Spain
Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega

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    • Day 23

      San Juan to Burgos

      September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      A later post tonight as we have hit the city lights of Burgos. What a contrast to San Juan where the only noises were roosters and cow bells!
      I must say though that last night we had the best meal. Black pudding, pork loin chops and salad. All for about 35 per person that included 2 bottles of red wine. Burgos region is famous for black pudding made from pigs blood! Best we don't know.
      So we had a very early night and then up early and on the road by 645 am with head torches on. We walked about 5 km and came to a cafe in Ages, tiny village and had our coffee and croissant fix.
      On we walked with the sun rising and saw our first lot of sheep in ages. Even heard bird song which has been a rare sound.
      Climbed a pretty steep hill and walked through forests but the the fun part of the walk was over! After another stop at a roadsidecafe we walked and walked along roads and crossed major highways until we walked into the industrial area of Burgos.
      We tried to find the alternative route via a river but alas it was never found!
      It was hot and I guess we were getting hangry but on we trudged. I guess it was a good reminder to us that Spain is not just about cute little villages and pilgrim walks!
      We did pass on our way the site of some of the first human relics found at Atapuerca and is now a world heritage site.
      Finally we arrived at our destination but the hostel didn't open until 4 pm so what were 4 tired pilgrims to do but have a long Spanish lunch under the shade of plane trees.
      Burgos is such a contrast to the quiet villages we have been staying at and tonight it was warm and so many out and about. We witnessed the Burgos rugby club being cheered on in the square for winning the Spanish rugby championship and apparently 2 kiwis are in the team
      The women here seem very stylie and our rather crumpled pilgrim clothes seemed a bit out of place.
      Rest day tomorrow and our legs need it so we will do relaxing sight seeing and laundry! 26 km walked today
      Buenos noches
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    • Day 20

      Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

      May 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Today was tough in many ways. I had an early start as there was no accommodation available to be booked in San Juan de Ortega so I had to hope I’d get to the municipal albergue before it was full.

      On my way to Espinosa del Camino I passed Sandra from Germany who we had met in Orisson. We chatted a bit and made plans to have dinner together in Burgos on Thursday night with the Australian Sandra. While I was having breakfast in Espinosa del Camino she arrived and in that short space of time she had news from home that her father had died and she was going home. She gave me her rock to carry on to the Cruz de Ferro. I continued on and it was hard to shake the sadness. But I was so pleased that I had bumped into her at just that time. The remainder of the walk was 12 kms without any towns and the last half without shade again. It is getting very hot in the afternoons now. There is rain forecast for the end of the week but still high temperatures.

      The good news is that I arrived at the albergue before it filled and even got a bottom bunk. It’s a large room with 11 bunk beds so might be a noisy night with 22 of us. But it’s clean and friendly and the shower was hot. I had a (wine free) communal pilgrim dinner and sat with a young woman who came from Stroud in Gloucestershire and it was a good end to the day.

      Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega
      24kms
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    • Day 11

      Another sunrise

      August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

      I was the first one to get up at albergue Cuatro Cantones in Belorado, and I started walking in the dark, at 5am, with 15°C. It felt a bit cool, and great for walking.
      Today I had a route of 27k ahead, the first half being a slightly uphill walk to Villafranca Montes de Oca, and the second half a steep climb (one of the top 10 climbs of the whole Camino, I've been told) over La Pedraja, and finally a descent into San Juan de Ortega.
      I had to start that early, because the forecast for today was 35°C.
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    • Day 11

      Manolo

      August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      I have seen this man a few times in the last 3 days, and last night we were at the same albergue.
      This morning he started after me, and passed me on the way. He arrived at San Juan de Ortega before me.
      We just compared our walk stats, and he walked the same distance in half an hour less. He's turning 71 in September.
      Well done Manolo, you're a legend! 👏👏👏
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    • Day 15

      Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

      August 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      Left Belorado late this morning, went to the farmacia for an inflammatory. They opened at 9 AM so I was on the trail by myself for the most part. It was very nice considering. Approximately 24 Km, mostly up hill. Being all alone an unafraid was peaceful. The reward was at the out door restaurant so many people from all over the world showed appreciation for each other. Made the day special.Read more

    • Day 15

      Tosantos to Atapuerca

      April 6 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

      Breakfast was provided, although not earlier than 7am as "rest is very important" so we all had a sleep in for the sake of some free bread, jam and coffee. Rusty, either oblivious or unburdened by the LITERALLY HOURS of advice last night about being disconnected from the modern world on your pilgrimage, propped his phone up against the milk and live streamed the Carlton game at volume. As Josie has since suggested, I wouldn't be surprised if that finished Jose off and he gets out of the albergue game now.

      I got what turned out to be quite a dull day of walking underway at 8.30am. it was almost all on a straight forestry type road, the contrast was turned down with grey skies, and a persistent wind from the south gave me a deep comb-over. With nothing exciting at all to look at, it was good thinking terrain, and despite a (possibly mayonnaise poisoning) headache, I got a solid amount of that done.

      Again, the typical end point for today is St Juan de Ortega but I overshot it to finish in Atapuerca, which means getting to Burgos tomorrow (in the rain) will take 20 rather than 26km. Atapuerca is a big deal if you're into archaeology, with the earliest human remains in Europe found in now UNESCO World Heritage listed prehistoric caves here. At last count, it apparently evidences 1.4 million years of activity. So one night of listening to Jose then.
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    • Day 29

      San Juan de Ortega

      January 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      Es geht bergauf und beginnt zu schneien, dir Temperatur liegt nur geringfügig im positiven Bereich. Vermutlich fahren wir schon länger auf einer Höhe von über 500 Meter, sodass mich das Schild nicht sonderlich überrascht.

      "Wer das Kloster San Juan de Ortega erreicht, hat auch diese Etappe geschafft. Das Kloster ist zwar nicht mehr bewohnt, bietet aber eine Pilgerherberge. In der Klosterkirche befindet sich das Grabmal des Gründers, des zweiten Heiligen, der sich um die Verbesserung der Infrastruktur der Pilgerfahrt gekümmert hat, eines Anhängers seines Vorbilds Santo Domingo de la Calzada."

      https://www.jakobsweg.de/caminofrances/etappe-11/
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    • Day 15

      To San Juan de Ortega

      September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

      Holy cow, today was windy and WET! Started raining five minutes after we left for our walk and didn't stop the whole way. Two hours walking, a pause at a warm, lovely hostal to change socks and get a hot Americano, then two+ more hours slogging through the rain and mud. Our rain gear worked pretty well but our feet were totally soaked.

      Good news is we checked in before lunch service ended so were happy to eat a salad and pizza even in all our dampness.

      Hung our wet stuff out our window to dry, showered and took a nap after lunch. Then went to a neighboring albergue and met some more wonderful people, including Zoila (from Mexico, now lives in Colorado), who we have seen along the way, and a father/son duo from Argentina who is biking the Camino. The smaller towns are great for meeting people. There is literally nothing here but a hotel, two hostals (one bar/restaurant each) and a church.

      The pics show the different terrain today, which was lovely, wooded and mountainous. We realized it's harder to keep going when you can't see your destination. The last two+ hours were rough because it was so wet and muddy and there was no town in sight.

      Including an extra pic from last night showing the church next to our hotel lit up with a yellow arrow, the standard (along with a shell) waymarker on the Camino.
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    • Day 19

      St Juan de Ortega

      September 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Lovely Cafe. We had English Breakfast tea with milk, absolutely heaven. We also shared a ham and cheese toasted sandwich. This is really the first place that serves a mixture of food. Walked with Gerry, an English lady, for a time today.
      The total population of this village is 20.
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    • Day 14

      Atapuerca 19miles

      July 12, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      Mantras
      Continue to process forgiveness
      Look up!
      Even on rainy days, the light is present
      Show compassion and patience to myself and others.
      Breathe.

      Today was a BEAUTIFUL walk through dense forests and scenery reminiscent of a Monet painting. I had the privilege to walk through these canvas paintings all day and it was so peaceful.

      I can feel my body getting stronger and more healthy. It’s encouraging and exciting. My feet are almost blister free and only a tiny bit sore.

      I attempted to process forgiveness today but found it too raw to continue. Unexpected tears were a sign of pending trauma and as I accepted the pain, I also acknowledge the work that still needs to be done….whatever that may look like.

      Throughout the day I kept remembering the feeling of laughter and singing from the previous night and it would bring a smile to my face. I feel good here. I feel strong. I feel hopeful. I am alone and also a part of a Camino community. I have arrived.
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    Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega

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