Spain
Lestedo

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    • Day 28

      Another day, another detour!

      May 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Pico Sacro (Sacred Peak) has an important role in the Saint James story. It is told that when the two disciples bringing St. James’s body from the holy land arrived in this part of the world, they spoke with La Reina Lupa. (a pagan queen). She told them to bring the body up to the top of Pico Sacro, with the nefarious plan that the dragon in residence would take care of the intruders. Thanks to divine intervention, however, the dragon was killed. Reina Lupa converted to Christianity and some say she is also buried in the cathedral in Santiago.

      I have seen Pico Sacro’s recognizable shape from afar many times and from different directions on different caminos. This was the year to get up to the top. Pico Sacro is only a few kilometers off this Camino. Once again, I am grateful for Wikiloc . I found a track that did not involve backtracking, but made for a perfect little bump out and back to the Camino route.

      The 360 views are pretty great, and I could definitely make out the Santiago Cathedral spires. I was surprised to have the place all to myself, but enjoyed a couple of mandarins and some nuts while sitting on a stone on the top and rotating to change the view every few minutes.

      From there to today’s destination was only a few kilometers. Since tomorrow is a big holiday in Santiago, I stocked up on a few groceries before heading to my Casa Rural. I did not know until last night that the Ascension is a huge deal fiesta in Santiago, second only to St. James’ day in July.

      The casa rural is a beautiful place, Casa De Casal. The home has been in the family for many generations, and Patrícia’s father and mother converted it into a Casa Rural. They have a huge amount of land, because her father had been a commercial flower seller, selling flowers to all the stores in the province. It’s a beautiful and very restful place. It’s not normally the case that I am showered and done with washing clothes by two, so I can enjoy the grounds in the sunshine and admire the many shades of green.

      16 km and 524 m of ascent. From one nice Casa Rural (Quinta das Maceiras) to another.
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    • Day 28

      Mosteiro de Carboeiro

      May 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Promptly at 4:30, José Manuel picked me up. A very knowledgeable and garrulous man, he was not content to take me only to the monastery, but also took me to a huge pazo (estate) and several scenic lookout points. But for me, the prize was the monastery.

      I had the church all to myself, and it was beyond what I had imagined. So many intersecting and overlapping arches, the high vaults— it gave almost a gothic-y feeling of soaring space (sorry, I really don’t know what I’m talking about, but that was the impression it gave me). No human figures on the capitals, but lots of very intricate plant designs. I was very happy that I had spent a lot of time outside yesterday, and today my focus was just on the beautiful interior.

      I learned that Enrique Iglesias made a music video in this church, and it scandalized the church authorities. I watched it, and I have to say I am shocked. Since the monastery is owned by the government, the church had no input, but there was a lot of controversy

      https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m3We7p78XTo

      I am ending the day sitting out on the terrace of my Casa Rural, eating a good salad, and feeling very grateful.
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