Lugo

Today was our longest day on the Primitivo. We prepared ourselves well as we have done these distances together on the Portuguese Camino. We had breakfast before we left and brought extra snacks and drinks as there was potentially only one open bar/cafe on this long stage.

It was another misty morning and primarily overcast day. It made for hauntingly beautiful forest paths.

The real miracle of the day is that we only encountered four other pilgrims during our walk. Even though we took several rest breaks, only one couple caught up to us at the cafe. They were from the Netherlands and like my friend Mart, they had walked out their front door on their way to Santiago.

The only couple we caught up to was two Polish women that we've crossed paths with since the day we walked down to the dam.

Other than that the Camino was ours today. Everyone else had either left before us or were behind us. While making and having good friends on a Camino is meaningful, sometimes the gift of quiet solitude is very welcome. In two days this route merges with the Frances route. Bonnie and I joked that we won't see four pilgrims a day, but maybe four new pilgrims every four minutes.

I surprised Bonnie as we were leaving the small town with the cafe. We had departed the path to get to the cafe and she thought we were just heading back to it. However I ducked into an alley between two industrial buildings and knocked on an unmarked door. Bonnie was asking me what in the world I was doing when a woman opened the door and I inquired if this was the empanada bakery. She nodded yes and ushered us just inside the door. This bakery doesn't have a retail front. I think they just make and bake the empanadas at this location and they are sold elsewhere. I had read about them online and took a chance that they would sell us a fresh empanada for our lunch as there were no open stores for the next 20 kilometers. They put up with us invading their bakery and we left with a bacon and apple empanada secured in my lunch bag on the back of my backpack. We paid them well with Euros and pilgrim's genuine gratitude.

We did find one more special spot today on our walk. A Spanish couple had set up an oasis next to the path about 13 kilometers out of Lugo. They had melons, bananas, coffee, water and chairs - all on a donation basis. There are some people who have figured out how to capitalize on the Camino with money making opportunities. There are other people, usually people who have been pilgrims themselves, that give back to the Camino and serve those walking now. David and his wife are two of those people and Bonnie and I were grateful to receive from them as well as donate to their oasis as we left.

We arrived in Lugo having taken more steps than any other day but we weren't finished with our walk. This is a historic city with a Roman wall that surrounds the inner city. After dropping off our backpacks in our rooms and changing into our sandals we visited the cathedral for a stamp in our credential and then took the ramp up to the wall to walk the two kilometer archaeological masterpiece that was built in the 3rd and 4th century. It really is spectacular!

Our day wasn't complete until we rewarded our stomachs once again with a meal that was superb. The Royal Tandoori Indian Restaurant lived up to its billing and we are now heading to bed with happy bellies, full hearts and grateful spirits.

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