roused myself again for a nice lunch three blocks away. A troupe of visiting musicians, a “tuna” from Southern Spain, spent their lunch break jamming from a neighboring café, adding a lovely touch to our meal.

      Now, after a nice postprandial soak in a tub of hot water, I’m ready to snooze again.

      Securing accommodations has been a challenge —and after our unpleasant stay in the “infirmary” dorm in Agés on September 24 we’re sticking to private rooms for the rest of our trip—so tomorrow we’ll hop in a taxi to cover the 50-plus kilometers to Murias de Rechivaldo, which we would have walked today and tomorrow had we not stopped here today.
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    • Day 33

      Leon

      October 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Days 28 and 29 - Leon. I can’t decide which town I like more - Burgos or Leon! There is a 7 day festival going on to celebrate the patron Saint of Leon. My hostel is right on the main street through town and all day there are parades going past my balcony and all night people are partying - loudly! I feel that the Spanish don’t care about money and work - they make sure they have fun, and I really like that about them.
      The cathedral in Leon is absolutely spectacular! From the outside it looks beautiful and on the inside it is breathtaking. There are stained glass windows all around at three levels. And what’s amazing is that from the outside the stained glass windows are not at all obvious.
      The other really nice experience was the Casa Botines designed by Antoni Gaudi in 1892. It now houses the Gaudi Casa Botines Museum - devoted to the architecture and construction of the Casa Boutines as well as some history around Gaudi and his works. I never realized what an architectural genius he was and how prolific.
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    • Day 22

      Etappe 18 - Leon, Stadtrundgang 1

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Gut ausgeruht geht es heute auf Erkundung durch die Stadt.
      Frühstück gab es in der Nähe der Kathedrale. Dabei konnte ich die Vereidigung junger Rekruten zur Guardia Civil beobachten.
      In Leon werde ich außer der Kathedrale kein weiteres Museum besuchen - ich möchte das Flair und die Ausstrahlung der Stadt und ihrer Menschen auf mich wirken lassen. Beim Barbier habe ich heute mal begonnen.
      Sitze jetzt bei Tinto de ferrano und Café con letche über der Planung der nächsten Etappen und eventuell der Übernachtungen. Habe keine Lust in den Run auf Betten in den kommenden Tagen wieder zu verfallen. Drei Auberges sind somit erstmal gebucht. Danach sehen wir weiter.
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    • Day 26

      Stage 24: Reliegos-León

      October 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      6 km/ 3.6 miles on foot, 20km/12.4 miles by taxi, 53°-65°
      Gimped the 6 km into Mansilla de las Mulas this morning, where I found coffee, food, an ATM, a pharmacy and a taxi to León, in that order. The wonderful pharmacist fitted me with a slip on ankle compression sleeve and some ibuprofen topical gel. I now have the hope of actually completing the Camino.
      I found out the bus to León wouldn't run till 4:19 pm so sprung for a taxi. Arrived to a bustling León with everyone out strolling, visiting and sitting in cafes. Toured the awesome cathedral, perused a medieval craft fair and now am treating myself to lunch on the Plaza Regla with a fantastic view of the cathedral. Will check into my hotel at 3:00 pm.
      Addendum: Discovered the reason the only room I could find in León was in a 4 star hotel was because their big autumn festival dedicated to the lesser known Saint Froilán is in progress, ending tomorrow. There will be live music tonight in Plaza Mayor, right outside this hotel. Party!
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    • Day 23

      Day 22, Bercianos to Mansilla

      June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      I think this counts as my most challenging day yet. I went to sleep early but was really not well during the night and had to do a number of emergency trips to the bathroom - not ideal
      In any circumstances but especially awkward when you are sleeping in a dormitory full of strangers. One of my roommates, Pearl, told me she didn’t hear anything and I do hope she wasn’t just being polite.
      I’d arranged to meet Nick, Paul and Mike (Pearl came too) at 6.30 so was up early but threw up before I left and once, embarrassingly, on the road.
      The team were absolutely lovely and Mike, who was walking with me at the time of my embarrassment, was an absolute gentleman for the rest of the walk. His conversation kept me going. Two Italian men who were passing at the time were also extremely solicitous. They were trying to offer advice but we were struggling to understand each other. They walked on a bit and then returned with a paragraph on Google translate with their suggestions.
      Despite feeling a bit wobbly I managed to walk the 27 kms to Mansilla de las Mulas. There didn’t seem to be a lot of choice but to keep walking because we were in the middle of nowhere and I knew I didn’t want to stay there.
      I was hugely relieved to arrive in Mansilla but as soon as we got there Nick found out that there was a bus to Leon in 10 minutes (and several hours before the next one) so I didn’t have time to see Fiona before I moved on.
      Rachel joined us in taking the bus but Fiona wanted to stay to swim at Mansilla. And unlike the rest of us, she does not want to cheat by skipping the harsh walk along the highway into the city.
      In Leon I checked into my lovely room and slept for ages while half listening to the Archers omnibus. In the evening I got up, had a bath and met the others. I felt a lot better. However I decided to play it safe tonight so left them to eat without me and went to a supermarket where I got myself bread, cheese, a banana and a coke for dinner. There’s lots of life in the street below me and Leon seems a lovely city - I’m hoping to be on top form tomorrow when Fiona arrives.
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    • Day 24

      Leon to Villadangos

      September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      Left for Villadangos at 7:45 AM. Approximately 24 km's. Leon is a very modern city. I saw more identity and style here than any other city on the Camino so far. The tour of the cathedral was awesome. Had to say farewell to Poala. She has to get back to her job in Italy. At Valverde decided to go another 10 km's. Was feeling pretty good. So I and a couple others hiked into Villadangos, for a 33 km day. Most so far in one day. What was even more special as I was leaving Dora The Explorer and Gisella was arriving. I am so happy you didn't get to see three old people acting like children hugging and laughing. Since I was on my was out we said we would reconnect in Astorga.Read more

    • Day 17

      Day 14- Hontanas to Boadillo

      September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

      So today we hiked from Hontanas to Boadillo de Camino a 28.5 km walk (about 17.5 miles) . Not only was it a bit chilly this morning but a heavy fog greeted us for about 90 minutes. It was definitely an eery feeling as our headlamps would cut through the fog!
      Hontanas sits down in a bit of a valley and the valley is rather long so until we walked up and out of it, we had the mist. As such the sunrise was uneventful so no good sunrise pics today!

      The Meseta is true to its form in that it is a flat plateau but today we did have a peak to deal with. 1100 foot rise with a 12% incline. It was the first time we have seen an incline sign ! We marched up relatively easily and the views were just stunning as you could just see forever! With that said the decline was marked as an 18% decline which with my knee I considered unfair:) I hobbled down it literally one step at a time!

      The odd thing that happened while hiking this mountain was after we rested at the peak and started to approach going down, a police vehicle drove up the path onto the top of the hill. We were already 400 yards away but we could see the police get out of their car and start talking with the other pilgrims. I was hoping that they had come up the hill to offer rides down however no such luck.:) After we descended they did drive down the path and the car was marked civil policia so not sure what that was all about.

      I have forgotten to mention in the past but often the Camino path acts as a road …for farm tractors especially. Those guys come rolling along on machines with tires that stand taller than me and they don’t slow down for pilgrims:) it is either get out of the way or be smushed!

      After we came down the mountain we had about 10k to go and then I asked CJ about whether I should continue on with the pilgrimage or hop ahead and get the leg some rest. He said “ Dad I have watched you limp along for 30 + miles in the last two days but you got to give that knee sometime to heal and it isn’t going to heal while you are walking all day every day. I have calculated and planned it out so that you go to Leon now and I will continue to walk and be there in 4.5 days. I would like a few days rest after I get there so we can pick back up in Leon after that which will give you 7 days to rest that knee and we will still be on our schedule . Yes you will miss 75 miles of hiking but the rest of the trip will be that much more enjoyable for you. I know you can and want to tough it out but you just shouldn’t.”
      SO that is what I have done. Here we are in the middle of freaking nowhere but I got a phone and cell reception. We had already gotten a number of a taxi driver who serves the Meseta area so sent him a note using the What’s app platform and got him to meet me at the albergue we were headed to and take me to Leon( 75 mile trip!) Then found a 1 bedroom apartment in downtown Leon to hole up in , and confirmed that my pack that I had shipped this morning to the next albergue would be there by the time we were so the taxi could pick me up when we arrived. All told took about 30 minutes…you gotta love the internet!

      While I am seriously depressed about missing that section with him, I can’t help but admire his knowledge and logic not too mention how he has learned to handle me:) he is a pro!

      I know I will be bored to tears but I will stay off this knee except for food runs and I hope that this will enable me to carry on to the finish line in Santiago with CJ at my side. I will not miss that even if I have to do it in a freaking wheelchair!

      So this will be the last update for awhile but I would like to thank everyone who has sent notes of support. They have meant a lot to both of us!
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    • Day 20

      Day 17- Healing in Leon

      September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

      Just a knee update.
      As you see from the picture I have been icing my knee . I am doing it 5 times per day .keeping it elevated most of the day. Had the knee brace on day 1 and did not have it on yesterday.
      Today will be my 3rd complete rest day. First day I needed to go out to the grocery store to get food and walked about 3000 steps that day. There was pain in the knee when I walked and I had the brace on.
      Yesterday came in at 250 steps:)
      The funny thing is that new watch I bought kept notifying me to get moving throughout the day:)
      Also on day 1 of rest I did extensive googling on knee injuries. Probably wasn’t a good use of my time but did get a lot of info. One thing I read about that surprised me was the use of NSAIDS with soft tissue injuries. Seems like there is some debate about whether they slow the healing process. As a result I decided to stop taking the anti inflammatory meds I have and just see what happens as I am not in pain when not walking and the icing should help the internal inflammation which I assume I have. There is no exterior swelling.
      The knee has felt different yesterday morning as well as this morning. Yesterday it felt completely fine with ease of movement. No soreness or pain when I poke around with my hand, did a few squats and no issue. This morning the knee feels tighter and a bit contracted.A little feeling of soreness but mostly just feels tighter. I am assuming that these are good signs that healing is occurring. I plan to do my 250 steps today as well as I have enough supplies.
      Tomorrow I will need to go to the store again so that will be a good test of whether I have made any progress or not. After today I have another 4 days of complete rest so fingers crossed!
      Yesterday I mapped out a plan for the rest of the trail if I can begin walking it again. While they say this is an easy walk there are still quite a few elevation changes that one must navigate . The plan I concocted would have us stopping half way down the two largest mountains so that I can split the downhills into 2 days as my downhill walking is more of an issue that flat or uphill. Using this plan would have us arrive in Santiago on 10/9. We do want to go to Finisterre which is 51 miles from Santiago ( it is also called the “ end of the world”) and is the coast of Spain on the North Atlantic Basin . There are bus trips there and back so that will take a day. I ain’t waking 51 more miles:) Our flights are set for 10/10 so will need to push them out a day but did the research on that and should be easy to arrange but we will need to leave from Madrid instead of they Paris as it is difficult to get a flight from Santiago to Paris but easy to get a train to Madrid not to mention that everything I read is the train trip to Madrid provides great views as well!
      CJ is crushing the trail. First day he did around 14 miles and then yesterday he did 40km which is just under 25 miles! Also yesterday morning he had rain and 20 mph wind till about 11am. He said he only saw 10 hikers and 2 bicycle hikers in the morning. In the afternoon it was sunny and he was rolling along! Said it has all been flat and the views are not particularly grand as it is in the middle of the Meseta . He and I talk several times a day so he is keeping me connected with his journey . He has about 55km left to get to me so he should be here tomorrow afternoon. He will have great hiking weather today although it is 48 degrees right now and will only have a high of 65 today and partly sunny all day!
      So in conclusion I am doing the RICE approach, hopefully healing and trying to keep my sanity, Thank goodness for the internet and the 2 streaming services I have that work internationally( Apple TV and Netflix)! Many thanks to all that have reached out, I am hopeful that I can get back to the trail and so far so good so we shall see!
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    • Day 26

      To León

      September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

      We had a nice, relaxing walk to León today. This city is a favorite of ours…so, so beautiful!!

      The Good

      1. Sunrise over the cornfields
      2. Yummy croissants during our 2nd break
      3. The cooler walking weather
      4. Getting new sandals and a replacement long sleeve shirt

      The Funny

      Alan was so hungry by our second break, he bought three croissants 🥐 , one for me and two for him. These French women walked up and were so excited to see our croissants! They walked in to buy some. Alan sheepishly looked at me and told me he had bought the last three. The poor French woman came back out with different pastries and Alan tried to explain, basically by miming, that he had been very hungry. 😂😂

      The Best

      1. Homemade churros dipped in melted chocolate 😋😋
      2. León’s old city
      3. Seeing Candi! ❤️❤️
      4. Visiting with Finton
      5. Dinner in front of the Cathedral
      6. Our hotel room with an actual king size bed! 🙂 🛏️

      We are kind of wishing we were taking a rest day here because this hotel room is amazing and the bed is so comfy, but tomorrow we will walk to Villar de Mazarife.

      We have 191 miles left until Santiago. 🥾
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    León, Leon, ليون, Ciudá de Llión, Lleó, Leono, LEN, レオン, 24001, Леон

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