Murias de Rechivaldo

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    • Day 38

      Made it to Murias de Rechivaldo

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

      Another beautiful 12 miles down the road today, we had a few ups and reverse ups 😀. Toured the church in Astorga and it was beautiful, we got a machine that you entered a number so you could hear the history of each area. The nice gentleman even got us set up with english..Read more

    • Day 30

      Murias de Rechivaldo

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      Variety was the reward for our day. After a week of crossing the Meseta, today led us along an ever changing path with ups and downs, quiet villages, changing crops and into Astorga; a larger town which of course was at the top of a steep hill. Today’s 16 miles went quick up until the last 5k into Murias de Rechivaldo which was a pretty hot walk at the end of the day.

      This comes after an great night at our country house where we were just plain pampered by Mercedes the owner. This was a unique night with just seven people at the albergue. Most of the dinner meal came from their garden with a nice pumpkin soup, great tomatoes, walnuts from their tree, and of course that Rioja red wine.

      Tonight we are having a pilgrim’s meal at our albergue owned by a German who walked the Camino and left his job as a chemical engineer to support pilgrims. We will be off tomorrow for the start of a steady climb back into the hills.
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    • Villares Órbigo to Murias de Rechivaldo

      October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      A day to celebrate with a couple of radlers. We have now completed 500+ km of the Camino Francés and 600+ km if we include rest days and walking around destination towns.

      Our host Marta provided us with all the breakfast we needed and we were walking into the dark morning by 7:45am. Sunrise was 8:30 and we walked mostly along unpaved rural tracks towards the city of Astorga.

      Initially quite undulating terrain, it eventually flattened out a few km before Astorga.

      Mostly cloudy and cool so good walking weather.

      We chatted with a couple of pilgrims from Quebec over coffee and chocolate croissants at the morning break in San Justo de la Vega. Easy flat path for the 4km into Astorga where we had some lunch and did some needed chores. We both needed to get cash and John managed to extend his Movistar SIM until the end of the trip.

      Astorga is the site of one of Antoni Gaudí’s beautiful buildings, the Bishops Palace. Looks very much like the castle in the starting credits of many Disney creations. See Kevin’s photo.

      We completed the day with the final 5km to Murias de Rechivaldo and our room at Casa Flor, a quirky albergue with a relaxing back garden where we have enjoyed a few drinks in the afternoon sun.
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    • Day 33

      Murias de Rechivaldo from Villavante

      June 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      A cool breeze blew all day, which kept off most of the heat but bedeviled my attempts at hiding from the sun under a straw hat.

      I didn't get much of a sunburn, maybe it's windburn? I'll be fine.

      The walk started hazy and cool enough to want a fleece. Delicious walking weather.

      We passed through fields and over some roadways to see Puente de Óbrigo... An enormous medieval bridge spanning what I assume were marshy riverside lands but are now drained fields with a cute town. Also enioyed a snacky chocolate croissant. Yum.

      The trail took us upward shortly afterwards, climbing gently but steadily up a few hundred feet to get our first glimpse of Astorga. Astorga is bigger and prettier than I expected. We had a good lunch and admired the cathedral but wanted to get a little out of town for better sleep (cities are loud) and pushed onward to a cute little spot with a charming lodging.

      I snoozed in a hammock (which is always my favorite thing), played with a dog (always my favorite thing), enjoyed an ice cold draft beer while swapping story with a fascinating international traveler (my favorite thing), and enjoyed live music while eating a healthy meal (my favorite).

      All in all.... The day finished strong.

      Also... Good doors today.
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    • Day 23

      Livin it up in murias

      October 23 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Getting absolutely spoilt with two consecutive veggie albergues 😍 And the veeg desert is levelling up - not quite last night's choc cake but at least the apple came pre-carved this time. Played this v fun card game till late with probably far too much noise and had the second beer of the day (?!!)Read more

    • Day 8


      May 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

      Nice place but I decided to hike on, grade increased from here and the heat and the dust. Terrain and flora very similar to Los Padres NF. First thing noticed, there are a lot more people. I’m going to submit to IUPAC an application for a new unit. I will call the Peregrimeter. Abbreviation ‘Pgm´. It’s defined as the number of people you see 1 kilometer in front of you. As in, coming in to Astorga it was 5 Pgm and coming out of Astorga it was 15 Pgm. Where I could see people and never get passed or pass, there was passing of one sort or another like 40-50 times. One advantage, new friends are easier to make! I am honing my greeting! The classic greeting is Buen Camino! Mine right now is Buen Camino! How ya doing? This enables the greeting, but also signals that I’m an English speaker. Non English speakers look at you in surprise and say “Good and You?” And that enables my classic, “Best Day of My Life!” A few seconds for the translation and a get big grins. English Speakers will then counter with, “Where ya from?” And off we go!…….

      My new trail buddy is Arthur from Santa Barbara. He’s a nurse from Cottage Hospital in Santa Barbara. Good match for stride and pace. We had second breakfast at the Bar Cowboy in Meson in El Ganso and Lunch at Abergue La Senda in Rabanal, where we met Michelle from Ohio and Paul/Pablo Murphy from San Diego…a retired Navy Carrier helo pilot. My place is El Refugio, updated just 2 years ago and really a little tight, it had a tub for wash and courtyard drying lines. Tonight looking forward to Gregorian chants from the monestery monks,
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    • Day 13

      Essen 🍖🍔🍕🍤

      June 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Immer wieder spannend, was man so zum Essen kriegt.
      Es gibt ein Menü des Tages, bei dem man aus drei oder vier Vorschlägen einen ersten Gang, einen zweiten Gang und dann auch noch einen Nachtisch auswählen kann.
      Dazu gibt's eine Flasche Wein 🍷 (auch wenn man ganz alleine kommt! Die armen Pilger!), Eine Flasche Wasser, Kaffee zum Schluss.
      Was man allerdings bekommt ist immer wieder eine Überraschung. Google translate ist nur bedingt hilfreich.😁
      Aber geschmeckt hatte bislang immer.
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    • Day 4

      El Ganso lunch break

      June 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Good day so far. Lovely albergue in Astorga. The rain has stopped and all looks rosier. The walking is better today for some reason. A bit cooler which definitely helps. The young people are doing well but some are struggling now. We've sent a pack ahead today which has helped. Very proud of them all.Read more

    • Day 29

      Astorga to Rabanal - into the country ag

      June 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Not a great night’s sleep but manageable. Set off at 6.45 as very keen to ensure a place at the UK donativo hostel in Rabanal.
      On the way out of Astorga I decided it might be worth looking for an alternative option for another time as Astorga didn’t seem like the best place to stay for lots of reasons. However I would definitely want to visit the Gaudi palace again but think I noticed large lockers, which would mean you could leave your bag while you visited and then carry on walking.
      Anyway, at exactly the perfect moment, I came to a lovely little village, Murias de Rechivaldo, which, at about 4.5 km outside Astorga, would be the perfect place to stop. And the. I found the perfect Albergue which looked lovely and has a communal vegetarian meal. Definitely staying there next time.
      The landscape has gradually changed today to become more wooded - although at times I thought that it looked quite like the new forest with gorse and heather. Some lovely villages but now I’m in Rabanal and quite frankly I haven’t seen anything yet to match this.
      The Confraternity hostel is lovely with a huge orchard garden and hospitaleros who are happy to talk about their experiences on the Camino and life as a volunteer. Picked cherries in the garden and hung my washing out and then have wandered off to find some food. Loads of vegetarian/ vegan food round here which is so strange after Astorga where there was nothing.
      We are told that there is high tea at the Albergue and a service with Gregorian chant in the church at 7. Will report back later but it sounds as if I’m going to be busy!!
      Tea in the garden (involving large teapot and lemon drizzle cake) was fab and the sung vespers also a wonderful experience. Then dinner with friends - and now in my bed having scrabbled around in the dark trying to sort my self out. 20 bed dorm with most people already sleeping at 9.30 - I was the dirty stop out this time. At least I’m by the window which is a relief tho there is already loud snoring next to me. Oh dear!
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    • Day 19

      The Emotional Camino

      May 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Past the blood and the sweat and moving into the tears. Today has started out with difficulty. I’m moving slowly like a snail, except snails are pseudopods so they don’t hobble like bipeds.
      In spite of my warmup stretches and a slow start, my legs are in full mutiny. I’ve only made a few kms and it’s getting near high noon and I have a long way to go up the hill.

      So I hobbled into a perfectly placed chapel known as “ Ecce Homo”—a very simple and holy pilgrim chapel with no crucifix at the altar, but simply a painting of two curtains parting with an emptiness between them. A mysterious void. Striking contrast to the usual ornate gold altar piece surrounding the Corpus Christi. Votive candles burned and incense had been recently offered. The font at the entrance was well maintained with cool, clean water.

      I remember this place from my first camino. I loved it then too. A gentle little man attends tenderly to this place and to the pilgrims who rest here a moment. I walked up to the altar to pray and the tears came. I was feeling like I could not go on, and a huge influx of mixed emotions flooded in suddenly. So I stayed there a long time, pulled myself together, found a magnesium capsule to take to ease my muscles, and now I feel able to a modified pace.
      Then I saw this graffiti which said “Take Your Time” and I pondered on that . Time to work through the emotions and time to work through the body kinks as well.
      I will go ever onward and ever deeper, but onward I must go.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Murias de Rechivaldo, 24718

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