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Muxía

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    • Day 44

      Day 41 - Foxy lady 🦊

      October 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      “We make a living by what we get. We make a life by what we give.” – Winston Churchill

      Day 41 - Muxia to Morpeguite - by car

      Shockingly, it was raining again this morning. This did not stop me from walking along the front and down to the small beach at the harbour. I was determined to get my feet in the water today - and I did! I hung out watching a husband and wife raking for clams (and confirmed that was what they were looking for), and just took time to enjoy the drizzle and the (wet) sand under my toes.

      Some hot chocolate and churros helped to take the chill off my bones before venturing out again.

      As I mentioned yesterday, I wanted to go back to the Sanctuary de A Barca and have another look at those rocks that the Virgin came to Muxia in as a stone boat. As I got up the hill, the sun came out and remained shining most of the rest of the morning.

      Unfortunately, I couldn’t get high enough to actually make the specific stones out. I also could not find the Fonte de Pel where the sick came to wash before going to A Barca. I did however get up to the lookout point, and it was worth every step. Absolutely amazing 360 degree views! Over the sea, A Barca and the lighthouse, the harbour and the town. Incredible. I took a bunch of photos (too many as usual) and a video or three while standing there in the wind, on the highest point of the area.

      Back to town to collect my backpack and head to the grocery store. I wanted to grab a few things to bring home that are a lot less expensive here than there - specifically saffron and sea salt flakes. Both specialty items at home that cost a bomb. I also grabbed a few things for when at The Little Fox House that I had been craving.

      I headed over to Tracy’s shop in town so I could catch a lift back to the house with her, saving me the trouble of a bus ride.

      The Little Fox House is a donativo (by donation only) post-Camino pilgrim retreat. A place to relax, reflect and process your Camino journey before moving on - either home or with other parts of your journey. Tracy Saunders - the owner - is a retired psychoanalyst and and practitioner of clinical hypnosis. She is also a writer with about 10 books under her belt, including a couple of best-sellers. In addition to running The Little Fox House, Tracy also has a shop in Muxia called Celtic, Wicca & Bling. Very cool little shop! Tonight there is only one guest (from Kentucky) but she leaves tomorrow as does Tracy for her long weekend in Malaga with her family. Hence my volunteer duties. I am in charge of the house, feeding pilgrims, cleaning house and changing beds, cat mum to Tracy’s 4 furry friends and all-round house sitter. There may be other pilgrims coming in, but at this time, none are booked (one just cancelled). It’s unusual for the rooms not to be booked, as it is a popular stop for pilgrims after their Camino or, those enroute to Muxia or Finesterre. There is a 2 night minimum and a 4 night maximum stay.

      The three of us had a lovely dinner, good wine and good company. All is ready for me to take over, tomorrow.
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    • Day 45

      Day 42 - Rest and reflection

      October 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      “I walked 5miles to school each day, uphill both ways” - said every parent ever

      Day 42 - The Little Fox House - Morpeguite

      Today Tracy and the last pilgrim (Jude) left, leaving me in charge of the house and cats. As there are no other pilgrims scheduled for my time here, this has turned in to more of a house and cat sitting gig than a volunteer one. I did have to change the bed today that Jude had been in, ready for the next pilgrims at the beginning of November - Carolyn and Jenny, actually! Have fed the cats twice and went for a walk. Otherwise, a quiet day after the ladies left. There wasn’t even the constant sound of rain as other than a sprinkle (and really high winds), there was no rain today for the first time in over a week!

      So…..for YEARS I have laughed at the quote above and thought “yeah, right. Not possible. What kind of a fool do you take me for?” Well, a big one as it turns out. What was I thinking? Of course my parents could have walked X km or miles to school, uphill both ways. I always assumed if you went uphill to school, you’d go downhill coming home. Right? Well, kind of. Today I walked 1.3km to the store and back, uphill both ways! It is possible and I am an idiot for not realizing it sooner. After leaving the house, I went to the main road and did a slow incline uphill. Slight downhill before the road levelled off a bit. The, another uphill. After this, I went downhill, then levelled off again. Store was here. So coming back, I had to go along the level bit, then uphill to get to the next level bit, then up a slight incline before going downhill again. Uphill both ways!!! Duh!

      I had grabbed some extra stuff to make a huge salad today (and some junk food for the evenings!) but didn’t end up having it. Will likely have it for lunch tomorrow, but I have way too much food (that I bought and brought) for the amount of time I am here. I was just so excited to be cooking for myself!! If I do another Camino (Keith and I are considering the Portuguese for next year), I am making sure that at least half the albergues have kitchen facilities. I miss cooking and it is usually much cheaper. I just haven’t wanted to be stuck carrying (or transporting) groceries from place to place. Looks like I may have to for whatever I have left over though!

      Rest of the afternoon and evening was spent just sitting quietly, reflecting, chatting with the girls and watching a movie on Prime. Nice quiet day.

      House is cold and damp, but I hung out in the kitchen and study where I was able to have a propane heater on (after 5pm) to help keep the chill out. Going to be an early night under the warm duvet for me!!
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    • Day 46

      Day 43 - Solitary

      October 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      ‘Alone doesn’t mean lonely. It just means alone. It just means that for now you are on your own, and that’s not a terrible thing” - Hemal Jhaveri

      Day 43 - Morpeguite

      Today was a solitary day - just the cats and I. No visitors, no tv, no music - just quiet and the sound of the blustery wind and occasional rain. It was a peaceful kind of day where I had no expectations of myself or from other people. A day to just sit and do nothing special at all.

      I did go for a walk before lunch, just in the local area. Not for long, but enough to get some fresh air into my lungs, take a few photos and gather some chestnuts for roasting later.

      Bacon and egg breakfast, large salad for lunch and burnt chicken wings for dinner. That had more to do with the oven cooking too hot and then the power going out! I managed to salvage a bit of the wing meat. I also had the chestnuts to fall back on but wasn’t really hungry anyway. I had roasted them in the oven and they were nice and sweet. Bringing most of them with me on my way back to Santiago tomorrow.

      Looking forward to the next stage of my trip - even though it will mean this part of my journey is truly over. In reality, it’s been over for a week. But, once I see Nancy, Dave and Luie come in, it really will be done. With any luck, Linda may also come in while I am still in the city. Would be great to see her too. I wish I had been able to see Jenny and Carolyn again, but it wasn’t to be. But, that’s the Camino (and life). Gives you what you need…not always what you want.
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    • Day 31

      Muxia to Finisterre (31km)

      October 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

      I have finished my last day walking. So many times during the day I thought “this is my last…” I of course know I that there is always a last day, but this year I was more keenly aware I think. Not sure why.

      I left at around 7:30 and ran into the only other two people I knew in Muxia. It was nice having company till the sun rose an hour later. When I got to approximately the halfway mark, the town of Lires, I took a detour out to the beach. Very little of this day’s walk is actually on the coast, even though we are walking from one coastal town to another. But this little detour, which swings back up to the Camino, was very nice, even though the café/ bar there was closed.

      When I got to Finisterre, I had a text from a good friend in Santiago that he, his girlfriend, and son were driving out to Finisterre for lunch. I was very surprised but happy to see them again. Then after lunch, they said they’d meet me up at the lighthouse. That struck me as very strange but off I went by myself. When I got up there, I saw that my friend had set up his camino pop-up photography studio. He has done this off and on for years. He sets up his “studio” on the Portugues and takes pilgrim pictures. I’ve seen a lot of the results and he’s very good. So let’s see what he can do with me! He took about 60 or 70 shots, so there must be at least one that’s not awful.

      I was up at the lighthouse for sunset and, truth be told, it was not a terrific sunset. Oh well, but the silver lining was that walking down back to Finisterre the moon came out. And it was a full moon and it was glorious.

      Now begins the journey home. Tomorrow I will get back to Santiago. Lots to sort out.
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    • Day 8

      Muxia to As Lires

      September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      What a beautiful morning! I was told to expect a hill at the beginning, and the first hour was pretty much up! The trail started on the road, but went into the forest after a bit, still climbing. There were a series of stone benches, I added my philosophy to one. For a while I was walking with the Canadians, and who did we find heading the other direction? More Canadians! Now I’ve met four. So we took a photo to mark the event. Besides Dennis and Carl from Ottawa, there were Cathy and her husband (name escapes me right now). And I met some more wildlife. I was also happy to see a vending machine with some tables and a flush toilet (part of the little structure, not part of the vending machine). Very welcome as there are no other services for about 16 km. Also, a kind farmer pointed me in the right direction when it was not clear.Read more

    • Day 39

      Off-track adventure

      August 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Until today, following markers on the road has been easy. The yellow arrows are frequent and placed in very visible positions. This applies to the whole Camino Francés to Santiago, to the routes from Santiago to Finisterre and Santiago to Muxía, and the route between Finisterre and Muxía, in both directions. But going from Muxía TO Santiago is not well marked at all.
      For that reason, today I missed a turn. I was following a busy road for a few hundred metres without any arrows (the arrows pointing to Muxía were still useful to confirm I was on the right track), so I checked the map in the Buen Camino app and I saw the missed turn. I could have walked back to follow the route correctly, but where I was standing there was a dirt track going left (dotted red line in the first map) and I decided to follow it, guessing that it might join the Camino. But no. The track just disappeared in the bush.
      Again, I could have walked back, but in the spirit of Ultreia, I kept moving forward,. I checked the All Trails app, where I could see the dead-end track that I took, and could also see another track that would lead me to the Camino. I bush-bashed my way to the second track, between trees, tall ferns and some thorny berry plants. The last map shows the route I walked, effectively taking a shortcut on the Camino, but one that probably contributed to my being so tired by the end.
      I have walked off-track many times in Australia, and the idea of it doesn't concern me at all. I have walked in more difficult conditions too (planned and unplanned 🤣). But I must admit, I got a little nervous when I remembered that there could be wild pigs or hunters 😬. Fortunately, I found neither 😅
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    • Day 38

      Was I the last one?

      August 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Pilgrims who come to Finisterre and Muxia do it in any order. I chose to do Finisterre first.
      On my way towards Muxía I didn't see any other pilgrims for the first 7k or so. Then, I started to see some coming in the opposite direction.
      The full walk was 28k. At the halfway point, in a village called Lires, I stopped at a cafe and I saw Jan there, who was ahead of me.
      No one passed me on the walk up to there, that's why I think I was probably the last one to leave Finisterre today 😂
      I joined Jan for brekky and we walked the rest of the way together.
      I liked the silence in the first part of the walk, and chatting in the last part was a good distraction: before I knew it, we were only 4k from Muxia.
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    • Day 7

      Os Muiños to Muxia

      September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      I got a first glimpse of Muxia, but not there yet. Once I checked in and cleaned up, I headed over to the special holy area. I climbed a hill for a good view of the town - almost easy without the backpack. There’s a zero Camino marker here as well. It appears there are two ends of the earth. Or at least of the Camino.Read more

    • Day 7

      Senande to os Muiños

      September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Armed with muchos leftovers, I continued my walk. I saw some cute garden gnomes, a farmer called me over to give me apples, a cat called me over to use me as a rubbing post. I got my first glimpse of the ocean! Then I found a bar and ordered a Coca Cola.Read more

    • Day 46

      Tag 46 von Hospital nach San Martino

      June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Heute war es wieder wunderschön.
      Das Wetter war super nicht so heiß und leicht Bewölkt.
      Der Weg war sehr ruhig meistens war ich alleine genau das liebe ich auf diesem Weg.
      Mann kommt wirklich zur Ruhe was einem bei dieser Natur auch nicht schwer fällt.
      Was man merkt ist das der Weg nicht so überlaufen ist deshalb gibt es hier auch nicht so viele Kaffees und Bars am Weg.
      Die Weg ist unglaublich heute bin ich in einer Alberge die wirklich im nichts ist.
      Das nächste Restaurant ist 1km entfernt.
      Was soll ich sagen es kommt ein Spanier mit Auto der auch in der Alberge Übernachtet und mich zum Supermarkt und anschließend noch zu einem Wasserfall und in ein Restaurant bringt.
      Wie heißt es so schön.
      Der Weg gibt dir nicht das was du willst, er gibt dir das was du brauchst. Das Stimmt.!
      Morgen geht es nach Muxia eines meiner großen Ziele.
      Ich bin echt gespannt.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Muxía, Muxia

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