Spain
Monasterio De San Zoilo

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    • Day 15

      15.DAY | 20 km

      May 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      La vita è bella...

      Heute Morgen machte ich mich auf meinem Weg und bemerkte einen Mann namens Mattia, welchen ich bereits am Vortag gesehen hatte. Da seine Schwierigkeiten mit dem laufen mehr als eindeutig waren, wollte ich ihn mental unterstützen und lief mit ihm und gab ihm Ibuprofen bis wir uns dann an meinem Zielort getrennt haben und es ihm glücklicherweise besser ging. Wenn man sich hier entscheidet, mit jemandem eine gewisse Strecke zu laufen ist eins sicher, du redest über so tiefgründige Sachen die dich am Ende des Tages ohne einen Cent bezahlt zu haben unendlich bereichern. Ich erzählte ihm dass ich gestern ein Lied von 1951 meiner Oma hörte und aufeinmal fingen wir an zusammen zu singen. Nun sitze ich hier in einem wunderschönen Kloster in meinem Zimmer und versuche meine Dankbarkeit zu greifen die einfach nicht mehr greifbar ist. Vor einigen Tagen sagte ich zu Pit "Kannst du mir erklären, wie ich mit 30 Jahren noch so Heimweh haben kann und dieses Gefühl was ich als kleines Mädchen bereits hatte nicht loswerde, die anderen können es doch auch" und er sagte zu mir: Elli dich gibt es nur einmal und du liebst deine Menschen bedingungslos was nicht jeder kann. Also habe ich auch hier eine Antwort auf die unendlichen Fragen die hier entstehen bekommen, ich sollte mich damit anfreunden, dass es für immer so bleiben wird und es ist okay. Ich vermisse euch! Dennoch fühle ich mich hier wie in einem Traum, wo du nicht weißt ob du geweckt werden möchtest.

      Elli

      La vita è bella...

      Questa mattina mi sono messa in cammino e ho notato un uomo di nome Mattia, che avevo già visto il giorno prima. Poiché le sue difficoltà a caminare erano più che evidenti, ho voluto sostenerlo mentalmente e ho camminato con lui dandogli anche dell'ibuprofene finché non ci siamo lasciati a destinazione mia e lui stava finalmente meglio. Quando si decide di percorrere una certa tappa con qualcuno qui, una cosa è certa: si parla di cose così profonde che ti arricchiscono immensamente alla fine della giornata senza aver pagato un centesimo. Gli ho detto che ieri ho ascoltato una canzone del 1951 di mia nonna e improvvisamente abbiamo iniziato a cantarla insieme. Ora sono seduta qui in un bellissimo monastero nella mia stanza e cerco di cogliere la mia gratitudine che è semplicemente intangibile. Qualche giorno fa ho detto a Pit: "Puoi spiegarmi come faccio a 30 anni ad avere ancora tanta nostalgia di casa e a non liberarmi di questa sensazione che avevo da bambina, anche gli altri ci riescono" e lui mi ha risposto: "Elli, tu esisti una volta sola e ami i tuoi cari incondizionatamente, cosa che non tutti riescono". Così ho avuto anche una risposta alle infinite domande che sorgono qui, dovrei fare amicizia con il fatto che rimarrà per sempre così e loaccetto. Mi manchate! Tuttavia, mi sembra di essere in un sogno, dove non so se voler essere svegliata.

      Elli
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    • Day 20

      Day 21. Carrion de Los Condes

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      We barely got started this morning when the Australian couple I was walking with noticed Philippe, a guy from Montreal who they had acquainted, frantically walking in the opposite direction. He stopped long enough to tell us he had already walked 5 kms before discovering he didn’t have his passport, so was backtracking, hoping he had left it at the auberge. Not a good start to his day.
      Judy, the one who did most of the chatting, ran her own farm, raising about 40 Black Angus cattle near Sydney, commented a lot on the Spanish irrigation system. She was impressed with the tractor diesel engine pumping water to the middle of the field. She also noted there were no farmhouses anywhere because farmers and their families had to live in towns or villages. She was impressed with their healthy crops, unlike Australia where it had been so dry. When I asked her if they used pesticides, she railed against against the “greenies ,” her word for environmental sympathizers, perhaps what some in Canada would call “tree huggers.” She had no use for them, characterizing them as freeloaders who did not work, smoked dope, survived on government handouts, and only generated energy when it came to protest.
      Setting a faster pace than them, I moved on trail next to the highway until a small village named Villalcazar, site of a Templar church. I was planning on going in but even more intrigued by a woman sitting at the café next to the church when she said to me, “You can get a miracle in there,” to which I replied, “OK, I’m open to anything.” Inside we’re not only decorated panels depicting the life of St. James, but also Father Mark was there, the athletic priest from Australia who strode past us a few days ago while reading a book. He must have carried his own chalice, hosts, and vestments because he offered us a mass all in Latin. It was a flash from the past for me with the priest facing the altar most of the mass. Some people knelt on the cold, stone floor for the full hour without sitting back on their haunches. He offered communion to us on our tongues while we knelt. I kept thinking, my dad would love to be here. I withstood less than 5 minutes of kneeling and that was enough for me. We started with 8 people and ended with about 20. I’ve included some photos.
      Overall, an easy walk today- 19.3 kms.
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    • Day 25

      At Carrion de los Condes

      May 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

      After climbing out of the enormous bed in last night’s hotel (I’m sure it could easily sleep 4!), we set out at about 8.30. And we are now staying at probably the best hotel of the trip tonight (though León will be similar), the hotel Monasterio San Zoilo, an ex monastery and almost like a parador. We’ve been here twice before and so were anticipating a lovely stay. All the hotels have been good, and very varied, but a few stand out.

      It was a fairly easy walk, 20 kms and flat, and we took the more scenic route through the fields and by a river, the alternative being a track beside the road for 15 kms. And it was warmer today, with all the layers on it became almost too many, and just before we arrived Rach and I shed a layer…that just means comfortable….we weren’t shivering for ages afterwards like we were 2 days ago! But it was windy, and we arrived very windswept….but no rain! We are so lucky…

      So despite being fairly flat it was very pleasant and brilliant green countryside, and many birds twittering and Rachel has an app that identifies birdsong! Such fun, we often hear nightingales which I’ve never consciously heard before, also cuckoos, warblers, and today the way was dotted with beautifully flowering tamarisks.

      A highlight of this segment is a visit to a wonderful church - Santa Maria de la Blanca - a Templar church in a small town, Villalcazar de Sirga, about 5 kms before arriving at Carrion. It is a magnificent building and we enjoyed seeing it again…it closes for the afternoon at 1pm, so there is always that deadline as you walk, but we were in good time…

      Had a beer and some croquetas in the bar here before we even checked in. Now relaxing and unwinding. Amr soaked his feet in the bidet just because he could…he is very proud of all the hat comments! We have dinner here at 8 or so and should be good.
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    • Day 19–20

      Monasterio San Zoilo

      September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      THIS is why we walked 30+ miles in two days instead of three. To get a room here, at an old monastery converted to a hotel.

      Beautifully restored and lovely, quiet atmosphere. The music in the lobby is some Gregorian chant on a loop that either soothes the people who work here or drives them crazy.

      Today's 13-mile walk seemed easy by comparison to the past two days. We stopped twice for a "wee" snack, meaning we bought something small at a bar or albergue so we could feel entitled to their bathrooms 😉.

      Arrived with plenty of time to explore and enjoy the setting. Currently sitting in a hall with rooms on the outside perimeter and windows overlooking the interior courtyard.

      I'd say the place feels hallowed but I'm aware of the high politics and other non-spiritual shenanigans that must have taken place here. There is, after all, a preserved prison cell in the museum on the first floor where a misbehaving monk, who may have done nothing more than try to chat with a lay person, would serve his punishment.

      We were big girls and stayed up for an 8 pm meal in the hotel's restaurant in the *attic*. Really hard to eat this late but when in Spain...
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    • Day 29

      Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos

      October 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      We knew today was going to be one of our more challenging days so we were up early having breakfast at 6 am of the usual toast coffee and orange juice. We had dined at the same cafe last night and the boys and I had delicious ribs and salad and Jane had trout, as you do in Spain! The trout was the winner and much nicer then the salmon we had had the night before . It could even have been a trout caught on the Hinemaia.
      So off we set in the dark out of Carrion and again the moon was brightly lighting up the beautiful old buildings. We knew there were no toilets or villages for 17 km so on we walked through what our guide book describes as a somewhat featureless landscape. The morning was cool though and the path was really soft underneath the feet which makes a difference!
      I was mainly scouting for a good place to have a bush wee but not easy with endlessly ploughed fields and few shrubs or trees.
      After 10 km or so we came across a food truck which was a great sight so coffees and freshly squeezed orange juice were had. The guy had a great business going literally in the middle of nowhere.
      The sun was slowly rising and it again was a blue cloudless day.
      Finally after 17 km we walked into a sleepy old village with a very nice cafe and a toilet! Our feet by now were getting pretty hot and tired and a little bit of attention was given to one of the members of the team of eight!
      The day was getting hotter and hotter so it was basically crack on and get over ourselves. The saying of " my feet are killing me" took on a new meaning.
      Finally after it seemed endless walking ( trudging) we rested on the foot path of another dusty hot town and 2 km later we came across an oasis of green and the alburgue/ hostel of Lostemparilios , quite modern but cool and clean. We couldn't get under the shade of the deep verandah with cold beers soon enough.
      Luckily this was about 1.30 pm so lots of relax and siesta time ahead.
      This hostel is out on its own but there seem to be lots of our fellow pilgrims here so no doubt lots of chat tonight and hopefully a tasty meal.
      Last night's pilgrim meal was 14 euro pp and we got a 3 course meal and half a bottle of wine pp. Pretty good value and the garlic soup was being served. All were happy.
      Today was one of our more challenging days and tomorrow is a slightly easier day of 23 km.
      Our young Aussie friend tells us that it's going to drop a few degrees tomorrow. Let's hope!
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    • Day 23

      Llegamos a Ledigos

      October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

      Today we left the place where we were staying in Carrión de Condes. We stayed in a restored monastery that’s been turned into a hotel. It was quite the foo-foo hotel! Dinner at the hotel restaurant was 35€ each! Yow! We went into the bar and had two cokes and a pizza each for 28€ total! Also, although the monastery was beautiful and stately, the whole place gave me the creeps. It had all these dark nooks and crannies and all these super quiet empty spaces, lots of violent religious art, and an odd smell. David thought it was great but it felt like a super haunted thousand year old building to me. They had a great breakfast though! So we were happy to have a hearty breakfast and get down the trail.

      Today we had a 17 km stretch right off the bat without any facilities so no bathroom, water refill points, or places to stop for coffee. Since David couldn’t carry a pack due to his sore back I carried water for two. It was heavy! But sure enough we drank almost a gallon of water between us.

      The trail was long and straight and went through farmland. I included a few pictures so you gave an idea of what we looked at all day. We both find this agricultural area pleasant and nice to walk through and looking at the different crops and farm equipment is interesting.

      We walked to a little Pueblo and bought a Coke and used the bathroom and then walked another 7 km (total was 25 km today) into Ledigos, a very little place with two albergues. We checked in and asked for help getting a taxi ride to Sahagún, 16 km away, so David could get a massage at the combination farmacia/sports massage place. I’m writing as I wait for him. The taxi driver, Fede, is coming back for us. He explained all the highway signs to us and told us all about the wildlife in the area. A lot of the animals have different names in Spain! A deer, for example, is called a “venado” in Mexico but here it’s called a “corzo.” Apparently there are lots of animals out there but we haven’t seen many yet! He also told us that storks here are really plentiful. We see their huge nests on churches. But he said all the storks picked up and left the area and no one knows why! Also there is a big bird of prey here that we saw but whose name I forgot, but like just about everywhere we saw the big fierce bird being messed with by a tiny bird. Just like what we see at home! Hawks being tormented by tiny birds!

      David didn’t carry a pack today (or yesterday) and he seems a lot better. No tilt today! I suggested he use poles even on flat land. He’s been doing exercises that our friend Cindy recommended, too. And now a sports massage! Hopefully he’s on the mend! So now that we have COVID and a sore back checked off, I think we’re done with Camino heath drama!!
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    • Day 20–21

      Walk to Ledigos

      September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      Not much to post. Long stretch of roadside paths with farmland in every direction. Apparently we can expect this for a few more days, which is why some people wish they could skip the Meseta.

      A shorter day, too (14 miles), with just one stop before arriving at our hotel/albergue, where we had a big pizza for lunch, did laundry and are now just hanging. Met a couple different people from the DMV and re-encountered Debra from Dallas, whose husband had to fly home for his father's funeral and will rejoin her in a week or so

      The past couple restaurants we've been to have had cats that come up to your table and beg like a dog.

      Wish I had a pic of a pilgrim who just passed. She is walking the opposite direction doing the Jerusalem Way, from Finisterre to Jerusalem. Just looked it up--it leads "from the end of the world over the heart of Europe to the beginning to Jerusalem to the east, towards sunrise and connects 15 countries and the continents of Europe and Asia with the Holy Land." Length: around 7,500 kilometers. Longest peace and culture path in the world

      She had her dog with her who was carrying his own food and water bottle. Just can't begin to imagine that experience. But she sure was happy and unconcerned to be walking at 6 pm. Wow.
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    • Day 3,124

      Carrión de los Condes, San Zoilo

      March 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 4 °C

      Dieses Kloster kann besichtigt werden, das Museum umfasst auch eine Ausstellung zum Jakobsweg und ist Sitz der hiesigen Jakobsbruderschaft. Ein Teil des Klosters wurde zudem zum Hotel umgewandelt. Ab hier sind es noch 400 Kilometer auf dem Camino Frances.Read more

    • Day 19

      Day 16 Boadilla to Carrion del Camino

      September 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Spent 3 hours last night forward booking all Camino accommodation and have some knowledge of the second half of the journey. It's all about to change !
      Today's walk was an early start out the door in the dark at 7am to cover 26km of long flat track across the Meseta. Caught up with Joanna and Bob at Fromista breaky stop and tge chatter passed the kms quickly.
      Arrived in Carrion del Camino and overwhelmed by my private room accommodation tonight in The Real Monestary San ,Zoile, a repurposed 11th Century massive Monestary.
      Met a lovely pilgrim from Singapore, Reyna, also staying there, had lunch together.
      An a la carte lunch of bread, wine, cold tomato soup, tuna pickle salad, sirloin steak and cheesecake with cookie and fig icecream, decafinado coffee. Followed by a long hot bath in my character filled room.
      An evening walk led us to the 7pm Santa Maria church mass where we received a Pilgrims individual blessing by the singing nuns. Quite a special highlight.
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    • Day 19

      Leaving Carrion de los Condes

      April 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      Had a lovely chatty breakfast with Jacob and Brian before all setting off to Terradilla de los Templarios. We knew we didn’t have any loo or water stops for 17km so it made us kind of nervous (at least Brittany and me anyway!)Read more

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    Monasterio De San Zoilo

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